Bi-Amping - if you don't already have cables

xrapidx
xrapidx Posts: 73
Hi Guys

A friend of mine is about to get the same receiver (Onkyo TX-NR807) and speakers (RTi A9s) as myself.... he doesn't have a single cable...

Would it be worth it bi-amping considering he needs to get new cables?

It'll be interesting for me anyway, to hear the difference.

Also, can someone explain to me how banana plugs work with regards to Polk Speakers, does it just plug in the back, and then in the receiver? I've never used them before - and am considering adding them to my cables.

Thanks
Post edited by xrapidx on

Comments

  • hearingimpared
    hearingimpared Posts: 21,136
    edited February 2010
    xrapidx wrote: »
    Hi Guys

    A friend of mine is about to get the same receiver (Onkyo TX-NR807) and speakers (RTi A9s) as myself.... he doesn't have a single cable...

    Would it be worth it bi-amping considering he needs to get new cables?

    It'll be interesting for me anyway, to hear the difference.

    Some say yes, but considering you would be using the back channels which use the same power supply, IMHO no. True bi-amping would use a separate amplifier for either the highs or the lows but you never know until you try it.
    xrapidx wrote: »
    Also, can someone explain to me how banana plugs work with regards to Polk Speakers, does it just plug in the back, and then in the receiver? I've never used them before - and am considering adding them to my cables.

    Thanks

    Bananas plug directly into the big hole at the rear of the posts and are more convenient to use especially if you are going to be doing a lot of swapping out. They are sonically as good as using bare wires or spades IMHO.
  • xrapidx
    xrapidx Posts: 73
    edited February 2010
    Thanks - How do I get to the holes? I read the manual - and it says to pry the current connector out, is that correct?

    W.r.t. Bi-amping is it worth getting bi-amping cables now, instead of normal cables and then adding the amp later? Because the cables are imported, it'll basically cost the same to get bi-amping cables as it would normal cables - so the question really is if its a worthwhile thing to do.
  • hearingimpared
    hearingimpared Posts: 21,136
    edited February 2010
    xrapidx wrote: »
    Thanks - How do I get to the holes? I read the manual - and it says to pry the current connector out, is that correct?

    Isn't it a five way binding post? If so, you simply plug the banana into the hole. I don't know about prying connectors out, as I've never heard of this before.
    xrapidx wrote: »
    W.r.t. Bi-amping is it worth getting bi-amping cables now, instead of normal cables and then adding the amp later? Because the cables are imported, it'll basically cost the same to get bi-amping cables as it would normal cables - so the question really is if its a worthwhile thing to do.

    Can you post a link to show the "bi-amping cables?" When I have done bi-amping I used four sets of speaker cables, two for each speaker.

    As far as it being worthwhile, I say yes if you are going to use an outboard amp. As far as bi-amping from the receiver as I said there are varying opinions on it.
  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,329
    edited February 2010
    Unscrew the red and black caps off,
    Then just pop off the little red and black buttons off,
    Then screw the red and black caps back on, and your done. you can now use bananas.


    If you and your friend want the best of what the RTiA9's can do, you guys need to get an external AMP to run them.Your ears and speakers will love you for it.

    Forget bi-amping them with a receiver.

    Just my .02

    Good Luck..
    Polk Audio SDA 2.3tl Fully Hot Rodded. 😎

    SVS SB16 X2

    Cary SLP-05/Ultimate Upgrade.
    Cary SA-500.1 ES Amps
    Cary DMS 800PV Network
    OPPO UDP 205/ModWright Modification
    VPI Scout TT / Dynavector 20x2
    Jolida JD9 Fully Modified

    VPI MW-1 Cyclone RCM

    MIT Shotgun 3 cables throughout / Except TT, and PC’s
  • wutadumsn23
    wutadumsn23 Posts: 3,702
    edited February 2010
    Just pop out the little plug that is in the top of the connector, easy peasy. IMHO, Bi-Wiring, which it is, not Bi-Amping is not worth the cost of the extra speaker wire. If you plan on getting an external amp in the future it wouldn't be a bad idea to get Bi-Amp cables now, so you don't have to get them or a second run of speaker wire in the future. It is up to you.

    -Jeff

    edit: damn I typed too slow, lol.
    HT Rig
    Receiver- Onkyo TX-SR806
    Mains- Polk Audio Monitor 70
    Center- Polk Audio CS2
    Surrounds- Polk Audio TSi 500's :D
    Sub- Polk Audio PSW125
    Retired- Polk Audio Monitor 40's
    T.V.- 60" Sony SXRD KDS-60A2000 LCoS
    Blu-Ray- 80 GB PS3


    2 CH rig (in progress)
    Polk Audio Monitor 10A's :cool:

    It's not that I'm insensitive, I just don't care.. :D
  • hearingimpared
    hearingimpared Posts: 21,136
    edited February 2010
    Unscrew the red and black caps off,
    Then just pop off the little red and black buttons off,
    Then screw the red and black caps back on, and your done. you can now use bananas.


    If you and your friend want the best of what the RTiA9's can do, you guys need to get an external AMP to run them.Your ears and speakers will love you for it.

    Forget bi-amping them with a receiver.

    Just my .02

    Good Luck..

    So on the RTiA9s there are caps covering the rear holes?
  • wutadumsn23
    wutadumsn23 Posts: 3,702
    edited February 2010
    Yup, just like the Monitors. I have them on my 70's/40's.

    -Jeff
    HT Rig
    Receiver- Onkyo TX-SR806
    Mains- Polk Audio Monitor 70
    Center- Polk Audio CS2
    Surrounds- Polk Audio TSi 500's :D
    Sub- Polk Audio PSW125
    Retired- Polk Audio Monitor 40's
    T.V.- 60" Sony SXRD KDS-60A2000 LCoS
    Blu-Ray- 80 GB PS3


    2 CH rig (in progress)
    Polk Audio Monitor 10A's :cool:

    It's not that I'm insensitive, I just don't care.. :D
  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,329
    edited February 2010
    Joe,

    The newer RTi series has tiny red and black plugs that cover the hole for using banana's
    You have to unscrew the caps to take out the plugs.
    Polk Audio SDA 2.3tl Fully Hot Rodded. 😎

    SVS SB16 X2

    Cary SLP-05/Ultimate Upgrade.
    Cary SA-500.1 ES Amps
    Cary DMS 800PV Network
    OPPO UDP 205/ModWright Modification
    VPI Scout TT / Dynavector 20x2
    Jolida JD9 Fully Modified

    VPI MW-1 Cyclone RCM

    MIT Shotgun 3 cables throughout / Except TT, and PC’s
  • hearingimpared
    hearingimpared Posts: 21,136
    edited February 2010
    It seems like a waste to me. What are they for, dust caps?
  • wutadumsn23
    wutadumsn23 Posts: 3,702
    edited February 2010
    I would imagine so, can't think of any other purpose Joe.

    -Jeff
    HT Rig
    Receiver- Onkyo TX-SR806
    Mains- Polk Audio Monitor 70
    Center- Polk Audio CS2
    Surrounds- Polk Audio TSi 500's :D
    Sub- Polk Audio PSW125
    Retired- Polk Audio Monitor 40's
    T.V.- 60" Sony SXRD KDS-60A2000 LCoS
    Blu-Ray- 80 GB PS3


    2 CH rig (in progress)
    Polk Audio Monitor 10A's :cool:

    It's not that I'm insensitive, I just don't care.. :D
  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,329
    edited February 2010
    it is a waste, and confusing for a newbe..
    Polk Audio SDA 2.3tl Fully Hot Rodded. 😎

    SVS SB16 X2

    Cary SLP-05/Ultimate Upgrade.
    Cary SA-500.1 ES Amps
    Cary DMS 800PV Network
    OPPO UDP 205/ModWright Modification
    VPI Scout TT / Dynavector 20x2
    Jolida JD9 Fully Modified

    VPI MW-1 Cyclone RCM

    MIT Shotgun 3 cables throughout / Except TT, and PC’s
  • hearingimpared
    hearingimpared Posts: 21,136
    edited February 2010
    Just pop out the little plug that is in the top of the connector, easy peasy. IMHO, Bi-Wiring, which it is, not Bi-Amping is not worth the cost of the extra speaker wire. If you plan on getting an external amp in the future it wouldn't be a bad idea to get Bi-Amp cables now, so you don't have to get them or a second run of speaker wire in the future. It is up to you.

    -Jeff

    edit: damn I typed too slow, lol.

    That depends on the speaker cable you are using. I use MIT bi-wire speaker cables and they make a big improvement in the SQ. I believe the reason for this is that the network in the boxes allow only the high frequencies on the tweeter posts and visa-versa on the low frequency posts.
  • wutadumsn23
    wutadumsn23 Posts: 3,702
    edited February 2010
    That depends on the speaker cable you are using. I use MIT bi-wire speaker cables and they make a big improvement in the SQ. I believe the reason for this is that the network in the boxes allow only the high frequencies on the tweeter posts and visa-versa on the low frequency posts.

    Yeah, I guess a couple thousand dollar set of speaker wires might make a difference Joe, lol. Something I will never have to worry about.

    -Jeff
    HT Rig
    Receiver- Onkyo TX-SR806
    Mains- Polk Audio Monitor 70
    Center- Polk Audio CS2
    Surrounds- Polk Audio TSi 500's :D
    Sub- Polk Audio PSW125
    Retired- Polk Audio Monitor 40's
    T.V.- 60" Sony SXRD KDS-60A2000 LCoS
    Blu-Ray- 80 GB PS3


    2 CH rig (in progress)
    Polk Audio Monitor 10A's :cool:

    It's not that I'm insensitive, I just don't care.. :D
  • hearingimpared
    hearingimpared Posts: 21,136
    edited February 2010
    Yeah, I guess a couple thousand dollar set of speaker wires might make a difference Joe, lol. Something I will never have to worry about.

    -Jeff

    He he he, $1700 new, I got them for $400 used. So never say never Bud!
  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,329
    edited February 2010
    IMHO speaker cables do make a difference, but without a good receiver and/or receiver and an amp with good clean power and/or good seperates preamp/amp combo would you really hear a difference? I doubt it.

    To me if your running just a basic setup, lower end receiver and speakers. I see no reason for one to spend a lot on speaker wire and expecting the WOW factor..

    Again just my .02
    Polk Audio SDA 2.3tl Fully Hot Rodded. 😎

    SVS SB16 X2

    Cary SLP-05/Ultimate Upgrade.
    Cary SA-500.1 ES Amps
    Cary DMS 800PV Network
    OPPO UDP 205/ModWright Modification
    VPI Scout TT / Dynavector 20x2
    Jolida JD9 Fully Modified

    VPI MW-1 Cyclone RCM

    MIT Shotgun 3 cables throughout / Except TT, and PC’s
  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,329
    edited February 2010
    He he he, $1700 new, I got them for $400 used. So never say never Bud!

    You a lucky bastage..:)
    Polk Audio SDA 2.3tl Fully Hot Rodded. 😎

    SVS SB16 X2

    Cary SLP-05/Ultimate Upgrade.
    Cary SA-500.1 ES Amps
    Cary DMS 800PV Network
    OPPO UDP 205/ModWright Modification
    VPI Scout TT / Dynavector 20x2
    Jolida JD9 Fully Modified

    VPI MW-1 Cyclone RCM

    MIT Shotgun 3 cables throughout / Except TT, and PC’s
  • hearingimpared
    hearingimpared Posts: 21,136
    edited February 2010
    IMHO speaker cables do make a difference, but without a good receiver and/or receiver and an amp with good clean power and/or good seperates preamp/amp combo would you really hear a difference? I doubt it.

    To me if your running just a basic setup, lower end receiver and speakers. I see no reason for one to spend a lot on speaker wire and expecting the WOW factor..

    Again just my .02

    Agreed! Especially if the speakers aren't up to snuff.
  • wutadumsn23
    wutadumsn23 Posts: 3,702
    edited February 2010
    He he he, $1700 new, I got them for $400 used. So never say never Bud!

    LOL, damn you Joe!!
    IMHO speaker cables do make a difference, but without a good receiver and/or receiver and an amp with good clean power and/or good seperates preamp/amp combo would you really hear a difference? I doubt it.

    To me if your running just a basic setup, lower end receiver and speakers. I see no reason for one to spend a lot on speaker wire and expecting the WOW factor..

    Again just my .02

    True that, doubt MIT's would make much difference in my setup, although I did get a chance to demo a set of AQ Type 4's and they were pretty nice.

    -Jeff
    HT Rig
    Receiver- Onkyo TX-SR806
    Mains- Polk Audio Monitor 70
    Center- Polk Audio CS2
    Surrounds- Polk Audio TSi 500's :D
    Sub- Polk Audio PSW125
    Retired- Polk Audio Monitor 40's
    T.V.- 60" Sony SXRD KDS-60A2000 LCoS
    Blu-Ray- 80 GB PS3


    2 CH rig (in progress)
    Polk Audio Monitor 10A's :cool:

    It's not that I'm insensitive, I just don't care.. :D
  • hearingimpared
    hearingimpared Posts: 21,136
    edited February 2010
    You a lucky bastage..:)

    Don't force me to call you a forking ice hole! LOL!!!

    Hey, I got the deal from a good member here. Besides my MIT speaker cable is an older model but just as effective when used in conjunction with my MIT S3 ICs.
  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,329
    edited February 2010
    LOL, damn you Joe!!



    True that, doubt MIT's would make much difference in my setup, although I did get a chance to demo a set of AQ Type 4's and they were pretty nice.

    -Jeff


    AQ is one of my favorites, I have type 4 running my fronts in my HT rig.
    Polk Audio SDA 2.3tl Fully Hot Rodded. 😎

    SVS SB16 X2

    Cary SLP-05/Ultimate Upgrade.
    Cary SA-500.1 ES Amps
    Cary DMS 800PV Network
    OPPO UDP 205/ModWright Modification
    VPI Scout TT / Dynavector 20x2
    Jolida JD9 Fully Modified

    VPI MW-1 Cyclone RCM

    MIT Shotgun 3 cables throughout / Except TT, and PC’s
  • xrapidx
    xrapidx Posts: 73
    edited February 2010
    Well - we both do plan on getting separate amps later on - so maybe he should go with it in the meantime - for my listening pleasure :)

    When I was considering bi-amping - I was going to get these: QED Silver Anniversary XT Speaker Bi-Wire Cable. Purely because they were reasonably priced for the experiment.

    Does anyone have any experience with them? As before, it'll cost him roughly the same getting in normal cables as opposed to bi-wire cables.
  • hearingimpared
    hearingimpared Posts: 21,136
    edited February 2010
    xrapidx wrote: »
    Well - we both do plan on getting separate amps later on - so maybe he should go with it in the meantime - for my listening pleasure :)

    When I was considering bi-amping - I was going to get these: QED Silver Anniversary XT Speaker Bi-Wire Cable. Purely because they were reasonably priced for the experiment.

    Does anyone have any experience with them? As before, it'll cost him roughly the same getting in normal cables as opposed to bi-wire cables.

    Now you are confusing me. Bi-wire cables are simply wires that have a Y connector in them and cannot be used for bi-amping.
  • wutadumsn23
    wutadumsn23 Posts: 3,702
    edited February 2010
    I think he is confusing Bi-Amping and Bi-Wiring Joe.

    -Jeff
    HT Rig
    Receiver- Onkyo TX-SR806
    Mains- Polk Audio Monitor 70
    Center- Polk Audio CS2
    Surrounds- Polk Audio TSi 500's :D
    Sub- Polk Audio PSW125
    Retired- Polk Audio Monitor 40's
    T.V.- 60" Sony SXRD KDS-60A2000 LCoS
    Blu-Ray- 80 GB PS3


    2 CH rig (in progress)
    Polk Audio Monitor 10A's :cool:

    It's not that I'm insensitive, I just don't care.. :D
  • hearingimpared
    hearingimpared Posts: 21,136
    edited February 2010
    I think he is confusing Bi-Amping and Bi-Wiring Joe.

    -Jeff

    I believe you are correct Sir!
  • wutadumsn23
    wutadumsn23 Posts: 3,702
    edited February 2010
    I believe you are correct Sir!

    It has happened once or twice, lol.

    -Jeff
    HT Rig
    Receiver- Onkyo TX-SR806
    Mains- Polk Audio Monitor 70
    Center- Polk Audio CS2
    Surrounds- Polk Audio TSi 500's :D
    Sub- Polk Audio PSW125
    Retired- Polk Audio Monitor 40's
    T.V.- 60" Sony SXRD KDS-60A2000 LCoS
    Blu-Ray- 80 GB PS3


    2 CH rig (in progress)
    Polk Audio Monitor 10A's :cool:

    It's not that I'm insensitive, I just don't care.. :D
  • xrapidx
    xrapidx Posts: 73
    edited February 2010
    Now you are confusing me. Bi-wire cables are simply wires that have a Y connector in them and cannot be used for bi-amping.

    The ones posted above can be used for bi-amping (4 to 4) or bi-wiring (2 to 4) - when ordering you specify 4 to 4 or 2 to 4 connectors.

    In this case, I'm referring to 4 to 4 connectors.

    Not sure if I have the terminology correct?
  • hearingimpared
    hearingimpared Posts: 21,136
    edited February 2010
    xrapidx wrote: »
    The ones posted above can be used for bi-amping or bi-wiring - when ordering you specify 2 to 4 or 4 to 4 connectors.

    In this case, I'm referring to 4 to 4 connectors

    Ah now you're talking. I've never listened to those cables before so I can't give you any advice on them except to try them and if you don't like them then you can sell them for not much of a loss.
  • xrapidx
    xrapidx Posts: 73
    edited February 2010
    Ah now you're talking. I've never listened to those cables before so I can't give you any advice on them except to try them and if you don't like them then you can sell them for not much of a loss.

    Fortunately - I'm not going to be the tester - my buddy is :) If I like them maybe I can buy them cheap from him :cool: