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How to replace a PSW10 plate amp?

MisterPretzelMisterPretzel Posts: 5
in Speakers
A month ago, a lightning bolt hit the power lines outside my house. Thankfully, none of my major electronics were affected (as they were all on surge suppressing power strips), but my PSW10 sub was not and the plate amp blew out.

I replaced the fuse on it, but as soon as I replaced the fuse and plugged it back in, the fuse immediately blew again.

My suspicion is that the speaker itself is still good. How would I get a replacement plate amp?
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Comments

  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 15,526
    Call Polk customer service.
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  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 43,592
    If they have an amp for that sub it's likely to cost more than the sub is worth.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • MisterPretzelMisterPretzel Posts: 5
    Yeah, that's what I was worried about. I don't wanna pay $100 for a replacement plate amp. I can get a new PSW10 for $100 on Amazon...
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  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 43,592
    I suggest you aim higher as you will get a better sub.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • MisterPretzelMisterPretzel Posts: 5
    That may be true, but I don't really have a need for a sub. I had it hooked up along side what are currently my computer speakers (Polk Audio Monitor 40).

    The Polk Monitor 40 and PSW10 sub were my "starter" living room speakers, but I upgraded.

    Guess I'm just going to toss out this dead sub then. Seems like such a waste, tho...
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  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 43,592
    What are your upgraded speakers?
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • rooftop59rooftop59 Posts: 6,265
    Yes if your speakers can get into the 50s hz then the psw10 isn’t helpful at all. The one advantage for HT is that it does give a little extra slam in the 40-60hz range, and you can control the volume separate from the speakers. But it also chuffs and gives no real bass to speak of.

    If your budget is really limited but you still want a sub then the psw505 is far superior.
    Living Room 2.1: Dynaudio Contour 1.3mkii; Energy s10.2 sub; Cambridge Azur 851A; Cambridge Azur 851C; Bryston BPD-1
    Game Room HT: Denon AVR-X4200w; Definitive Technology SM350; Definitive Technology LCR2000; Definitive Technology Procinema 800; Mirage Nanasats; Sub - HSU VTF-2 MK5
    Master Bedroom
    Cambridge Azur 551r; Definitive Technology SM45; ACI Titan Subwoofer; Squeezebox Touch
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  • tonybtonyb Posts: 31,778
    Not worth the cost to repair in my opinion too. You can probably find the same sub on your local craigslist for 40-50 bucks.

    If you feel like you don't even really need a sub for that office setup, why fix or replace it at all then ?
    HT SYSTEM-
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  • MisterPretzelMisterPretzel Posts: 5
    tonyb wrote: »
    If you feel like you don't even really need a sub for that office setup, why fix or replace it at all then ?

    Because it was the sub for my Polk Monitor 40 computer speakers. I don't really need a sub for them, though. I mostly just listen to music on my computer speakers.

    It just feels stupid throwing away a perfectly good speaker cabinet and sub-woofer speaker. And I don't feel like spending 5 hours diagnosing the problem with the plate amp.

    I'd rather replace the amp with a cheap refurb. I guess I was just raised to fix broken things, rather than throw away and buy new...



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  • MisterPretzelMisterPretzel Posts: 5
    F1nut wrote: »
    What are your upgraded speakers?
    rooftop59 wrote: »
    Yes if your speakers can get into the 50s hz

    A pair of Polk S55 tower speakers. They get sufficiently deep for my listening/movie-watching purposes.

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  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 43,592
    The specs Polk publishes are deceptive as they list the overall frequency range, not the much more important -/+3dB spec. So, the overall low for the S55 is 32Hz, which I guarantee is about as loud as a mouse. I would venture to say the -3dB point is the high 30's. Most music has content into the low 30's and some a bit lower. While the S55 has more bass than your busted sub ever did you are still missing the bottom end, which really does fill out the music.

    For movies you'll want a sub that hits at least into the low 20's.

    From an independent reviewer....
    The S55s also did a good job with the tone of the viola, but I didn't feel the full heftiness of it until I brought in my SVS PC-13 Ultra sub.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • verbverb Posts: 9,013
    Replacement amp from speaker exchange. Costs more that a replacement sub, as they can be found NIB for a hundie.
    qqoj1n2ee5o6.png
    Basement: Polk SDA SRS,Cary SLP-05 Pre,Enlightened Audio Designs CD Transport,Northstar Designs Excelsio DAC,Cambridge 851N streamer,Marantz SA-14 SACD,McIntosh MC300 Amp,Silnote Morpheus Ref2 Digital Cable,Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner,Pangea Power Cables,Wireworld Oasis 8 RCA IC's,MIT Shotgun S3 IC's,MIT Shotgun S1 Bi-Wire speaker cables
    Office: PC,EAR Acute CD Player,EAR 834L Pre,Northstar Designs Intenso DAC,PASS ACA Monoblocks,Denon UDR-F10 Cassette,Acoustic Technologies Classic FR Speakers,SVS SB12 Plus sub,MIT AVt2 speaker cables,IFI Purifier2,AQ Cinnamon USB cable,Groneberg Quatro Reference IC's
    Spare Room: Antique Sound Labs Wave AV-8 Monoblocks,Tisbury Mini Passive Pre,Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38),Analysis Plus Oval 9's,Zu Jumpers,AudioEngine B1 Streamer,Klipsch RB-61 v2,SVS PB1000 sub,Blue Jeans RCA IC's
    Living Room: Peachtree Nova Integrated,Cambridge CXN v2 Streamer,Rotel RCD-1072 CD player,Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner,Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers,Polk DSW Pro 660wi sub
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  • rooftop59rooftop59 Posts: 6,265
    F1nut wrote: »
    The specs Polk publishes are deceptive as they list the overall frequency range, not the much more important -/+3dB spec. So, the overall low for the S55 is 32Hz, which I guarantee is about as loud as a mouse. I would venture to say the -3dB point is the high 30's. Most music has content into the low 30's and some a bit lower. While the S55 has more bass than your busted sub ever did you are still missing the bottom end, which really does fill out the music.

    For movies you'll want a sub that hits at least into the low 20's.

    From an independent reviewer....
    The S55s also did a good job with the tone of the viola, but I didn't feel the full heftiness of it until I brought in my SVS PC-13 Ultra sub.

    I agree, but I do think it depends on both experience and bass proclivities. Robert reina from stereophile (rip) often said that a speaker had to have solid output to about 55hz to be satisfying for most music. On the one hand I agree, as in a near field environment or a small room the trusty rt25is are pretty satisfying. BUT once you hear truly full range speakers (well down into the 20hz range) it’s really hard to go back...on the other hand, bass heads like @EndersShadow would probably never be happy with 55hz. That’s what I mean by bass proclivities...
    Living Room 2.1: Dynaudio Contour 1.3mkii; Energy s10.2 sub; Cambridge Azur 851A; Cambridge Azur 851C; Bryston BPD-1
    Game Room HT: Denon AVR-X4200w; Definitive Technology SM350; Definitive Technology LCR2000; Definitive Technology Procinema 800; Mirage Nanasats; Sub - HSU VTF-2 MK5
    Master Bedroom
    Cambridge Azur 551r; Definitive Technology SM45; ACI Titan Subwoofer; Squeezebox Touch
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