7.1 receiver with 2 outputs to each tower?

Trenchant

I've got polk monitor 70's and I'd like to get the full potential out of these speakers. I've heard if you get a good 7.1 receiver you can set 2 channels to power the lows in the speakers and 2 channels to power the mids/highs? Can anyone verify this? Whats this feature called? I'm planning to get a pioneer elite receiver.

It's kinda hard to explain so here's another way of explaining what I mean. Remove the bridge plate on the speaker terminals. Then run 2 sets of wires to each front speaker. Then set the receiver to cross everything over properly. That way you could send a full 180w, 200w, etc to each speaker depending on what your receiver puts out.

Most audio sources don't provide audio in 7.1 anyway and they probably won't anytime soon right? You would end up with a 5.1 system in the end.

wutadumsn23

What you are refering to is called "Bi-Wiring" and IMHO is not worth the cost of the extra speaker wire. Adding a second set of wires and hooking them up to the unused Surround Back L/R terminals will not give you much extra power to your speakers, nevermind double it. You AVR gets it's power from one power source for all your speakers and it only has a certain amout to deal with in the first place. You can give it a shot if you have the wire laying around, but again don't expect a huge difference. The best way to get more power to your speakers would be to add an external amp, and your AVR will need to have pre outs in order to be able to do this. Chances are the Elite's will have the needed pre outs, but which one are you looking at buying? While most DVD's don't have 7.1 audio, some of the newer Blu Rays are starting to be formatted that way, so in the future it may be the norm. Hope this helps and good luck.

-Jeff

tonyb

If you want extra power, get an amp. The M70's you have are pretty easy to drive though without one. Bi-amping off a receiver is a waste. Save your coin and upgrade your speakers when you can.

tugzy

I tried Bi-wiring with my setup and there is zero difference in SQ in my opinion. I would run one wire pair to the speakers, remove the bridge plates and replace the bridge plates with a short piece of wire of the same type. I just did this and it seems my highs have come a bit more to life.

I agree with above, just wire them normally but remove the bride plates and replace them with a short wire of the same type. Later if you want to get the best out of your speakers add a separate Amp, if that dont satisfy you, then upgrade the M70s... I previously ran my RTi A9s off my pioneer elite and hated the SQ, I since added an Emo XPA-2 (300wpc rms) and now the RTI A9s shine!

If i was to start from scratch for a 7.1 system, i would go all separates
exmple: Emotiva UMC-1 (processor), XPA-2 (Fronts), XPA-5 (center, sides, rear)

Trenchant

I was looking at the Pioneer Elite VSX23
http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Products/HomeEntertainment/AV-Receivers/EliteReceivers/ci.VSX-23TXH.Kuro?tab=B

tugzy

Trenchant wrote: »

I was looking at the Pioneer Elite VSX23
http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Products/HomeEntertainment/AV-Receivers/EliteReceivers/ci.VSX-23TXH.Kuro?tab=B

Its a very nice receiver to start off with, I think that's the replacement to my VSX-01... you could always go this route with the A/V and then add amps later;)

troyst123

I was actualy going to post a similar question.

I bought the Pioneer Elite VSX21-Txh myself and read that it has a "bi-amp" function available for the front L & R for setups 5.1 or less. The channel for 7.1/zone 2 or B can be used as an "amp" for bi-amping. The literature does not go into detail at all about what is going on in the amp (i.e. cross over, signal that is sent - to either bi-amped speaker - high and low, or full)

The setup is simple enough: remove the bridge from high and low terminals on the front speakers; wire the normal front receiver terminals to the high speaker terminals; wire the spare/zone 2/b/surrounds receiver terminals to the low speaker terminals; set the receiver programming for the zone 2/b/surrounds to bi-amp.

I've done a little internet searching and I did not find too much on this form of "passive" bi-amping, but did find a post or two from what sounded to be pretty audio saavy types that said it is a "no-brainer" to do, and fool proof compared to full-blown bi-amping.

I will probably give it a whirl (haven't yet - been trouble shooting other issues). My question is, other than possibly costing a little for extra wire if needed, is there any down side to this type of bi-amping?

gp4jesus

foolproof? Yes. Bi-amping? Well...

Look at tugzy's post #4. Replace those plates between the posts w/your favorite wire and be happy. Bi-wiring or using two amps THRU the passive filtering are so much the same thing...

Full blown bi/tri-amping is a different animal entirely - been there*, done that*, got a box of t-shirts! A lot of work and add'l expense - not for the faint of heart. Save yourself a headache/heartache, stick to fullrange.
* 25 years

I have the equipment & experience to make it work. BTW if you have a powered sub, you're essentially bi-amping your system!

cheers tony

Toolfan66

I say try it you will only learn and come to your own thoughs about it.
Just remember to take off your jumpers.

troyst123

Thanks for the feed back.

I will definitely be giving it a whirl and see what happens. If there is no noticable difference I may go back to full range, and may also replace the bridge with a wire jumper as suggested. I've heard some favorable results about that little change. I have good sound already in my opinion, but as seems to be the case, there are always "tweaks" that can be made.

gp4jesus - I know there is a big difference between this passive bi-amping and the "different animal". Full blown bi-amping definitely appears to be quite involved to say the least! I may look to getting an amp down to drive the fronts some time, but I am playing with the setup I have for now.

Thanks guys.

Troy