Cutting Down RTi150s

I'm currently using a pair of RTi150s as mains for my home theater. However, given that I'll have kids in and out of there, I'm limited in their placement.

I'd like to wall mount them, but, given their mass and their being so close to the wall, I feel that isn't ideal. Tethering to the wall also presents the latter issue.

What if I cut the speaker into their two "halves," mounting the upper two-way section to the wall and standing the lower woofer section away from the wall? I would have to add another panel to the affected section and play with the wiring, but it seems like it could be feasible.

Of course, I'd like to get some feedback on this before I begin loading up the Sawzall...thanks to all in advance!

—Michael
City House: B&W DM302 (mains) and CC3 (center) | Polk PSW10 sub | Arcam AVR300 receiver | Arcam DiVA DV135 CD player | Apple TV | Sony BRAVIA 40" LCD TV | Canare 4S11 speaker cable

Country House: Polk RTi150 (mains) and CS400i (center) | Cerwin Vega D-5 (surrounds) | Definitive Technology BP-2X (single, rear surround) | Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV receiver | Pioneer Elite BPD-05FD Blu-ray player | Sony VPL-VW100 projector | Silver Ticket 120" Grey Screen | LilWrecker folded horn subwoofer (coming soon...)
«1

Comments

  • txcoastal1
    txcoastal1 Posts: 13,119
    Bad idea, the cabinets are not a simple rectangle box
    Crossovers, ports, binding posts etc. All the characteristics will change

    Get a different pair of speakers for your application
    2-channel: Modwright KWI-200 Integrated, Dynaudio C1-II Signatures
    Desktop rig: LSi7, Polk 110sub, Dayens Ampino amp, W4S DAC/pre, Sonos, JRiver
    Gear on standby: Melody 101 tube pre, Unison Research Simply Italy Integrated
    Gone to new homes: (Matt Polk's)Threshold Stasis SA12e monoblocks, Pass XA30.5 amp, Usher MD2 speakers, Dynaudio C4 platinum speakers, Modwright LS100 (voltz), Simaudio 780D DAC

    erat interfectorem cesar et **** dictatorem dicere a
  • mlistens03
    mlistens03 Posts: 2,767
    I imagine it would sound bad, and it would look bad, and it wouldn't work right. Is it possible? I guess, in theory, yes. but remember the crossover is in the bottom half of the speaker so you would need to either run a bunch of cables up and down your wall, or build another crossover.
    overall, nice idea, but I don't think its gonna work.
    Micah
  • heiney9
    heiney9 Posts: 25,030
    Terrible idea, will result in terrible sound and zero value speakers. Buy the right kind of speakers for the job.
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul!
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 24,421
    edited May 2018
    Is it groundhog day or April fools day ....AGAIN ????


    The lower woofers are designed with the whole cabinet volume in the equation. Making that volume smaller will seriously negatively affect the speaker sound. BIGTIME !

    sell them and by some bookshelf speakers or better go to in-wall speakers


    Post edited by pitdogg2 on
  • rooftop59
    rooftop59 Posts: 7,937
    you dudes are harsh, the man is asking a serious question.

    But yes, unfortunately that will NOT work. You would basically need to build two (four) new cabinets with new crossovers, etc. At that point you may as well either 1. buy new (or used) speakers or 2. buy a kit from parts express and build them that way.

    You can probably get a couple hundred bucks for those speakers on craigslist. Then purchase either something like the rt55i or rt35i or the new S20 bookshelf speakers, and one or two nice little subs. Lots of subs on the used market that would give you good bang for your buck, or if you want new most of us recommend SVS or HSU for subs.
    Living Room 2.2: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Arcam SA30; Musical Fidelity A308; Sony UBP-x1000es; Squeezebox Touch with Bolder Power Supply
    Game Room 5.1.4:
    Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 900 mains, CLR-3000 center, StudioMonitor 350 surrounds, ProMonitor 800 atmos x4; Sub - Monoprice Monolith 15in THX Ultra

