Trouble with my 2.3TL's.

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Comments

  • Schurkey
    Schurkey Posts: 2,100
    I don't know how a voice coil could go bad in a way that increases excursion.

    If the voice coil opens or somehow increased electrical resistance, there'd be less current flow and the driver wouldn't move as far (or at all.)

    If the voice coil shorted and reduced electrical resistance, it'd pull excess current but wouldn't work efficiently to create it's electromagnetic pull on the driver, and again the driver wouldn't move as much. Eventually the shorted driver would probably pull enough current to melt the voice coil, which would lead to an open coil and no current flow at all--and a dead driver.

    Nope, I'm going with air leaks on this issue--leaky end caps or otherwise. Another possibility is reduced mechanical resistance--failed suspension(s)/spider(s). I don't think that's as likely as an air-suspension issue.
  • verb
    verb Posts: 10,176
    If you turn it down just a touch, does the noise still occur? I have found that if pushed too hard, my 1.2TL’s will also make that noise, but it only happened at extreme volume on movie soundtracks. I added a REL subwoofer to take the stress off the Polk’s, and have no more issues.

    Interesting that you added a sub to the rig. What model REL did you get?
    Basement: Polk SDA SRS 1.2tl's, Cary SLP-05 Pre with ultimate upgrade,McIntosh MCD301 CD/SACD player, Northstar Designs Excelsio DAC, Cambridge 851N streamer, McIntosh MC300 Amp, Silnote Morpheus Ref2, Series2 Digital Cables, Silnote Morpheus Ref2 Series2 XLR's, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Pangea Power Cables, MIT Shotgun S3 IC's, MIT Shotgun S1 Bi-Wire speaker cables
    Office: PC, EAR Acute CD Player, EAR 834L Pre, Northstar Designs Intenso DAC, Antique Sound Labs AV8 Monoblocks, Denon UDR-F10 Cassette, Acoustic Technologies Classic FR Speakers, SVS SB12 Plus sub, MIT AVt2 speaker cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable, Groneberg Quatro Reference IC's
    Spare Room: Dayens Ampino Integrated Amp, Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38), Analysis Plus Oval 9's, Zu Jumpers, AudioEngine B1 Streamer, Klipsch RB-61 v2, SVS PB1000 sub, Blue Jeans RCA IC's, Shunyata Hydra 8 Power Conditioner
    Living Room: Peachtree Nova Integrated, Cambridge CXN v2 Streamer, Rotel RCD-1072 CD player, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi sub
    Garage #1: Cambridge Audio 640A Integrated Amp, Project Box-E BT Streamer, Polk Tsi200 Bookies, Douglas Speaker Cables, Shunyata Power Conditioner
    Garage #2: Cambridge Audio EVO150 Integrated Amplifier, Polk L200's, Analysis Plus Silver Oval 2 Speaker Cables, IC's TBD.
  • headrott
    headrott Posts: 5,484
    Update on my 2.3TL's.

    I installed lock washers on all end caps, and they won't be coming loose again.

    When I removed the right and left upper SDA drivers, I noticed that the left had blue as the positive, and on the right, green was positive. :o I looked up the wiring diagram and the left channel is correct. I reversed the wires on the upper right SDA driver and checked the lower right SDA driver. They are all correct now. I have the system warming up as I type. I think the SDA problem(s) are solved. I will report back after listening.

    Thanks all for your input and help. :)
    Relayer-Big-O-Poster.jpg
    Taken from a recent Audioholics reply regarding "Club Polk" and Polk speakers:
    "I'm yet to hear a Polk speaker that merits more than a sentence and 60 seconds discussion." :\
    My response is: If you need 60 seconds to respond in one sentence, you probably should't be evaluating Polk speakers.....


    "Green leaves reveal the heart spoken Khatru"- Jon Anderson

    "Have A Little Faith! And Everything You'll Face, Will Jump From Out Right On Into Place! Yeah! Take A Little Time! And Everything You'll Find, Will Move From Gloom Right On Into Shine!"- Arthur Lee
  • gmcman
    gmcman Posts: 1,740
    Good to hear. Sounds like you may have this problem licked...but if you are not 100% certain of the crossover, I feel it's pertinent to confirm polarity...you still didn't state whether or not you performed the polarity test.

    All the drivers need to push out with the 1.5V battery connected, only needs a momentary connection.
  • headrott
    headrott Posts: 5,484
    I have not done the polarity test yet. I will give a listen first, and then do it after I shut down the system and report back.

    I double and even triple checked both crossovers and they are 100% correct as far as parts placement and parts condition goes.
    Relayer-Big-O-Poster.jpg
    Taken from a recent Audioholics reply regarding "Club Polk" and Polk speakers:
    "I'm yet to hear a Polk speaker that merits more than a sentence and 60 seconds discussion." :\
    My response is: If you need 60 seconds to respond in one sentence, you probably should't be evaluating Polk speakers.....


    "Green leaves reveal the heart spoken Khatru"- Jon Anderson

    "Have A Little Faith! And Everything You'll Face, Will Jump From Out Right On Into Place! Yeah! Take A Little Time! And Everything You'll Find, Will Move From Gloom Right On Into Shine!"- Arthur Lee