High quality USB cable for USB DAC

2»

Comments

  • Systems
    Systems Posts: 14,873
    edited August 2012
    You should put your money in a Weller WES-51 solder station Dan (especially how many cables you deal with :).
    If you opt for the USB with no power (which is the route I would travel), you could easily make your own
    USB provided you can find some good connectors (which is the problem).
    Not that the one with power would be a problem either, your only dealing with 5v.

    Just a matter of running a digital signal (which in the case of usb is data packet transfer) along with power
    in such close proximity bothers me.
    If I could exclude the power in such a small cable, I certainly would.
    Shielding can only do so much unless you double or triple shield (then the cable gets bigger and bigger).
    Computer usb power IMHO has more "grunge" than most any other power supply, which is why most do not consider usb as a
    viable "audiophile" connection.

    If you had the solder station, you could also build a better power supply for the dac.
    Buy a kit with board and instructions, and upgrade the surface components, or just the schematics for one, and
    upgrade.

    Alittle patience, a good solder station and your there for the price of a "overpriced" USB cable!


    Anyone have a lead on some "good" usb connectors?
    Testing
    Testing
    Testing
  • rooftop59
    rooftop59 Posts: 7,952
    edited August 2012
    erniejade wrote: »

    That what I use. Honestly I tried it because I've had good luck with their PCs and it was the cheapest upgraded cable I could find. My pc setup is very basic, and I don't have anything to compare it to, but it has worked fine for me.
    Living Room 2.2: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Arcam SA30; Musical Fidelity A308; Sony UBP-x1000es; Squeezebox Touch with Bolder Power Supply
    Game Room 5.1.4:
    Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 900 mains, CLR-3000 center, StudioMonitor 350 surrounds, ProMonitor 800 atmos x4; Sub - Monoprice Monolith 15in THX Ultra

    Bedroom 2.1
    Cambridge Azur 551r; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer
  • Systems
    Systems Posts: 14,873
    edited August 2012
    Keep in mind Dan, if you go the "non powered route" it is a single tasker.
    Meaning you cannot really use it on anything that requires usb power.

    My plans were to build a usb cable that includes a 3.5mm power supply at the B side.
    Thus the power does not run parallel to the digital signal.
    The power would only be plugged in right at "load" side.

    Never seen one like it, and don't really care if someone steals the idea at this point considering,
    I have been wanting to build one for over a year now with no results :).

    Its a good idea though becuase it would be a "multi tasker".
    You need usb power? Plug the power in, if not leave the power unplugged.
    Testing
    Testing
    Testing
  • EndersShadow
    EndersShadow Posts: 17,517
    edited August 2012
    pepster wrote: »
    If you had the solder station, you could also build a better power supply for the dac. Buy a kit with board and instructions, and upgrade the surface components, or just the schematics for one, and upgrade.

    Pep, the USB DAC I am using is the one in this post (specs here). I dont think I need an upgraded power supply for this puppy :smile:, its got more than enough to throw down on just about anything. An upgraded Pepster powercable later on, more than likely however :wink::razz:

    Attachment not found. Attachment not found. Attachment not found.
    pepster wrote: »
    You should put your money in a Weller WES-51 solder station Dan (especially how many cables you deal with :). If you opt for the USB with no power (which is the route I would travel), you could easily make your own USB provided you can find some good connectors (which is the problem). Not that the one with power would be a problem either, your only dealing with 5v.

    Just a matter of running a digital signal (which in the case of usb is data packet transfer) along with power in such close proximity bothers me. If I could exclude the power in such a small cable, I certainly would. Shielding can only do so much unless you double or triple shield (then the cable gets bigger and bigger). Computer usb power IMHO has more "grunge" than most any other power supply, which is why most do not consider usb as a viable "audiophile" connection.

    A little patience, a good solder station and your there for the price of a "overpriced" USB cable! Anyone have a lead on some "good" usb connectors?

    Keep in mind Dan, if you go the "non powered route" it is a single tasker. Meaning you cannot really use it on anything that requires usb power. My plans were to build a usb cable that includes a 3.5mm power supply at the B side. Thus the power does not run parallel to the digital signal. The power would only be plugged in right at "load" side.

    Never seen one like it, and don't really care if someone steals the idea at this point considering, I have been wanting to build one for over a year now with no results :). Its a good idea though becuase it would be a "multi tasker". You need usb power? Plug the power in, if not leave the power unplugged.

    I dont need USB power just USB signal. I liked the wireworld cables initially because while they do have both power and signal they are totally separated and isolated within the actual cable. So I could use it to power devices as well if I wanted to.

    usbg_x.jpg
    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)