Are these Polk SDA 1???

Hello fellow polkaholics. I have come across a set of Polk speakers that the owner has identified as Polk SDA 1. Any advice on what to look out for, opinions on this Model # and what would be the going price for a nice set? Thanks for your input.

yor34r1lebwe.jpeg

Comments

  • Nightfall
    Nightfall Posts: 10,042
    Make sure none of the woofers are frozen, the tweeters work, and none of the rubber surrounds are torn.
    afterburnt wrote: »
    They didn't speak a word of English, they were from South Carolina.

    Village Idiot of Club Polk
  • Nightfall wrote: »
    Make sure none of the woofers are frozen, the tweeters work, and none of the rubber surrounds are torn.

    Thanks for the advice.
  • DaveHo
    DaveHo Posts: 3,471
    edited August 2019
    Model 1C. Drivers look correct from what I can see. $300-$400 for a stock pair would be a fair price if the SDA cable is included. Maybe a little more if mint.
  • DaveHo wrote: »
    Model 1C. Drivers look correct from what I can see. $300-$400 for a stock pair would be a fair price if the SDA cable is included. Maybe a little more if mint.

    Thanks DaveHo, The interconnect cable is included and not in mint condition. Will be looking at them tomorrow and hope to get them.
  • verb
    verb Posts: 10,176
    DaveHo wrote: »
    Model 1C. Drivers look correct from what I can see. $300-$400 for a stock pair would be a fair price if the SDA cable is included. Maybe a little more if mint.

    Thanks DaveHo, The interconnect cable is included and not in mint condition. Will be looking at them tomorrow and hope to get them.

    I have a set of 1C's as part of my secondary rig. And, another set WIP completely upgraded. Love em! :)
    Basement: Polk SDA SRS 1.2tl's, Cary SLP-05 Pre with ultimate upgrade,McIntosh MCD301 CD/SACD player, Northstar Designs Excelsio DAC, Cambridge 851N streamer, McIntosh MC300 Amp, Silnote Morpheus Ref2, Series2 Digital Cables, Silnote Morpheus Ref2 Series2 XLR's, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Pangea Power Cables, MIT Shotgun S3 IC's, MIT Shotgun S1 Bi-Wire speaker cables
    Office: PC, EAR Acute CD Player, EAR 834L Pre, Northstar Designs Intenso DAC, Antique Sound Labs AV8 Monoblocks, Denon UDR-F10 Cassette, Acoustic Technologies Classic FR Speakers, SVS SB12 Plus sub, MIT AVt2 speaker cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable, Groneberg Quatro Reference IC's
    Spare Room: Dayens Ampino Integrated Amp, Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38), Analysis Plus Oval 9's, Zu Jumpers, AudioEngine B1 Streamer, Klipsch RB-61 v2, SVS PB1000 sub, Blue Jeans RCA IC's, Shunyata Hydra 8 Power Conditioner
    Living Room: Peachtree Nova Integrated, Cambridge CXN v2 Streamer, Rotel RCD-1072 CD player, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi sub
    Garage #1: Cambridge Audio 640A Integrated Amp, Project Box-E BT Streamer, Polk Tsi200 Bookies, Douglas Speaker Cables, Shunyata Power Conditioner
    Garage #2: Cambridge Audio EVO150 Integrated Amplifier, Polk L200's, Analysis Plus Silver Oval 2 Speaker Cables, IC's TBD.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,708
    The side panels are coming off, but the drivers and PR's are very clean.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • I have a set of 1C's as part of my secondary rig. And, another set WIP completely upgraded. Love em! :)[/quote]

    Thanks for the input verb
  • ultrasoudproductions
    edited August 2019
    Thanks for the input F1nut, but can you lell me what PR's are? Sorry for not knowing the lingo. LOL I am a bit concerned about the white over smear around the tweeters. Is that common?
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,708
    Passive radiator.

    The tweeters are the nasty SL2000. You'll want to replace them with the RD0194 immediately.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • skrol
    skrol Posts: 3,330
    In layman's terms, the PR is the big round flat one at the bottom. It is "passive" in that it is not driven my electrical energy in a voice coil. Instead the pressure changes in the cabinet from the driven speakers (4 mid-woofers) causes the PR to move (resonate) and produce sound at lower frequencies. For it to work properly, the cabinet needs to be sealed. Otherwise, the pressure escapes and doesn't drive the PR.

    So that is another thing to check. Make sure that the edges and corners are not cracked. You can gently press and hold the PR in and the mid-woofers should move outward and slowly return to their resting position. If they return quickly or don't move at all, then there is a problem; either the cabinet has a leak or the mid-woofers are locked.
    Stan

    Main 2ch:
    Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Benchmark DAC1, Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i; Technics SL-J2, Parasound PPH-100.

    HT:
    Marantz SR7010, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW110 , Marantz UD5005, Pioneer PL-530, Panasonic TC-P42S60

    Other stuff:
    Denon: DRA-835R, AVR-888, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, 5B, TSi100, RM7, PSW10 (DXi104 upgrade); Pioneer: CT-6R; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, CDR-615; Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii, Sony CDP-650ESD, Technics SA 5070, B&W DM601