AVR upgrade advice!

13

Comments

  • rooftop59
    rooftop59 Posts: 7,952
    Living Room 2.2: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Arcam SA30; Musical Fidelity A308; Sony UBP-x1000es; Squeezebox Touch with Bolder Power Supply
    Game Room 5.1.4:
    Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 900 mains, CLR-3000 center, StudioMonitor 350 surrounds, ProMonitor 800 atmos x4; Sub - Monoprice Monolith 15in THX Ultra

    Bedroom 2.1
    Cambridge Azur 551r; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer
  • How many of these subs involve angry neighbors, upset family, and police visits!!? Awesome.
  • polkerfan wrote: »
    Quick question about speaker placement. I have the speakers, as mentioned in earlier threads, for a 7.0 system (I’ll get a sub soon!) My seating position is directly aagainst the back wall of my theater room, so speakers behind me is of course not possible. I have a door on the side of the room, so side speakers aren’t really possible either. I have the two pairs of TSx 110b’s to use as rear surrounds and front heights. What is the best placement in my setup for the 110’s?

    I would put the surrounds on stands on each side of the sofa if you can, otherwise, consider in ceiling speakers.
    Oh, Listen here mister. We got no way of understandin' this world. But we got as much sense of this bird flyin in the sky. Now there is a lot that bird don't know, but it don't change the fact that the world is happening to him all the same. What I am tryin to say is, is that the course of your life, well its changing, and you don't even see it- Forest Bondurant
  • Should they be at ear heighth or a little higher angled in towards the tv or the listening position? I’m trying to find articles on placement, but can find nothing where the listening position is against the back wall. I’ll keep looking.
  • in a 7ch the surround backs can go against the back wall and the surrounds can be just a bit forward of the listening position. Otherwise a 5ch, no surround backs, the surrounds are ideally just higher than ear level to the left and right of the listening position.

    My surrounds are on the walls to each side of the sofa about 2.5ft above ear level. It may not be perfect but still has nearly the same effect. Unless it’s a dedicated room there are going to be compromises, and that’s okay.
    Oh, Listen here mister. We got no way of understandin' this world. But we got as much sense of this bird flyin in the sky. Now there is a lot that bird don't know, but it don't change the fact that the world is happening to him all the same. What I am tryin to say is, is that the course of your life, well its changing, and you don't even see it- Forest Bondurant
  • mrloren
    mrloren Posts: 2,454
    polkerfan wrote: »
    How many of these subs involve angry neighbors, upset family, and police visits!!? Awesome.

    My VTF-2 would rattle walls a bit, My VTF-3 rattles my neighbors wall a bit. They are cool as long as I turn it down by midnight. Most of the time I don't have it that loud.

    Either sub will do you fine.

    For your 7.0 or 5.0.2 system with front height. Front height close to the top of the wall above or just outside the main speakers. Surrounds a foot or two above ear level pointing in if you can. hear is how I have my rears, I have 4 in-ceiling for 5.1.4
    tgp54giqjdds.jpg
    When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.
    Family Room:LG QNED80 75", Onkyo RZ50 Emotiva XPA3 GEN3 Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM. Main: Polk LsiM 705Center: Polk LSiM 704CFront High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT Surrounds: Polk S15 Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5
    Bed Room; Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270Main: Polk Signature S20Center: Polk Signature S35Rear: Polk R15 Sub: SVS SB2000
    Working Warehouse; Yamaha A-S301, Sony DVP-NS3100ES for disc Plok TSX550T SVS PB2000 Mini tower PC with 400GB of music
  • Hey, everyone- I'm back needing some serious advice. So, I recently just picked up that YAMAHA RX-A1080 for around $1k. I now see that I can get the RX-A3080 for around $1400, down from like $1999! I have only a single theater room, no other zones, maybe kind of maxed out at a 7.1 channel system- is it worth paying the extra $400 for the flagship receiver, and will it be ANY difference over the 1080!?
  • FestYboy
    FestYboy Posts: 3,861
    That's a big jump up for only 4 bills... I'd do it if it we're me.
  • Dennis Gardner
    Dennis Gardner Posts: 4,860
    edited November 2018
    Your 1080 is fine with the speaker set you have, you don't have the room or other gear to get the most out of a top of the line receiver. I would upgrade sub and speakers for better sound before plunking more down on a receiver that you may not hear the difference on or use the features. I would much rather have a great sounding full range 5.1 system than a stuffed to the gills small room running 9.2 channels of cheaper speakers.
    HT Optoma HD25 LV on 80" DIY Screen, Anthem MRX 300 Receiver, Pioneer Elite BDP 51FD Polk CS350LS, Polk SDA1C, Polk FX300, Polk RT55, Dual EBS Adire Shiva 320watt tuned to 17hz, ICs-DIY Twisted Prs, Speaker-Raymond Cable

    2 Channel Thorens TD 318 Grado ZF1, SACD/CD Marantz 8260, Soundstream/Krell DAC1, Audio Mirror PP1, Odyssey Stratos, ADS L-1290, ICs-DIY Twisted , Speaker-Raymond Cable
  • mrloren
    mrloren Posts: 2,454
    ^^^True^^^

    A good sub will do more for your system than going to a 3080. From the 1080 to 3080 you gain a little power but a lot more whistles and bells. most of which you won't need. the 1080 can do a good 5.1.2 system.

    Grab the SVS PB12NSD while they still have them.
    When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.
    Family Room:LG QNED80 75", Onkyo RZ50 Emotiva XPA3 GEN3 Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM. Main: Polk LsiM 705Center: Polk LSiM 704CFront High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT Surrounds: Polk S15 Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5
    Bed Room; Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270Main: Polk Signature S20Center: Polk Signature S35Rear: Polk R15 Sub: SVS SB2000
    Working Warehouse; Yamaha A-S301, Sony DVP-NS3100ES for disc Plok TSX550T SVS PB2000 Mini tower PC with 400GB of music
  • rpf65
    rpf65 Posts: 2,127
    Depends on your priorities. The 30 series has a better calibration version than the 10 series, but the 10 series system is pretty good. Most can’t tell a difference. Little better power supply on the 30 series, but not an extreme upgrade. Of course there are bragging rights with any flagship AVR, but again only until the newer version comes out.

    The price difference could go to a better sub, cables, higher end tv, gaming system, or any other accessories. Flagship AVR or something else. Which is the priority.

    Then again, nothing wrong with staying with the original plan and spend no additional money. That’s also an option.
  • tonyb
    tonyb Posts: 32,902
    Pass....upgrade something else in your system.
    HT SYSTEM-
    Sony 850c 4k
    Pioneer elite vhx 21
    Sony 4k BRP
    SVS SB-2000
    Polk Sig. 20's
    Polk FX500 surrounds

    Cables-
    Acoustic zen Satori speaker cables
    Acoustic zen Matrix 2 IC's
    Wireworld eclipse 7 ic's
    Audio metallurgy ga-o digital cable

    Kitchen

    Sonos zp90
    Grant Fidelity tube dac
    B&k 1420
    lsi 9's
  • As always, I really appreciate everyones input and advice. So here's what happened- early this morning, I notcied the price on the RX-A2080 dropped about $400 on Amazon to about $90 more than what I paid for the 1080. So I am in the process of exchanging the 1080 for the 2080 at BB. I couldn't pass that up. It will allow me to possibly add another channel somewhere in the future. I just felt that with the 1080, like somone else said, I couldn't expand. At least now I have that option. And for an additional, $90 or whatever, I thought it was silly not to. Now I can still invest in better cables possibly, or towards a newer 4K, or that sub Mr. Loren wants me to buy! I think I'm looking a pretty nice set-up in the face now. You guys are great. Thanks.
  • Wanted to ask this as well- I happened to be looking at the spool of speaker wire I've used for all of my speakers- its a roll of MONSTER XL CI wire. No where does it say what awg it is anywhere on the sppol or wire- I'd guess it's 16 gauge. Now, none of my speakers are further than about 10'6" away from the listening position. I believe I was told that 16 gauge is pretty common, and that there is no need to go to a larger gauge wire unless spanning distances over 50' or so. But wouldn't larger gauge speaker wire (oxygen-free, of course) contribute to better overall sound, regardless of the close proximity of the speakers?
  • Viking64
    Viking64 Posts: 6,646
    polkerfan wrote: »
    Wanted to ask this as well- I happened to be looking at the spool of speaker wire I've used for all of my speakers- its a roll of MONSTER XL CI wire. No where does it say what awg it is anywhere on the sppol or wire- I'd guess it's 16 gauge. Now, none of my speakers are further than about 10'6" away from the listening position. I believe I was told that 16 gauge is pretty common, and that there is no need to go to a larger gauge wire unless spanning distances over 50' or so. But wouldn't larger gauge speaker wire (oxygen-free, of course) contribute to better overall sound, regardless of the close proximity of the speakers?

    Yes. 16 is relatively small. I think you will notice a lot of improvement, particularly in the low end, with thicker wire. I'll let someone else tell you exactly what, though. :)
  • I always figured a thicker wire would be beneficial. How could there be a downside to it, regardless of how close your speakers are? Any one have their suggestion on what wire to switch to?
  • mrloren
    mrloren Posts: 2,454
    I don't want you to buy anything, I do think a sub would give you the most return on the over all sound quality for your HT. Those 550T are a nice speaker with two 8" drivers. They will not be able to dig the low's out like a sub can. They will try to but it will also tax your AVR trying to do it.

