3.1TL Terminal Cup upgrade & AI-1 Build (finally!)

Drenis
Drenis Posts: 2,871
edited May 2013 in DIY, Mods & Tweaks
Boy when I went in on the group buy for the Avel 1000VA that it would take this long to assemble it. I just used a old speaker wire secured into the pin for SDA signal. So this was a nice upgrade. Will be nice to have freedom when choosing amps in the future and to have a proper connection for SDA enjoyment. I also coaxed myself into "blinging" my speakers if you will with the nice polk aluminum plates Trey (Vr3) made. I like that they are unique to some of us here. In the end, I really dig it! Thanks for helping me spend my money Trey! :razz:

So the other half went out of town to her parents place for the night. That meant a trip to the liquor store and time to do the mods. This was new in my favorite section...

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Started early in the afternoon and boy... gooooood stuff. Enjoy some pictures...

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Damn rights Jesse (F1nut) can't have all the NL2/4 fun to himself! :razz: For reference: The cable used is MIT but is temporary

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Binding Posts stay to the left!

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The washers for the bindings posts are very picky about how much you tighten them. I broke a couple but fixed with a solution.

Was a great evening of drinks with me and my speakers....

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Now for the finished product:

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Everything is burning in nicely. SDA sounds much better already.

Also something else I discovered when I began this project was when I went to loosen my PR, it was fairly easy. Upon fastening everything up, I was able to turn all my MW screws an additional 180-360 degrees and some that even turned more! Shame on me for not going back over them after I first tightened them down the first time. But I went over both of them and they are definitely coupled now... I just want to state something Jesse said once... don't need no stinkin' subwoofer!

The last mod is the crossover upgrades and those are in progress. And they wont disappoint.
Post edited by Drenis on
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Comments

  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 29,385
    edited April 2013
    Everything turned out great Andre!!! Looks like a million bucks! Excellent work!

    You are going to hate this next line though - I would put hot glue around the perimeter of the NL2/4 cut out just to make sure it is air tight... :)

    Cant wait to see how the crossovers looked installed!
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
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  • Drenis
    Drenis Posts: 2,871
    edited April 2013
    VR3 wrote: »
    Everything turned out great Andre!!! Looks like a million bucks! Excellent work!

    You are going to hate this next line though - I would put hot glue around the perimeter of the NL2/4 cut out just to make sure it is air tight... :)

    Cant wait to see how the crossovers looked installed!

    I wondered if anyone would say something along those lines. I actually was going to use my girlfriends hot glue gun but there are no refill sticks for it. Not hard to pop out and do. :) Good eyes!
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  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 29,385
    edited April 2013
    Also, a good replacement for those nylon washers is a 8/32 nylon nut :)

    Rock n roll!
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 51,674
    edited April 2013
    Real quick.....I would not use hot glue. If you ever want to remove the plates it will pull up/tear the covering on the back panel. I'd try the Armacell gasket material.

    That said, job well done! Looks really nice.
    The cable used is MIT but is temporary

    Why temporary?
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • ken brydson
    ken brydson Posts: 8,980
    edited April 2013
    Can't comment on your upgrade but your drink of choice is in my wheelhouse...
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  • GospelTruth
    GospelTruth Posts: 403
    edited April 2013
    F1nut wrote: »
    Real quick.....I would not use hot glue. If you ever want to remove the plates it will pull up/tear the covering on the back panel. I'd try the Armacell gasket material.

    That said, job well done! Looks really nice.

    It looks like he did put the Armacell around the new plates. I think Trey was just saying to put it around the SDA connector (NL2/4) on the inside to ensure air doesn't leak out around that connector point.

    It does look nice though! Makes me want to finish off doing mods to mine. No time at the moment though, so I'll just have to watch everyone else for the time being.
    Speakers
    Energy RC-70 Mains, Energy RC-LRC Center, Energy RC-R (x4) Rear Channels, Energy RC-R (x2) Front Effects
    Polk 5jr+
    Polk SDA 2B
    Polk SDS 3.1TL
    Equipment
    Panamax 5510 Re-generator Power Conditioner
    Yamaha RX-V3800 Receiver
    Digital Sources: Sony CDP-X339ES CD Player, HHB CDR830 BurnIt Professional CD Recorder, Sony PS3, Oppo DV-983H DVD Player
    Analog Sources: Sony TC-K890ES Cassette, Nakamichi DR-1 Cassette, Technics SL-7 Turntable
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 51,674
    edited April 2013
    I think Trey was just saying to put it around the SDA connector (NL2/4) on the inside to ensure air doesn't leak out around that connector point.

    Ugh, my reading comprehension failed me on that one. Thanks!
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,981
    edited April 2013
    If you did use armicel why are there splits in it? If you put the spits in it you don't have to do that, just pull it around lightly it will compress just fine if not better..
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  • Drenis
    Drenis Posts: 2,871
    edited April 2013
    F1nut wrote: »
    Why temporary?

    The current cable will allow the speakers to be pulled apart no more than 7, maybe 7.5 feet (inside measurement), I am planning on buying a new cable to allow me to move the speakers up to 16 feet apart. I can only space my speakers 6 feet apart (inside measurement) at the most currently. Once I move, I'll have lots more flexibility. :cool:

    Toolfan66 wrote: »
    If you did use armicel why are there splits in it? If you put the spits in it you don't have to do that, just pull it around lightly it will compress just fine if not better..

    Like my MW's, I found cutting slight slits frequently along one side helped with curving the gasket how I wanted. When compressed, the slits compress into one another and there is a solid inner circle that is untouched. I'm confident it seals without issue. I made sure to go back and re-tighten down after compression. The only minor air leak is from seeping through the NL2 and binding post holes. Some hot glue will be applies to the inside seams of each connector including a good dump on each binding post nut to make the plates air tight.

