SDA 1C cabinets?

Pycroft
Pycroft Posts: 1,960
edited March 2010 in Vintage Speakers
Is it possible to buy just the cabinets for Studio 1C's? As I've said in other threads, mine look like crap and sound heavenly. I've gotten a few suggestions on sprucing them up, but I'm uninspired. I've seen cabinets for other speakers on ebay. Do they even sell cabinets for 1C's studios?

James
2 Channel/HT:
Sony SS-M9 P's (ES version)
Sony SS-M1CN Center Channel
Polk RT800 Surround Speakers
Odyssey Stratos Dual Mono Amplifiers
TAD 150 Signature Tube Preamp
Harman Kardon HK354
Sony SACD Player
Post edited by Pycroft on

Comments

  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,333
    edited February 2010
    No, but you could have a set built.

    I'm sure it would cost you a few $$

    Good Luck.
    Polk Audio SDA 2.3tl Fully Hot Rodded. 😎

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    MIT Shotgun 3 cables throughout / Except TT, and PC’s
  • Conradicles
    Conradicles Posts: 6,134
    edited February 2010
    Pycroft wrote: »
    but I'm uninspired.

    James man, don't give up yet!
  • comfortablycurt
    comfortablycurt Posts: 6,745
    edited February 2010
    Would it be possible to just re-veneer them?
    The nirvana inducer-
    APC H10 Power Conditioner
    Marantz UD5005 universal player
    Parasound Halo P5 preamp
    Parasound HCA-1200II power amp
    PolkAudio LSi9's/PolkAudio SDA 2A's/PolkAudio Monitor 7A's
    Audioquest Speaker Cables and IC's
  • TNTsTunes
    TNTsTunes Posts: 751
    edited February 2010
    I have some SDA's that need some sprucing up also.

    My idea is to add 1/4" sides covered in grille cloth.
    Make the grill the same width to match the new sides and recover.
    Then make the bottom front edge on the speaker match the grille width and cover it with grille cloth.
    Build Cherry end caps and bolt them on.

    I also want to add some bracing, rebuild the crossovers, add spikes and dynomat/morite the drivers well I'm at it.

    First I build some custom SDA's though. ;)
    "Make a man a fire and he'll be warm for a day. Light
    a man on fire and he'll be warm for the rest of his life."


  • comfortablycurt
    comfortablycurt Posts: 6,745
    edited February 2010
    TNTsTunes wrote: »
    I have some SDA's that need some sprucing up also.

    My idea is to add 1/4" sides covered in grille cloth.
    Make the grill the same width to match the new sides and recover.
    Then make the bottom front edge on the speaker match the grille width and cover it with grille cloth.
    Build Cherry end caps and bolt them on.

    I also want to add some bracing, rebuild the crossovers, add spikes and dynomat/morite the drivers well I'm at it.

    First I build some custom SDA's though. ;)

    One thing to bear in mind, is that adding extra panels to the cabinets is going to change the mass of the cabinet itself, and is going to change it's resonant properties. This could impact the sound quality.

    I'm not saying it's a good or bad idea, but I'd look into it a bit more(if you haven't already), before jumping into it.
    The nirvana inducer-
    APC H10 Power Conditioner
    Marantz UD5005 universal player
    Parasound Halo P5 preamp
    Parasound HCA-1200II power amp
    PolkAudio LSi9's/PolkAudio SDA 2A's/PolkAudio Monitor 7A's
    Audioquest Speaker Cables and IC's
  • Conradicles
    Conradicles Posts: 6,134
    edited February 2010
    James, I forget, are these studio or standard?
  • TNTsTunes
    TNTsTunes Posts: 751
    edited February 2010
    James, I forget, are these studio or standard?

    His sig says thet are studio's.:D
    "Make a man a fire and he'll be warm for a day. Light
    a man on fire and he'll be warm for the rest of his life."


  • Pycroft
    Pycroft Posts: 1,960
    edited February 2010
    These are studio - all black. To be honest...I'm sure re-veneering is possible, I just don't have the knowledge and have never done it. Someone suggested Pig Spit...I think it's online only cause I went to Home Depot and Lowes and they don't have it. Is the 'Pit Spit' option similar to re-veneering? Now would be a great time to do it while I wait for the friggin rug to go into the listening/rec room.

    James
    2 Channel/HT:
    Sony SS-M9 P's (ES version)
    Sony SS-M1CN Center Channel
    Polk RT800 Surround Speakers
    Odyssey Stratos Dual Mono Amplifiers
    TAD 150 Signature Tube Preamp
    Harman Kardon HK354
    Sony SACD Player
  • TNTsTunes
    TNTsTunes Posts: 751
    edited February 2010
    One thing to bear in mind, is that adding extra panels to the cabinets is going to change the mass of the cabinet itself, and is going to change it's resonant properties. This could impact the sound quality.