    Bedroom 2.1
    Cambridge Azur 551r; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer
  • BlueFox
    BlueFox Posts: 15,251
    For my next act, I will saw a speaker in half. Ooops.
    Lumin X1 file player, Westminster Labs interconnect cable
    Sony XA-5400ES SACD; Pass XP-22 pre; X600.5 amps
    Magico S5 MKII Mcast Rose speakers; SPOD spikes

    Shunyata Triton v3/Typhon QR on source, Denali 2000 (2) on amps
    Shunyata Sigma XLR analog ICs, Sigma speaker cables
    Shunyata Sigma HC (2), Sigma Analog, Sigma Digital, Z Anaconda (3) power cables

    Mapleshade Samson V.3 four shelf solid maple rack, Micropoint brass footers
    Three 20 amp circuits.
  • Clipdat
    Clipdat Posts: 12,526
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oWWXH8yLEQI
    BlueFox wrote: »
    For my next act, I will saw a speaker in half. Ooops.

  • mhardy6647
    mhardy6647 Posts: 32,874
    I hope/assume this thread is a joke... please let it be a joke.
  • tonyb
    tonyb Posts: 32,901
    rooftop59 wrote: »
    you dudes are harsh, the man is asking a serious question.

    I dunno man, serious questions in audio related topics usually don't include sawing speakers in half.....just sayin'. If a tweeter was too harsh and someone wanted to "turn it around", so that it faces in ward, should we also entertain that as serious questioning ? We've had one dude building a subwoofer out of a cardboard box, wanted to know what size and where to put the port hole. You can imagine the responses he got. :)

    Anyway, Ron answered his question on the first post and nailed it.
    HT SYSTEM-
    Sony 850c 4k
    Pioneer elite vhx 21
    Sony 4k BRP
    SVS SB-2000
    Polk Sig. 20's
    Polk FX500 surrounds

    Cables-
    Acoustic zen Satori speaker cables
    Acoustic zen Matrix 2 IC's
    Wireworld eclipse 7 ic's
    Audio metallurgy ga-o digital cable

    Kitchen

    Sonos zp90
    Grant Fidelity tube dac
    B&k 1420
    lsi 9's
  • rooftop59
    rooftop59 Posts: 7,937
    tonyb wrote: »
    rooftop59 wrote: »
    you dudes are harsh, the man is asking a serious question.

    I dunno man, serious questions in audio related topics usually don't include sawing speakers in half.....just sayin'. If a tweeter was too harsh and someone wanted to "turn it around", so that it faces in ward, should we also entertain that as serious questioning ? We've had one dude building a subwoofer out of a cardboard box, wanted to know what size and where to put the port hole. You can imagine the responses he got. :)

    Anyway, Ron answered his question on the first post and nailed it.

    dude, I didn't say it was a GOOD question. Good and serious have two different meanings last time I checked. But I am pretty sure he is actually thinking about sawing his speakers in half as a solution to his problem lol..
    Living Room 2.2: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Arcam SA30; Musical Fidelity A308; Sony UBP-x1000es; Squeezebox Touch with Bolder Power Supply
    Game Room 5.1.4:
    Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 900 mains, CLR-3000 center, StudioMonitor 350 surrounds, ProMonitor 800 atmos x4; Sub - Monoprice Monolith 15in THX Ultra

    Bedroom 2.1
    Cambridge Azur 551r; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer
  • mlistens03
    mlistens03 Posts: 2,767
    rooftop59 wrote: »
    you dudes are harsh, the man is asking a serious question.

    But yes, unfortunately that will NOT work. You would basically need to build two (four) new cabinets with new crossovers, etc. At that point you may as well either 1. buy new (or used) speakers or 2. buy a kit from parts express and build them that way.

    You can probably get a couple hundred bucks for those speakers on craigslist. Then purchase either something like the rt55i or rt35i or the new S20 bookshelf speakers, and one or two nice little subs. Lots of subs on the used market that would give you good bang for your buck, or if you want new most of us recommend SVS or HSU for subs.

    I don’t think I was being harsh...
  • Viking64
    Viking64 Posts: 6,630
    mlistens03 wrote: »
    I don’t think I was being harsh...

