Polk RT1 A1 Not Driving Correctly From Denon Amp

I have 2 Denon Amps:
Denon AVR 1613
Denon AVR X1300

When I hooked up the RT1 A1 speakers to the Denon 1613 they seemed flat. So I am wondering if the amps are insufficient for these speakers. Also, does anybody know a way I could run these speakers off a separate amp while the Denon plays the surround sound.

Comments

  • tonybtonyb Posts: 30,936
    the 1613 should run them just fine, either would really. You don't need a separate amp. Your problem is most likely in the setup menu. Re-read your manual, see if all the adjustments are made correctly.
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  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 13,292
    Neither one of those receivers have pre-outs to add an amp. both are very low powered products. To run anything more than 2 speakers would DRASTICALLY reduce the power to every other channel. At 75wpc and 80wpc by the time you have 5 speakers playing you are down to about 25-30 wpc max if that.
    I can understand why the speakers sounded flat there is no power to be had with either let alone any current to push any power.
  • I am running these speakers while using Energy 5.1 speakers. Are the speakers meant to be run independently?
  • K_MK_M Posts: 1,311
    I have 2 Denon Amps:
    Denon AVR 1613
    Denon AVR X1300

    When I hooked up the RT1 A1 speakers to the Denon 1613 they seemed flat. So I am wondering if the amps are insufficient for these speakers. Also, does anybody know a way I could run these speakers off a separate amp while the Denon plays the surround sound.

    Running just one set of speakers? Are you in 2 channel mode?
    What Room EQ, and tone or Equalizer settings, and so on.
    Is this with music??
    Do you use a sub or run speakers full range?
    Define flat please?
    Lsi15, Lsi9, LsiC,Rta11t,M5jr+,M4,SDA 3.1TL, SDA SRS 2.3TL, Rti6....Still listing stuff, a work in progress.
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  • K_MK_M Posts: 1,311
    I am running these speakers while using Energy 5.1 speakers. Are the speakers meant to be run independently?

    What channels of AVR are you using?
    More details needed.
    Lsi15, Lsi9, LsiC,Rta11t,M5jr+,M4,SDA 3.1TL, SDA SRS 2.3TL, Rti6....Still listing stuff, a work in progress.
    B+W-Sold
    Epos-Now gone
    Infinity-Sold
    Advent-Now gone
    Yamaha A-S801
    Yamaha RX-V377
    Yamaha RX-A860
    Yamaha RX-A3060
    Harman Kardon Hk-350i
    Harman Kardon Hk-........
    Harman Kardon PM-665
    Harman Kardon HK-775
    Pioneer.......Stereo Receiver

  • Center, Sub-Woofer, 2 rear, and 2 Front. I substituted the two Polk speakers for the 2 Front.
  • Was also wondering why these speakers have 2 sets of speaker wire inputs...Does it matter which set is used? Upper or Lower..
  • rpf65rpf65 Posts: 2,009
    If you switched front speakers, did you re-run your calibration program?

    Any time you make changes, even moving existing speakers, it’s highly recommended that you re-run your calibration program.
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 41,717
    edited December 2018
    You have to run the calibration program any time you change anything. Did you?

    Edit: Ha, as I was typing I see rpf65 beat me to the punch. B)
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  • Was also wondering why these speakers have 2 sets of speaker wire inputs...Does it matter which set is used? Upper or Lower..

    Bi-wiring is the point of those. You should have a jumper or plate that connects the two together and you just plug your speaker wire into either input.

    Could it be that you may have only connected it to only one set without the jumper? That would cause it to sound "flat".
    Just a dude doing dude-ly things

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  • 1ixi0llvrzlp.jpg
    Just a dude doing dude-ly things

    "Temptation is the manifestation of desire which equals necessity." - Mikey081057
    " I have always had a champange taste with a beer budget" - Rick88
    "Just because the thread is getting views don't mean much .. I like a good train wreck doesn't mean i want to be in one..." - pitdogg2
    "Those that don't know, don't know that they don't know." - heiney9
    "Audiophiles are the male equivalent of cat ladies." - Audiokarma Member
  • mrlorenmrloren Posts: 1,864
    Re-calibrate all the time, move a sofa = re-calibrate

    Yeah if you don't have a jumper in there it will sound flat. Either the brass plates OR speaker wire.

    c9j9e3uinnk6.jpg
    When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.

    Family Room:
    Samsung UN60H,
    Denon AVR-X4400H, Emotiva XPA3 GEN3
    Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM, Sony DVP-NS3100ES, WD Live HUB.
    Main: Polk Signature S60
    Center: Polk CSi-A6
    Front High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT
    Surrounds: Polk S15
    Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5

    Bed Room;
    Sony KDF-E42A10,
    Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270
    Main: Polk Signature S20
    Center: Polk Signature S35
    Rear: Polk R15
    Sub: HSU STF-2

    Working Warehouse;
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  • Where did you buy this connector from?
  • mrlorenmrloren Posts: 1,864
    Made it myself. got the spades from Amazon and used 10AWG Furez speaker wire.
    When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.

    Family Room:
    Samsung UN60H,
    Denon AVR-X4400H, Emotiva XPA3 GEN3
    Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM, Sony DVP-NS3100ES, WD Live HUB.
    Main: Polk Signature S60
    Center: Polk CSi-A6
    Front High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT
    Surrounds: Polk S15
    Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5

    Bed Room;
    Sony KDF-E42A10,
    Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270
    Main: Polk Signature S20
    Center: Polk Signature S35
    Rear: Polk R15
    Sub: HSU STF-2

    Working Warehouse;
    Sony 2100ES
    4 Polk RTi4 about 15' up the wall
    Old sony 12" Sub
    Mini tower PC with 400GB of music
  • mdaudioguymdaudioguy Posts: 4,962
    Where did you buy this connector from?

    Does this question mean you're missing the brass connectors like on the picture codycatalist posted above?
  • The brass connector came with the speaker; but not this connection wire.
  • rpf65rpf65 Posts: 2,009
    The brass connector will work by itself, so long as both of the binding post nuts are tight on each set of binding posts. The wire is a inexpensive upgrade.
  • Thanks
  • mrlorenmrloren Posts: 1,864
    Removing the brass connector and adding a speaker wire jumper is the best lowest cost upgrade anyone can do.
    When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.

    Family Room:
    Samsung UN60H,
    Denon AVR-X4400H, Emotiva XPA3 GEN3
    Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM, Sony DVP-NS3100ES, WD Live HUB.
    Main: Polk Signature S60
    Center: Polk CSi-A6
    Front High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT
    Surrounds: Polk S15
    Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5

    Bed Room;
    Sony KDF-E42A10,
    Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270
    Main: Polk Signature S20
    Center: Polk Signature S35
    Rear: Polk R15
    Sub: HSU STF-2

    Working Warehouse;
    Sony 2100ES
    4 Polk RTi4 about 15' up the wall
    Old sony 12" Sub
    Mini tower PC with 400GB of music
  • Thanks.
  • mdaudioguymdaudioguy Posts: 4,962
    Let us know if that "corrects" the problem. If the brass jumpers were already in place, I doubt the improvement from replacing them with wire jumpers will take those speakers from flat to full of life, but maybe I'm wrong...

    Did you re-run the calibration?
  • Interested to know if you have had any joy with your sound?

    FWIW I always find it better to have to main cables running to the tweeters rather than woofers.
    Maybe the jumper cables are too thick to carry to the tweeters. Make sense to swap them around to me
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