Trying To ID My Monitor 7 Speakers

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e_just
e_just Posts: 7
in Vintage Speakers
Hello
I bought my first pair of vintage Polks about five months ago. They were a pair of Monitor 5s with silver dome coil tweeters. I found them at the thrift for $40 and my intention was to give them a listen then move them along to someone else since I didn’t really need another pair of speakers. After a few days with the fives and I decided that they were keepers.
Yesterday, I found a pair of Monitor 7s on Let Go for $25. I just couldn’t help myself so I bought them. After reading a bit on this forum, I think I want to recap them but I’m not sure what schematic to go by because I’m not positive what model 7 they are. I’m thinking they are 7C. Can anybody confirm this?pda1z3wo3te3.jpeg
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,794
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    7C

    You need a 12uF and 34uF capacitor per crossover and both should be 100 volts or higher. Sonicap Gen I is an excellent choice. Remove the mustard yellow polyswitch and replace with a jumper. Replace the current 2 ohm 5 watt resistor with a 2.5 ohm 10 or 12 watt Mills resistor.

    Replace the nasty SL2000 tweeters with the RD0194.

    Prepare to be blown away.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • e_just
    e_just Posts: 7
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    Thanks!
    A few quick additional questions. First, a jumper as in connect a piece of wire from one terminal to the other? Next, where does the 12uf go? I don’t see a 12uf cap on my crossover. Lastly are these caps polarized?
    Thanks!

    Eric
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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 24,559
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    No the wire jumper goes on the XO board where the little yellow disc is now(polyswitch) 2nd picture shows it next to the resistor. The 12uf is the large yellow mylar cap between the blue 34uf electrolytic and the small inductor. No none are polarized they are bipolar meaning they can go either way.

    Have fun and good luck.
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  • e_just
    e_just Posts: 7
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    Oh ok, I thought that big yellow thing was the poly switch. So the switch is under the board in the picture? It just needs to be bypassed?
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  • Nightfall
    Nightfall Posts: 10,067
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    The polyswitch is visible in both of your crossover pictures. In the second picture it's the small yellow thing on the bottom of the picture next to the vanilla block looking thing.
    afterburnt wrote: »
    They didn't speak a word of English, they were from South Carolina.

    Village Idiot of Club Polk
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  • e_just
    e_just Posts: 7
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    Correct?sgb8rvbxwwug.jpeg
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  • smglbrth
    smglbrth Posts: 1,460
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    Yup...
    Remember, when you're running from something, you're running to something...-me
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  • e_just
    e_just Posts: 7
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    Thanks! You guys have been very helpful. I’m going to source the parts and get this recap going.
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  • e_just
    e_just Posts: 7
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    F1nut wrote: »
    7C

    You need a 12uF and 34uF capacitor per crossover and both should be 100 volts or higher. Sonicap Gen I is an excellent choice. Remove the mustard yellow polyswitch and replace with a jumper. Replace the current 2 ohm 5 watt resistor with a 2.5 ohm 10 or 12 watt Mills resistor.

    Replace the nasty SL2000 tweeters with the RD0194.

    Prepare to be blown away.

    I was just reading an AK post about replacing the SL2000 with RD0194. And someone stated that the RD0194 is too big to fit the 7C without modifying the cabinet. Do you know if this is true?https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/polk-monitor-7c-help.788800/
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  • pkquat
    pkquat Posts: 742
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    The RD0-194 tweeter us a drop in replacement for the SL2000 which you have. You will not have to modify the cabinet.

    In the thread you linked, they are talking about the SL1000 tweeter. The SL1000 has a silver metal faceplate that matched the Peerless tweeter mounting used in earlier versions.
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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 24,559
    edited October 2019
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    Yes SL1000 was a smidgen different. Hole cut out was much different as to where hook up points were.

    RD-0194 100% drops right in for SL2000
    Post edited by pitdogg2 on
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  • e_just
    e_just Posts: 7
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    Awesome, thanks!
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