Driver mounting with 8-32 hurricane nuts

Pre drill size ? Is it 3/16” ?
«1

Comments

  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 45,753
    You don't pre drill, you draw the h-nuts into the original holes with the screw and washer.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,725
    The hole size is 13/64" for the 8-32 size nuts. Don't drill out the holes with that size immediately. I use three drill sizes to enlarge the hole gradually. Start with 1/8", then 5/32", finishing with the 13/64". This prevents splitting the particle board, or worse, blowing out a chunk of material on the back side. Lay the cabinet on its back, on a level surface. The 1/8" starter bit will follow the original screw hole. Use low speed, and don't apply any pressure to the drill, let the weight of the drill make the hole, and check the level bubble if your drill has one. Do all the holes with the 1/8", then move up to the 5/32" and so on. Next, I use a 3/4" or 1" wood chisel to clear any burrs off the back side of the holes. You may find excess hot glue where the holes are drilled. This will need to be removed. you can use a heat gun, or hair dryer set on high to soften the hot glue, the peel it away with the wood chisel, and trim it off. To set the Hurricane Nuts, I use a small 1/2" diameter washer, and a couple of sacrificial screws. Put the washer under the head of the screw, hold the hurricane nut to the back of the hole, manually start threading the screw, and finish with the drill with a Phillips bit in it. Use low speed, and you'll know when the Hurricane Nut is seated by the sound of your drill. The washer helps prevent the screw head from sinking too far into the particle board as its pulling the Hurricane nut up into the hole. The H Nuts should be installed on the Tweeter, Woofers, and Passive Radiator. You do not need to install them on the Binding Post Cup. The Cup only receives air pressure fluctuations, and doesn't produce any mechanical stress like the other components do.See this thread for photos: http://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/149215/monitor-10-rebuild-with-tl-mod/p1
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
    Cables: Speaker: Furez 10/2 with GLS Locking Banana Plugs
    Interconnect: Furez 10/2 with SpeakONs
    ICs: Custom Furez by Douglas Connections
    Den:
    Bose 901 Series II Continentals Restored, Re-Built Equalizer with Elna Silmic IIs, Sonicaps, and Silver Mica Caps
    Carver CT-3 Pre, Carver C-500

    dhsspeakerservice.com/



  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 45,753
    Hmmm....I don't remember drilling out the original holes, but I'm old.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • ThomasD
    ThomasD Posts: 260
    Not to interrupt but was wondering if any of the drivers require a 10-32
    H nut and what length bolt, 1" or 1-1/4 ?
    Carver M4.0t, M1.0t, M200t, TX2, C1, C2, Marantz 2230, 2010, 4070, 1030, APPJ 2013, Rega Brio, Marantz Imperial 7's, Klipsch Heresy III, Quartets, KG4's, KG1's, 'The Sixes', R-12SW, Polk SDA 2a's, Monitor 7cTL's, SDA CRS's, 4a's, Zu Audio Dirty Weekends, Pro-ject Acryl TT, Cambridge 851N, 351C, Panamax 5300PM
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 45,753
    No and 1 inch is plenty.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • bassfann
    bassfann Posts: 151
    I did my 1 speaker today. Yeah,I pre drilled and all went smoothly.
  • bassfann
    bassfann Posts: 151
    I was surprised that PE didn’t have black 8-32 pan head screws,but I bought them from Amazon.
  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,725
    F1nut wrote: »
    Hmmm....I don't remember drilling out the original holes, but I'm old.

    Seasoned, Jesse, seasoned...
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
    Cables: Speaker: Furez 10/2 with GLS Locking Banana Plugs
    Interconnect: Furez 10/2 with SpeakONs
    ICs: Custom Furez by Douglas Connections
    Den:
    Bose 901 Series II Continentals Restored, Re-Built Equalizer with Elna Silmic IIs, Sonicaps, and Silver Mica Caps
    Carver CT-3 Pre, Carver C-500

    dhsspeakerservice.com/



  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,725
    bassfann wrote: »
    I was surprised that PE didn’t have black 8-32 pan head screws,but I bought them from Amazon.

