Acura TSX speaker upgrade

jay3712
jay3712 Posts: 7
edited February 2010 in Car Audio & Electronics
I just picked up an 05 TSX non-navi and it's time to upgrade the stock stereo. I want to upgrade the speakers, keep the stock hu and bypass the stock amp.

1. Polk Audio MM6501 (Front Components)
2. Polk Audio MM691 (Rear Deck)
3. JL Audio 10w3v3-2
4. Alpine PDX-5

Does anyone else have any experience with the PDX-5? Does it have enough power for the sub channel? I chose it because of the size, I figure I can mount it in the truck right below the rear deck. This way I can still have the back seat fold down if needed.

Thanks for any input!

Jason
Post edited by jay3712 on

Comments

  • chu
    chu Posts: 178
    edited February 2010
    I used each and everyone of the pdx amps, and they are perfectly capable handling the sub and your component sets adequately.
  • chu
    chu Posts: 178
    edited February 2010
    Are jl that much of a power hog?
  • jay3712
    jay3712 Posts: 7
    edited February 2010
    Thanks for your input!

    I have been reading quite a bit on here lately and many people have said not to upgrade the rear speakers. In this particular car, the fronts are components, coaxials in the rear doors, and 6x9 in the rear deck. The rear door speakers are full range, the rear deck speakers are only midbass. As is, the "midbass" that comes from the 6x9s is muddy, kinda boomy, and sounds terrible.

    I suppose I have three options:
    1. Replace the 6x9s with polk mm
    2. Replace the 6.5 in the rear doors with polk mm
    3. Leave both rear door and rear deck stock and fade forward. (if I go with this option, is there a better amp that I should look at since I won't be using but 2 of the full range channels?)

    The RMS on the JL 10w3v3 is 100-500 RMS (on Crutchfield). In reading about the PDX-5 amps, all of them that I have seen produce 375-400w RMS on the sub channel, in spite of the stated 300w rms. (I see, my original post may have indicated that I would be getting 2 subs. That is just the full part number for the 10w3v3 2ohm version. There will be one sub.)

    Thanks!
  • arun1963
    arun1963 Posts: 1,797
    edited February 2010
    Another option is to get a new hu instead of the MM 6x9's or any other rears. You have everything else in place. Components, sub and amp. Your amp and speakers wont improve the quality of your signal. So its better to have a clean and strong signal to start.

    Look at a HU with good tuning options. Time alignment and a good equaliser. The ability to go active, while optional, would be a good bonus. You would then have all the pieces,, to tune in great sound.

    Another vote for no rears. If you still want a speaker at the back, run the coax's on you rear doors off the hu.
  • MCCLIPSE
    MCCLIPSE Posts: 176
    edited February 2010
    I agree with ditchin the rears, I know my application is different but in my single cab truck I left the rear speakers alone and focused on the fronts only. I'm very pleased with the results.
    Truck system so far...

    2007 Dodge Ram 1500 quad cab Hemi

    Kenwood KDC-X492 HU
    MM651 coaxials in doors

    Family Room:

    Panasonic TC-P50G25 50" Plasma
    Panasonic DMP-BD655K BDP
    XBOX 360 250GB
    Harman/Kardon HK3480(on loan)
    Monitor 70 Series II
  • jay3712
    jay3712 Posts: 7
    edited February 2010
    I didn't know that you could bi-amp these speakers. How would I do that?

    Yes, everything I have read says the PDX puts out the same power at 2 or 4 ohms. What would be the advantage of going with the 4 ohm over the 2 ohm if the power from the amp is the same?

    I am not going to get a new HU because of the way that it would look, and it would take a lot of dashboard fabrication that I am not capable of. I have an iPod hookup, aux input, XM radio, 6 disc changer already built in so I'm all set on sources.