    No, you weren't. Being "harsh" would be to say: "Lock the kids in the root cellar and leave the speakers as they are." :p
  • mlistens03
    mlistens03 Posts: 2,767
    edited May 2018
    tonyb wrote: »
    If a tweeter was too harsh and someone wanted to "turn it around", so that it faces in ward

    I did that once, it didn’t work. :tongue:
    Not even kidding though, I wanted more bass response from my speakers and I said to myself “less treble = more bass, right?” Wrong.
    Edit for fixing quote mistake
  • tonyb
    tonyb Posts: 32,901
    mlistens03 wrote: »
    tonyb wrote: »
    If a tweeter was too harsh and someone wanted to "turn it around", so that it faces in ward

    I did that once, it didn’t work. :tongue:
    Not even kidding though, I wanted more bass response from my speakers and I said to myself “less treble = more bass, right?” Wrong.
    Edit for fixing quote mistake

    Dude, you should keep some things under your hat. :)
    HT SYSTEM-
    Sony 850c 4k
    Pioneer elite vhx 21
    Sony 4k BRP
    SVS SB-2000
    Polk Sig. 20's
    Polk FX500 surrounds

    Cables-
    Acoustic zen Satori speaker cables
    Acoustic zen Matrix 2 IC's
    Wireworld eclipse 7 ic's
    Audio metallurgy ga-o digital cable

    Kitchen

    Sonos zp90
    Grant Fidelity tube dac
    B&k 1420
    lsi 9's
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 24,421
    tonyb wrote: »
    mlistens03 wrote: »
    tonyb wrote: »
    If a tweeter was too harsh and someone wanted to "turn it around", so that it faces in ward

    I did that once, it didn’t work. :tongue:
    Not even kidding though, I wanted more bass response from my speakers and I said to myself “less treble = more bass, right?” Wrong.
    Edit for fixing quote mistake

    Dude, you should keep some things under your hat. :)

    like ??? hair? maybe....
  • mijotu
    mijotu Posts: 19
    Hey Folks,

    First allow me to apologize for disappearing. My notifications were turned off, apparently. Not cool.

    As far as some of the responses go: Yeah, I totally get it. Sometimes there’s little else to say to someone asking a seemingly absurd question. However, I feel it is a fair one, which I hope to explain below. I also feel that getting the appropriate speakers for the job is entirely fair, and this is generally my preferred approach.

    The reason I asked is because a) the two cabinets are physically sealed from one another. I am attaching a photo taken from when I recently opened it up to clean out a piece of debris. (Shot taken from the upper woofer hole toward the MT cabinet.) This is likely something I should have included in my original question. And,
    b) I have sunk a fair bit of coin into this theater to date, and I tend toward being resourceful; wiring issues, aesthetics, and resale are not a pressing issue presently.

    With regard to selling the speakers: I am perfectly aware of how to effect such transactions, should they be necessary. Also, to anyone who is not familiar with the model, and are simply assuming it would be a dumb idea, or otherwise feel this may be indicative of a federal or spiritual holiday, I would only ask that you support your assertions with hypotheticals, data, or empirical evidence (except for you, tweeter boy ;) — in lieu of that, I would ask, with all due respect, that you kindly STFU.

    To those of you remaining that might have something of additional substance to proffer, I welcome your insights with open armatures. (I’m not insinuating that that hasn’t yet happened, but I feel even the valid responses invite a more robust basis of reasoning.) Should the idea prove unfeasible, unreasonable, or unbelievable as a result of our discourse, I will by all means conclude the rational thing to do is rule it out and proceed thusly.

    —Michael

    dvzu7bq2r05a.jpeg
    City House: B&W DM302 (mains) and CC3 (center) | Polk PSW10 sub | Arcam AVR300 receiver | Arcam DiVA DV135 CD player | Apple TV | Sony BRAVIA 40" LCD TV | Canare 4S11 speaker cable

    Country House: Polk RTi150 (mains) and CS400i (center) | Cerwin Vega D-5 (surrounds) | Definitive Technology BP-2X (single, rear surround) | Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV receiver | Pioneer Elite BPD-05FD Blu-ray player | Sony VPL-VW100 projector | Silver Ticket 120" Grey Screen | LilWrecker folded horn subwoofer (coming soon...)
  • mijotu
    mijotu Posts: 19
    Hey Folks,

    First allow me to apologize for disappearing. My notifications were turned off, apparently. Not cool.