    I use the TORX pan heads on the woofers and PRs, no worry about slippage. I use hex, flatheads on the tweeters, they fit flush with the recessed mounting holes. I replace the Philips on the tweeter also with hex, flatheads. Makes everything neat and tidy.
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
    Cables: Speaker: Furez 10/2 with GLS Locking Banana Plugs
    Interconnect: Furez 10/2 with SpeakONs
    ICs: Custom Furez by Douglas Connections
    Den:
    Bose 901 Series II Continentals Restored, Re-Built Equalizer with Elna Silmic IIs, Sonicaps, and Silver Mica Caps
    Carver CT-3 Pre, Carver C-500

    dhsspeakerservice.com/



  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 45,753
    I use socket cap screws because they look bada$$, not to mention they are what Polk used on the SRS, 1.2 and 1.2TL.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • bassfann
    bassfann Posts: 151
    All drivers mounted,using mortite caulk cord to seal them. I don’t know how well they’re sealed,though. I push on the PR to see how long the other drivers take to return but I haven’t timed them.
  • verb
    verb Posts: 9,809
    Basement: Polk SDA SRS, Cary SLP-05 Pre with ultimate upgrade,Enlightened Audio Designs CD Transport, Northstar Designs Excelsio DAC, Cambridge 851N streamer, Marantz SA-14 SACD, McIntosh MC300 Amp, Silnote Morpheus Ref2 Digital Cables, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Pangea Power Cables, Wireworld Oasis 8 RCA IC's, MIT Shotgun S3 IC's, MIT Shotgun S1 Bi-Wire speaker cables
    Office: PC, EAR Acute CD Player, EAR 834L Pre, Northstar Designs Intenso DAC, PASS ACA Monoblocks, Denon UDR-F10 Cassette, Acoustic Technologies Classic FR Speakers, SVS SB12 Plus sub, MIT AVt2 speaker cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable, Groneberg Quatro Reference IC's
    Spare Room: Antique Sound Labs Wave AV-8 Monoblocks, Tisbury Mini Passive Pre, Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38), Analysis Plus Oval 9's, Zu Jumpers, AudioEngine B1 Streamer, Klipsch RB-61 v2, SVS PB1000 sub, Blue Jeans RCA IC's, Shunyata Hydra 8 Power Conditioner
    Living Room: Peachtree Nova Integrated, Cambridge CXN v2 Streamer, Rotel RCD-1072 CD player, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi sub
    Garage: Cambridge Audio 640A Integrated Amp, Project Box-E BT Streamer, Polk Tsi200 Bookies, Douglas Speaker Cables, Shunyata Power Conditioner
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 45,753
    bassfann wrote: »
    All drivers mounted,using mortite caulk cord to seal them. I don’t know how well they’re sealed,though. I push on the PR to see how long the other drivers take to return but I haven’t timed them.

    Big mistake using that material.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • verb
    verb Posts: 9,809
    There seems a time in CP when Mortite was all the rage but do to the serviceability issues it's not the favored sealant anymore.

    Armacell is now preferred!
    Basement: Polk SDA SRS, Cary SLP-05 Pre with ultimate upgrade,Enlightened Audio Designs CD Transport, Northstar Designs Excelsio DAC, Cambridge 851N streamer, Marantz SA-14 SACD, McIntosh MC300 Amp, Silnote Morpheus Ref2 Digital Cables, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Pangea Power Cables, Wireworld Oasis 8 RCA IC's, MIT Shotgun S3 IC's, MIT Shotgun S1 Bi-Wire speaker cables
    Office: PC, EAR Acute CD Player, EAR 834L Pre, Northstar Designs Intenso DAC, PASS ACA Monoblocks, Denon UDR-F10 Cassette, Acoustic Technologies Classic FR Speakers, SVS SB12 Plus sub, MIT AVt2 speaker cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable, Groneberg Quatro Reference IC's
    Spare Room: Antique Sound Labs Wave AV-8 Monoblocks, Tisbury Mini Passive Pre, Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38), Analysis Plus Oval 9's, Zu Jumpers, AudioEngine B1 Streamer, Klipsch RB-61 v2, SVS PB1000 sub, Blue Jeans RCA IC's, Shunyata Hydra 8 Power Conditioner
    Living Room: Peachtree Nova Integrated, Cambridge CXN v2 Streamer, Rotel RCD-1072 CD player, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi sub
    Garage: Cambridge Audio 640A Integrated Amp, Project Box-E BT Streamer, Polk Tsi200 Bookies, Douglas Speaker Cables, Shunyata Power Conditioner
  • bassfann
    bassfann Posts: 151
    F1nut wrote: »
    bassfann wrote: »
    All drivers mounted,using mortite caulk cord to seal them. I don’t know how well they’re sealed,though. I push on the PR to see how long the other drivers take to return but I haven’t timed them.

