Larry Rings

boston1450

So-sad to say but ive still got the box of Larry's Rings & i have not installed them. Ive been putting it off. Why? Maybe im chicken to take on the project. Well i did open it & uhhhhh nice-now what do i do with them LOL. Lately ive been doing lots of DIY task & its time to step up to the task. Honestly i have no idea what to do & even looking at all the peices its got me in awe. Is there a thread here that goes over the installation of these ? Thanks In Advance
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Edit. They are for the 1c's

Moose68Bash

boston1450 wrote: »

So-sad to say but ive still got the box of Larry's Rings & i have not installed them. Ive been putting it off. Why? Maybe im chicken to take on the project. Well i did open it & uhhhhh nice-now what do i do with them LOL. Lately ive been doing lots of DIY task & its time to step up to the task. Honestly i have no idea what to do & even looking at all the peices its got me in awe. Is there a thread here that goes over the installation of these ? Thanks In Advance
..
Edit. They are for the 1c's

I did it for my 1Cs, and it was doable, even for me. I'm not the handiest guy with hand tools.

Obviously, first remove and disconnect the tweeters, drivers, and PRs.

Take the templates out of the set of rings and brackets ( two brackets for each tweeter, one ring for each driver and each PR, of course).

Use the suitable template to ream out the existing holes for all the screws that attach the tweeters/drivers/PRs to the baffle. Be careful not to run-out the holes into the openings for the tweeters/drivers/PRs as you are drilling -- that is, drill the holes perpendicular to the front of the baffle. I laid the speakers on their backs to do the drilling; others prefer to leave them standing upright.

Put the appropriate brackets/rings behind the holes for the tweeters/drivers, and press the threaded inserts through the baffle from behind for each tweeter/driver. In this step, you may have to grind off or cut off an edge on some brackets or rings to accommodate the internal bracing of the speaker cabinet. I know this has to be done for the SRSs, but I do not recall whether it is necessary for the 1Cs. If it is, use a Dremel tool or bench grinder to remove as much material as is necessary for the fit. There is a thread that describes this step in detail.)

The brackets fit through the driver openings. The driver rings fit through the PR opening.

To install each PR ring behind the baffle, you will need to gently and slightly bend the ring at marked points on each side to get it inside the cabinet. Then, press the threaded inserts in each ring through the drilled holes in the baffle.

Reconnect the tweeters and drivers and reinstall them. Do the PRs last.

Hope this helps.

boston1450

Thank you. Big help there. I may end up doing them asap. Im getting ready to spike them. Seems easy..... I do have a question. I will post pictures below

boston1450

These are for the tweets-2 for each tweet. What is the 1 plate for ?

boston1450

These are for the passive 2 the same & 1 flat ? Whats the flat 1 for

boston1450

Drivers. 8 of them for each & 1 flat ? the flat one is on left & there are 8 on right (not all pictured)

boston1450

Do i need/use any seals/gaskets at all ? Sorry about so many questions. Just want to do it right. Thanks

boston1450

Oh. Maybe they are the templates ???? DUH. I should report myself

boston1450

Now to throw a real curve ball on this thread.. I should dynamat the drivers & passive while im at it ? Should i wait to do all this if im going to remove crossover to have them upgraded. My plan is to remove them & ship them out.

voltz

While you have the drivers & PR out I would go ahead and put the dynamate xtreme on them.

here a pic of Dave's speakers that he added it to mine didnt look so neat so I showed you his

voltz

and I think you want to use the original gaskets with the rings if at all possible cause they are nice and thin. I didnt use the ring and just used hurricane nuts.

nooshinjohn

the flat ones are the templates for drilling the new mounting holes.

