Replacing my lsi15s' brass jumpers

DMara
DMara Posts: 1,434
edited March 2010 in Basic Hookup/Wiring Questions
Will the Audioquest PSC bi-wire jumpers (http://www.musicdirect.com/product/72877) a good choice to replace the lsi15s' brass jumpers? Or I only need to strip any 12AWG speaker cable to serve that purpose?
Gears shared to both living room & bedroom:
Integra DHC-80.3 / Oppo BDP-105 / DirecTV HR24 DVR /APC S15blk PC-UPS
Living room:
LSiM707's / LSiM706c / LSiM702 F/X's / dual JL Audio Fathom F113's / Parasound Halo A51 / Panasonic 65" TC-P65VT50
Bedroom:
Usher Dancer Mini 2 Diamond DMD's / Logitech SB Touch / W4S STP-SE / W4S DAC-2 / W4S ST-1000 / Samsung 52" LN52B750
Other rooms:
Audioengine AP4's / GLOW Audio Sub One / audio-gd NFB-3 DAC / Audioengine N22
audio-gd NFB-10.2 / Denon AH-D7000
Post edited by DMara on
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Comments

  • steveinaz
    steveinaz Posts: 19,538
    edited March 2010
    12awg jumpers should be fine. You can even get creative and buy bananas and shrink tubing to make them look real nice, I'll post a pic this evening of a set I made years ago...
    Source: Bluesound Node 2i - Preamp/DAC: Benchmark DAC2 DX - Amp: Parasound Halo A21 - Speakers: MartinLogan Motion 60XTi - Shop Rig: Yamaha A-S501 Integrated - Shop Spkrs: Elac Debut 2.0 B5.2
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  • steveinaz
    steveinaz Posts: 19,538
    edited March 2010
    Here's the pic of the set I made: http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showpost.php?p=294447&postcount=1
    Source: Bluesound Node 2i - Preamp/DAC: Benchmark DAC2 DX - Amp: Parasound Halo A21 - Speakers: MartinLogan Motion 60XTi - Shop Rig: Yamaha A-S501 Integrated - Shop Spkrs: Elac Debut 2.0 B5.2
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  • DMara
    DMara Posts: 1,434
    edited March 2010
    steveinaz wrote: »
    Here's the pic of the set I made: http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showpost.php?p=294447&postcount=1

    Wow, that looks great! Thanks, guys.
    Gears shared to both living room & bedroom:
    Integra DHC-80.3 / Oppo BDP-105 / DirecTV HR24 DVR /APC S15blk PC-UPS
    Living room:
    LSiM707's / LSiM706c / LSiM702 F/X's / dual JL Audio Fathom F113's / Parasound Halo A51 / Panasonic 65" TC-P65VT50
    Bedroom:
    Usher Dancer Mini 2 Diamond DMD's / Logitech SB Touch / W4S STP-SE / W4S DAC-2 / W4S ST-1000 / Samsung 52" LN52B750
    Other rooms:
    Audioengine AP4's / GLOW Audio Sub One / audio-gd NFB-3 DAC / Audioengine N22
    audio-gd NFB-10.2 / Denon AH-D7000
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  • nadams
    nadams Posts: 5,877
    edited March 2010
    steveinaz wrote: »
    Here's the pic of the set I made: http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showpost.php?p=294447&postcount=1

    Assuming you were using spades for the main speaker wires?
    Ludicrous gibs!
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  • ben62670
    ben62670 Posts: 15,969
    edited March 2010
    Take the plates out if you are using jumpers.
    Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
    Thanks
    Ben
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  • curved
    curved Posts: 664
    edited March 2010
    ben62670 wrote: »
    Take the plates out if you are using jumpers.

