Polk Audio RTiA7 Mod Thread

Vr3MxStyler2k3 wrote: »

Assuming all of the woofers are 8 ohms (I am using 8 ohm woofers for the load) - the crossover measures out at 5-6 ohms vs. 8 ohms -- very interesting

The subs are 4 ohms in series netting 8 ohms.

Just got done dynomatting the drivers.

I am new so i don't have 10 post, but would love to have my A9's mod how can i contact you

Just to let you guys know. I had Trey (Vr3MxStyler2k3) modd my RTI A7's and CSI A4 cross overs. He did a good job, and they were a lot of work. They sound quite a bit better. It took the edeg off the tweeters. They don't seem so in your face and over powering. They are more full sounding. I liked the RTI A7's before the mod, but they are even more sweet now. I dont have an audiophile ear just enjoy great sound quality. I am currently powering them with my Onkyo TX-NR808 rated at 135wpc @ 2 channels driven.

The worst part of the deal was using TV speakers while my xo's were out being modded.

I would recomend doing it if you like the speakers you currently have, because you will love them after modding them.

upgraded the wire between the mid/tweet BPs & their filtering to AR 12ga OFC

upgraded the wire between the mid & its filter to 14 ga OFC

removed the sub LP filtering
upgraded the sub wire to 8 ga, this channel' s subs connected to its own XL280 w/10 ga MC

Currently evaluating with music. Modded channel's bass noticebly more percussive

will use RTA this weekend for comparative readings & tune sub/mid balance

gp4jesus wrote: »

upgraded the [internal] sub wire to 8 ga, this channel' s subs connected to its own XL280 w/10 ga MC
...Modded channel's bass* noticebly more percussive*

interesting side notes to this fact*:
2 XL280s driving the A7s in 2ch mode
Primary '280 driving both** channels**: 90+% rewired with heavier wire; heaviest grounding the driver boards & connecting the outputs to the BPs
* driving the modded channel's M & T & unmodded channel full range

the other '280 (w/original wiring) driving the modded channel's subs.

an ommission from post #72: XO'd about 150hz

post 76 reported

I was waiting to see how this turned out - looks good VR3M! After getting my LSi9s modded by Ben, I'm about 99% convinced that I should do this too I take it my CSi A6 would need to be modded as well for consistency?

Any other thoughts on sonic improvements jbooker? Up until now, I've been upgrading the amps / wires to get an improvement on my A7s.

-Praz

Good deal, sounds logical to me

Keep us up to date. What all are you having done? Clarity Caps and Mills resistors?.

Does your A6 center channel have 1 or 2 circuit boards for the xo. My a4 just had one but you cannot bi amp it like you can with the CSI A6 (or at least I though you could bi amp it).

I don't know if you have enough room for a tall xo in the center channel. I could only get one finger between the caps on the XO and driver on my csi a4.

Keep us up to date.

PrazVT wrote: »

My A7/A6 crossovers are on their way to Trey now, so I'm next up to try this out on the RTi A series!

So proud... :biggrin:

PrazVT wrote: »

I think Jim brainwashed me :rolleyes:

I'd like to think I enlightened you, but may be right haha.

The ClarityCaps will blow your mind. What resistors are you going to have installed?

PrazVT wrote: »

I'd let Trey give the parts breakdown - I suspect it'd be similar to yours. Good question about the circuit boards on the A6 - I honestly wasn't thinking about it when I took it out, but the xo wasn't as long as the A7's. Plus the A6 is 6 inches deeper + 4 inches wider than the A4 so should be ok.

Yea I just thought I would say someting just incase. If it is 6 inches deeper then you shouldnt have a clearance problem. Is the binding post plate directly behind a driver or is it in the center of the back?

Might as well get some dynomat coming and cover the baskets and the metal magnet shields of the drivers. That is what I did to kill time while they were down. My wife though I was going crazzy being with out them.

If you take your driver and tap or knock on the side of the magnet shield it will ring. The dynomat just stops unwanted noise and vibration. How much it helps I can't tell you for sure because I done the xo's at the same time.

It helps lighter stamped steel baskets behave / sound like heavier cast baskets.

I just done it due to the fact that it couldn't hurt and the small role of dynomat was 30 bucks or less.

Just don't put any on the baskets where the driver makes contact with the wood cabnet. It won't seal and make it harder to take out.