2001 Suburban stock speaker replacement

hoosier21

Over the weekend I replaced the stock speakers in my SUV with Polk db6501s in the front and db 651 in the rear doors, sounds much better, wow there was lots of foam surround missing from all four speakers.

Install went well and was easy, all just dropped in except the 6501's tweeters, i have to do some cutting to get it tweeter mounted on the factory mounting plate.

I want to look at replacing the factory subwoofer now.

Anyone know what the power is going to this driver from the factory?

According to Crutchfield, the Polk db840 is a fit, but has this note "Please measure mounting area to confirm fit"

anyone ever replaced this driver before?

any suggestions or comments are welcome.

Thanks

Russ

MacLeod

The power wont be much as its probably a 6" sub or an 8 at the most. Upgrading to a new sub might not really make a difference without upgrading the amp as well. A 6" sub getting 50 watts really wont sound that much worse than a 8" sub getting 50 watts.

Granted, Im not that familiar with the OEM sound systems so take that with a grain of salt. Cody is well versed in GM so he'll know more than I do.

hoosier21

I know it will be a real low powered amp, but given the contdition the door speakers were in, I am sure that speaker is a POS with rotten surrounds also.

Plus, the polk speakers must be a bit more sensitive, as the bass is a bit more laid back than usual and is driving me nuts. Hoping to at least gain the tonal balanace.

the 8 inch driver is only 50 bucks, I am sure I will change it out.

Thanks


Russ

hoosier21

DSkip wrote: »

They will sound better after time. In 2-4 weeks you should start noticing a bit more sound coming from them.

The db line is imo the best entry-level speaker out there. There aren't many within that range that can compare the clarity of those speakers. Mine were always a bit bright for me though, and I had the same issue with the midbass. They did get better over a few weeks of playing them though.

thanks, that could be 6 months for me, I have about a 5 min drive to work

hoosier21

DSkip wrote: »

Mine were always a bit bright for me though, .

same here

arun1963

Try attenuating the tweeter, from the switch at the xover. Also try and pinch down a bit at 2-3khz at your hu's eq. The db's are a bit on the brighter side. But that can be fixed. That apart, they are great entry level speakers.

MacLeod

Theyre too bright because the crossover point is too low.

arun1963

True. That's the root cause. Thiis applied a bit even with the momo's. For the momo's the passive crossover point was 2.6khz, if I recall correctly. This should have been around the 3-3.5khz mark imo. Going active with the momos and setting this around 4khz, made a big difference.

Thats why I was suggesting the OP pinch down a bit at this point.

exalted512

hoosier21 wrote: »

I know it will be a real low powered amp, but given the contdition the door speakers were in, I am sure that speaker is a POS with rotten surrounds also.

Plus, the polk speakers must be a bit more sensitive, as the bass is a bit more laid back than usual and is driving me nuts. Hoping to at least gain the tonal balanace.

the 8 inch driver is only 50 bucks, I am sure I will change it out.

Thanks


Russ

It is an 8" driver, but what you'll have to worry about is depth. Its probably getting somewhere in the range of about 20 watts. I wouldn't put the Polk in there, I would get something off of partsexpress.com. The polk sub isnt going to be as efficient as the stock one and its going to require more power.
-Cody

audiobliss

I would love to see some pictures of the install, either during and/or after. Dad has an '01 Suburban, as well.

hoosier21

audiobliss wrote: »

I would love to see some pictures of the install, either during and/or after. Dad has an '01 Suburban, as well.

It looks stock, everything is behind the stock grills.

The rear door speakers literally where screwed into the stock openings using the stock screw holes and Polk provided screws.

The fronts are a bit different, the woofer was screwed to the door panel using the backer plate provied by Polk (door panel sandwiched between the woofer and backer plate) using the factory hole in the door panel. The factory mountingplate for the tweeter was the only "work", as I had to drill and dremel the factory tweeter out, and enlarge the hole to except the Polk tweeter mounting cup. Not real hard, took about 10-15 mins each tweeter mount.

MacLeod

exalted512 wrote: »

It is an 8" driver, but what you'll have to worry about is depth. Its probably getting somewhere in the range of about 20 watts. I wouldn't put the Polk in there, I would get something off of partsexpress.com. The polk sub isnt going to be as efficient as the stock one and its going to require more power.
-Cody

I knew my boy would have the answer. Its kinda like I figured - a half assed sub getting barely enough power to light a match.

Cody makes a good point about Parts Express. Theyve got plenty of great OEM replacement speakers and dirt cheap.

exalted512

MacLeod wrote: »

Cody makes a good point about Parts Express.

those are the only kind of points I make:D
-Cody

P.S. JL sucks:p

audiobliss

hoosier21 wrote: »

It looks stock, everything is behind the stock grills.

The rear door speakers literally where screwed into the stock openings using the stock screw holes and Polk provided screws.

The fronts are a bit different, the woofer was screwed to the door panel using the backer plate provied by Polk (door panel sandwiched between the woofer and backer plate) using the factory hole in the door panel. The factory mountingplate for the tweeter was the only "work", as I had to drill and dremel the factory tweeter out, and enlarge the hole to except the Polk tweeter mounting cup. Not real hard, took about 10-15 mins each tweeter mount.

Very nice. Easy AND stealth install. Awesome!

exalted512 wrote: »

those are the only kind of points I make:D
-Cody

P.S. JL sucks:p

Psh, just not even worth it.

hoosier21

don't see too many 8" drivers on partsexpress, somebody suggest one for me please.

exalted512

I cant select right now as I'm in a hurry, but
http://www.parts-express.com/wizards/searchResults.cfm?srchExt=CAT&srchCat=847
http://www.parts-express.com/wizards/searchResults.cfm?srchExt=CAT&srchCat=489
-Cody

MacLeod

Tang Band, despite their flea market name, makes some very nice drivers. Definitely check them out.

McLoki

audiobliss wrote: »

I would love to see some pictures of the install, either during and/or after. Dad has an '01 Suburban, as well.

+1.... I have an '01 tahoe and was thinking of doing the exact same speaker replacement. I assume you still have the stock head unit?

Michael

hoosier21

exalted512 wrote: »

I cant select right now as I'm in a hurry, but
http://www.parts-express.com/wizards/searchResults.cfm?srchExt=CAT&srchCat=847
http://www.parts-express.com/wizards/searchResults.cfm?srchExt=CAT&srchCat=489
-Cody

thanks, I didn't really mean I needed help finding 8" drivers, I meant a shallow OEM cheap as dirt 8" driver.

Thank tho, I will work on getting one.

Russ

hoosier21

McLoki wrote: »

+1.... I have an '01 tahoe and was thinking of doing the exact same speaker replacement. I assume you still have the stock head unit?

Michael

if it stops raining I will take a few.

yes, using the stock radio, it is a very nice improvement for the money and effort

Russ

exalted512

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=290-356

Haven't heard that model personally, but specs wise it looks good. Fairly high efficiency in a 4 ohm driver.
-Cody

Installer4life

Check the impedence of that factory 8" woofer I think it's 2ohm. If it is and you replace with a 4 ohm driver you will lose half your power and not realy be able to hear it...

hoosier21

Installer4life wrote: »

Check the impedence of that factory 8" woofer I think it's 2ohm. If it is and you replace with a 4 ohm driver you will lose half your power and not realy be able to hear it...

maybe get a 4 ohm DVC and wire it up for 2 ohm?

I will look in this too when the weather breaks and time permits