    Speaker cable: Monster is not bad just way over priced. some 12AWG Furez from Doug will do you a lot better https://douglasconnection.com/Raw-Speaker-Cable_c33.htm A lot of debate on here of which is better. Monoprice 12AWG is good wire https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=2747 @ .25 cents a foot it's hard to beat.

    I had Doug's Furez in 10AWG till I picked up some Audioquest Type 4 off CL for cheap. I like the Type 4 better.
    When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.
    Family Room:LG QNED80 75", Onkyo RZ50 Emotiva XPA3 GEN3 Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM. Main: Polk LsiM 705Center: Polk LSiM 704CFront High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT Surrounds: Polk S15 Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5
    Bed Room; Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270Main: Polk Signature S20Center: Polk Signature S35Rear: Polk R15 Sub: SVS SB2000
    Working Warehouse; Yamaha A-S301, Sony DVP-NS3100ES for disc Plok TSX550T SVS PB2000 Mini tower PC with 400GB of music
  • rpf65
    rpf65 Posts: 2,127
    At the risk of starting a cable war, here goes.

    Many people believe that cables don’t matter in a system. It’s just wire used to transfer a signal to your speaker, and the only thing one has to worry about is if the wire is of sufficient gauge to safely transfer the signal. Pretty much what I think you read.

    Others will say a better quality 14 AWG cable is better than a lesser quality 12 AWG cable, because they influence the sound signature of a system. This is where the argument usually start. This is known as the cables matter camp.

    No matter which side of the argument one believes, most will say 16 AWG wire is a little small. Most on this site will also not recommend Monster products either.
  • Yea that monster stuff I think I picked up at radio shack if anyone remembers that place! Clearanced out a couple years ago. But as far as wire goes, I will begin looking into 14 and larger (and look into Doug’s wire, thank you mr Loren). Anything other than oxygen free that I should be looking for?
  • mdaudioguy
    mdaudioguy Posts: 5,165
    Blue Jeans Cable sells raw and terminated cable that would also do you well.
    http://www.bluejeanscable.com
  • Nice choice on that 2080.
    Oh, Listen here mister. We got no way of understandin' this world. But we got as much sense of this bird flyin in the sky. Now there is a lot that bird don't know, but it don't change the fact that the world is happening to him all the same. What I am tryin to say is, is that the course of your life, well its changing, and you don't even see it- Forest Bondurant
  • Thanks, Jeremy. It was still a tough choice on the 2080, seeing as how the 3080 also dropped $600 on Amazon this morning to I think $1419!! BB will match it too. I have to wait a couple weeks for the 2080, and even though it sounds like there really wouldn’t be an advantage to getting the 3080 over the 2080, I could grab it tomorrow!
  • mdaudioguy
    mdaudioguy Posts: 5,165
    The 2080 will be darn nice! I had a 1010 for a couple years and moved to a 2040. I'll run it 'til it don't run no more.
  • Still contemplating the 3080, even though it’s more than I probably need. But for that price, it will interrupt my sleep!
  • In reference to speaker wire again, I do have some in-wall wiring. Do I need this CL2 or CL3 rated wire? What are the differences between the two? And is it available in 12/14 gauge?
  • mdaudioguy
    mdaudioguy Posts: 5,165
    Generally, CL2 is considered residential and CL3 is commercial. A lot of manufacturers only offer CL3, which is good for most any purpose.
  • Like others have said, get a dang sub already! :p

    Seriously though your system will completely change and I feel you should spring for one even before cables. Just my two cents. Happy listening!
    Just a dude doing dude-ly things

    "Temptation is the manifestation of desire which equals necessity." - Mikey081057
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  • mrloren
    mrloren Posts: 2,454
    And the PB12NSD are now out of stock. SB12 are still there.
    When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.
    Family Room:LG QNED80 75", Onkyo RZ50 Emotiva XPA3 GEN3 Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM. Main: Polk LsiM 705Center: Polk LSiM 704CFront High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT Surrounds: Polk S15 Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5
    Bed Room; Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270Main: Polk Signature S20Center: Polk Signature S35Rear: Polk R15 Sub: SVS SB2000
    Working Warehouse; Yamaha A-S301, Sony DVP-NS3100ES for disc Plok TSX550T SVS PB2000 Mini tower PC with 400GB of music
  • Wanted to give everyone one last update, but I last mentioned I was going with the YAMAHA RX-A2080, exchanging the 1080 for it. Well, I stopped in to BB tonight to check on the status of that order, and they informed me it wouldn't be until probably the 20th of December before it came in. Bummer. So, there happened to be a 3080 sitting about 10 feet away, which the salesman KINDLY offered to sell it to me for the same price Amazon had on Cyber Monday- $1..4K!! YES I BOUGHT IT! Couldn't pass that deal up! Wow,cant believe I just bought that beast.
  • Clipdat
    Clipdat Posts: 12,557
    Congrats! Now you can stop that hunt, sit back and relax! GREAT CHOICE!