    However, my MW's tightened up when I actually went over them the other day and found they were all in need of of more clamping force. The bass is unreal now... Can't imagine what the 2.3 or 1.2's would be like...
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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 26,925
    edited April 2013
    nice work envious of those puppies
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  • Mike Reeter
    Mike Reeter Posts: 4,315
    edited April 2013
    VR3 wrote: »

    Cant wait to see how the crossovers looked installed!

    Something similar to this I would guess :biggrin: Good job Andre, the new plates look great.
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  • Drenis
    Drenis Posts: 2,871
    edited April 2013
    Mike Reeter wrote: »
    Something similar to this I would guess :biggrin: Good job Andre, the new plates look great.

    A little more bling. ;) I'm surprised Trey hasn't posted on the build yet...

    Crossovers will feature Clarity Cap ESA build for Tweeter, Mids and SDA circuit with Mundorf Mox resistors and Jantzen inductors for everything. All on Gimpod boards.

    and thanks buddy for the comments!
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  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 29,385
    edited April 2013
    I will update the 3.1TL thread soon... :-P
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 51,674
    edited April 2013
    The current cable will allow the speakers to be pulled apart no more than 7, maybe 7.5 feet (inside measurement), I am planning on buying a new cable to allow me to move the speakers up to 16 feet apart. I can only space my speakers 6 feet apart (inside measurement) at the most currently. Once I move, I'll have lots more flexibility.

    The recommended spacing is 6 to 8 feet apart. You'll never need or want to space them 16 feet apart.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • Drenis
    Drenis Posts: 2,871
    edited April 2013
    VR3 wrote: »
    I will update the 3.1TL thread soon... :-P

    I think you just wanted me to spill the beans. Don't be such a pansy! :razz:
    F1nut wrote: »
    The recommended spacing is 6 to 8 feet apart. You'll never need or want to space them 16 feet apart.

    It is my understanding that to properly set them up, that they must equal the same distance apart as they are to the listening position. It's even diagrammed that way. I think IMO, that they sound great currently spaced apart (6 feet) for the distance I sit at (9 feet). But that is subjective as I keep telling myself that even though it sounds good..., not great, but it's still wrong.

    Interesting points you bring up though.
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 51,674
    edited April 2013
    It is my understanding that to properly set them up, that they must equal the same distance apart as they are to the listening position. It's even diagrammed that way.

    Yes it is, but......I've found they sound better exactly like you have them now. Of course, it will vary with the room, but in my old house and the new one (very different rooms) I didn't like the presentation when set up equal distance. Another example, years ago I had a friend with SRS's in a fairly large room with the speakers spaced far apart. I'm going on memory, but I'd say they were between 12 to 15 feet apart. Sure they filled the room with sound, but the sound stage and imaging didn't seem right. I convinced him to move them 8 feet apart while keeping the sofa where it was, which was about 12 feet away. His face said it all. Anyway, you'll figure it out when you get into your new place.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • nspindel
    nspindel Posts: 5,343
    edited April 2013
    Andre, nice work. Congrats on finally getting your Dreadnaught set up! Can't believe you waited so long, mine was ready the night the transformer arrived!

    One question about the screws you're tightening down. Wondering if you're using Larry's rings?
    Good music, a good source, and good power can make SDA's sing. Tubes make them dance.
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  • heiney9
    heiney9 Posts: 25,396
    edited April 2013
    There is a practical limit they can be set apart, regardless of the distance away you sit. Experimentation is the key within your room, but 16' is going to be too far apart.

    BTW, nice work!

    H9
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Puritan Audio PSM136 Pwr Condtioner & Classic PC's | Legend L600 | Roon Nucleus 1 w/LPS - Tubes add soul!
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  • Drenis
    Drenis Posts: 2,871
    edited April 2013
    Thanks for the advice guys. I suppose I'm not being practical on my cable length needs as far as spacing the speakers.
    F1nut wrote: »
    Yes it is, but......I've found they sound better exactly like you have them now. Of course, it will vary with the room, but in my old house and the new one (very different rooms) I didn't like the presentation when set up equal distance. Another example, years ago I had a friend with SRS's in a fairly large room with the speakers spaced far apart. I'm going on memory, but I'd say they were between 12 to 15 feet apart. Sure they filled the room with sound, but the sound stage and imaging didn't seem right. I convinced him to move them 8 feet apart while keeping the sofa where it was, which was about 12 feet away. His face said it all. Anyway, you'll figure it out when you get into your new place.

    Great story. I've tried listening to them in a "proper" distance and I didn't like it at all. I agree with you remarks about placement cause we currently are in a 100+ year old house now.
    nspindel wrote: »
    Andre, nice work. Congrats on finally getting your Dreadnaught set up! Can't believe you waited so long, mine was ready the night the transformer arrived!

    One question about the screws you're tightening down. Wondering if you're using Larry's rings?

    Thanks! I sure am using Larry's rings.
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  • zane77
    zane77 Posts: 1,696
    edited May 2013
    deleted
    Home Theater
    Onkyo PR-SC5508 Sharp LC-70LE847U
    Emotiva XPA-5 Emotiva XPA-2 Emotiva UPA-2
    Front RTi-A9 Wide RTi-A7 Center CSi-A6 Surround FXi-A6 Rear RTi-A3 Sub 2x PSW505
    Sony BDP-S790 Dishnetwork Hopper/Joey Logitech Harmony One Apple TV
    Two Channel
    Oppo 105D BAT VK-500 w/BatPack SDA SRS 2.3 Dreadnought Squeezebox Touch Apple TV
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