    Agreed
    Living Room:....................[HTML] [/HTML] Zone 2 (Workout Room):
    AVR - Yamaha RX-V757......JBL 4312 Pro Monitors
    Pre - Nak CA-5
    AMP - Adcom 555 (Main)
    Main - Polk RTI8**/RTiA5
    AMP - Adcom 545II (Center)
    Center - Polk CSiA4**
    Sub - Snell Basis 300:p......Zone 3 (Outside)
    CD - Yamaha CDC-555.......Def Tech AW5500
    TV - Pani TH-42PZ80U
    BR - LG BD390
    Monster HTS1600 Power Center
    Dedicated Circuit - (2) 20amp, (1) 15amp
    Ben's IC, Canare 4S11
    **Dayton and Sonicap Caps with Mills Resistors**
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  • wutadumsn23
    wutadumsn23 Posts: 3,702
    edited March 2010
    steveinaz wrote: »
    Here's the pic of the set I made: http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showpost.php?p=294447&postcount=1

    Dang Steve, those things are sweet looking, how's about you sell me a pair? LOL.

    -Jeff
    HT Rig
    Receiver- Onkyo TX-SR806
    Mains- Polk Audio Monitor 70
    Center- Polk Audio CS2
    Surrounds- Polk Audio TSi 500's :D
    Sub- Polk Audio PSW125
    Retired- Polk Audio Monitor 40's
    T.V.- 60" Sony SXRD KDS-60A2000 LCoS
    Blu-Ray- 80 GB PS3


    2 CH rig (in progress)
    Polk Audio Monitor 10A's :cool:

    It's not that I'm insensitive, I just don't care.. :D
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  • steveinaz
    steveinaz Posts: 19,538
    edited March 2010
    They just took about $20 bucks, and 30-45 minutes to make.
    Source: Bluesound Node 2i - Preamp/DAC: Benchmark DAC2 DX - Amp: Parasound Halo A21 - Speakers: MartinLogan Motion 60XTi - Shop Rig: Yamaha A-S501 Integrated - Shop Spkrs: Elac Debut 2.0 B5.2
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  • comfortablycurt
    comfortablycurt Posts: 6,745
    edited March 2010
    BlueFox wrote: »
    I left the jumpers on, and also added 12 gauge jumpers.

    Why? The whole point of adding the speaker wire in place of the jumpers, is that the speaker wire is higher quality. Leaving the stock jumpers in place kind of negates this upgrade IMO.
    The nirvana inducer-
    APC H10 Power Conditioner
    Marantz UD5005 universal player
    Parasound Halo P5 preamp
    Parasound HCA-1200II power amp
    PolkAudio LSi9's/PolkAudio SDA 2A's/PolkAudio Monitor 7A's
    Audioquest Speaker Cables and IC's
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  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited March 2010
    I agree, why leave that junk in the signal path?
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
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  • mewisemagic
    mewisemagic Posts: 194
    edited March 2010
    why does'nt polk just use the wires if the sound is better than the straps? could not cost that much more
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  • comfortablycurt
    comfortablycurt Posts: 6,745
    edited March 2010
    mewisemagic wrote: »
    why does'nt polk just use the wires if the sound is better than the straps? could not cost that much more

    For one, the stock jumpers give the speakers a slightly more "finished" look. A lot of people wouldn't want big thick wires sticking out of the back of their speakers. They would also be in the way on bookshelves that are being wall mounted.
    The nirvana inducer-
    APC H10 Power Conditioner
    Marantz UD5005 universal player
    Parasound Halo P5 preamp
    Parasound HCA-1200II power amp
    PolkAudio LSi9's/PolkAudio SDA 2A's/PolkAudio Monitor 7A's
    Audioquest Speaker Cables and IC's
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  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited March 2010
    Lulz!
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
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  • hearingimpared
    hearingimpared Posts: 21,136
    edited March 2010
    I've used Radio Shack 12 ga pure stranded copper wire for jumpers when I needed them and they worked just fine. The stock jumper are lousy especially the brass plates. Brass is a great damper but for electrical conductivity it is really bad.

    BlueFox, I don't get your logic and I know ohms law.
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  • Zitro
    Zitro Posts: 864
    edited March 2010
    Hmm, I still have the brass plates in the LSi7's...maybe I should look into replacing them if you guys say it makes that much of a difference.
    - Jeremy

    Amps: Jolida FX-10, NAD 3045, NAD C320BEE, Sansui G-9700
    Speakers: Polk Monitor 7A's, KEF Reference 104aB
    Sources: ProJect Debut Carbon, Sonos streaming FLAC
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  • hearingimpared
    hearingimpared Posts: 21,136
    edited March 2010
    Zitro wrote: »
    Hmm, I still have the brass plates in the LSi7's...maybe I should look into replacing them if you guys say it makes that much of a difference.

    It may not make a dramatic improvement but anything is better than brass for jumpers.
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  • Zitro
    Zitro Posts: 864
    edited March 2010
    hearingimpared wrote: »
    It may not make a dramatic improvement but anything is better than brass for jumpers.

    I understand why they might use a metal plate over cable, but why make it of brass if brass isn't very conductive?
    - Jeremy

    Amps: Jolida FX-10, NAD 3045, NAD C320BEE, Sansui G-9700
    Speakers: Polk Monitor 7A's, KEF Reference 104aB
    Sources: ProJect Debut Carbon, Sonos streaming FLAC
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  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited March 2010
    You would be surprised how many items are made of brass are in the signal path. The less, the better though.
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
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  • hearingimpared
    hearingimpared Posts: 21,136
    edited March 2010
    Face wrote: »
    You would be surprised how many items are made of brass are in the signal path. The less, the better though.

    Yep! and it used to be very inexpensive.

    However the Chinese demand for brass has driven the price up considerably. When I went to price out the cost of remanufacturing my clamp I almost fell out of my chair when I saw how much brass has jumped in price. It is one the best dampers but it does really suck as a conductor.

    Just a check of the folks who manufacture and sell brass spikes and footers will show the dramatic increase.
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  • Jer.War
    Jer.War Posts: 180
    edited March 2010
    Given the "choice" of paths, electricity (rather current) will take the path of least resistance.... Just like people electricity is lazy.
    [The Ever-Evolving System

    LSI15's (PNF Symphony cabels, modded X-Over and subs), LSIC, LSI7's, Rega Apollo CDP (PNF ICON ICs, modified PS cct.), Yamaha RXV-1700 w/ ipod dock, B&K REF200.2 (fronts) Samsung BDP-1600, XBOX360, Patriot Box Office Media Player, 42" Samsung LCD.
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  • ben62670
    ben62670 Posts: 15,969
    edited March 2010
    I want brass speaker wire:rolleyes:
    Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
    Thanks
    Ben
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  • hearingimpared
    hearingimpared Posts: 21,136
    edited March 2010
    BlueFox wrote: »
    I=E/R 'R' goes down, 'I' goes up. In this case the difference might be small, but on an atomic level it is large. Perhaps I will remove the jumpers next time I do a room rewire, but I certainly have no complaints about the sound at this time.

    However, I suspect the recent speaker wire, and analog IC, upgrade has made a much more noticible improvement in sound quality than I would notice by removing the brass jumpers.
    Jer.War wrote: »
    Given the "choice" of paths, electricity (rather current) will take the path of least resistance.... Just like people electricity is lazy.

    This is what I was getting at BF which makes the brass jumpers a moot point, no?
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  • wutadumsn23
    wutadumsn23 Posts: 3,702
    edited March 2010
    steveinaz wrote: »
    They just took about $20 bucks, and 30-45 minutes to make.

    The check will be in the mail Steve, now get crackin, lol.

    -Jeff
    HT Rig
    Receiver- Onkyo TX-SR806
    Mains- Polk Audio Monitor 70
    Center- Polk Audio CS2
    Surrounds- Polk Audio TSi 500's :D
    Sub- Polk Audio PSW125
    Retired- Polk Audio Monitor 40's
    T.V.- 60" Sony SXRD KDS-60A2000 LCoS
    Blu-Ray- 80 GB PS3


    2 CH rig (in progress)
    Polk Audio Monitor 10A's :cool:

    It's not that I'm insensitive, I just don't care.. :D
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter