Newb restore Monitor 10A

Hi all Im new here. I have a pair of monitor 10As with the peerless tweeters in a pretty set of cabinets I would like to restore. Im just getting started with this project and I've been putting it off a little intimidated by the possibilities of it.
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Both the grills look like their in great shape. These were gifted to me years ago by an older guy whose wife was making him throw out his old equipment for a smaller surround sound system. She wouldn't let him keep these in the closet anymore along with a laserdisc player and an old JVC stereo receiver. One speaker worked but the other was quiet. They came with stands but those might of been lost over the years. After over a decade of sitting in the garage I dusted them off and I would like to restore them. I didn't really know much about them until recently. He seemed really interested in having me fix these even then but this was before the internet was much of a thing.

One driver is frozen.
The tweeters don't seem to be working. I bought some new fuzes and replaced but not much luck yet. I would like to know how to test the tweeters independent of everything else.
Then at least I would know its only the wiring or the caps?
The other drivers need to be repaired with some glue on the rubber surrounds.
Caps...I might like to have upgraded by someone else.
I don't really know what I'm doing but I would like to get them going again and Im patient about it. This is sort of a winter project. I am in No rush.

Theirs probably more info on the forum but I wanted to say hi and show what I might be working on this winter. If the tweeters and other drivers work It seems worth the price of restoring these. If anything I think it would be fun and a good place to start learning more about speakers.

If anyone knows of a quick way to test these tweeters that would be a big help.
I will be digging through the forum for more info when I have time.
Thanks,
Dusty


Comments

  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 42,965
    edited October 4
    Take one tweeter out, connect it to one speaker cable. Secure the connections. Turn on your system with the volume at zero. Slowly increase the volume, but keep it low. Listen for sound. You won't hear much, but if you hear something the tweeter is working.

    Repairing tears in rubber surrounds is a fools errand. You'll need to replace the drivers.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • kharp1kharp1 Posts: 3,392
    Those bring back fond memories from the 80's. Welcome and good luck with the restore project. Look forward to following your project. Post pics and notes of your results along the way.
    Main System:
    Joule-Electra LA 100 MKIII Upgraded by Rich Brkich Pre
    Butler Audio TBD 2250 Amp
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    LSA-1 Statement
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    Wireworld Equinox 7 bi-wire, Wireworld Silver Eclipse 7 IC

    Secondary Rig:
    Parasound P5, Audio Electronics by Cary Constellation
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    Backup Gear:
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  • lawdogglawdogg Posts: 348
    Rubber surrounds can be replaced. I'll send you a message.
    <3 my 3.1TLs

    I will fix your shifted magnets for free. :)
  • michaeljhsda2michaeljhsda2 Posts: 1,932
    More than likely the tweeter wires are soldered on. DO NOT unsolder them because doing so will melt the plastic near the metal tabs and the tabs fall off, ruining the tweeter (ask me how I know!) Instead cut the wires about 8 inches or so from each tweeter and remove it. You'll need to re-strip the wires and when you re-attach them, you'll appreciate the extra wire to work with.
    SDA SRS 1.2TL's
    SDA 1C's w/Clarity Cap ESA; PA, Mills, RD0194-1's
    SDA 2B TL's w/RD0198-1's
    Yaqin MC-30L integrated tube amp
    Yaqin MS-20L integrated tube amp
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 14,715
    More than likely the tweeter wires are soldered on. DO NOT unsolder them because doing so will melt the plastic near the metal tabs and the tabs fall off, ruining the tweeter (ask me how I know!) Instead cut the wires about 8 inches or so from each tweeter and remove it. You'll need to re-strip the wires and when you re-attach them, you'll appreciate the extra wire to work with.

    peerless have a metal (aluminium) Bezel , or are you referring to near the voice coil on the arms that come down to the connection point?
  • michaeljhsda2michaeljhsda2 Posts: 1,932
    On the back of the teeeter where the positive and negative wires connect to the tweeter. The tweeters don't have slip-on connections. At least on the 10A'a they don't. Later models did I believe.
    SDA SRS 1.2TL's
    SDA 1C's w/Clarity Cap ESA; PA, Mills, RD0194-1's
    SDA 2B TL's w/RD0198-1's
    Yaqin MC-30L integrated tube amp
    Yaqin MS-20L integrated tube amp
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 42,965
    Ivan is correct, the Peerless bezel is metal. There's no plastic anywhere.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • rebelsoulrebelsoul Posts: 63
    I did some about 10 years ago. urse caps mills resistors and upgraded the tweeters,
    they were amazing
  • michaeljhsda2michaeljhsda2 Posts: 1,932
    All I know is in my experience when I tried to desolder one of the wires from the back of the tweeter, the post fell off and the tweeter was ruined.
    SDA SRS 1.2TL's
    SDA 1C's w/Clarity Cap ESA; PA, Mills, RD0194-1's
    SDA 2B TL's w/RD0198-1's
    Yaqin MC-30L integrated tube amp
    Yaqin MS-20L integrated tube amp
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 42,965
    Probably brittle metal on the tab and heating it up pushed it over the edge.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • PolkiePigPolkiePig Posts: 3
    F1nut wrote: »
    Take one tweeter out, connect it to one speaker cable. Secure the connections. Turn on your system with the volume at zero. Slowly increase the volume, but keep it low. Listen for sound. You won't hear much, but if you hear something the tweeter is working.

    Repairing tears in rubber surrounds is a fools errand. You'll need to replace the drivers.

    Thanks F1nut.
    I was able to test both tweeters today and found one to no longer be working.
    That is too bad about the drivers then because they all have a small hole tear in their rubber surrounds. I'm going to need to do more reading on my options before I commit to any kind of driver replacement. There seem to be a few options and I hadn't considered replacing all of them yet. I had seen someone elsewhere on the forum used a certain kind of bicycle tube glue to seal some small holes in some drivers so had already bought some on Amazon.
  • PolkiePigPolkiePig Posts: 3
    More than likely the tweeter wires are soldered on. DO NOT unsolder them because doing so will melt the plastic near the metal tabs and the tabs fall off, ruining the tweeter (ask me how I know!) Instead cut the wires about 8 inches or so from each tweeter and remove it. You'll need to re-strip the wires and when you re-attach them, you'll appreciate the extra wire to work with.


    I noticed they were soldered so I did cut them back about 6 to 8 inches to give myself some play. The tabs looked pretty thin.
    iazzfaaqbn3g.jpg
  • michaeljhsda2michaeljhsda2 Posts: 1,932
    B)
    SDA SRS 1.2TL's
    SDA 1C's w/Clarity Cap ESA; PA, Mills, RD0194-1's
    SDA 2B TL's w/RD0198-1's
    Yaqin MC-30L integrated tube amp
    Yaqin MS-20L integrated tube amp
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