Polk Audio RTiA7 Mod Thread

Options
VR3
VR3 Posts: 28,092
edited April 2013 in DIY, Mods & Tweaks
This should be a fun one - quite a few caps on a small board.

I am thinking of getting larger spacers for this one and extending the wires to the binding post... This should allow for easier positioning of the caps.

Should be fun none the less. I searched the forum for a previous mod thread and did not see any....

I believe the parts list on this one will be -

Clarity Cap PX on the midbass/woofers and Clarity SA or ESA on the tweeter. Mox resistors most likely.
- Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
Post edited by VR3 on
«134

Comments

  • jbooker82
    jbooker82 Posts: 1,627
    edited April 2011
    Options
    I guess your going to be forging your own path on this one. I tried looking too and couldn't find anything. Post up some before and after pics when you get to them.

    josh
    AVR: Onkyo Tx-NR808
    Amplifier: Carver A-753x 250 watts x 3
    Fronts: Polk RTI A7 (modded by Trey VR3)
    Center: CSI A4 (modded by Trey VR3)
    Rear: FXI A4
    Sub: Polk DSW Pro 660wi
    TV: LG Infinia 50PX950 3D
    Speaker Cable: AudioQuest Type 8
    IC: AudioQuest Black Mamba II
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,092
    edited April 2011
    Options
    I think we have this Josh!! OH YEAH!

    See your PM
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,092
    edited April 2011
    Options
    Im tickled silly - wait till you guys see what I came up with!!

    HAHAHAH!!!

    This is so exciting. Im such a freakin nerd that this excites me.

    But I cannot wait to do these and any others like this.

    I could have potentially stumbled upon the definition of awesome! :)

    Woo Hoo!
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,092
    edited April 2011
    Options
    Check this out!

    I can put whatever the hell I want on this crossover now and not miss a beat!
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,092
    edited April 2011
    Options
    My plan was to cut a piece of plywood to put at the very bottom and top -- mount the smaller assortment of caps at the bottom and solder to the board..

    Put the larger caps at the very top...

    And keep the resistors on the board...

    Should be freakin SWEET
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,092
    edited April 2011
    Options
    Actually I think for weight distribution reasons I am going to mount the original boards upside down and put the larger caps near the terminal cup. Should prevent the plastic from flexing over time.
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
  • McLoki
    McLoki Posts: 5,231
    edited April 2011
    Options
    Just stating the obvious before you get to far....

    You have no issues with depth correct? (i.e. - there is not the back of a woofer 3" inside the crossover hole....) Other than that - looks great.

    Michael
    Mains.............Polk LSi15 (Cherry)
    Center............Polk LSiC (Crossover upgraded)
    Surrounds.......Polk LSi7 (Gloss Black - wood sides removed and crossovers upgraded)
    Subwoofers.....SVS 25-31 CS+ and PC+ (both 20hz tune)
    Pre\Pro...........NAD T163 (Modded with LM4562 opamps)
    Amplifier.........Cinepro 3k6 (6-channel, 500wpc@4ohms)
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,092
    edited April 2011
    Options
    11" plus

    Thanks!
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 16,947
    edited April 2011
    Options
    You might just push me to do my A9's!!!!
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,092
    edited April 2011
    Options
    Do it!! :)
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 16,947
    edited April 2011
    Options
    I wish polk offered another tweeter for the RTiA series, I know wishfull thinking as I know they would sell very few anyway but if you had a smoother tweeter for music, and as beautiful as these are? would be awesome!!!

    Maybe your upgrades will smooth them a little. Don't get me wrong I love my RTiA 7.2 HT setup!!!
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,092
    edited April 2011
    Options
    Yeah the RTi series in general has always been bright.

    On this one we are using Clarity Cap PX and Clarity Cap ESA on the bypass caps - it should definitely smooth them out
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited April 2011
    Options
    When upgrading caps, there's no need for the bypass anymore, IMO.
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
  • Outfitter03
    Outfitter03 Posts: 563
    edited April 2011
    Options
    I would be a little concerned about the bolts interacting with the inductors. Maybe you could get some made from nylon.
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,092
    edited April 2011
    Options
    I dont think it will be a big issue... the bolt is not running through the inductor...
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,092
    edited April 2011
    Options
    I will say this - this is going to be slick as s$%t!

    I bought some breadboard from Ratshack and cut it to size - already installed the new binding post on the terminal cups - ran some wire and mounted the base to the set up.

    Should be extremely cool!
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
  • EDUBAG
    EDUBAG Posts: 401
    edited April 2011
    Options
    please keep posting on this and with pics. i own a pair of a7 and would love to get them to their potential.

    regards,

    eduardo
    HT:
    POLK AUDIO RTI4 FRONTS
    CSI3 CENTER
    DEF TECH PROMONITOR800 SURROUNDS
    PSW 125 SUB
    PIONEER ELITE AVR23TXH AVR
    APPLE TV 160GB
    PANASONIC BLURAY PLAYER
    50" PANASONIC PLASMA TCP50C2

    2 CHANNEL:
    KEF R300 THREE WAY BOOKSHELF GLOSS PIANO BLACK
    ROTEL RC 990BX PRE
    ROTEL RB 990BX AMP
    OPPO DV980 (AS CD PLAYER)
    PIONEER PL100 TURNTABLE WITH SHURE MX97E CART
    MIT EXP2 SPEAKER CABLES
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,092
    edited April 2011
    Options
    Ill try to post as many pics as possible.

    With anything in life... Im waiting on parts. HAHA
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
  • mrbiron
    mrbiron Posts: 5,711
    edited April 2011
    Options
    Yes pictures pictures pictures......then let us know when you want to do A5's :biggrin:
    Where’s the KABOOM?!?! There’s supposed to be an Earth shattering KABOOM!!!
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,092
    edited April 2011
    Options
    Mrbiron - send them this way! I will be happy to modify them!
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,969
    edited April 2011
    Options
    Pics, pics, & more pics please!

    Thanks

    PS what's your take on the MR HP filtering or divider between the MR & subs? Mine has neither. "Why" later thnx
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out 8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out *soldered LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & “Plugged*” Mids - 981, connected w/MP Premiere ICs Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s *Xschop's handy work
  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,969
    edited April 2011
    Options
    Some extensive reading before you finalize your mods.

    http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=61727&highlight=Capacitor+shootout

    Cheers Tony
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out 8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out *soldered LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & “Plugged*” Mids - 981, connected w/MP Premiere ICs Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s *Xschop's handy work
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,092
    edited April 2011
    Options
    Nah - Clarity Cap is the way to go.

    MR, ESA, SA, PX - all are superb caps and are like the cocaine to my tweeters! :);)
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,092
    edited April 2011
    Options
    I will say that out of the caps I have tried I also really like Auricap... I have had excellent success with them taming bright tweeters! :)
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
  • kevhed72
    kevhed72 Posts: 4,964
    edited April 2011
    Options
    So.....would you possibly be up for modding my A9s for a fee by chance?

    I cannot solder for S--- and have too many other unfinished projects around the house :redface:
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,092
    edited April 2011
    Options
    Yep! See my mod thread - or shoot me a pm
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,092
    edited April 2011
    Options
    Just a fwiw --

    I charge 20 per board on this series and then 30 additionally to alter the board configuration. Reason is mostly parts (threaded rods, nuts, breadboard, dh lab wiring - alot more soldering and alot more time...

    So basically parts of your choice + labor...

    This one with new binding posts came to about 350... (with a CSia5 thrown in)

    Thanks gents
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,969
    edited April 2011
    Options
    Nah - Clarity Cap is the way to go.

    MR, ESA, SA, PX - all are superb caps and are like the cocaine to my tweeters! :);)
    I take it you've read Ben's Capacitor Shootout. Haven't read it in quite a while; can't recall his conclusions.

    I want you to make informed mods as you will find more than a few A7 owners not entirely pleased w/the sound, myself* included. If yours are new, allow 50-100 hours break-in. They'll soften/sweeten considerably by then.
    * I believe I can correct the flaws w/active XOs and bi/tri-amping

    I'm confident the new, not-yet-broken-in, caps will sound sweeter still; when broken in, even more so!

    I mentioned in an earlier post about mid range HP filtering. Could you see any? I couldn't. One of my reasons to bi-amp.

    In the same post, a divider between the mid range and subs. Could you see one? I couldn't. Another reason to bi-amp* (and do closure mods!)
    * want to tri-amp my '7s; bi-amp the center & surrounds. I have amps & XOs so why not!

    These last 2 issues are points of contention I've had w/both Polk Customer service and a forum member who shall remain nameless for the moment. I'd greatly appreciate 3rd party confirmation on these.

    thanks for indulging me by reading this far. tony
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out 8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out *soldered LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & “Plugged*” Mids - 981, connected w/MP Premiere ICs Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s *Xschop's handy work
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,092
    edited April 2011
    Options
    Id like to note I do not actually own these speakers. I am just modifying the crossovers for a Polk member...

    Sonicaps are no where near the quality level of the ESA or MR unless you are buying Platinums...

    Sonicaps and SA series seem to be on the same level and the PX are a lower end cap that is more affordable than Sonicaps and much* nicer than Dayton... IMO

    But again - I do not own these speakers and no nothing more than what is in front me...
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
  • mdaudioguy
    mdaudioguy Posts: 5,165
    edited April 2011
    Options
    gp4jesus wrote: »
    These last 2 issues are points of contention I've had w/both Polk Customer service and a forum member who shall remain nameless for the moment. I'd greatly appreciate 3rd party confirmation on these.

    thanks for indulging me by reading this far. tony

    Why don't you try some divider mods and report back? You're right, there's no divider - so? Polk doesn't bill these speakers as being the ultimate in audio. RTi is their mid-line, and it's geared toward HT anyhow. Why would you argue with CS about it? Your posts are becoming repetitive... Time to take action - what are you waiting for?