SDA SRS 2.3 Crossover updates questions

Cramer1

Hello,

I am wanting to update the 2.3's I just purchased. They are in excellent shape and have all the original components. Now though, I would like to update the crossovers and replace the tweeters to make them satisfactory sounding to me.

They have the Sl2000 tweeters which require the RDO 198's I believe. I pulled a crossover yesterday and have looked at the schematic along with an old post for a parts list. It looks as though I need (4) 12uf caps, (2) 5.8 caps, (2) 4.4 caps, (2) 20uf caps, (2) 40 uf caps, and (2) 750 pf caps.

I do have a couple of questions on the caps. I have located all of them except the 750pf's. Does anyone know where they are located? I thought all capacitors were rated in uf. Where am I missing the 750pf? Also looking at Sonic craft's websight, they do not have some of the exact microfareds required. I should be able to piggy back to combine 2 caps to get the right microfareds, right?? How much of a plus or minus factor do you have if I cannot get the exact 4.4 for instance?? Also on Sonic crafts websight, they do not list a 750pf. I looked at an old post and someone stated that the "Audience" websight had them and they do. Does Sonic craft not make this capacitor?

Then the resistors, I have read that "Mills" is the desired choice and it looks as though this needs to be ordered from "Parts connection"?

I do have one binding post that is broken, on the 3.1Tl's that I purchased the posts have been upgraded, and if I am going to upgrade the 2.3's, I would like to replace these, where can they be purchased?

Is there any need to replace the inductors on the crossovers? There are (3) on each crossover.

Adding up the caps and resistors to get the values I need it added up to $325.00 approximately, is that right? I thought I read it was about $150.00 -$200.00 for parts, but this might not have been for the 2.3's. I just remember reading an old post a while back.

I know the 2.3's won't be the same as the TL version, but I hope to wake these units up. I have a set of upgraded 3.1 Tl's, and it is hard to listen to the non-upgraded 2.3's after hearing the others.

Any help on this is greatly appreciated.

zarrdoss

you need rdo 194's to replace the sl 2000's the 750pf you take off and don't replace as you are going to be using high quality caps. the 750pf are little tiny brown caps. you will need to replace the polyswitch with a new one or a .5 ohm resistor. caps can be divided into two and piggybacked, just try and divide as close in half as you can. and generally =/- 10% tolerance is acceptable. you can use sonics on the highs and Dayton's on the lows and save some money that way. Sonic has Mills resistors and you can divide those in two as well just be sure to wire those in series. Binding post can be bought at parts express.

Cramer1

I just thought of another question about my 2.3's. The item the crossover attached to. Is that an inductor also? Is there any upgrading that needs to be done to that??

zarrdoss

you can, some have and say the bass is better, I did my 2.3's and didnt do the inductors and it still made a huge difference.

Cramer1

Ok zarrdoss, now I have a couple of more questions on your reply. Looking at the crossover again. There are two little brown resistors on the crossover, but I only see one 750pf on the schematic. Do they both get eliminated?? When eliminating them, do you just use a jumper in place of the resistor then or does that just stay an open circuit?

Also, the polyswitches, what are they and where are they located? Is it better to replace them with a new polyswitch or to use the resistor?

zarrdoss

Attachment not found.

Red=750 pf

Blue= polyswitch

Cramer1

I now found both of the 750pf's on the schematic, missed the 2nd one before.

Cramer1

If I replace the polyswitch with another polyswitch, is there any ratings on them or do you just ask for a poly switch?

Is the polyswitch the Safteyguard RDE070A switch shown on the schematic off the positive binding post before the c3 and the c4 capacitors??

zarrdoss

leave them open 750pf, the polyswitch is a safety for your tweeters its designed to close when it gets to hot (to much power) and open when it cools down. only problem is over time it will start tripping at lower levels, and once tripped they affect sq, if you do decide to replace with new polys then I would get several and if you ever trip them just replace them. you use a .5 ohm resistor if you want to bypass the polyswitch and keep the original sound of the x-over but you don't have any protection. if you have good equipment and are sensible with your volume they're should not be a problem. tweeters have still fried even with polyswitches.

zarrdoss

Attachment not found.

this is what most polyswitches look like and yes there are values I think the one you need is this one

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=071-264

Cramer1

are all poly switches the same or are there different ratings for them?

zarrdoss

yes different ratings and the one I gave above is the one you need.

Toolfan66

Just use good quality caps and just take out the 750 and the polyswitch, and let's not forget that you use a good amp.

Toolfan66

Nether one of my SDA's have the poly's or the 750,s you don't need them as long as you use your head with the volume knob and good amplification. And yes I still crank these babys.

zarrdoss

I wonder if anyone has tried these in place of the poly?

http://www.parts-express.com/wizards/searchResults.cfm?srchExt=CAT&srchCat=568&CFID=24125807&CFTOKEN=79387575

Cramer1

Tool for life fan,

What do you think of the Dayton caps? They are a lot more affordable, that is for sure over the Sonics. Is it some kind of inductor that the crossover is mounted to or what is that?

zarrdoss

yes that is a inductor the x-over is on.

Cramer1

zarrdoss, you have been a great help, thanks so much, I might have more questions as I go along. Your 2.3's are not the TL version?? Did you upgrade your tweeters? Are you not quite pleased with them? I was trying to get my hands on the TL version. I hope that if I spend the money to upgrade the 2.3's that I will not be disappointed and still wish I had the Tl's. These were just fairly close and are in such great shape.

zarrdoss

Thank you! I have both2.3's and 2.3tl's and have upgraded both. tweets and x-overs, they both sound good, I have to say the tl's are a little more refined but I really cannot decide a clear cut winner and like them both. upgrade the tweets and x-overs and you will not be disappointed.

Cramer1

zarrdoss,

to get the 22.5 and the 6.2 ohms on the resistors, I need to use combinations to come up to those values. Is 22 ok for the 22.5 and is 6 ok for the 6.2. If not should they be split in half or close or can I use a 22 + .5 and a 6 + a .22? Those are the values mills makes.

zarrdoss

22 is OK you could use a 10 and a 12.5, 6 in place of a 6.2 is OK as well

http://www.parts-express.com/mills-crossover-resistors.cfm

Toolfan66

Kevin has had good results with the Daytons, what ever you use (sonic,clarity,Dayton) will be better then the 20 year old Mexico caps you have now, and with the RDO tweeters you will be good to go. Kevin (Zardoss) has you in the right direction it really comes down to how much money you want to spend.

Let's not forget to spike them.

Cramer1

ok, I am learning a lot here and spiking is not something I have looked into. I have heard in mentioned in posts.

Are we talking the floor spikes that came with the units? I have those original spikes, but I just have the feet on them and they are on carpet with concrete below the carpet and padding. Or is there something else meant in the spikes? What kind of result difference will I realize?

zarrdoss

with main speakers and subs its best to couple them with the structure they're in as much as possible. spikes go through your carpet and padding to help with the coupling and should make bass better and over all clarity.