BiWiring

brendonvodden
brendonvodden Posts: 11
edited March 2010 in Speakers
Finally got all my components of my HT system setup. Decided after using no name brand 14 gauge speaker wire for the mains, I would try this exspensive biwire cable cost me $100 for 25 feet. Removed the jumpers from my two mains (Paradigm Studio 100 and Center CC-690) What a pain in the *** to get to sets of wire in the binding post on the back on the reciever. After fighting with this for over half an hour fired up my receiver put in some of my favorite cd's and WOW I noticed no difference at all.... What crock biwiring is, just a marketing scheme to sell exspensive wire.
Post edited by brendonvodden on
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Comments

  • vc69
    vc69 Posts: 2,500
    edited March 2010
    Bi-wiring has it's place. Usually in a higher-end setup is where you will hear a noticeable difference. But it is really just a matter of preference. I prefer my bi-wire cable for 2-channel.
    -Kevin
    HT: Philips 52PFL7432D 52" LCD 1080p / Onkyo TX-SR 606 / Oppo BDP-83 SE / Comcast cable. (all HDMI)B&W 801 - Front, Polk CS350 LS - Center, Polk LS90 - Rear
    2 Channel:
    Oppo BDP-83 SE
    Squeezebox Touch
    Muscial Fidelity M1 DAC
    VTL 2.5
    McIntosh 2205 (refurbed)
    B&W 801's
    Transparent IC's
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  • virtualdean
    virtualdean Posts: 286
    edited March 2010
    I agree, biwiring might, maybe, might have an effect if there is something wrong with your crossovers...I think its high end snake oil myself.
    Biamping on the other hand...
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  • virtualdean
    virtualdean Posts: 286
    edited March 2010
    "Carver TFM-35x (Yes, I know. I need an amp.)"

    What do you mean? Before I bought the Sunfire I almost bought a '35x
    some bastich beat me out by $2.50 on ebay in the last minute. :(
    I intended to get it rebuilt to factory specs at katie helms carver shop in Wash.
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  • vc69
    vc69 Posts: 2,500
    edited March 2010
    virtualdean wrote: »
    "Carver TFM-35x (Yes, I know. I need an amp.)"

    What do you mean? Before I bought the Sunfire I almost bought a '35x
    some bastich beat me out by $2.50 on ebay in the last minute. :(
    I intended to get it rebuilt to factory specs at katie helms carver shop in Wash.

    Though it serves me well, I am looking for a little bit "more".

    I am working toward a VTL st150.
    -Kevin
    HT: Philips 52PFL7432D 52" LCD 1080p / Onkyo TX-SR 606 / Oppo BDP-83 SE / Comcast cable. (all HDMI)B&W 801 - Front, Polk CS350 LS - Center, Polk LS90 - Rear
    2 Channel:
    Oppo BDP-83 SE
    Squeezebox Touch
    Muscial Fidelity M1 DAC
    VTL 2.5
    McIntosh 2205 (refurbed)
    B&W 801's
    Transparent IC's
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  • tonyb
    tonyb Posts: 33,020
    edited March 2010
    I like the fact that you think 100 bucks for 25 ft of cable is "expensive".
    HT SYSTEM-
    Sony 850c 4k
    Pioneer elite vhx 21
    Sony 4k BRP
    SVS SB-2000
    Polk Sig. 20's
    Polk FX500 surrounds

    Cables-
    Acoustic zen Satori speaker cables
    Acoustic zen Matrix 2 IC's
    Wireworld eclipse 7 ic's
    Audio metallurgy ga-o digital cable

    Kitchen

    Sonos zp90
    Grant Fidelity tube dac
    B&k 1420
    lsi 9's
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  • Jetmaker737
    Jetmaker737 Posts: 1,054
    edited March 2010
    tonyb wrote: »
    I like the fact that you think 100 bucks for 25 ft of cable is "expensive".

    Exactly.
    SystemLuxman L-590AXII Integrated Amplifier|KEF Reference 1 Loudspeakers|PS Audio Directream Jr|Sansui TU-9900 Tuner|TEAC A-6100 RtR|Nakamichi RX-202 Cassette
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  • Mon40CSMM10
    Mon40CSMM10 Posts: 161
    edited March 2010
    The only real benefit I saw from bi-wiring the front mains was that the AVR actually ran that much noticeably cooler vs. when the speakers were single wired and using the brass jumpers.

    Prior to bi-wiring, the vent of the receiver would get hot enough to be uncomfortable to leave a hand on the vent after a few hours of use. After bi-wiring, the receiver vent was still quite warm but didn't get uncomfortably hot.

    Not using high end speaker cable either. Just using 16 gauge Royal Cable for the woofers (lower binding posts) and 18 gauge Royal Cable for the tweeters (upper binding posts).
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  • dl090465
    dl090465 Posts: 212
    edited March 2010
    i was going to go the bi wore route, but i am glad i didn't as i really don't think it could sound any better...
    Room 1:
    ONKYO TX-SR608
    Polk Complete RT 5000 System
    Polk RT3000p's Front
    Polk CS1000p Center
    Polk FX 1000's Rear


    Room 2:
    ONKYO TX-SR608
    Polk RT2000's Front Someone Please Sell Me Some RT3000 so I can have a second RT5000 setup !!!!
    Polk CS1000p Center
    Polk FX1000's Rear
    Polk PSW 120 front
    Polk PSW 505 rear
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  • hearingimpared
    hearingimpared Posts: 21,136
    edited March 2010
    MIT biwire cables actually have network boxes for the high freqs and the lows freqs which makes a huge sonic difference. I've never tried biwiring with just plain old speaker wire. I would imagine it would be a exercise in futility. BTW $100 for 25' of cable is rather cheap.


    I have biamp'd with Monster Phase Aligned Time Coherent wire and the result was really nice.
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