Are Momo's for me?

Systems

i was running kicker comp vr's on a kenwood excelon x301T amp with a MA audio 1 farate cap.

the amp is supposed to be 800 watt max and 400 rms. i was running 12" kickers with 800 watt max 400 rms and they fried. My best friend and I would like to have 2 12" (per setup) Momos to replace what we have. (his setup exactly like mine.)

are momos to much for this setup?

Systems

http://www.lightav.com/car/kenwood/amps/ampsx.htm


this is the best i can do for specs on the ampl

sntnsupermen131

what are the specs on the amp?
sorry i tried to go to the link but it wouldnt let me
does it say what the rms is at 2 ohms?
if you want to run 2 12 in momos the rms needs to be something like 900-1200 rms x1 at 2 ohms
you said its 400watts rms...is that by 1 at 4 ohms or what?
b/c if its 400w x1 @ 4ohms then that means itll do like 800w x1 @ 2 ohms
so youd be better off with the 10s instead of the 12s
-Cody

C-Man

It's a Kenwood amp, and I know the biggest they have is the 801, and that does 800 @ 2 ohm. I'm gonna say if this is a mono, it's gonna do 400 @ 2 ohm, if it's ab, it's 400 @ 4 ohm bridged... without having any specs in front of me. If it's AB, you might be able to get away with 1 momo 10", but that's about it, if it's mono and I'm somewhat correct on the specs, you'd have to run 2 subs and there would be no chance. Like Cody said 10's might be more of an option for you but you'd probably want to get a bigger amp for any of the momo products.

But I do have a couple BRAND NEW/never used ever momo 10's I wanna get rid of pretty damn cheap! I'm still payin' for shipping too

Systems

* Key Features
* Maximum Output Power: 600 Watts x 1 Power Output at 4 Ohms, at 14.4V (20Hz-20kHz, 0.05% THD): 75 Watts x 2
* Power Ratings
* Bridged Power Output at 12V (1kHz, 0.5% THD): 200 Watts x 1 Bridged Power Output at 14.4V (1kHz, 0.5% THD): 300 Watts x 1 Maximum Output Power: 600 Watts x 1 Power Output at 2 Ohms, at 12V (1kHz, 0.5% THD): 100 Watts x 2 Power Output at 2 Ohms, at 14.4V (1kHz, 0.5% THD): 150 Watts x 2 Power Output at 4 Ohms, at 12V (20Hz-20kHz, 0.05% THD): 50 Watts x 2 Power Output at 4 Ohms, at 14.4V (20Hz-20kHz, 0.05% THD): 75 Watts x 2
* Power Supply Features
* 2-Ohm Stable Brushless Cooling Fan: Top-Mounted Copper-Shielded EE Core Transformer Glass Epoxy Printed Circuit Board Large Secondary Capacitors Large Toroidal Noise Suppression Filter Power Indicator: 3 Color, 4 LED Power Input Terminals: Gold-Plated, Large Screw-Type Power MOSFET Switching Power Supply PowerSlide
* Audio Features
* B.M.S. (Bass Management System) Balanced Isolation Circuit Glass Epoxy Printed Circuit Board Quiet Turn-On RCA Audio Inputs: Gold-Plated RCA Audio Outputs: Gold-Plated Selectable Balanced Line Input Selectable Infrasonic Filter Sigma Drive Speaker Connectors: Gold-Plated, Screw-Type Speaker Relay Protection Stereo, Mono, or Tri-Mode Operation Variable High-Pass Electronic Crossover: 50Hz - 200Hz, 12dB per Octave Variable Low-Pass Electronic Crossover: 50Hz - 200Hz, 18dB per Octave
* Width : 10-11/16" Height : 2-1/2" Depth : 10-5/8"

Systems

CORRECT AMP SPECS X301T

* Key Features
* Maximum Output Power: 800 Watts x 1 Power Output at 4 Ohms, at 14.4V (20Hz-20kHz, 0.05% THD): 100 Watts x 2
* Power Ratings
* Bridged Power Output at 12V (1kHz, 0.5% THD): 300 Watts x 1 Bridged Power Output at 14.4V (1kHz, 0.5% THD): 400 Watts x 1 Maximum Output Power: 800 Watts x 1 Power Output at 2 Ohms, at 12V (1kHz, 0.5% THD): 150 Watts x 2 Power Output at 2 Ohms, at 14.4V (1kHz, 0.5% THD): 200 Watts x 2 Power Output at 4 Ohms, at 12V (20Hz-20kHz, 0.05% THD): 75 Watts x 2 Power Output at 4 Ohms, at 14.4V (20Hz-20kHz, 0.05% THD): 100 Watts x 2
* Power Supply Features
* 2-Ohm Stable Brushless Cooling Fan: Top-Mounted Copper-Shielded EE Core Transformer: 2 Glass Epoxy Printed Circuit Board Large Secondary Capacitors Large Toroidal Noise Suppression Filter Power Indicator: 3 Color, 4 LED Power Input Terminals: Gold-Plated, Large Screw-Type Power MOSFET Switching Power Supply PowerSlide
* Audio Features
* B.M.S. (Bass Management System) Balanced Isolation Circuit Glass Epoxy Printed Circuit Board Quiet Turn-On RCA Audio Inputs: Gold-Plated RCA Audio Outputs: Gold-Plated Selectable Infrasonic Filter Sigma Drive Speaker Connectors: Gold-Plated, Screw-Type Speaker Relay Protection Stereo, Mono, or Tri-Mode Operation Variable High-Pass Electronic Crossover: 50Hz - 200Hz, 12dB per Octave Variable Low-Pass Electronic Crossover: 50Hz - 200Hz, 18dB per Octave
* Dimensions and Weight
* Width : 10-11/16" Height : 2-1/2" Depth : 11-13/16"

C-Man

Wow, I called that one perfectly. I'd think you'd only be able to do one 10 off that amp. Maybe be able to swing two 10's until you could buy a bigger amp.

Still for sale..........

Systems

i'm going to kill my firend.....the store wanted me to get the bigger amp.......and before i had trouble with my subs he toyed with some settings on the amp.....

any suggestions on what subs i should get....best set of 12" for that amp.....your help has been awsome!!

PoweredByDodge

never listen to friends -- if they knew what they were doing, their car would sound like the best thing since sliced italian bread.

since it doesn't - listen to us... all we do is sit in the damn momo forum all day and smoke Kool's.

for my official answer to this question "yes one momo 10 can run off that amp"

my unofficial --> "you've got to be fkin jerkin my chicken, a 400watt KW amp is overrated by 50 watts and will probably choke up on a momo 10".

far as what you should get -- two 200 watt 12's wouldn't be bad...

to please the polk customer service clan, my official answer will be "two single 8 ohm or dual 4 ohm coil GNX 12" subs"

my unofficial answer --- " find some old polk EXII 8 ohm 12's ... or two alpine type S dual 4 ohm coil 12's" -- i'd lean more toward the type S -- pioneer makes a dual 4 ohm coil 12 thats like 45 bucks at www.ikesound.com -- for 45 bucks it sounds amazing... compared to the type S it sounds like dog crap. for that power i'd normally say a JBL GT120 -- since htat is my absolute favorite 200 watt "little" sub... it gets loud easy, handles the power well, has a nice rigid cone that doesn't bend, and slams like a mother while remaining very true to the music. but they only come in single 4 ohm coil configurations (i ran into the same problem when rebuidling my girlfriend's car -- she had a 460 watt amp that did its power at 4 ohms... so i had to dig up two 8 ohm subs... ended up buying polk DX 10-8's -- since i love the dx's and find them to be a pretty damn good little sub... now with 325 on each of them in my pickup they sounded fabulous... utterly fabulous... with only 230 each in her car, they sound "just ok" -- its all about power... i'd say go with DX12-8's but you need at least 250 man -- i mean she's killin me with only 230 ... so 175 - 200 per sub aint gonna cut it). again i say -- go alpine type S -- it'll sound clear, good, and pretty loud.

Systems

Thanks for all the advice...i couldn't have asked for more helpfull advice ever. i learned a lot through this all and that's pry a good think. thanks again for all the great advice...now i must go kill someone

Systems

i've looked at the type-S and think that's the way to go.....do you think they will sound all around better and go louder than the underpowered comp vr's i was running....they were 400 rms and 800 max watts 8 ohms

C-Man

IMO, Kicker subs will get loud, but they won't sound all that good doing so. You'll be much happier with Type-S.

PoweredByDodge

little tid bit of info regarding "how loud" a particular sub can get with relation to another.

... two comp VR 12's, with their rated rms or better (@ least 350) will be distinctly louder than type S with full RMS.

... two comp VR 12's with half power will be distinctly LESS loud / clear / accurate than two type S with full RMS.

reason being is that woofers are set up according to their construction. so 200 watts into sub A is not going to be as loud as 200 watts into sub B unless subwoofers A and B are built with some similarity.

the cone of the comp VR (and any other respectable 400 watt sub) is of a medium "heavyness". when you've got enough power for it, that extra mass is a good thing... think about a sledge hammer slamming down on a table... its louder and more forceful than a normal hammer.

but is half the rms enough power to even lift the sledge hammer off the floor so as that it can slam down on ? maybe, but I don't think so.

a lighter cone allows for the sub to function to its full potention, move linearly with accuracy to the tone of hte music, sound rich and full, and slam respectably.

get the idea?

on a side note -- have you thought about keeping the comp VR's and instead of spending money on new subs, instead, spend money on a bigger, more powerful amp to push them with? a rockford punch 700S or power 750S would make a WORLD of difference (350 to 375 per sub instead of 200). and i think the 700S is on sale at sounddomain for around $250. ... just a thought.

Systems

i would but the comp vr's are not working the voice coils are fried....i heard a pop one night and the one sub has no sound and the other is putting out half what it used to.. plus i'm poor lol i can't afford new subs and amp

Systems

visited the kicker/alpine store i liked what i saw and heard even though when i asked how much power they were giving the subs they told me 500 a peice. they want me to get one kicker comp vr in a kicker designed ported box... they said it would be just as good as having two kickers......i didn't do anything right now and i have the alpine type-s on hold till sat. (when i get paid!!). i don't think i'm going to believe what they say. since they were overpowering everything when they were demoing and screwed me with my setup for my previous system.

Type-S will do it for me

PoweredByDodge

nothin sounds as good in your car as it does in the show room... lots of reasons for that (one being that the showroom is a nice enclosed area with no noise).

ported VR's are fine -- but like u said -- 500++ is what u need to make them sound the way u want -- in addition, putting that much power on a kicker voice coil isn't going to make that sub last very long -- that's abuse for those subs.

for thepower you're running, i'm glad you decided the type S --- cone area is important as well... and two subs with 200 each in sealed boxes will most likely sound as loud and of slightly better qualiy than a single sub being overdriven in a ported box.

hell -- u know u can always build a ported boxes for the type S -- they'd get as loud as anything else if u did that.

how much are they charging you for two dual 4 ohm 12's ?

C-Man

I had two Type-S 10's in a sealed box behind the seat of my truck running off of a V-12 MRV-T707???... Can't remember the exact specs on the amp, but it was roughly what you're running now and it slammed like crazy. Hit 141, which is pretty good for only about 400 watts in a single cab truck.

PoweredByDodge

my favorite bass setup ever is still the two polk DX 10's off the mtx original 500D -- amp came outa the box rated around mid 7's @ 12.5v -- when they said the original 500D did almost a 1kw, they weren't kidding. I was getting low 800's with the car running.

i had the seat in a standard cab 88 pickup jammed so far forward i was takign a gut fulla steering wheel -- thank god i was a whole lot slimmer and in better shape at the time or else i'd need a chiropractor and the jaws of life to get me outa the thing.

whole thing was heavy gauge metal inside the cabin -- solid rear window... so with not a lot of cabin room, and well beyond the RMS of the sub... i was in utter bliss when it came up 143 and change.

to give perspective -- i put the exact same subs and the exact same amp in my 99 xcab when i first got it -- sounded like dog **** and id be surprised if it even did 130 -- i mean it was MUDDY. never downfire subs under a back seat in a plastic POS box with less clearnance for the subs than there is exursion distance.

far as that T707 -- is that the little brother of the 1507 ?? if so -- I completely understand why you put up such good numbers... those amps are absolutely amazing.

C-Man

It was a sweet amp. The 757 was just above it and below the 1507, but I upgraded directly from the 707 to the 1507... lol. Great amp. Damn near the same size as my truck!

Systems

I probably over paid i got them for 120 each. but i couldn't wait lol....

my amp has a "bass management system" on it that can boost the bass by 6dbs whould that be a bad thing to use.....cause distortion and so on or can the speakers handle pretty much whatever this amp can handle?......and how can i tell distortion? and i've heard about "gain" and i have no clue?

lol wow that's a lot of questions

PoweredByDodge

ehh -- u paid retail -- 10 bucks less than crutchfield... so that's not a bad price -- could have ebayed them for 25 bucks less each but then you're dealing with ebay instead of a store and u gotta wait for it in the mail and blah blah blah.

far as the bass boost -- you how you've got bass / trebble / balance / fade on your head unit? -- well as long as you bass isnt above half .... and your loudness button -- hopefully you have either an adjustable one or something -- if its adjustable, make sure its not over 1/3..otherwise -- off. in this situation, u can use your bass boost on the amp --- if you have yoru loudness jacked or your bass on the head jacked, then i would not use the additional boost on the amp (since the head already has boosted that region enough). i think u get teh idea.

as far as gain-- your head unit is going to have a rated output for the preamp line --- either 2 volts or 4 volts... your amp is going to have an input sensitivity -- either 4 v or 8 v.

assuming the kenwood amp has a 4 v input sensitivity and your head unit is a 2 volt out -- set your gain to about 66%

4v input sensitivityand 4 volt output -- set your gain to about 33%

8v input sensitivity and 2 volt output -- set your gain to 80%

8v input sensitivity and 4 volt output -- set yoru gain to 66%

these are rough numbers but they're a good place to start

the best way to set your gain is to start at a point a little below which ever of these numbers is appropriate for your equipment --- then turn your volume on yoru head unit up to the loudest that you'll listen to it at (usually 2/3)... now listen to your subs -- are they distorting? are they underpowered? if they're too quiet, turn up the gain a little until either 1) your happy with them or 2) they start to **** or distort... if they're distorting.. turn them down a bit.

Systems

i have it all set up now the gain is set and went with the +6 boost on the amp have the loud button off and the bass on the head unit is 0 on a scale of -8 to 8. the subs didn't distort when i cranked the volume almost all the way up with the gain at zero and they started to **** just above 33%. they sound great. much more musical than what i had. all is good in my world...lol thanks again for alll your help

PoweredByDodge

no problem dude -- glad to hear you're happy