Broken DB crossover :(

Vital

I had db6501's in my front doors for about a year then came across a really nice deal on MOMO 6500s and decided to use them instead of dbs.

It was cold at the time so momos were laying around in my basement for a while. Then i noticed how my db's right tweeter is distorting the sound so without any further investigation i swapped them out with MOMOs, problem solved. LOL. when taking bds out i noticed some rattle coming from x-over but didn't care cuz it was going out of my doors anyways.

Now i wanna try some rear fill and add db's woofer in my rear doors. Just the woofer, no tweets. Since i don't have any active crossovers i need to use db's x-over. Took it out today and heared the same rattle, open the cover and see this circled thing (don't know what it's called) got disconneted from the board.
From what i remember lows sounded as great as they always did, just the tweets got messed up.

So here's my logical assumption based on absolutly no knowledge of electricity, the way x-overs are built and what that thing is lol - i can still use it since i'm only looking for lows.

Commong sense tells me i'm wrong and this should be asked before doing it LOL.

Vital

Here's a quick cell phone pics i took of the actuall piece.

pioneercrazed

Was the crossover installed in your door?

My crossovers are in my door from another brand and the drivers side did this on mine and another friend of mines. From the impact of open/closing the door all the time.

It was an easy fix on mine, just heat up the solder on the crossover board after you take it out of the plastic housing and then pop the piece back onto the board.

Or if the mids sound the way that you want them just continue to use them, shouldn't hurt anything.

MacLeod

If youre just going to be using the mids, you dont need to use the crossover at all. In fact this would be idea for rear feel. Just use the natural roll off of the mids. That would actually, probably sound a little better.

Vital

Installed one speaker with a good x-over last night. To be honest i (driver) don't really notice much (if any) of a differance with a speaker in the back. I set my amp on both LPF and FLAT and there's still no differance. Once i get on in the rear seat i can def hear better with amp set to FLAT. Keep in mind it's just one speaker.

I'll install another one today without a x-over (as per MacLeod and Dskip) to see what it'll sound like.

again, there's really not much (if any at all) differance between frontstage set up and same with rearfill for the driver and front passanger. Rear passangers would benefit from it thou + more volume when u're on an openair camping or whatever, open your doors and trunk, blast your music all the way, bbq, beer and dancing till u pass out and get ticketed in the moring by park troopers for alcohol and disturbing peace. haha!

arun1963

Vital wrote: »

I set my amp on both LPF and FLAT and there's still no differance.

If you fade all the way back and then listen, you may find a big difference. Sitting up front the front comps are much louder they would drown out the lone mid at the back. With your amp set to flat, the 6x9 mid would be playing upto 4khz. With your amp set to LPF you would hear it till 200-600hz depending on where the amps xover is set.

Vital wrote: »

i get on in the rear seat i can def hear better with amp set to FLAT.

You're hearing a wider range of frequencies as explained above.

Vital wrote: »

again, there's really not much (if any at all) differance between frontstage set up and same with rearfill for the driver and front passanger.

You need to tune a bit to dial in a decent front stage. I'm not sure just how much you're using. Without this, the stage would be diffused and the sound itself would not be directional, i.e. from the front. So if you added another driver to the mix, you may not hear and feel the shift. The more cohesive your stage gets, the greater its sensitivity. Here you would feel the shift. I hope I didn't confuse you.

Vital wrote: »

passangers would benefit from it thou + more volume when u're on an openair camping or whatever, open your doors and trunk, blast your music all the way, bbq, beer and dancing till u pass out and get ticketed in the moring by park troopers for alcohol and disturbing peace. haha!

Sounds like fun. Brings back old memories, of falling asleep propped up against a pine tree in two feet of snow. Was walking back from a frat party to my dorm, thought I'd just take a break for a bit.

Vital

^^^ all makes sense, thanx

Got another question.

My current set up is:
MMC6501 comps in the front powered by PA500.4
12'' DB sub in the trunk powered by PA600.1
stock 6x9s were taken out of rear deck for bass air flow in the cabin.

Instead of db's in rear doors i figured i'll go with another set of momo's just to have them match.
Should i go with:
1. MMC6501 comps (no tweets, just the woofer) or
2. MMC650 2-way speaker (again no tweets, just the woofer) ???

From what i understand they are essentially the same woofers, no?

MacLeod

How about no rear speakers? They do more harm than good and you can spend the money on better things like Dynamat which you can never have enough of.

BMo

Anybody know where I can get a replacement? Mine did the exact same thing on the passenger side.

pentoncm

I have two spare MM crossovers that you can have. Crossover slopes should be the same but they have better internal components than the db ones.

Vital

MM's woofer is 2Ohms while db is 4Ohms which could be an issue when it comes to swapping x-overs.

pentoncm

the ohm load shouldn't matter at all. The MM woofer is 2 ohm, MM tweeter is 4 ohm. It averages out to 2.7 ohm. The crossover doesn't do anything but filter the frequencies.

BeefJerky

pentoncm wrote: »

the ohm load shouldn't matter at all. The MM woofer is 2 ohm, MM tweeter is 4 ohm. It averages out to 2.7 ohm. The crossover doesn't do anything but filter the frequencies.

Except that passive crossovers don't work like that. The crossover point of the individual low or high pass filter is dependent upon the impedance of the driver. Therefore, changing the driver's impedance will change the point that that driver is crossed over at.

And, in the case of 2+ order crossovers it gets even more complicated, and may cause further issues. So, no, I don't recommend swapping the DB crossover with the MM crossover.