    As far as some of the responses go: Yeah, I totally get it. Sometimes there’s little else to say to someone asking a seemingly absurd question. However, I feel it is a fair one, which I hope to explain below. I also feel that getting the appropriate speakers for the job is entirely fair, and this is generally my preferred approach.

    The reason I asked is because a) the two cabinets are physically sealed from one another. I am attaching a photo taken from when I recently opened it up to clean out a piece of debris. (Shot taken from the upper woofer hole toward the MT cabinet.) This is likely something I should have included in my original question. And,
    b) I have sunk a fair bit of coin into this theater to date, and I tend toward being resourceful; wiring issues, aesthetics, and resale are not a pressing issue presently.

    With regard to selling the speakers: I am perfectly aware of how to effect such transactions, should they be necessary. Also, to anyone who is not familiar with the model, and are simply assuming it would be a dumb idea, or otherwise feel this may be indicative of a federal or spiritual holiday, I would only ask that you support your assertions with hypotheticals, data, or empirical evidence (except for you, tweeter boy ;) ) — in lieu of that, I would ask, with all due respect, that you kindly STFU.

    To those of you remaining that might have something of additional substance to proffer, I welcome your insights with open arms. (I’m not insinuating that that hasn’t yet happened, but I feel even the valid responses invite a more robust basis of reasoning.) Should the idea prove unfeasible, unreasonable, or unbelievable as a result of our discourse, I will by all means conclude the rational thing to do is rule it out and proceed thusly.

    —Michael

    dvzu7bq2r05a.jpeg
    City House: B&W DM302 (mains) and CC3 (center) | Polk PSW10 sub | Arcam AVR300 receiver | Arcam DiVA DV135 CD player | Apple TV | Sony BRAVIA 40" LCD TV | Canare 4S11 speaker cable

    Country House: Polk RTi150 (mains) and CS400i (center) | Cerwin Vega D-5 (surrounds) | Definitive Technology BP-2X (single, rear surround) | Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV receiver | Pioneer Elite BPD-05FD Blu-ray player | Sony VPL-VW100 projector | Silver Ticket 120" Grey Screen | LilWrecker folded horn subwoofer (coming soon...)
  • mlistens03
    mlistens03 Posts: 2,767
    Sorry I didn’t mean to offend you with my post about the tweeter, I was saying in response to someone else that I did actually try that and it didn’t work.
    Now, if you don’t mind, I believe I have some explanations for why it won’t work (not 100% sure they are all correct, but I know at least a few of them are, so bear with me).
    1. Even though you aren’t changing the internal volume of the speaker, the front baffle does make a difference to the way that the speaker responds in its environment, as well as the sides. The bigger the speaker is, the more area for reflection. Because of this, they make adjustments to the crossover of the speaker from the bookshelf version the make up for it.Remove that area, and there will most likely be wholes and peaks in the frequency response, and it generally won’t sound good.
    I apparently only had one explanation, or maybe I forgot the other ones whilst typing? If I think of them, I will come back.
    Micah
  • mlistens03
    mlistens03 Posts: 2,767
    tonyb wrote: »
    mlistens03 wrote: »
    tonyb wrote: »
    If a tweeter was too harsh and someone wanted to "turn it around", so that it faces in ward

    I did that once, it didn’t work. :tongue:
    Not even kidding though, I wanted more bass response from my speakers and I said to myself “less treble = more bass, right?” Wrong.
    Edit for fixing quote mistake

    Dude, you should keep some things under your hat. :)

    I know I should but I always think of that after it’s been an hour so I can’t edit my post :lol:
  • txcoastal1
    txcoastal1 Posts: 13,119
    There's still the effects of time alignment of the design

    You will get away with for HT but will never get the true stereo signal, and sound stage for music
    2-channel: Modwright KWI-200 Integrated, Dynaudio C1-II Signatures
    Desktop rig: LSi7, Polk 110sub, Dayens Ampino amp, W4S DAC/pre, Sonos, JRiver
    Gear on standby: Melody 101 tube pre, Unison Research Simply Italy Integrated
    Gone to new homes: (Matt Polk's)Threshold Stasis SA12e monoblocks, Pass XA30.5 amp, Usher MD2 speakers, Dynaudio C4 platinum speakers, Modwright LS100 (voltz), Simaudio 780D DAC

    erat interfectorem cesar et **** dictatorem dicere a
  • mijotu
    mijotu Posts: 19
    mlistens03 wrote: »
    Sorry I didn’t mean to offend you with my post about the tweeter *snip*

    No offense taken, amigo — I was just giving you a hard time :)
    mlistens03 wrote: »
    1. Even though you aren’t changing the internal volume of the speaker, the front baffle does make a difference to the way that the speaker responds in its environment, as well as the sides. The bigger the speaker is, the more area for reflection. Because of this, they make adjustments to the crossover of the speaker from the bookshelf version the make up for it.Remove that area, and there will most likely be wholes and peaks in the frequency response *snip*
    Micah

    Now, that’s somwthing I can chew on. Thank you.

    –Michael
    City House: B&W DM302 (mains) and CC3 (center) | Polk PSW10 sub | Arcam AVR300 receiver | Arcam DiVA DV135 CD player | Apple TV | Sony BRAVIA 40" LCD TV | Canare 4S11 speaker cable

    Country House: Polk RTi150 (mains) and CS400i (center) | Cerwin Vega D-5 (surrounds) | Definitive Technology BP-2X (single, rear surround) | Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV receiver | Pioneer Elite BPD-05FD Blu-ray player | Sony VPL-VW100 projector | Silver Ticket 120" Grey Screen | LilWrecker folded horn subwoofer (coming soon...)
  • mijotu
    mijotu Posts: 19
    txcoastal1 wrote: »
    There's still the effects of time alignment of the design

    You will get away with for HT but will never get the true stereo signal, and sound stage for music

    I should go bury my head in the sand, in shame.

    I think I have more than enough reasons to abort, but by all means feel free to continue to disclose the true scale of the horror of my reasoning.

    –Michael
    City House: B&W DM302 (mains) and CC3 (center) | Polk PSW10 sub | Arcam AVR300 receiver | Arcam DiVA DV135 CD player | Apple TV | Sony BRAVIA 40" LCD TV | Canare 4S11 speaker cable

    Country House: Polk RTi150 (mains) and CS400i (center) | Cerwin Vega D-5 (surrounds) | Definitive Technology BP-2X (single, rear surround) | Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV receiver | Pioneer Elite BPD-05FD Blu-ray player | Sony VPL-VW100 projector | Silver Ticket 120" Grey Screen | LilWrecker folded horn subwoofer (coming soon...)
  • mlistens03
    mlistens03 Posts: 2,767
    mijotu wrote: »
    txcoastal1 wrote: »
    There's still the effects of time alignment of the design

    You will get away with for HT but will never get the true stereo signal, and sound stage for music

    I should go bury my head in the sand, in shame.

    I think I have more than enough reasons to abort, but by all means feel free to continue to disclose the true scale of the horror of my reasoning.

    –Michael

    Naw your good dude I’ll let you off here. Others may not be so forgiving...
    I remember asking questions that didn’t make since long ago (not on the forum, like in the 2nd grade) and I would always get made fun of. And now I can totally confuse my friends by telling them anything about computers, electronics, speakers, cars etc.! It’s sooo much fun :tongue:
  • Clipdat
    Clipdat Posts: 12,526
    Do kids really climb on tower speakers? To the point where they fall over on top of them and they get crushed and seriously injured?

    I'm honestly just curious, serious question as I don't have kids.
  • txcoastal1
    txcoastal1 Posts: 13,119
    I get your concept so I'm not chastising

    But having hands on in design of speakers, coordinating drivers, crossovers and cabinets is quite the PITA

    Once you start modifying, any part of someone's else's design, the chain must be tweaked from end to end
    2-channel: Modwright KWI-200 Integrated, Dynaudio C1-II Signatures
    Desktop rig: LSi7, Polk 110sub, Dayens Ampino amp, W4S DAC/pre, Sonos, JRiver
    Gear on standby: Melody 101 tube pre, Unison Research Simply Italy Integrated
    Gone to new homes: (Matt Polk's)Threshold Stasis SA12e monoblocks, Pass XA30.5 amp, Usher MD2 speakers, Dynaudio C4 platinum speakers, Modwright LS100 (voltz), Simaudio 780D DAC

    erat interfectorem cesar et **** dictatorem dicere a
  • mlistens03
    mlistens03 Posts: 2,767
    By the way, if you’re going to be joining the forum, you’re going to want to read this thread: http://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/29186/where-to-buy-black-paint
    It’ll save you a lot of confusion when people talk about where they got the black paint for their DIY projects.
  • mijotu
    mijotu Posts: 19
    Clipdat wrote: »
    Do kids really climb on tower speakers? To the point where they fall over on top of them and they get crushed and seriously injured?

    I'm honestly just curious, serious question as I don't have kids.

    I didn’t have kids for a long time. They never made much sense to me, and the only way I was certain they weren’t some sort of practical joke was my recollection of being one myself.

    And, yes, they will take any and every opportunity to die some kind of horrible death. You know that guy who is always next to the president, looking around like he’s hearing things? That’s been me, 2/3 of every day, for the last 3.58 years.
    City House: B&W DM302 (mains) and CC3 (center) | Polk PSW10 sub | Arcam AVR300 receiver | Arcam DiVA DV135 CD player | Apple TV | Sony BRAVIA 40" LCD TV | Canare 4S11 speaker cable

    Country House: Polk RTi150 (mains) and CS400i (center) | Cerwin Vega D-5 (surrounds) | Definitive Technology BP-2X (single, rear surround) | Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV receiver | Pioneer Elite BPD-05FD Blu-ray player | Sony VPL-VW100 projector | Silver Ticket 120" Grey Screen | LilWrecker folded horn subwoofer (coming soon...)
  • rooftop59
    rooftop59 Posts: 7,937
    mijotu wrote: »
    Clipdat wrote: »
    Do kids really climb on tower speakers? To the point where they fall over on top of them and they get crushed and seriously injured?

    I'm honestly just curious, serious question as I don't have kids.

    I didn’t have kids for a long time. They never made much sense to me, and the only way I was certain they weren’t some sort of practical joke was my recollection of being one myself.

    And, yes, they will take any and every opportunity to die some kind of horrible death. You know that guy who is always next to the president, looking around like he’s hearing things? That’s been me, 2/3 of every day, for the last 3.58 years.

    Just think of them as really smart, obnoxious puppies. Treats and pops in the rear work really well for behavior modification.

    I have four, and I have never had an incident with any of my equipment (other than toys in the subwoofer port lol but that’s just too tempting). And I’m not nearly as mean as @steveinaz or @tonyb!

    Keep your speakers, beat your children, problem solved!!!
    Living Room 2.2: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Arcam SA30; Musical Fidelity A308; Sony UBP-x1000es; Squeezebox Touch with Bolder Power Supply
    Game Room 5.1.4:
    Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 900 mains, CLR-3000 center, StudioMonitor 350 surrounds, ProMonitor 800 atmos x4; Sub - Monoprice Monolith 15in THX Ultra

    Bedroom 2.1
    Cambridge Azur 551r; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer
  • mdaudioguy
    mdaudioguy Posts: 5,165
    First thought when I read the title and initial post - that's a dumb idea! Of course, I have no empirical evidence to support that thought; just my normally exceedingly good intuition. Plus, I didn't feel like thinking too hard about it either.
    So, go ahead and cut them, if you think you can make it work. Then, pics or it didn't happen.