To spike or not to spike tis the question

I have a pair of SDA-1A I am currently rebuilding. The bottoms are destroyed so I will be rebuilding and reattaching these. My question revolves around coupling and de-coupling.

These will sit on wood floors and I understand they have cups for the spikes, but would a guy have similar benefits from say, placing dynamat around the areas of the cabinet that will contact the floor? Is there serious sound quality changes in putting spikes on these heavy speakers? I have already placed dynamat on the driver and PR baskets. I added more acoustastuff behind the drivers as well as acoustic sound deadening panels behind the drivers cut into 2” wide X 2.5” deep X 12” strips.

I would be interested in everyone’s thoughts on this matter.

Comments

  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 42,692
    Dynamat has no business on the bottom of a speaker cabinet. Spike them!
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • Joshwest90Joshwest90 Posts: 69
    Will the spikes from partsexpress handle the weight of the SDA-1’s?
    F1nut wrote: »
    Dynamat has no business on the bottom of a speaker cabinet. Spike them!

  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 42,692
    They sell many different spikes, which ones?
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 14,326
    Which spikes from PE?
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 14,326
    Bottom set yes I've used them. Can't speak on the first set.
  • DSkipDSkip Posts: 16,115
    You will need 1/4-20 threads. I ordered a set of 8 recently from Madison found a pair of RTi12 for $20 shipped.
  • lawdogglawdogg Posts: 348
    25 cent threaded studs will hold the weight. Wait, 25 cent? Get a box of 100 for $10: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Remington-100766-Threaded-Studs-1-Shank-Qty-100-1-4-20-FREE-SHIPPING/273778102791?epid=1272471818&hash=item3fbe725207:g:YzkAAOSwGDNcmRm2. Use a nut for security if you want. I made a thread about it once and people got so excited about it, it got closed :D
    <3 my 3.1TLs

    I will fix your shifted magnets for free. :)
  • DSkipDSkip Posts: 16,115
    If you want to do it right get some brass. Not all brass is equal but as a whole it’s the best material for what you are trying to do. They also aren’t cheap like previous options.
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 42,692
    Joshwest90 wrote: »

    The bottom spikes will work very well. One thing I do with them is apply red Loctite to the threads of the tip section because I don't like two part spikes.

    You can get whatever thread pattern you want as your speakers did not come with inserts.
    25 cent threaded studs

    Steel makes for a lousy spike. Brass is best.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • lawdogglawdogg Posts: 348
    Steel makes for a good spike.
    <3 my 3.1TLs

    I will fix your shifted magnets for free. :)
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 42,692
    I've used both, brass is much better.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 14,326
    Yes PE only carries the 6mm threaded stud. They will not work well on the riser part, chances it will split if there is any side weight on them. The two choices are remove the riser or make one like I did out of 2x4 hardwood. Mine were Oak and I drilled half way through the with a 3/4" spade bit then drilled the stud size the rest of the way and bolted from the inside through to the spike.
    So my risers were 3-3/4 tall.
  • Joshwest90Joshwest90 Posts: 69
    These risers are destroyed so I was just going to make my own.
  • lawdogglawdogg Posts: 348
    edited June 11
    I've also used both brass and mild steel (and stainless steel), there's no difference.

    @Joshwest90 whatever blows your hair back. Brass is prettier. Brass in a dark stained walnut maybe - that'd look sharp.

    Editing with some fun technical reading - hopefully definitively answering whether or not you should spike (yes!) and @F1nut acknowledging the theory that brass could be incrementally better suited for the job because of its material properties - one Stereophile article (https://www.stereophile.com/content/listening-153) mentioning how spikes act as "mechanical diodes" to direct energy away from something (through the pointy end) but not towards something (back up the pointy end) and another, older article (https://www.stereophile.com/features/806/index.html) getting into the science with measurements. Based on this science, a speaker spike made of material that is more dense with a low damping capacity may be more efficient at conducting mechanical vibration (lattice properties to be damned) away from the speaker cabinets, thereby reducing cabinet vibration and improving sound.