    I'm not saying it's a good or bad idea, but I'd look into it a bit more(if you haven't already), before jumping into it.

    It's the difference between studio's and the standard 1C's for the most part.

    Some brace work should help since it sounds like the cabinets have seen better days.
    "Make a man a fire and he'll be warm for a day. Light
    a man on fire and he'll be warm for the rest of his life."


  • kcoc321
    kcoc321 Posts: 1,788
    edited February 2010
    Pycroft wrote: »
    These are studio - all black. To be honest...I'm sure re-veneering is possible, I just don't have the knowledge and have never done it. Someone suggested Pig Spit...I think it's online only cause I went to Home Depot and Lowes and they don't have it. Is the 'Pit Spit' option similar to re-veneering? Now would be a great time to do it while I wait for the friggin rug to go into the listening/rec room.

    James

    Pig Spit is a Motorcycle product. You get it at motorcycle stores. Go to the Pig Spit webpage and I think it tells you locations that carry it. I need to get some myself and try it.

    As far as re-veneering, you basically need an old iron (if you get eh iron on kind) and a good veneer trimmer, or router with a 'flush cut' bit.

    If yo have a Rockler's in your area, they have a slew of veneers and veneer trimming tools. I think they even might have classes on doing it.
  • ben62670
    ben62670 Posts: 15,969
    edited February 2010
    You're cabs have real wood veneer or vinyl?
    Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
    Thanks
    Ben
  • TNTsTunes
    TNTsTunes Posts: 751
    edited February 2010
    ben62670 wrote: »
    You're cabs have real wood veneer or vinyl?

    The 2 pair of Studio 1C's I had were vinyl.
    "Make a man a fire and he'll be warm for a day. Light
    a man on fire and he'll be warm for the rest of his life."


  • Pycroft
    Pycroft Posts: 1,960
    edited February 2010
    Hmmm...Never actually thought about it. Come to think of it, they don't seem like pure wood. The material underneath the speaker is almost a cork like material. The cabinets have peeling at corners, and it doesn't seem like a 'wood' like peel. I'm not sure I know exactly what 'vinyl' would look or feel like. Would pictures help? I have some on the forum in other posts that I will look for.
    2 Channel/HT:
    Sony SS-M9 P's (ES version)
    Sony SS-M1CN Center Channel
    Polk RT800 Surround Speakers
    Odyssey Stratos Dual Mono Amplifiers
    TAD 150 Signature Tube Preamp
    Harman Kardon HK354
    Sony SACD Player
  • Pycroft
    Pycroft Posts: 1,960
    edited February 2010
    http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=94757&highlight=sda+1c%27s

    There's a post with some pics of the speakers, and you can see some of the damage. There is more similar damage - scratching, small chunks missing in corners (Chunks sounds bad, it's not BIG chunks - but noticable).

    James
    2 Channel/HT:
    Sony SS-M9 P's (ES version)
    Sony SS-M1CN Center Channel
    Polk RT800 Surround Speakers
    Odyssey Stratos Dual Mono Amplifiers
    TAD 150 Signature Tube Preamp
    Harman Kardon HK354
    Sony SACD Player
  • george daniel
    george daniel Posts: 12,096
    edited February 2010
    just pm the resident wood ninja.
    JC approves....he told me so. (F-1 nut)
  • kcoc321
    kcoc321 Posts: 1,788
    edited February 2010
    Those cabinets don't actually look that bad. First I would try cleaning the "scratches" from the sides and tops. I start with windex and then if that doesn't work, I use the "goof-off" wipes, especially on some of the 'transfer' looking paint marks.

    For the dented up corners, if you are not going for 'museum quality' (ie building up the corners and reveneering them) you just get some black leather dye. (Tandy leather or eq) It is anodyne (sp) and will soak in, as opposed to just being on the surface. You could also use it on any side scratches that persist. Nice thing about leather dye black, is they have several 'blacks'.

    IF you have a High quality paint store, they can also do a color match for the exact stain. You bring it in and they make up a sample, and then document the steps you need to take.

    I would sample it on the bottoms first. (the set in parts) Once you have everything up to what you want, then use a wipe on Poly as a finish coat. At least 2 coats.

    Keep in mind, the Pig Spit is basically a wax, so once you apply that, you can't stain over it. So it could also be used as the finish coat, doing steps 1&2 from above, before hand, but won't be as durable.
  • w_coyote
    w_coyote Posts: 66
    edited March 2010
    Ok I have a question about this. If you were to rebuild the cabinets how would you preserve the back panel with the sda sticker and serial number. Seems like this is something that you would want to preserve. How inportant is this info. I could build a cabinet and throw some drivers in it and call them sda's. Just curious because I recently picked up a set of 1B's and was thinking of putting a oak veneer on them. I'm not sure what kind of shape the old cabinets are in since I haven't started working on them. They don't look bad but you dont know until you get the old stuff off and see what you have to work with.