Outlaw Audio 7000x with Polk LSiM home theater.

Hello all,

I'm in process of planning a dedicated theater build. The plan is to build a 7.2.4. I have the LSiM707 towers for the fronts, the LSiM706c center, and four LSiM702F/X. I haven't yet chosen the ceiling speakers, but will probably go with four 700-LS speakers to keep things consistent.

I need amps. Does anyone have experience with the outlaw audio 7000x? If I were to get two, I would have 14 channels, enough to bi-amp the front 3 speakers if I choose. The amp is rated at 130 watts all channels driven into 8 ohms, or 200 watts all channels driven into 4 ohms. Think I'll have enough power? The room is still under some design, but I anticipate it will be about 24' deep by 16' wide by 10' tall, or 3840 cubic feet. Each amp is just $949, which represents a good savings.
Main: Polk Rti-38
Center: Polk Csi-40
Rear: Polk Fxi-30
Sub: SVS PB10-isd
Receiver: Marantz SR-5007
Buttkicker Mini Concert x 4

Answers

  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,708
    edited August 2019
    Some might say you get what you pay for. Think about this for a second, you bought something like $8k in speakers so far and you're going to drive them with a $950.00 amp!?!

    As for bi-amping, unless you're using active crossovers you're not really bi-amping. Forget you ever had the idea.

    BTW, the Outlaw amp is made by ATI. Take a look, the interior pics look basically identical.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • mdaudioguy
    mdaudioguy Posts: 5,165
    In an Atmos configuration, you should consider that Dolby recommends direct-radiating speakers (like LSiM 703, or perhaps in-wall speakers) for surrounds, rather than the F/X speakers, which create a diffused soundfield. The F/X excel in non-Dolby configurations, especially as side surrounds. Personally, I don't care for them in the back surround position.

    Bottom line - you'll get a better effect with a room full of direct-radiating speakers when using the new object-oriented surround technology. Throwing in diffuse speakers like the F/X can make your system difficult to calibrate and could muddy the effect.
  • Some Outlaw amps are made by ATI, that is not one of them. That is an in house design and built in China. Still a solid amp however.
    Oh, Listen here mister. We got no way of understandin' this world. But we got as much sense of this bird flyin in the sky. Now there is a lot that bird don't know, but it don't change the fact that the world is happening to him all the same. What I am tryin to say is, is that the course of your life, well its changing, and you don't even see it- Forest Bondurant
  • F1nut wrote: »
    Think about this for a second, you bought something like $8k in speakers so far and you're going to drive them with a $950.00 amp!?!

    Haha. Yeah, I thought about it. But in this scenario I got the speakers for a 1/2 off sale, and I'd be running two 7 channel amps. So just like that I've gone from an 8:1 dollar ratio of speaker to amp, to 2:1.
    Main: Polk Rti-38
    Center: Polk Csi-40
    Rear: Polk Fxi-30
    Sub: SVS PB10-isd
    Receiver: Marantz SR-5007
    Buttkicker Mini Concert x 4
  • mdaudioguy wrote: »
    Bottom line - you'll get a better effect with a room full of direct-radiating speakers when using the new object-oriented surround technology. Throwing in diffuse speakers like the F/X can make your system difficult to calibrate and could muddy the effect.

    Yeah, I thought about that, but my quandary is as follows: I don't like the looks of most monopolar speakers when mounted on the wall. They stick way out and don't look like they were meant to be there. I could stand mount, but then it'll encroach on walking space around the seating areas. Also, the LSiM 703 bookshelf speakers aren't natively wall mountable. I'll have enough room to play with the positioning of the F/X speakers a bit, which have some unique design. I'd position them with the tweeter and midrange facing the primary listening area. Still direct-radiating, albeit in bipole configuration.

    I also considered in wall speakers, but I guess I just don't like them most of the time. I like to see my speakers.
    Main: Polk Rti-38
    Center: Polk Csi-40
    Rear: Polk Fxi-30
    Sub: SVS PB10-isd
    Receiver: Marantz SR-5007
    Buttkicker Mini Concert x 4
  • natronforever
    natronforever Posts: 31
    edited August 2019
    F1nut wrote: »
    As for bi-amping, unless you're using active crossovers you're not really bi-amping. Forget you ever had the idea.

    I see what you mean. Thanks. Any good uses for the extra channels? Maybe get a 7 channel and a 5 channel amp instead? There are some all-in-one 11 channel amps, but usually the front 3 speakers get a deal more power than the other 8.
    Main: Polk Rti-38
    Center: Polk Csi-40
    Rear: Polk Fxi-30
    Sub: SVS PB10-isd
    Receiver: Marantz SR-5007
    Buttkicker Mini Concert x 4
  • rooftop59
    rooftop59 Posts: 7,952
    What receiver are you using? If you get a decent upper range Denon, Marantz, or Yamaha, you really don't need to amp your atmos speakers. I would get the 7 channel amp and call it a day...
    Living Room 2.2: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Arcam SA30; Musical Fidelity A308; Sony UBP-x1000es; Squeezebox Touch with Bolder Power Supply
    Game Room 5.1.4:
    Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 900 mains, CLR-3000 center, StudioMonitor 350 surrounds, ProMonitor 800 atmos x4; Sub - Monoprice Monolith 15in THX Ultra

    Bedroom 2.1
    Cambridge Azur 551r; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,708
    F1nut wrote: »
    Think about this for a second, you bought something like $8k in speakers so far and you're going to drive them with a $950.00 amp!?!

    Haha. Yeah, I thought about it. But in this scenario I got the speakers for a 1/2 off sale, and I'd be running two 7 channel amps. So just like that I've gone from an 8:1 dollar ratio of speaker to amp, to 2:1.

    It doesn't work like that.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • F1nut wrote: »
    F1nut wrote: »
    Think about this for a second, you bought something like $8k in speakers so far and you're going to drive them with a $950.00 amp!?!

    Haha. Yeah, I thought about it. But in this scenario I got the speakers for a 1/2 off sale, and I'd be running two 7 channel amps. So just like that I've gone from an 8:1 dollar ratio of speaker to amp, to 2:1.

    It doesn't work like that.

    Haha. You mean sonically? Cause I feel like my math is solid.
    Main: Polk Rti-38
    Center: Polk Csi-40
    Rear: Polk Fxi-30
    Sub: SVS PB10-isd
    Receiver: Marantz SR-5007
    Buttkicker Mini Concert x 4
  • rooftop59 wrote: »
    What receiver are you using? If you get a decent upper range Denon, Marantz, or Yamaha, you really don't need to amp your atmos speakers. I would get the 7 channel amp and call it a day...

    I'm currently using a Marantz SR5007. It works fine, but doesn't have Atmos capability. However you pose an interesting idea. I could get an atmos Marantz for the processing and the ceiling channels, and then use the 7 channel amp for the rest. It would help consolidate things a bit.
    Main: Polk Rti-38
    Center: Polk Csi-40
    Rear: Polk Fxi-30
    Sub: SVS PB10-isd
    Receiver: Marantz SR-5007
    Buttkicker Mini Concert x 4
  • txcoastal1
    txcoastal1 Posts: 13,124
    If you go that route you could then poly up for a nice 7chnl amp like a Sunfire 7201
    2-channel: Modwright KWI-200 Integrated, Dynaudio C1-II Signatures
    Desktop rig: LSi7, Polk 110sub, Dayens Ampino amp, W4S DAC/pre, Sonos, JRiver
    Gear on standby: Melody 101 tube pre, Unison Research Simply Italy Integrated
    Gone to new homes: (Matt Polk's)Threshold Stasis SA12e monoblocks, Pass XA30.5 amp, Usher MD2 speakers, Dynaudio C4 platinum speakers, Modwright LS100 (voltz), Simaudio 780D DAC

    erat interfectorem cesar et **** dictatorem dicere a
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,708
    F1nut wrote: »
    F1nut wrote: »
    Think about this for a second, you bought something like $8k in speakers so far and you're going to drive them with a $950.00 amp!?!

    Haha. Yeah, I thought about it. But in this scenario I got the speakers for a 1/2 off sale, and I'd be running two 7 channel amps. So just like that I've gone from an 8:1 dollar ratio of speaker to amp, to 2:1.

    It doesn't work like that.

    Haha. You mean sonically? Cause I feel like my math is solid.

    Nah, your math flawed. Use the list prices.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • txcoastal1 wrote: »
    If you go that route you could then poly up for a nice 7chnl amp like a Sunfire 7201

    I agree that going this route gives more money for the 7 channel amp. Good idea.
    Main: Polk Rti-38
    Center: Polk Csi-40
    Rear: Polk Fxi-30
    Sub: SVS PB10-isd
    Receiver: Marantz SR-5007
    Buttkicker Mini Concert x 4
  • rooftop59
    rooftop59 Posts: 7,952
    edited August 2019
    F1nut wrote: »
    F1nut wrote: »
    F1nut wrote: »
    Think about this for a second, you bought something like $8k in speakers so far and you're going to drive them with a $950.00 amp!?!

    Haha. Yeah, I thought about it. But in this scenario I got the speakers for a 1/2 off sale, and I'd be running two 7 channel amps. So just like that I've gone from an 8:1 dollar ratio of speaker to amp, to 2:1.

    It doesn't work like that.

    Haha. You mean sonically? Cause I feel like my math is solid.

    Nah, your math flawed. Use the list prices.

    I don’t really see why he should. How many units did Polk actually sell at full price vs half? My guess is a very small percentage sold for within 20% of the list price. Outlaw and other internet direct companies sometimes include a “MSRP” to give the customer an idea of what big box store cost might be. If outlaw sold in Best Buy and Walmart like Polk i suspect the price (MSRP) would be at least 30% more.

    Point: MSRP is a made up number. Actual street prices are what matters. The actual street prices of the LSiM turns out the be 50% off retail...
    Living Room 2.2: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Arcam SA30; Musical Fidelity A308; Sony UBP-x1000es; Squeezebox Touch with Bolder Power Supply
    Game Room 5.1.4:
    Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 900 mains, CLR-3000 center, StudioMonitor 350 surrounds, ProMonitor 800 atmos x4; Sub - Monoprice Monolith 15in THX Ultra

    Bedroom 2.1
    Cambridge Azur 551r; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer
  • jeremymarcinko
    jeremymarcinko Posts: 3,785
    edited August 2019
    If they weren’t marked up to begin with, would they be selling like they are now at 50% off vs if they were always listed at that price? The original msrp does add a perceived value, no? Add in scarcity and then Polk finally moves the inventory.
    Post edited by jeremymarcinko on
    Oh, Listen here mister. We got no way of understandin' this world. But we got as much sense of this bird flyin in the sky. Now there is a lot that bird don't know, but it don't change the fact that the world is happening to him all the same. What I am tryin to say is, is that the course of your life, well its changing, and you don't even see it- Forest Bondurant
  • txcoastal1
    txcoastal1 Posts: 13,124
    And there will be the consideration of "cost to replace" with same or equal quality...same will be obsolete soon
    2-channel: Modwright KWI-200 Integrated, Dynaudio C1-II Signatures
    Desktop rig: LSi7, Polk 110sub, Dayens Ampino amp, W4S DAC/pre, Sonos, JRiver
    Gear on standby: Melody 101 tube pre, Unison Research Simply Italy Integrated
    Gone to new homes: (Matt Polk's)Threshold Stasis SA12e monoblocks, Pass XA30.5 amp, Usher MD2 speakers, Dynaudio C4 platinum speakers, Modwright LS100 (voltz), Simaudio 780D DAC

    erat interfectorem cesar et **** dictatorem dicere a
  • I don't really factor obsolescence into my speaker purchasing plans. Well, not for passive speakers anyway. Usually my speaker upgrades or changes are based on a sense of hankering.
    Main: Polk Rti-38
    Center: Polk Csi-40
    Rear: Polk Fxi-30
    Sub: SVS PB10-isd
    Receiver: Marantz SR-5007
    Buttkicker Mini Concert x 4
  • Grimster74
    Grimster74 Posts: 2,564
    edited August 2019
    I love my Outlaw Amps. I have a the full RTi line being driven with the 7900 and Sonance in-ceilings being driven with the 5000. My processor is the Anthem AVM60 and I've yet to catch myself wanting more volume, plenty of headroom on the amps.
    Money Talks, Mine says Goodbye Rob!!!!
  • Emlyn
    Emlyn Posts: 4,346
    edited September 2021
    I picked up an Outlaw 7000X seven channel yesterday to run in my home theater. It's running the front L900 heights and four LSiM703s as surrounds. The main and center speakers are on a Parasound A31. I was expecting a somewhat noisy amp with the potential for ground loop hum. Actually, I'm seriously impressed with this amp. The background is totally silent in all six speakers it's powering. No thump on turn on and it doesn't run hot. It weighs around 62 lbs, has good casework, and high quality switches and connections on the back. The only unusual thing is the 7000X puts out sound levels that run about 4dB higher than the Parasound. Probably voltage gain differences, but levels are easily adjusted in a processor and the amp is not noisy or hissy.

    For the price, highly recommended for the duty it's pulling. On movies the total system with two subwoofers is only pulling around 300-400 watts for normal movie watching volume.