Larry Rings

boston1450 wrote: »

So-sad to say but ive still got the box of Larry's Rings & i have not installed them. Ive been putting it off. Why? Maybe im chicken to take on the project. Well i did open it & uhhhhh nice-now what do i do with them LOL. Lately ive been doing lots of DIY task & its time to step up to the task. Honestly i have no idea what to do & even looking at all the peices its got me in awe. Is there a thread here that goes over the installation of these ? Thanks In Advance
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Edit. They are for the 1c's

I did it for my 1Cs, and it was doable, even for me. I'm not the handiest guy with hand tools.

Obviously, first remove and disconnect the tweeters, drivers, and PRs.

Take the templates out of the set of rings and brackets ( two brackets for each tweeter, one ring for each driver and each PR, of course).

Use the suitable template to ream out the existing holes for all the screws that attach the tweeters/drivers/PRs to the baffle. Be careful not to run-out the holes into the openings for the tweeters/drivers/PRs as you are drilling -- that is, drill the holes perpendicular to the front of the baffle. I laid the speakers on their backs to do the drilling; others prefer to leave them standing upright.

Put the appropriate brackets/rings behind the holes for the tweeters/drivers, and press the threaded inserts through the baffle from behind for each tweeter/driver. In this step, you may have to grind off or cut off an edge on some brackets or rings to accommodate the internal bracing of the speaker cabinet. I know this has to be done for the SRSs, but I do not recall whether it is necessary for the 1Cs. If it is, use a Dremel tool or bench grinder to remove as much material as is necessary for the fit. There is a thread that describes this step in detail.)

The brackets fit through the driver openings. The driver rings fit through the PR opening.

To install each PR ring behind the baffle, you will need to gently and slightly bend the ring at marked points on each side to get it inside the cabinet. Then, press the threaded inserts in each ring through the drilled holes in the baffle.

Reconnect the tweeters and drivers and reinstall them. Do the PRs last.

Hope this helps.

While you have the drivers & PR out I would go ahead and put the dynamate xtreme on them.

here a pic of Dave's speakers that he added it to mine didnt look so neat so I showed you his

the flat ones are the templates for drilling the new mounting holes.

Get some Armacell from Home Depot to replace the stock gaskets.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Armacell-2-in-x-30-ft-R-1-Foam-Insulation-Tape-TAP18230/100539553?N=5yc1vZ40k

Randy,besides Dynamatting drilling and installing the rings was so easy and theraputic at the same time. Yes it's a bit messy so have a vacuum handy and either cover your x-overs or pull them out. I have recovered the entire rears of the passives w/ more Dynamat Extreme.

boston1450 wrote: »

Did you just use your old gaskets for a pattern to make new ones ?

My gaskets for the tweeters were still in good shape; so, I reused them on both my 1Cs and SRSs.

The gaskets for the drivers and PRs were destroyed by my removing the drivers and PRs. I replaced them with the Armacell cited above.

You don't need a template to make new gaskets. The Armacell comes in 2-inches-wide strips that are 30 feet long. I cut lengths of the Armacell long enough to go around the drivers and PRs (with a little extra for insurance. Then I cut the 2-inches-wide Armacell into strips that were 1/2 inch wide,

Then, I laid the armacell on the flange on the back of each driver/PR, removing the backing paper as I moved around the driver/PR. The back of the Armacell has an adhesive that holds it on the basket. When the two ends of the Armacell came together, I trimmed the end on an angle so that it overlapped the beginning end just a bit to ensure a tight closure.

The bare foam side then goes against the baffle when you reinstall the driver/PR. Torque down the screws, and you get a great seal! Moreover, you don't have to worry about stripping out the MDF of the baffle by over-torqueing the screws!

By the way, I don't think anybody mentioned that you should also put JB Weld on the driver magnets before you Dynamat Extreme them. There are instructions for this in a few threads, and some guys use alternatives to JB Weld. I found it satisfactory and reasonably easy to apply. It keeps the magnets from shifting.

Not sure you can see it well in the following picture, but it shows up as a brownish or grayish "ring" around the magnet along the back plate, and it is also at the bottom of the magnet against the basket.

Once again, if the original gaskets are not damaged there is absolutely no reason to replace them. If they are damaged and you don't feel like hacking up a bunch of Armacell, Parts Express sells 1/2" wide foam gasket tape.

If she rules the roost just warn her that it will be a tad dusty and all will be cleaned up shortly if you don't have a garage. Yes do the Dynamatting while all speakers are out and check your cabinet bracing and corners. I used Liquid Nails on all seams for my 2Bs. Again I've said this quite a few times if you do not want to buy the Dynamat go to a car audio place they are the ones who use it the most and ask for scraps and they should easily oblige you. You should do it. I also if you noticed I put in strips of Black Hole- 5 and that sh&t works as advertised. So much so I was going to pull it out but got used to the sound so it's in there. That was a C/L buy **** 12 for a full sheet.
Randy, good luck it is worth it and I was the most hard headed anti mod dude and I'm more than pleased w/ ALL the results.... Lew

boston1450 wrote: »

Funny that you say this. I was just looking at the new catalog. Thanks for offer but i will use the old ones or go with Armacell. The gaskets were just like new & came out nicely when i glued the magnets. When i pop them out i will have Armacell on hand before i do

I think you're making the right choice. I'm glad your stock gaskets are in good shape.

Continued good luck with your mods.