Bi-amp shootout

Newbie to this forum. I just picked up a pair of terrific RT55i speakers...with stands....for $50. Love these! I'm running a Yamaha RX-V667 with discrete amps so I wanted to try a bi-amp test. I set both speakers next to each other; one was single-amp'd, the other bi. I fed a mono source into both and switched back and forth. Verdict? NO audible difference. They sound EXACTLY the same with either connection. Clean, punchy, precise (all good because I can use those extra amps for other speakers). What results have you all had with bi-amping?

Comments

  • K_M
    K_M Posts: 1,602
    The receiver you are using while technically has several separate amps for each channel, has only one power supply to power all the channels collectively.

    True Bi-amping would employ separate amps with separate power supplies.
    With anything audio though, there is not much consensus on anything.
    You may find some to say either hook up is better or no difference.

    But fun to try stuff out, either way!
    Lsi15, Lsi9, LsiC,Rta11t,M5jr+,M4, SDA SRS 2.3TL, Rti6....Still listing stuff, a work in progress.
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  • msg
    msg Posts: 6,695
    Nice grab on the RT55i - sleeper speaker for sure.
    Welcome to the board.
    I disabled signatures.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 46,284
    Carbo3D wrote: »
    Newbie to this forum. I just picked up a pair of terrific RT55i speakers...with stands....for $50. Love these! I'm running a Yamaha RX-V667 with discrete amps so I wanted to try a bi-amp test. I set both speakers next to each other; one was single-amp'd, the other bi. I fed a mono source into both and switched back and forth. Verdict? NO audible difference. They sound EXACTLY the same with either connection. Clean, punchy, precise (all good because I can use those extra amps for other speakers). What results have you all had with bi-amping?

    That's because it wasn't bi-amping, which requires separate power amplifiers each with it's own power supply and the use of active crossovers.

    BTW, a mono source is not a good way to discern much other than tone differences, which is important, but far from all the aspects of stereophonic music reproduction.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

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  • Carbo3D
    Carbo3D Posts: 10
    Thanks for this info. I’m wrapping my head around the gear required for true discrete bi-amping vs. the “hybrid” bi-amping sold and promoted by manufacturers (in this case Yamaha). They market it as simply “connect two separately-amplified signals from our device to your bi-amp-able speakers and you’ll improve the sound.” It “sounds” good in theory, but does it result in an audible increase in quality? And my shootout, based on the simple parameters marketed by manufacturers, didn’t seem to result in any change. I guess I’m asking if anyone has had an audible improvement by simply connecting a bi-amp speaker to a stock bi-amp-capable receiver/amp?
  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,723
    F1:+1 er well more. +2.5. As Jesse said true bi-amping takes much more - take it from me.
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED
    Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro
    Samsung BDP, Dish Rcvr, Phillips CD chgr, various game consoles

    Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside* & CC outside
    BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out
    8 ga Powerline - LR woofers, inside* & out
    *soldered

    LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Mids & Tweets- 981
    CC: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6
    5 Subs: Sunfire True Sub Signature -> LFE & CC & 4 Audio Pro Evidence Subs
    Surrounds: Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3
    Power Conditioning & Distribution:
    3 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 4 Furman Miniport 20s
  • If you had a receiver that allowed zone 2 to be utilized for bi-amping, something that you’d actually have to change in the settings. that might work better. In a case like that, it’s an actual separate amplification section that would then be utilized for providing power to your second set of speaker terminals. Unfortunately, I think it’s still not going to be the same as running 2 amplifiers, as you’re still utilizing one power supply, and generally speaking most receivers tend to do the most with what they have available to them. That said, you should still notice *something*. True bi-amping would be if you took a second separate amplifier and hooked it up to your second set of posts.
  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,723
    Welcome Sorry_Access_Denied to Club Polk. Forgive my assumption based upon your post count.

    Myself and one or two others dabble in bi/tri-amping our speaker(s). You can view my work in the following links.

    https://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/174880/tri-amped-rti-a7#latest

    https://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/175612/tri-amped-csi-a6#latest

    Bi-amped, tri-amped, or quad amped - You decide:
    The ‘A6 amp* has dedicated capacitor banks for the connected channels powered by shared transformer. The ‘A7s’ amps both have a single transformer but each channel has dedicated secondary transformer windings, bridge rectifiers, and capacitor banks.
    *gonna try a 981 when I have the house to myself

    While retired these days, I have several “Honey Do” projects, one ginormous, in front of me... I have correctly bi-amped ‘A3 surrounds on my radar.

    Again welcome to Club Polk - a wealth of 2 ch and Home Theatre information.
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED
    Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro
    Samsung BDP, Dish Rcvr, Phillips CD chgr, various game consoles

    Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside* & CC outside
    BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out
    8 ga Powerline - LR woofers, inside* & out
    *soldered

    LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Mids & Tweets- 981
    CC: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6
    5 Subs: Sunfire True Sub Signature -> LFE & CC & 4 Audio Pro Evidence Subs
    Surrounds: Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3
    Power Conditioning & Distribution:
    3 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 4 Furman Miniport 20s