    In sum, spike vs. no spike, definitely spike. Steel vs. brass v. X material, up to you!
    <3 my 3.1TLs

    I will fix your shifted magnets for free. :)
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 14,326
    Joshwest90 wrote: »
    These risers are destroyed so I was just going to make my own.

    Or just spike to the bottom. With tall spikes like these.

    https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/tiptoes/feet/feet-yung-yblc-black-chrome-tiptoe-2.15/

    Search feet or tiptoe to see more. Even come with discs
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 42,692
    I took the risers off my Studio 2BTL's and installed 2" tall spikes making the tweeter closer to ear height. Highly recommended.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • BlueFoxBlueFox Posts: 12,070
    edited June 11
    Just from a general speaker perspective, I found that spiking the speakers focused the sound, and revealed more detail to the music. These are Magico spikes that appear to be steel, based on color.
    Bud - Silicon Valley

    Lumin X1
    Sony XA-5400ES SACD
    Pass XP-22 pre, X600.5 amps
    Magico S5 MKII Mcast Rose speakers, SPOD spikes

    Shunyata Triton v3/Typhon QR on preamp, Denali 2000 (2) on amps
    Shunyata Sigma XLR analog ICs, Sigma speaker cables
    Shunyata Sigma HC (2), Sigma Analog, Sigma Digital, Z Anaconda (3) power cables

    Mapleshade Samson V.3 four shelf solid maple rack, Micropoint brass footers
    Three 20 amp circuits.
  • joecoulsonjoecoulson Posts: 3,456
    F1nut wrote: »
    I've used both, brass is much better.

    You gotta lotta brass talking about steel like that...
    Auralic Vega G1/Rega TT/Denon SACD - Parasound P6 - PS Audio M700x2 - Elac Adante AF-61
  • Joshwest90Joshwest90 Posts: 69
    F1nut wrote: »
    I took the risers off my Studio 2BTL's and installed 2" tall spikes making the tweeter closer to ear height. Highly recommended.


    I’m trying to figure out the best direction to go for the best results. Taking the risers off completely would save me about 60.00 in hardwood for the risers haha, but I like how they look with the risers. I would like the best sound quality possible out of them with the money I’ve spent so far.
  • codycatalistcodycatalist Posts: 2,535
    You can always fashion some outriggers and spike those. They be pretty.
    Just a dude doing dude-ly things

    "Temptation is the manifestation of desire which equals necessity." - Mikey081057
    " I have always had a champange taste with a beer budget" - Rick88
    "Just because the thread is getting views don't mean much .. I like a good train wreck doesn't mean i want to be in one..." - pitdogg2
    "Those that don't know, don't know that they don't know." - heiney9
    "Audiophiles are the male equivalent of cat ladies." - Audiokarma Member
  • SchurkeySchurkey Posts: 1,893
    edited June 12
    The spikes on my 1Bs are Grade 8 bolts with the heads sawed off, then sharpened on a bench grinder. Screwed into a T-nut embedded in the speaker base, secured with a jam nut. Works great.

    Spikes make the most difference when the speaker is placed on thick carpet with a carpet pad underneath. 90% of the spike's usefulness comes from the pointy end piercing the carpet and pad, linking (coupling) the speaker cabinet to the hard surface of the "real" floor. If the "real" floor is concrete, so much the better.

    Spikes on wood floors offer less improvement because there's no thick, squishy carpet/pad "gasket" between cabinet and the "real" (wood) floor. Wood floors tend to be way more flexible than concrete. Wood joists are just big sloppy springs--but still better than a thick, squishy gasket. Wood as an overlay on top of concrete would still be very rigid.
  • DSkipDSkip Posts: 16,115
    lawdogg wrote: »
    I've also used both brass and mild steel (and stainless steel), there's no difference.

    @Joshwest90 whatever blows your hair back. Brass is prettier. Brass in a dark stained walnut maybe - that'd look sharp.

    Editing with some fun technical reading - hopefully definitively answering whether or not you should spike (yes!) and @F1nut acknowledging the theory that brass could be incrementally better suited for the job because of its material properties - one Stereophile article (https://www.stereophile.com/content/listening-153) mentioning how spikes act as "mechanical diodes" to direct energy away from something (through the pointy end) but not towards something (back up the pointy end) and another, older article (https://www.stereophile.com/features/806/index.html) getting into the science with measurements. Based on this science, a speaker spike made of material that is more dense with a low damping capacity may be more efficient at conducting mechanical vibration (lattice properties to be damned) away from the speaker cabinets, thereby reducing cabinet vibration and improving sound.

    In sum, spike vs. no spike, definitely spike. Steel vs. brass v. X material, up to you!

    Not all brass and steel is the same. There is also a lot that goes into a spike that people don't consider. Just like cables, you have to consider geometry and metallurgy. Star Sound uses their own blend of steel for their platforms and all spikes are brass. Both do wonderfully to transfer energy (the entire idea of coupling).
  • lawdogglawdogg Posts: 348
    Yeah if you don't want to say lattice properties (etc.) be damned as I mentioned above, and you DO want to consider those material properties, it's a whole nother bag of fun.

    What do you think the % increase in sound quality is as a function of % increase in cost of the material?
    <3 my 3.1TLs

    I will fix your shifted magnets for free. :)
  • DSkipDSkip Posts: 16,115
    lawdogg wrote: »
    Yeah if you don't want to say lattice properties (etc.) be damned as I mentioned above, and you DO want to consider those material properties, it's a whole nother bag of fun.

    What do you think the % increase in sound quality is as a function of % increase in cost of the material?

    Given the insane amount of variables, I can't provide any insight on that. I can say that I met Robert at AXPONA 2018 and after putting his products underneath my equipment (including under speakers), I walked away with about $8,000 worth of his products. I continue to hold long conversations about these very topics and his knowledge is incredible.

    Recently I was unable to set the rack up due to illness and I listened to my system without his coupling devices in place. While it still sounded good, it was uninvolving and forgettable.

    Some of his newer products will be coming out this year. Those I expect to provide superb return on investment as they will all be much more affordable - not cheap, but attainable for most people.
  • erniejadeerniejade Posts: 5,001
    +1 on what Skip said here. I was not a believer until I was in Skip's room and heard the difference first hand. Not just on the speakers, but the actual components themselves! Skip did not just put it all in all at the same time. He did piece by piece. If someone had a camera with the look on our faces just from putting it under the amp, I think it would resemble a old cartoon with the eyes popping out of their head.

    Because I got to witness this with my own ears, I am a big believer in Star Sound.


    Den: Lumin D1,Wireworld Silver Eclipse, KEF LS50 Wireless, Velodyne SPL1200, Technics 1200, Denon DL160, Jolida D9,

    Living Room:,T+A PA 1530R, Tyler Highland H2, Aries Mini, High Fidelity Reveal RCA, Grant Fidelity Tube Dac 11, W4S recovery, Wireworld Platinum Starlight, PS Audio Direct Stream JR.

    Have but haven't used in a while: LH Labs VI Dac, Cayin SCD50T

  • VSAT88VSAT88 Posts: 723
    I put some spikes on mine. Seemed to be alright.
  • jbail2011jbail2011 Posts: 49
    I couldn't believe the difference when I spiked mine.
    Polk Audio SDA 2B TL mod
    Carver M 1.0 MK2 Opt 2
    Carver CT Seven Preamp
    Bluesound Node 2i
    Abacus Aikido Custom Tube Preamp
  • DrahthaarDrahthaar Posts: 48
    Spike them and don't look back. It's the cheapest bang for the buck you can do for your speakers.
Sign In or Register to comment.

Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!