Get some Armacell from Home Depot to replace the stock gaskets.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Armacell-2-in-x-30-ft-R-1-Foam-Insulation-Tape-TAP18230/100539553?N=5yc1vZ40k

boston1450

voltz wrote: »

and I think you want to use the original gaskets with the rings if at all possible cause they are nice and thin. I didnt use the ring and just used hurricane nuts.

mine wont look any better LOL but im game

nooshinjohn wrote: »

the flat ones are the templates for drilling the new mounting holes.

Get some Armacell from Home Depot to replace the stock gaskets.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Armacell-2-in-x-30-ft-R-1-Foam-Insulation-Tape-TAP18230/100539553?N=5yc1vZ40k

Thanks for the tip. I will give it a try making them

leftwinger57

Randy,besides Dynamatting drilling and installing the rings was so easy and theraputic at the same time. Yes it's a bit messy so have a vacuum handy and either cover your x-overs or pull them out. I have recovered the entire rears of the passives w/ more Dynamat Extreme.

leftwinger57

If not mentioned the flat pieces are the drilling templates and those w/ the nipples are the actual rings that you install from underneath to make that air tight sandwhich when you add new gaskets. If you notice my tool belt to the left is the Armacell/ Armaflex gasket tape which is @ Home Depot for about $8 a roll. The clamps Chinese junk for $2 apiece and the tools were from my alarm installing days.

boston1450

Did you just use your old gaskets for a pattern to make new ones ?

boston1450

Thanks for all the tips guys. It sure makes this project easier. I have alot of the tools & just seeing pics & feedback is making this project look like fun. thank you again

Moose68Bash

boston1450 wrote: »

Did you just use your old gaskets for a pattern to make new ones ?

My gaskets for the tweeters were still in good shape; so, I reused them on both my 1Cs and SRSs.

The gaskets for the drivers and PRs were destroyed by my removing the drivers and PRs. I replaced them with the Armacell cited above.

You don't need a template to make new gaskets. The Armacell comes in 2-inches-wide strips that are 30 feet long. I cut lengths of the Armacell long enough to go around the drivers and PRs (with a little extra for insurance. Then I cut the 2-inches-wide Armacell into strips that were 1/2 inch wide,

Then, I laid the armacell on the flange on the back of each driver/PR, removing the backing paper as I moved around the driver/PR. The back of the Armacell has an adhesive that holds it on the basket. When the two ends of the Armacell came together, I trimmed the end on an angle so that it overlapped the beginning end just a bit to ensure a tight closure.

The bare foam side then goes against the baffle when you reinstall the driver/PR. Torque down the screws, and you get a great seal! Moreover, you don't have to worry about stripping out the MDF of the baffle by over-torqueing the screws!

By the way, I don't think anybody mentioned that you should also put JB Weld on the driver magnets before you Dynamat Extreme them. There are instructions for this in a few threads, and some guys use alternatives to JB Weld. I found it satisfactory and reasonably easy to apply. It keeps the magnets from shifting.

Not sure you can see it well in the following picture, but it shows up as a brownish or grayish "ring" around the magnet along the back plate, and it is also at the bottom of the magnet against the basket.

codyc1ark

@leftwinger57 very nice job and photos.

boston1450

Very nice. Great tip on the driver & pr gasket. I already did the magnets when i got them a couple of years ago. I already put rd0's in them. I havent done any more. I picked up the rings last year & never got to it. Ive been upgrading gear & cables & sources. So now its speaker time this isnt my only hobby & it can add up in the wallet dept

leftwinger57

For me, my gaskets few were salvageable but I decided to keep everything status quo by cutting in new ones. If not said yet once the passives and mids and tweets are pulled you might get lucky and the template holes just might line up w/ the original screw holes. When drilling make sure you are perfectly vertical or else the rings won't seat right. Also Larry gave me screws that resembled square heads if you do not have that tool ask for phillip head screws. As I told this before if you need Dynanmat go to an audio install place and see if they will give you scraps. They gave me enough to do multiple 2Bs.

F1nut

Once again, if the original gaskets are not damaged there is absolutely no reason to replace them. If they are damaged and you don't feel like hacking up a bunch of Armacell, Parts Express sells 1/2" wide foam gasket tape.

boston1450

Thanks for all the tips. I was advised i wont be starting this project today by the my lovely boss. She has other plans. I will report back once i start

leftwinger57

If she rules the roost just warn her that it will be a tad dusty and all will be cleaned up shortly if you don't have a garage. Yes do the Dynamatting while all speakers are out and check your cabinet bracing and corners. I used Liquid Nails on all seams for my 2Bs. Again I've said this quite a few times if you do not want to buy the Dynamat go to a car audio place they are the ones who use it the most and ask for scraps and they should easily oblige you. You should do it. I also if you noticed I put in strips of Black Hole- 5 and that sh&t works as advertised. So much so I was going to pull it out but got used to the sound so it's in there. That was a C/L buy **** 12 for a full sheet.
Randy, good luck it is worth it and I was the most hard headed anti mod dude and I'm more than pleased w/ ALL the results.... Lew

Moose68Bash

boston1450,

I've got a 50' roll of the Parts Express gasket tape that F1nut mentions above. I bought it to use on my 1Cs and SRSs, but chose not to use it.

Somewhere on the Forum, I read that over time Parts Express gasket tape deteriorates and can damage the baffle when drivers are removed.

So, I have used Armacell, which gets good reviews on the Forum. I didn't find it difficult to cut into 1/2" strips. Yes, it takes some extra time, but not that much.

If you want my Parts Express tape, it's yours for the cost of mailing. Just send me your mailing address, and I'll let you know the mailing cost.

boston1450

Moose68Bash wrote: »

boston1450,

I've got a 50' roll of the Parts Express gasket tape that F1nut mentions above. I bought it to use on my 1Cs and SRSs, but chose not to use it.

Somewhere on the Forum, I read that over time Parts Express gasket tape deteriorates and can damage the baffle when drivers are removed.

So, I have used Armacell, which gets good reviews on the Forum. I didn't find it difficult to cut into 1/2" strips. Yes, it takes some extra time, but not that much.

If you want my Parts Express tape, it's yours for the cost of mailing. Just send me your mailing address, and I'll let you know the mailing cost.

Funny that you say this. I was just looking at the new catalog. Thanks for offer but i will use the old ones or go with Armacell. The gaskets were just like new & came out nicely when i glued the magnets. When i pop them out i will have Armacell on hand before i do

boston1450

Lew. I rule the roost-When the wife isnt home took wife & daughter out for brunch & went up the coast for a ride. Its sunny & 60+ degrees up here. We enjoyed the morning Sometimes its just not about audio. Did i just say that LOL

Moose68Bash

boston1450 wrote: »

Funny that you say this. I was just looking at the new catalog. Thanks for offer but i will use the old ones or go with Armacell. The gaskets were just like new & came out nicely when i glued the magnets. When i pop them out i will have Armacell on hand before i do

I think you're making the right choice. I'm glad your stock gaskets are in good shape.

Continued good luck with your mods.

leftwinger57

Great stuff. I never saw the 2" Armaflex so I bought the wider roll. All you need is a sharp exacto or razor knife w/ a ruler or yard stick,cutting board and your in. It's not rocket science. The x-overs were for me and they went out to VR-3. Glad all is stable on the home front. ...lol lol

boston1450

Thats my plan too. I wont attempt that. Although i wouldnt mind learning on some pair i got kicking around. Hanging around here ive enjoyed alot & im doing things ive never done before & i feel good about the results so far

voltz

I did the crossovers for my Monitor 4's myself, I was new to using the soldering iron so I only burned myself once. (wasn't going to do it a 2nd time)
But I wanted my monitor 10's done right so I had Dave Do them
going to have him do my CRS's also.

But I did enjoy doing the hurricane nuts & dynamat xtreme and blackhole 5. and the Loctite powergrab to the drivers.