SDA SRS 2.3TL x-over rebuild.
zarrdoss
Posts: 2,562
I have had my 2.3tl's for just about a year now and refinished the outside completely replaced a few bad drivers and put RDO 198's in them. I have wanted to do a x-over rebuild but unfortunately due to money it did not look like it was going to happen. I have had a Parts express credit of $100 for a while and finally decided "what the hell" and just do it with all Dayton 1% caps and Dayton audio grade resistors. I paid 14 bucks out of pocket for the entire project, $114 total.
I got a 10ohm and 12.5ohm 10watt resistor in series to replace the 22.5 ohm. I got a 8.2 to replace the 4.4/4.2 combo, a 5.6 to replace the 5.8, and two 8.2's to replace the 12/4.2 on the high end.
On the low end I got a 10 and a 8.2 to replace the 12/5.8 and a a 12 and 15 to replace the 27.
I got one rebuilt in about an hour and a half, the second in about 30 minutes. I zip tied the larger caps replacing the 27 and also the resistors.
The results were good when I got it back together and now after about 30 hrs is simply amazing, highs are clearer, refined, mids are more detailed and bass response is improved. Its like getting into SDA's all over again, I can hear things that I did not hear before and just overall better:D.
If there is anyone wanting to upgrade but does not have the money for Sonic caps this is a definite cheaper alternative or even a mix of the two but I am extremely impressed by these Dayton's. If these get better sounding then I can hardly wait, I will hot glue when I'm 100% on this but pretty sure nothing is going anywhere, and I can find my damn glue and gun. Enough jabbering here is some before and after pics.
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I got a 10ohm and 12.5ohm 10watt resistor in series to replace the 22.5 ohm. I got a 8.2 to replace the 4.4/4.2 combo, a 5.6 to replace the 5.8, and two 8.2's to replace the 12/4.2 on the high end.
On the low end I got a 10 and a 8.2 to replace the 12/5.8 and a a 12 and 15 to replace the 27.
I got one rebuilt in about an hour and a half, the second in about 30 minutes. I zip tied the larger caps replacing the 27 and also the resistors.
The results were good when I got it back together and now after about 30 hrs is simply amazing, highs are clearer, refined, mids are more detailed and bass response is improved. Its like getting into SDA's all over again, I can hear things that I did not hear before and just overall better:D.
If there is anyone wanting to upgrade but does not have the money for Sonic caps this is a definite cheaper alternative or even a mix of the two but I am extremely impressed by these Dayton's. If these get better sounding then I can hardly wait, I will hot glue when I'm 100% on this but pretty sure nothing is going anywhere, and I can find my damn glue and gun. Enough jabbering here is some before and after pics.
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Post edited by zarrdoss on
Comments
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Nice bro!!! You need to keep in touch.Polk Audio SDA 2.3tl Fully Hot Rodded. 😎
SVS SB16 X2
Cary SLP-05/Ultimate Upgrade.
Cary SA-500.1 ES Amps
Cary DMS 800PV Network
OPPO UDP 205/ModWright Modification
VPI Scout TT / Dynavector 20x2
Jolida JD9 Fully Modified
VPI MW-1 Cyclone RCM
MIT Shotgun 3 cables throughout / Except TT, and PC’s -
Thanks Larry! I bet you cant wait to tear into your 1c's
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Everything should be here next week. Your speakers will keep sounding better,even in 6 months you will keep hearing a difference.
You need to come down and hear mine again you will be blown away.Polk Audio SDA 2.3tl Fully Hot Rodded. 😎
SVS SB16 X2
Cary SLP-05/Ultimate Upgrade.
Cary SA-500.1 ES Amps
Cary DMS 800PV Network
OPPO UDP 205/ModWright Modification
VPI Scout TT / Dynavector 20x2
Jolida JD9 Fully Modified
VPI MW-1 Cyclone RCM
MIT Shotgun 3 cables throughout / Except TT, and PC’s -
Wait till the lower end opens up.Polk Audio SDA 2.3tl Fully Hot Rodded. 😎
SVS SB16 X2
Cary SLP-05/Ultimate Upgrade.
Cary SA-500.1 ES Amps
Cary DMS 800PV Network
OPPO UDP 205/ModWright Modification
VPI Scout TT / Dynavector 20x2
Jolida JD9 Fully Modified
VPI MW-1 Cyclone RCM
MIT Shotgun 3 cables throughout / Except TT, and PC’s -
the highs sounded better right away mids and lows were lacking. I just left it playing and when i got home they definitely sounded better. I am just going keep them playing 24/7 for a few days.
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Nice job. Have you considered replacing the polyswitch with a jumper or ideally with a resistor?SDA SRS 2.3TL's
Silk Audio MS-90-BT integrated tube amp
Yaqin MS-20L integrated tube amp
SDA 2B TL's -
michaeljhsda2 wrote: »Nice job. Have you considered replacing the polyswitch with a jumper or ideally with a resistor?
thank you, I did replace those with new ones from Polk, if they ever give me trouble I will replace with a 5 ohm resistor. -
Hmmm....seems Polk was running short of the proper values when they made your crossovers.
Just for the record, the quantities and values per crossover should be as follows;
Resistors -
(2) 22.5 ohm
Caps -
(1) 5.8uF
(1) 8uF
(1) 16uF
(1) 18uF
(1) 27uF
Throw the (2) 750pF silver mica caps away.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Just noticed that you replaced the cement blocks resistors with cement block resistors. I would strongly suggest you use Mills resistors, they are much better than the cement types.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Hmmm....seems Polk was running short of the proper values when they made your crossovers.
Just for the record, the quantities and values per crossover should be as follows;
Resistors -
(2) 22.5 ohm
Caps -
(1) 5.8uF
(1) 8uF
(1) 16uF
(1) 18uF
(1) 27uF
Throw the (2) 750pF silver mica caps away.
Thats what I thought when I got them apart, I was like WTF? I tried to match the values you posted above as close as possible and might order some mills on my next PE order and put them in when I glue them. -
I was just being factual. The values used by Polk and you are all within tolerance, so no worries really.
Definitely get the Mills.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk