possible 2.3tl upgrade

zarrdoss

I am looking to upgrade the x-overs on my 2.3tl's and was going to use all Dayton Metallized 1% Polypropylene. In some cases I will have to use two and piggyback to get exact values as can be seen in the pics. I am either going to use Dayton 20 ohm 10 watt non inductive resistors or Mills 20 ohm 12 watt non inductive resistor in place of the stock 22.5 ohm, I will use the Mills if it will make a big difference. I understand that you don't need the 750pF piggybacking the caps like on stock when you use good caps like these if thats correct? I put a picture of the unaltered and my proposed altered pic. Any thoughts advice would be appreciated.


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Face

Sonic Craft carries Mills 22R0 resistors.

I would also use something better than Dayton in the tweeter circuit, check out Sonic Caps or Claritycaps.

And you're correct, the bypass(piggyback) caps are not replaced.

zarrdoss

Thank you, the thing is right now I might have enough to do this, just over $100 as money is super tight right now. and was wondering if this would be a big upgrade over stock. if not it will have to wait.

Disc Jockey

I would take the bypass cap off the 16uf cap in the tweeter circuit also. Mills does make a 22 ohm resistor. PE may not carry it but sonicraft and partsconnexion do. Not sure on the Dayton values, didn't check. Have fun!

zarrdoss

Disc Jockey wrote: »

I would take the bypass cap off the 16uf cap in the tweeter circuit also. Mills does make a 22 ohm resistor. PE may not carry it but sonicraft and partsconnexion do. Not sure on the Dayton values, didn't check. Have fun!

Yeah I was going to but I have to use a 15uF and piggyback a 1uF to get 16uF, and get rid of the bypass.

Disc Jockey

Ahh, got it. In that case you might want to use a 12/4 combo instead of a 15/1.

zarrdoss

Disc Jockey wrote: »

Ahh, got it. In that case you might want to use a 12/4 combo instead of a 15/1.

whats the difference? I have to do that two other places on the low end any suggestions there?

Disc Jockey

In general practice, it's best to keep the values of the caps as close to each other as possible. I don't know how critical it is but that's the advice I've always been given.

zarrdoss

so just divide in half or will 1,2 or 3uF variation really make a difference?

Face

zarrdoss wrote: »

so just divide in half or will 1,2 or 3uF difference really make a difference?

Using a single value in the HF circuit is best. If a single cap isn't available, divide by 2.

If money is tight, I'd wait and save up to do it right the first time.

Disc Jockey

I've always tried to divide in half, or as close as reasonably possible. I think as the values get further apart, the lower value cap acts more and more like a bypass cap. I have absolutely no idea as to what point the difference in values starts to have a noticeable effect. You may not notice any difference between a 15/1 and a 12/4 but since they are both stock values, I would do the 12/4.

zarrdoss

Face wrote: »

Using a single value in the HF circuit is best. If a single cap isn't available, divide by 2.

If money is tight, I'd wait and save up to do it right the first time.

Thanks, I have heard good things about these Dayton's though and was going for better than stock as I have 100 credit at parts express. What is an excepted area of tolerance to stock values? will 1,2 or three make that much of a difference?

Thank you

Disc Jockey

you could even use an 8.2/8.2 and still be well within the tolerance of the original caps as I think they were 10% or more.

zarrdoss

I will do a revised picture then and post it. thanks all

zarrdoss

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This should keep everything in the 10% tolerance range of original. I will check the price on those other 22 ohm resistors mentioned.

zarrdoss

will 2 ohms on those resistors make any real difference in sound?

Disc Jockey

Yes, the .5 ohm change in the 2Bs from not replacing the polyswitch with a resistor made a noticeable difference in the sound. You will be much better off with a 22 as opposed to a 20.

zarrdoss

thank you, will do