Speaker Breakin

HBombToo
HBombToo Posts: 5,256
edited May 2003 in Speakers
some very interesting points.
enjoy!

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=254702

HBomb
***WAREMTAE***
Post edited by HBombToo on
· Share on FacebookShare on Twitter

Comments

  • RuSsMaN
    RuSsMaN Posts: 17,987
    edited May 2003
    Good read.
    Check your lips at the door woman. Shake your hips like battleships. Yeah, all the white girls trip when I sing at Sunday service.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • madmax
    madmax Posts: 12,434
    edited May 2003
    Interesting. From what I hear most subs tend to "pop" for a while when driven hard until broken in. Then they no longer do it.
    madmax
    Vinyl, the final frontier...

    Avantgarde horns, 300b tubes, thats the kinda crap I want... :D
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • HBombToo
    HBombToo Posts: 5,256
    edited May 2003
    Originally posted by madmax001
    Interesting. From what I hear most subs tend to "pop" for a while when driven hard until broken in. Then they no longer do it.
    madmax

    I think your right but in my case they just blow up!!!:lol:

    :confused:

    HBomb
    ***WAREMTAE***
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • nadams
    nadams Posts: 5,877
    edited May 2003
    I buy pre broken-in speakers :lol:

    However, when I replaced my blown SL1000 tweeters with Peerless replicas, I found that for the first week or so, they seemed to crackle and give off static at loud levels. Now they're fine.... a result of break-in?

    I bought a pair of Rockford Fosgate Punch 8" woofers to replace the woofers in my MAs, and they come with a little note that suggests that you refrain from playing the woofers at loud levels for the first 20 or so hours of playback time, in order to give the speakers a chance to break in.... are they just blowing smoke? Who is to say.... I never play 'em that loud anyway...

    nadams
    Ludicrous gibs!
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • madmax
    madmax Posts: 12,434
    edited May 2003
    Originally posted by HBombToo


    I think your right but in my case they just blow up!!!:lol:

    :confused:

    HBomb

    Maybe you didn't give them enough time to pop? I've heard that car subs need to break in before supplying too much juice.
    madmax:confused:
    Vinyl, the final frontier...

    Avantgarde horns, 300b tubes, thats the kinda crap I want... :D
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • RuSsMaN
    RuSsMaN Posts: 17,987
    edited May 2003
    Originally posted by nadams
    ....and they come with a little note that suggests that you refrain from playing the woofers at loud levels for the first 20 or so hours of playback time, in order to give the speakers a chance to break in.... are they just blowing smoke?

    Polk recommends this also on their Momo subs.

    Cheers,
    Russ
    Check your lips at the door woman. Shake your hips like battleships. Yeah, all the white girls trip when I sing at Sunday service.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • Dr. Spec
    Dr. Spec Posts: 3,780
    edited May 2003
    Henry - I would avoid any FR sweeps that exceed 80 dB. It is very easy to fry a VC on a sweep, especially when the SPL level exceeds 100 dB for extended periods of time.
    "What we do in life echoes in eternity"

    Ed Mullen (emullen@svsound.com)
    Director - Technology and Customer Service
    SVS
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • Dr. Spec
    Dr. Spec Posts: 3,780
    edited May 2003
    Also, I just recently read that careful cross torquing of the wood screws is extremely important to prevent warping the driver basket and misaligning the VC in the gap. Do them all a little at a time and torque them all very evenly.

    Doc
    "What we do in life echoes in eternity"

    Ed Mullen (emullen@svsound.com)
    Director - Technology and Customer Service
    SVS
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • HBombToo
    HBombToo Posts: 5,256
    edited May 2003
    Good thoughts... I brought a new Fluke from work and I'll let ya know the impedances later on the new verse old.

    Regards
    HBomb
    ***WAREMTAE***
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • RuSsMaN
    RuSsMaN Posts: 17,987
    edited May 2003
    Remember not to drink until you are DONE swapping the drivers Henry.
    Check your lips at the door woman. Shake your hips like battleships. Yeah, all the white girls trip when I sing at Sunday service.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • HBombToo
    HBombToo Posts: 5,256
    edited May 2003
    Yes Sir. I promise!

    Evil Twin after a quiet listen.

    HBomb
    ***WAREMTAE***
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • burdette
    burdette Posts: 1,194
    edited May 2003
    Originally posted by Dr. Spec
    Also, I just recently read that careful cross torquing of the wood screws is extremely important to prevent warping the driver basket and misaligning the VC in the gap. Do them all a little at a time and torque them all very evenly.

    Doc

    I agree with that for a stamped/steel basket. And I still did it for a cast basket, primarily to ensure that the flange sealed evenly and completely all the way around. But uneven tightness shouldn't create a problem with a cast basket. That stability is sort of the point. Hold a good solid cast basket in your hands, and it is apparent that having applied uneven torque to the bolts would NOT stress/distort the basket. Perhaps the head of the bolt would break off or you'd have an uneven seal around the driver... but it ain't gonna bend.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter