Polk SDA-2A setup with Amp ...need one speaker

JNinja · June 2015

Hey guys, just finished putting together my "Budget" system.... Polk Audio SDA-2, Marantz SR7300 Receiver, and an Ashly FET-500 Amp...with $80, $150, & $190, respectively...for a TOTAL of $420...and I sold my used Bose for $450 (nice...)

So now, I'm realizing that a driver is blown MW6510 ....the top left as shown in last picture...it grinds...any idea's to replace?

MW

All I can find is a used one (MW6510) on ebay for $50....seems like a lot?

Any other suggestions?

Thanks in advance.

Nightfall · June 2015

Just have to say, you need to space those speakers apart. Do you have the interconnect cable?

The risk buying used if the buyer hasn't epoxied the magnets is magnet shift during shipping. I'm not sure if the 6510 is still made but call Polk, they do make a number of the vintage drivers still.

motorhead43026 · June 2015

The 6510 is as of 2014 on the list of drivers available from Polk.

JNinja · June 2015

Thanks guys. Yes, I'm using the interconnect cable. As of now, this is the space I have, but will change as we are planning to move to a larger house soon.

I have heard that the 'new' Polk 6510's are not as good(?)

westmassguy · June 2015

I've purchased 6510s off eBay, just contact the seller before hand and explain they need to be packed carefully, lot's of bubble wrap. $50.00 is a high price. You can do a saved search on eBay, and whenever a 6510 pops up you'll get an email. Polk's replacement drivers are just fine, however they don't look the same as the vintage drivers, and the rubber surround must be trimmed by the mounting holes.

PolkieMan · June 2015

The difference is the voice coil wire don't show on the new ones and the rubber as Dave mentioned but it's not hard to trim. Save the old one!!!!! there is a couple of DIY here to fix them. If you tell them Your a Club Polk member they were $48 free shipping + tax for me in Texas. You should glue the magnets on the others most use JB weld. Now they need to be at least 4 feet apart 6 is better a least 6" from back wall and 3 feet from side walls. You don't look like a Ninja

JNinja · June 2015

Thanks guys. I did end up ordering the one on ebay, but will save the one that comes out.

Is there a picture/DIY on how to glue the remaining? I realize it is 'simple', but I have never done anything like that. Thanks!

westmassguy · June 2015

You'll want to use Loctite Power Grab, Clear Acrylic Sealant. It comes in 6oz tubes, and is available online, Home Depot/Loews, and better hardware stores. Apply a bead of Loctite where the front and back plates meet the ceramic magnet. Smooth it out with your finger, which pushes the adhesive into the joint. Wipe off the excess with a damp cloth. cleanup with soap and water. It goes on white, but dries clear. The Loctite can also be used to internally re-seal the cabinet joints if needed.

boston1450 · June 2015

A little tip i learned. On each driver i did the inside first & any excess i used on the outside magnet spot where the paper tag is that way there is no waste. A tube will go a long way to. 1 tube should do it

JNinja · June 2015

Thanks guys, will do!

JNinja · June 2015

I'm going to dynomatt the brackets at the same time

westmassguy · June 2015

JNinja wrote: »

I'm going to dynomatt the brackets at the same time

Wait for the Loctite to dry before you do the Dynamat.

Polk SDA-2A setup with Amp ...need one speaker

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