wall mounting R20's

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gmorris
gmorris Posts: 1,179
edited September 2003 in Troubleshooting
I am planning to wall mount a pair of R20's for surrounds. The product manual says to use a #10 screw to hang the speaker from the hole provided on the back. My question is if I do this, will I be able to get the speaker wire onto the binding posts with spade connectors or banana plugs? The speaker cable will be coming out from behind the wall thru a hole in the wall which will be hidden from view behing the speaker.
Bob Mayo, on the keyboards. Bob Mayo.
Post edited by gmorris on

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  • faster100
    faster100 Posts: 6,124
    edited September 2003
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    first off, any screw basically will work, I use drywall screws and they work great! I also use the rubber feet included on the back 4 corners of the speaker to level it to the wall. if you use the small spades it should work, banana's may stick out to far depending on the type you use, this is a try and see type thing. no real way for us to tell ya, unless someone has tried. i use bare wire on the surrounds, they won't be moved around like mains or center channels and are mounted on the wall. Why add more cost to the project, and they can't even be seen.. it also adds yet another object in the signal path. I use monster locks on my front stage, speaker terminals only.. makes it easy to move and hook other speakers if i want with a pull of the plugs, far as the receiver, again why use them when they won't for the most part be removed ever, unless you change wire or do a shootout, in which case if your doing "wire shootouts" all the time then that would make it easier, sorry for the long post, just trying to shed some light on the whole banana plug needs and not so needs LOL :D
    MY HT RIG:
    Sherwood p-965
    Sherwood sd871 dvd
    Rotel 1075 amp x5
    LSI15 mains
    LsiC center
    LSIfx surround backs
    Lsi7 side surrounds
    SVS pb12/plus2


    2 Channel Rig:

    nad 1020 Pre-amp
    Rotel 1080 stereo amp
    Polk sda 2B
    kenwood grunt Tuner
    realistic lab 450 TT
    Signal cable IC
  • gmorris
    gmorris Posts: 1,179
    edited September 2003
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    are the rubber feet included with the R20's? If not, no big deal, I'll get some from Parts Express. That is a good idea.

    I agree that the surrounds & receiver won't be moved, but I just like to use terminals at the wire end so there is not exposed copper strands. Plus, it adds that finished look. Even if you can't see them, I know they are there.
    Bob Mayo, on the keyboards. Bob Mayo.
  • Tour2ma
    Tour2ma Posts: 10,177
    edited September 2003
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    Originally posted by gmorris
    ...it adds that finished look. Even if you can't see them...
    lol... The stuff signature quotes are made of...
    More later,
    Tour...
    Vox Copuli
    Better to remain silent and be thought a fool, than to open your mouth and remove all doubt. - Old English Proverb

    "Death doesn't come with a Uhaul." - Dennis Gardner

    "It's easy to get lost in price vs performance vs ego vs illusion." - doro
    "There is a certain entertainment value in ripping the occaisonal (sic) buttmunch..." - TroyD
  • faster100
    faster100 Posts: 6,124
    edited September 2003
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    yes i think all of them come with the rubber feet, my r15's i had came with the feet, actually the "R" series bookshelves are the only ones that need the rubber sticky feet on the back, the rti28,38 have a powerport with a keyhole slot to mount and plastic stableing feet on the bottom back of the speaker screwed on,

    I agree, if it can't be seen it doesnt add a finish.. lose the banana's on the surrounds and use that money to buy something else, IMO , anyway :D
    MY HT RIG:
    Sherwood p-965
    Sherwood sd871 dvd
    Rotel 1075 amp x5
    LSI15 mains
    LsiC center
    LSIfx surround backs
    Lsi7 side surrounds
    SVS pb12/plus2


    2 Channel Rig:

    nad 1020 Pre-amp
    Rotel 1080 stereo amp
    Polk sda 2B
    kenwood grunt Tuner
    realistic lab 450 TT
    Signal cable IC