How do you deal with component heat?
Comments
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@F1nut I agree, not very smart... even worse if it’s a turntable, it sits 2” above the amp but it’s enough to raise the temperature ~5celcius degreed. One fan running slow in between helps air circulation and dissipates the extra heat.
I have to figure where to place the turntable, not sure how.
@codycatalist oh man I wish, I could live with that if I wasn’t too OCD
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They sell wall mounted turntable shelves.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
I purchased an AC Infinity T9 to put on top of my marantz 7013. Both will be on the top shelf inside a closed media cabinet (glass door) with a large vent hole on the floor of the cabinet and vent slits through the top of the cabinet. Would you recommend adding an AC Infinity S9 in that bottom vent hole (already cut to fit the S9) to draw cold air in or is the T9 working alone enough? There will be a panny 820 BluRay player and a standard cable box on the bottom shelf. Both shelves aren't full depth so air can flow in front and behind. I was also considering building a hidden mount for a furnace filter under the cabinet to control dust but may be over doing it.
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Give it space. Mr John Curl gave me advice on biasing my HCA-1000A higher than Parasound did from production based on temperature. In my cabinet with 2 inches above the amp, it has burning hot. I have it sitting alone with several inches above and it is happy. I could probably bias even higher.Stan
Main 2ch:
Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i; Technics SL-J2, Parasound PPH-100.
HT:
Marantz SR7010, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW10 (DXi104 upgrade), Marantz UD5005, Pioneer PL-530, Panasonic TC-P42S60
Other stuff:
Denon: DRA-835R, AVR-888, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, 5B, TSi100, RM7; Pioneer: CT-6R; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, CDR-615; Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii, Sony CDP-650ESD, Technics SA 5070, B&W DM601 -
space plus convection (heat rises, as they say), unless the designer/manufacturer packed too much stuff into too little volume -- cf. every HT receiver. ever.
DSC_4262 (2) by Mark Hardy, on Flickr -
I'm guessing active cooling negates the need for extra space for natural convection. My question was whether I need to actively draw in cool air into the cabinet or is an active exhaust with passive intake sufficient. Regardless, I picked up the AC Infinity S9 to act as an active intake. It can be connected/controlled by my existing T9's thermostats. I figure it's better safe than sorry. Also added air filters in front of the intake to control dust.
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My Denon receiver was getting extremely hot to the point of frying eggs, until I bought this kit:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011SY1XMK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Set the fans on the sides sucking out the air, or on top, or one of each. Figure out what works for your setup. Very versatile, and you can use on one or two pieces of equipment.
They have their own power supply (unlike other fans that can plug into USB ports, which is really bad because fans/motors are notoriously bad on their initial power spikes - you wouldn't want that type of fan running on anything you care about!).
Plug into one of the receiver's triggers, and they only run when it's on. Perfect. Quiet, and now my Denon is ice cold to the touch. -
If it ain't hot it ain't worth squat.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
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If it ain't hot it ain't worth squat.mhardy6647 wrote: »
Haha, more efficient than my house radiators.
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^^^ FWIW, the bulb (envelope) temperature of a 2A3 can run up to 200 degrees C (per the specs in the tube manuals for power output tubes -- and HV rectifiers). That said, yeah, heatsinks at 57-ish degrees C mean a lot of power being dissipated as heat
As to efficiency -- yeah, probably. As I recall, that amp only draws about 100 watts (per a "Kill-A-Watt" meter) for 2 x 3.5 watts output at "hifi" levels of HD (less than 10%).
Which really ain't bad at all
DSC_0001 by Mark Hardy, on Flickr -
If it ain't hot it ain't worth squat.mhardy6647 wrote: »
Haha, more efficient than my house radiators.
The amp would run cooler if it didn't have something sitting on it.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
LOL. Details, details.Lumin X1 file player
Sony XA-5400ES SACD
Pass XP-22 pre, X600.5 amps
Magico S5 MKII Mcast Rose speakers, SPOD spikes
Shunyata Triton v3/Typhon QR on source, Denali 2000 (2) on amps
Shunyata Sigma XLR analog ICs, Sigma speaker cables
Shunyata Sigma HC (2), Sigma Analog, Sigma Digital, Z Anaconda (3) power cables
Mapleshade Samson V.3 four shelf solid maple rack, Micropoint brass footers
Three 20 amp circuits. -
This is what I use on my B&K & Denon X4100
"....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
