To spike or not to spike tis the question

I have a pair of SDA-1A I am currently rebuilding. The bottoms are destroyed so I will be rebuilding and reattaching these. My question revolves around coupling and de-coupling.

These will sit on wood floors and I understand they have cups for the spikes, but would a guy have similar benefits from say, placing dynamat around the areas of the cabinet that will contact the floor? Is there serious sound quality changes in putting spikes on these heavy speakers? I have already placed dynamat on the driver and PR baskets. I added more acoustastuff behind the drivers as well as acoustic sound deadening panels behind the drivers cut into 2” wide X 2.5” deep X 12” strips.

I would be interested in everyone’s thoughts on this matter.

Comments

  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 44,697
    Dynamat has no business on the bottom of a speaker cabinet. Spike them!
    Political Correctness'.........defined

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  • Joshwest90Joshwest90 Posts: 108
    Will the spikes from partsexpress handle the weight of the SDA-1’s?
    F1nut wrote: »
    Dynamat has no business on the bottom of a speaker cabinet. Spike them!

  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 44,697
    They sell many different spikes, which ones?
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 16,567
    Which spikes from PE?
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 16,567
    Bottom set yes I've used them. Can't speak on the first set.
  • lawdogglawdogg Posts: 376
    25 cent threaded studs will hold the weight. Wait, 25 cent? Get a box of 100 for $10: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Remington-100766-Threaded-Studs-1-Shank-Qty-100-1-4-20-FREE-SHIPPING/273778102791?epid=1272471818&hash=item3fbe725207:g:YzkAAOSwGDNcmRm2. Use a nut for security if you want. I made a thread about it once and people got so excited about it, it got closed :D
    <3 my 3.1TLs

    I will fix your shifted magnets for free. :)
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 44,697
    Joshwest90 wrote: »

    The bottom spikes will work very well. One thing I do with them is apply red Loctite to the threads of the tip section because I don't like two part spikes.

    You can get whatever thread pattern you want as your speakers did not come with inserts.
    25 cent threaded studs

    Steel makes for a lousy spike. Brass is best.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • lawdogglawdogg Posts: 376
    Steel makes for a good spike.
    <3 my 3.1TLs

    I will fix your shifted magnets for free. :)
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 44,697
    I've used both, brass is much better.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 16,567
    Yes PE only carries the 6mm threaded stud. They will not work well on the riser part, chances it will split if there is any side weight on them. The two choices are remove the riser or make one like I did out of 2x4 hardwood. Mine were Oak and I drilled half way through the with a 3/4" spade bit then drilled the stud size the rest of the way and bolted from the inside through to the spike.
    So my risers were 3-3/4 tall.
  • Joshwest90Joshwest90 Posts: 108
    These risers are destroyed so I was just going to make my own.
  • lawdogglawdogg Posts: 376
    edited June 2019
    I've also used both brass and mild steel (and stainless steel), there's no difference.

    @Joshwest90 whatever blows your hair back. Brass is prettier. Brass in a dark stained walnut maybe - that'd look sharp.

    Editing with some fun technical reading - hopefully definitively answering whether or not you should spike (yes!) and @F1nut acknowledging the theory that brass could be incrementally better suited for the job because of its material properties - one Stereophile article (https://www.stereophile.com/content/listening-153) mentioning how spikes act as "mechanical diodes" to direct energy away from something (through the pointy end) but not towards something (back up the pointy end) and another, older article (https://www.stereophile.com/features/806/index.html) getting into the science with measurements. Based on this science, a speaker spike made of material that is more dense with a low damping capacity may be more efficient at conducting mechanical vibration (lattice properties to be damned) away from the speaker cabinets, thereby reducing cabinet vibration and improving sound.

    In sum, spike vs. no spike, definitely spike. Steel vs. brass v. X material, up to you!
    <3 my 3.1TLs

    I will fix your shifted magnets for free. :)
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 16,567
    Joshwest90 wrote: »
    These risers are destroyed so I was just going to make my own.

    Or just spike to the bottom. With tall spikes like these.

    https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/tiptoes/feet/feet-yung-yblc-black-chrome-tiptoe-2.15/

    Search feet or tiptoe to see more. Even come with discs
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 44,697
    I took the risers off my Studio 2BTL's and installed 2" tall spikes making the tweeter closer to ear height. Highly recommended.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • BlueFoxBlueFox Posts: 13,424
    edited June 2019
    Just from a general speaker perspective, I found that spiking the speakers focused the sound, and revealed more detail to the music. These are Magico spikes that appear to be steel, based on color.
    Bud - Silicon Valley

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  • joecoulsonjoecoulson Posts: 4,411
    F1nut wrote: »
    I've used both, brass is much better.

    You gotta lotta brass talking about steel like that...
    Auralic Vega G1/Rega TT/Denon SACD - Parasound P6 - PS Audio M700x2 - Elac Adante AS-61 - AQ Niagara 5000 - SVS SB16u
  • Joshwest90Joshwest90 Posts: 108
    F1nut wrote: »
    I took the risers off my Studio 2BTL's and installed 2" tall spikes making the tweeter closer to ear height. Highly recommended.


    I’m trying to figure out the best direction to go for the best results. Taking the risers off completely would save me about 60.00 in hardwood for the risers haha, but I like how they look with the risers. I would like the best sound quality possible out of them with the money I’ve spent so far.
  • codycatalistcodycatalist Posts: 2,665
    You can always fashion some outriggers and spike those. They be pretty.
    Just a dude doing dude-ly things

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  • SchurkeySchurkey Posts: 1,942
    edited June 2019
    The spikes on my 1Bs are Grade 8 bolts with the heads sawed off, then sharpened on a bench grinder. Screwed into a T-nut embedded in the speaker base, secured with a jam nut. Works great.

    Spikes make the most difference when the speaker is placed on thick carpet with a carpet pad underneath. 90% of the spike's usefulness comes from the pointy end piercing the carpet and pad, linking (coupling) the speaker cabinet to the hard surface of the "real" floor. If the "real" floor is concrete, so much the better.

    Spikes on wood floors offer less improvement because there's no thick, squishy carpet/pad "gasket" between cabinet and the "real" (wood) floor. Wood floors tend to be way more flexible than concrete. Wood joists are just big sloppy springs--but still better than a thick, squishy gasket. Wood as an overlay on top of concrete would still be very rigid.
    .
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  • lawdogglawdogg Posts: 376
    Yeah if you don't want to say lattice properties (etc.) be damned as I mentioned above, and you DO want to consider those material properties, it's a whole nother bag of fun.

    What do you think the % increase in sound quality is as a function of % increase in cost of the material?
    <3 my 3.1TLs

    I will fix your shifted magnets for free. :)
  • erniejadeerniejade Posts: 5,355
    +1 on what Skip said here. I was not a believer until I was in Skip's room and heard the difference first hand. Not just on the speakers, but the actual components themselves! Skip did not just put it all in all at the same time. He did piece by piece. If someone had a camera with the look on our faces just from putting it under the amp, I think it would resemble a old cartoon with the eyes popping out of their head.

    Because I got to witness this with my own ears, I am a big believer in Star Sound.


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  • VSAT88VSAT88 Posts: 755
    I put some spikes on mine. Seemed to be alright.
  • jbail2011jbail2011 Posts: 50
    I couldn't believe the difference when I spiked mine.
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  • DrahthaarDrahthaar Posts: 48
    Spike them and don't look back. It's the cheapest bang for the buck you can do for your speakers.
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