    Big mistake using that material.
    Does it harden ?
  • verb
    verb Posts: 9,809
    bassfann wrote: »
    F1nut wrote: »
    bassfann wrote: »
    All drivers mounted,using mortite caulk cord to seal them. I don’t know how well they’re sealed,though. I push on the PR to see how long the other drivers take to return but I haven’t timed them.

    Big mistake using that material.
    Does it harden ?

    Yup. Kinda like glue. Horror stories out there of the MDF separating upon removal. :cry:
    Basement: Polk SDA SRS, Cary SLP-05 Pre with ultimate upgrade,Enlightened Audio Designs CD Transport, Northstar Designs Excelsio DAC, Cambridge 851N streamer, Marantz SA-14 SACD, McIntosh MC300 Amp, Silnote Morpheus Ref2 Digital Cables, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Pangea Power Cables, Wireworld Oasis 8 RCA IC's, MIT Shotgun S3 IC's, MIT Shotgun S1 Bi-Wire speaker cables
    Office: PC, EAR Acute CD Player, EAR 834L Pre, Northstar Designs Intenso DAC, PASS ACA Monoblocks, Denon UDR-F10 Cassette, Acoustic Technologies Classic FR Speakers, SVS SB12 Plus sub, MIT AVt2 speaker cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable, Groneberg Quatro Reference IC's
    Spare Room: Antique Sound Labs Wave AV-8 Monoblocks, Tisbury Mini Passive Pre, Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38), Analysis Plus Oval 9's, Zu Jumpers, AudioEngine B1 Streamer, Klipsch RB-61 v2, SVS PB1000 sub, Blue Jeans RCA IC's, Shunyata Hydra 8 Power Conditioner
    Living Room: Peachtree Nova Integrated, Cambridge CXN v2 Streamer, Rotel RCD-1072 CD player, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi sub
    Garage: Cambridge Audio 640A Integrated Amp, Project Box-E BT Streamer, Polk Tsi200 Bookies, Douglas Speaker Cables, Shunyata Power Conditioner
  • bassfann
    bassfann Posts: 151
    verb wrote: »
    bassfann wrote: »
    F1nut wrote: »
    bassfann wrote: »
    All drivers mounted,using mortite caulk cord to seal them. I don’t know how well they’re sealed,though. I push on the PR to see how long the other drivers take to return but I haven’t timed them.

    Big mistake using that material.
    Does it harden ?

    Yup. Kinda like glue. Horror stories out there of the MDF separating upon removal. :cry:
    Already done.
  • verb
    verb Posts: 9,809
    bassfann wrote: »
    verb wrote: »
    bassfann wrote: »
    F1nut wrote: »
    bassfann wrote: »
    All drivers mounted,using mortite caulk cord to seal them. I don’t know how well they’re sealed,though. I push on the PR to see how long the other drivers take to return but I haven’t timed them.

    Big mistake using that material.
    Does it harden ?

    Yup. Kinda like glue. Horror stories out there of the MDF separating upon removal. :cry:
    Already done.

    If you just applied the Mortite recently, not too late! Probably not rock hard yet.
    Basement: Polk SDA SRS, Cary SLP-05 Pre with ultimate upgrade,Enlightened Audio Designs CD Transport, Northstar Designs Excelsio DAC, Cambridge 851N streamer, Marantz SA-14 SACD, McIntosh MC300 Amp, Silnote Morpheus Ref2 Digital Cables, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Pangea Power Cables, Wireworld Oasis 8 RCA IC's, MIT Shotgun S3 IC's, MIT Shotgun S1 Bi-Wire speaker cables
    Office: PC, EAR Acute CD Player, EAR 834L Pre, Northstar Designs Intenso DAC, PASS ACA Monoblocks, Denon UDR-F10 Cassette, Acoustic Technologies Classic FR Speakers, SVS SB12 Plus sub, MIT AVt2 speaker cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable, Groneberg Quatro Reference IC's
    Spare Room: Antique Sound Labs Wave AV-8 Monoblocks, Tisbury Mini Passive Pre, Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38), Analysis Plus Oval 9's, Zu Jumpers, AudioEngine B1 Streamer, Klipsch RB-61 v2, SVS PB1000 sub, Blue Jeans RCA IC's, Shunyata Hydra 8 Power Conditioner
    Living Room: Peachtree Nova Integrated, Cambridge CXN v2 Streamer, Rotel RCD-1072 CD player, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi sub
    Garage: Cambridge Audio 640A Integrated Amp, Project Box-E BT Streamer, Polk Tsi200 Bookies, Douglas Speaker Cables, Shunyata Power Conditioner
  • bassfann
    bassfann Posts: 151
    bassfann wrote: »
    verb wrote: »
    bassfann wrote: »
    F1nut wrote: »
    bassfann wrote: »
    All drivers mounted,using mortite caulk cord to seal them. I don’t know how well they’re sealed,though. I push on the PR to see how long the other drivers take to return but I haven’t timed them.

    Big mistake using that material.
    Does it harden ?

    Yup. Kinda like glue. Horror stories out there of the MDF separating upon removal. :cry:
    Already done.

    Should stay sealed though,right ?
  • verb
    verb Posts: 9,809
    bassfann wrote: »
    bassfann wrote: »
    verb wrote: »
    bassfann wrote: »
    F1nut wrote: »
    bassfann wrote: »
    All drivers mounted,using mortite caulk cord to seal them. I don’t know how well they’re sealed,though. I push on the PR to see how long the other drivers take to return but I haven’t timed them.

    Big mistake using that material.
    Does it harden ?

    Yup. Kinda like glue. Horror stories out there of the MDF separating upon removal. :cry:
    Already done.

    Should stay sealed though,right ?

    Yep. It seals good. Some Polkies still use it. In the future you may run into trouble!
    Basement: Polk SDA SRS, Cary SLP-05 Pre with ultimate upgrade,Enlightened Audio Designs CD Transport, Northstar Designs Excelsio DAC, Cambridge 851N streamer, Marantz SA-14 SACD, McIntosh MC300 Amp, Silnote Morpheus Ref2 Digital Cables, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Pangea Power Cables, Wireworld Oasis 8 RCA IC's, MIT Shotgun S3 IC's, MIT Shotgun S1 Bi-Wire speaker cables
    Office: PC, EAR Acute CD Player, EAR 834L Pre, Northstar Designs Intenso DAC, PASS ACA Monoblocks, Denon UDR-F10 Cassette, Acoustic Technologies Classic FR Speakers, SVS SB12 Plus sub, MIT AVt2 speaker cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable, Groneberg Quatro Reference IC's
    Spare Room: Antique Sound Labs Wave AV-8 Monoblocks, Tisbury Mini Passive Pre, Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38), Analysis Plus Oval 9's, Zu Jumpers, AudioEngine B1 Streamer, Klipsch RB-61 v2, SVS PB1000 sub, Blue Jeans RCA IC's, Shunyata Hydra 8 Power Conditioner
    Living Room: Peachtree Nova Integrated, Cambridge CXN v2 Streamer, Rotel RCD-1072 CD player, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi sub
    Garage: Cambridge Audio 640A Integrated Amp, Project Box-E BT Streamer, Polk Tsi200 Bookies, Douglas Speaker Cables, Shunyata Power Conditioner
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 45,753
    bassfann wrote: »
    bassfann wrote: »
    verb wrote: »
    bassfann wrote: »
    F1nut wrote: »
    bassfann wrote: »
    All drivers mounted,using mortite caulk cord to seal them. I don’t know how well they’re sealed,though. I push on the PR to see how long the other drivers take to return but I haven’t timed them.

    Big mistake using that material.
    Does it harden ?

    Yup. Kinda like glue. Horror stories out there of the MDF separating upon removal. :cry:
    Already done.

    Should stay sealed though,right ?

    There's more to it than a good seal. The basket rim needs to be in solid contact with the mounting bezel. That's why the original gaskets are paper thin. A product like Mortite creates too much of a cushion. Remove it and use the speaker gasket material from Parts Express or if you have to, Armacell.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • bassfann
    bassfann Posts: 151
    verb wrote: »
    bassfann wrote: »
    verb wrote: »
    bassfann wrote: »
    F1nut wrote: »
    bassfann wrote: »
    All drivers mounted,using mortite caulk cord to seal them. I don’t know how well they’re sealed,though. I push on the PR to see how long the other drivers take to return but I haven’t timed them.

    Big mistake using that material.
    Does it harden ?

    Yup. Kinda like glue. Horror stories out there of the MDF separating upon removal. :cry:
    Already done.

    If you just applied the Mortite recently, not too late! Probably not rock hard yet.
    Installed today
  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 14,603
    My vote is get rid of it...
  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,659
    nbrowser wrote: »
    F1nut wrote: »
    Hmmm....I don't remember drilling out the original holes, but I'm old.
    I DO remember drilling out the original holes and I’m old. Further, like above I took a gradual approach too. In the process, I discovered, the final drilling w/a 1/64” larger bit makes the install MUCH easier. I used a few H nuts to secure my LFE sub* amp to its closure, too
    * B1.39

    My 2 cents.
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED
    Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro
    Samsung BDP, Dish Rcvr, Xbox, Phillips CD chgr

    Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; CC outside
    BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out
    8 ga Powerline - LR woofers, inside* & out
    *soldered

    LR: tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; M&T - 981
    CC: Rotel RB981 -> bi-amped CSi A6
    5 Audio Pro Subs: LFE & CC - B1.39; all others - Evidence
    Surrounds: Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3
    Power Conditioning & Distribution:
    3 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 4 Furman Miniport 20s
  • bassfann
    bassfann Posts: 151
    Guess I’m removing it in the morning
  • bassfann
    bassfann Posts: 151
    How long does it take to dry ?
  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,659
    Please accept CORRECTION to my post?
    F1nut wrote: »
    Hmmm....I don't remember drilling out the original holes, but I'm old.
    I DO remember drilling out the original holes and I’m old, too. Further, like another above I also took a gradual approach. In the process, I discovered, the final drilling w/a 1/64” larger bit makes the install MUCH easier. I used a few H nuts to secure my LFE sub* amp to its closure, too
    * B1.39

    My 2 cents.

    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED
    Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro
    Samsung BDP, Dish Rcvr, Xbox, Phillips CD chgr

    Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; CC outside
    BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out
    8 ga Powerline - LR woofers, inside* & out
    *soldered

    LR: tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; M&T - 981
    CC: Rotel RB981 -> bi-amped CSi A6
    5 Audio Pro Subs: LFE & CC - B1.39; all others - Evidence
    Surrounds: Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3
    Power Conditioning & Distribution:
    3 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 4 Furman Miniport 20s
  • bassfann
    bassfann Posts: 151
    verb wrote: »
    bassfann wrote: »
    verb wrote: »
    bassfann wrote: »
    F1nut wrote: »
    bassfann wrote: »
    All drivers mounted,using mortite caulk cord to seal them. I don’t know how well they’re sealed,though. I push on the PR to see how long the other drivers take to return but I haven’t timed them.

    Big mistake using that material.
    Does it harden ?

    Yup. Kinda like glue. Horror stories out there of the MDF separating upon removal. :cry:
    Already done.

    If you just applied the Mortite recently, not too late! Probably not rock hard yet.
    verb wrote: »
    bassfann wrote: »
    verb wrote: »
    bassfann wrote: »
    F1nut wrote: »
    bassfann wrote: »
    All drivers mounted,using mortite caulk cord to seal them. I don’t know how well they’re sealed,though. I push on the PR to see how long the other drivers take to return but I haven’t timed them.

    Big mistake using that material.
    Does it harden ?

    Yup. Kinda like glue. Horror stories out there of the MDF separating upon removal. :cry:
    Already done.

    If you just applied the Mortite recently, not too late! Probably not rock hard yet.
    verb wrote: »
    bassfann wrote: »
    verb wrote: »
    bassfann wrote: »
    F1nut wrote: »
    bassfann wrote: »
    All drivers mounted,using mortite caulk cord to seal them. I don’t know how well they’re sealed,though. I push on the PR to see how long the other drivers take to return but I haven’t timed them.

    Big mistake using that material.
    Does it harden ?

    Yup. Kinda like glue. Horror stories out there of the MDF separating upon removal. :cry:
    Already done.

    If you just applied the Mortite recently, not too late! Probably not rock hard yet.
    verb wrote: »
    bassfann wrote: »
    verb wrote: »
    bassfann wrote: »
    F1nut wrote: »
    bassfann wrote: »
    All drivers mounted,using mortite caulk cord to seal them. I don’t know how well they’re sealed,though. I push on the PR to see how long the other drivers take to return but I haven’t timed them.

    Big mistake using that material.
    Does it harden ?

    Yup. Kinda like glue. Horror stories out there of the MDF separating upon removal. :cry:
    Already done.

    If you just applied the Mortite recently, not too late! Probably not rock hard yet.

    Installed today
  • bassfann
    bassfann Posts: 151
    verb wrote: »
    bassfann wrote: »
    verb wrote: »
    bassfann wrote: »
    F1nut wrote: »
    bassfann wrote: »
    All drivers mounted,using mortite caulk cord to seal them. I don’t know how well they’re sealed,though. I push on the PR to see how long the other drivers take to return but I haven’t timed them.

    Big mistake using that material.
    Does it harden ?

    Yup. Kinda like glue. Horror stories out there of the MDF separating upon removal. :cry:
    Already done.

    If you just applied the Mortite recently, not too late! Probably not rock hard yet.
    verb wrote: »
    bassfann wrote: »
    verb wrote: »
    bassfann wrote: »
    F1nut wrote: »
    bassfann wrote: »
    All drivers mounted,using mortite caulk cord to seal them. I don’t know how well they’re sealed,though. I push on the PR to see how long the other drivers take to return but I haven’t timed them.

    Big mistake using that material.
    Does it harden ?

    Yup. Kinda like glue. Horror stories out there of the MDF separating upon removal. :cry:
    Already done.

    If you just applied the Mortite recently, not too late! Probably not rock hard yet.
    verb wrote: »
    bassfann wrote: »
    verb wrote: »
    bassfann wrote: »
    F1nut wrote: »
    bassfann wrote: »
    All drivers mounted,using mortite caulk cord to seal them. I don’t know how well they’re sealed,though. I push on the PR to see how long the other drivers take to return but I haven’t timed them.

    Big mistake using that material.
    Does it harden ?

    Yup. Kinda like glue. Horror stories out there of the MDF separating upon removal. :cry:
    Already done.

    If you just applied the Mortite recently, not too late! Probably not rock hard yet.
    verb wrote: »
    bassfann wrote: »
    verb wrote: »
    bassfann wrote: »
    F1nut wrote: »
    bassfann wrote: »
    All drivers mounted,using mortite caulk cord to seal them. I don’t know how well they’re sealed,though. I push on the PR to see how long the other drivers take to return but I haven’t timed them.

    Big mistake using that material.
    Does it harden ?

    Yup. Kinda like glue. Horror stories out there of the MDF separating upon removal. :cry:
    Already done.

    If you just applied the Mortite recently, not too late! Probably not rock hard yet.

    Installed today
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 45,753
    WTF?
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

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