IS THIS THE POLY Monitor 10's

Peabody67GTO
Peabody67GTO Posts: 25
edited January 2010 in Vintage Speakers
Hello,

I thought I was removing the Poly Switch but I am not sure what I did. I removed E 0012-1 & jumped it and the bass just went flat. But the tweeter did cut off until I jumped it out.

Is the poly the blue Cap or did I remove the correct component? If I did not screw up then should I replace it with something because with it jumped out the bass and sound stage are gone!

THANKS

Sorry for my ignorance
Post edited by Peabody67GTO on
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,753
    edited January 2010
    You removed a cap! Do not play your speakers without putting it back.

    You do not have a poly switch on that crossover board.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • kcoc321
    kcoc321 Posts: 1,788
    edited January 2010
    OOPs....nope that big yellow thing, that you marked "removed this" on your picture, is the 12uF capacitor for the HF circuit. Although, if your bass phucked up, hen I would guess you 'clipped' something else as well, or else it is a factor of the jumper you installed.

    I don't actually see a polyswitch in your picture. Looks like a small lollypop, with 2 legs, usually orange or blue. Are you sure you have one on your model?

    Polysw-s.jpg
    pic thanks to Darqueknight
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  • ben62670
    ben62670 Posts: 15,969
    edited January 2010
    The polyswitch is very small and blue on your speakers. It is right next to the blue 12uf cap. Don't take both XO's apart you need one as reference.
    Ben
    Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
    Thanks
    Ben
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  • jimbo1421
    jimbo1421 Posts: 772
    edited January 2010
    I gotta give Peabody props for a nice clear picture, though.

    Jim
    5.1 System:
    TCL R613 55" 4K
    Front: SRS-3.1TL
    Center: CS400i
    Surround: Monitor 10B
    PSW10 subwoofer
    Onkyo PR-SC886P Pre/Pro
    NAD T955 5 channel power amplifier
    Technics SL-1710 MK2 turntable
    Audio-Technica AT14Sa cartridge
    Parasound P3 pre-amp
    Oppo BDP-103 Blu-Ray
    2014 MacBook Pro 2.8 GHz

    2.0 Office System:
    Monitor 10A (Peerless)
    Outlaw 1050 receiver
    Parasound HCA-1000A power amp
    MacPro
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,753
    edited January 2010
    Good eye Ben, I totally missed that little blue poly.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • dorokusai
    dorokusai Posts: 25,577
    edited January 2010
    Peabody67GTO wrote: »
    Hello,

    I thought I was removing the Poly Switch but I am not sure what I did. I removed E 0012-1 & jumped it and the bass just went flat. But the tweeter did cut off until I jumped it out.

    Is the poly the blue Cap or did I remove the correct component? If I did not screw up then should I replace it with something because with it jumped out the bass and sound stage are gone!

    THANKS

    Sorry for my ignorance

    I would suggest you not advertise xover upgrades to friends. While I hate to do it, that's some funny stuff you just did. You might as well get everything you need and just redo the xover like some of these hardcore folks.
    CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint.
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  • kcoc321
    kcoc321 Posts: 1,788
    edited January 2010
    Nice one Ben...you've definitely seen a few I bet.. :D
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  • Peabody67GTO
    Peabody67GTO Posts: 25
    edited January 2010
    Oh NO!

    I played it for a week and turned it up many many times. I thought I lost my hearing or at least the awesome bass my neighbor hated. My amp is a Onkyo Integra M-504 (with the cool green VU meters) 165 watts RMS .003 THD. I hope I did not damage anything because they do not sound like they did before I touched them. I did replace that part but it is not the same.


    Yes I do take good pictures. Thank you!

    Well I need to to a total rebuild. That explains why those BA VR1's sounded so much better then my 10's.

    I only removed that cap & I have the pictures as a reference.

    THANKS
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  • Peabody67GTO
    Peabody67GTO Posts: 25
    edited January 2010
    Oh Sorry, It is the same part I took out. I wanted to say it is not the same sound as I had before I removed the Cap.

    It is LATE!
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  • ben62670
    ben62670 Posts: 15,969
    edited January 2010
    kcoc321 wrote: »
    Nice one Ben...you've definitely seen a few I bet.. :D

    I have had more than a few come through these doors never mind the ones I have done for my self;)
    Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
    Thanks
    Ben
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  • Peabody67GTO
    Peabody67GTO Posts: 25
    edited January 2010
    Sent you a PM Ben.
    Talk to you Friday!
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  • ben62670
    ben62670 Posts: 15,969
    edited January 2010
    No Problem. It's a good community here. I hope I can help.
    Ben
    Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
    Thanks
    Ben
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  • dorokusai
    dorokusai Posts: 25,577
    edited January 2010
    Ben will square you away.
    CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint.
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  • halo71
    halo71 Posts: 4,606
    edited January 2010
    Peabody67GTO wrote: »
    My amp is a Onkyo Integra M-504 (with the cool green VU meters) 165 watts RMS .003 THD.

    Hey, same setup I am running now. M504 and Monitor 10's. :D


    But I gotta ask. What were you trying/hoping to accomplish by removing stuff off the XO?
    --Gary--
    Onkyo Integra M504, Bottlehead Foreplay III, Denon SACD, Thiel CS2.3, NHT VT-2, VT-3 and Evolution T6, Infinity RSIIIa, SDA1C and a few dozen other speakers around the house I change in and out.
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  • kcoc321
    kcoc321 Posts: 1,788
    edited January 2010
    His original goal, was to just remove, and jumper, the Polyswitch.
    But everything has a silver lining. Now, soon, he will have all new xovers. :D
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  • Paden501
    Paden501 Posts: 286
    edited January 2010
    Lets just hope he didn't kill a driver while he was at it.

    Good luck with the fix.
    ~Matt
    My System

    Front L/R: Definitive BP10Bs
    Surrounds -Polk Audio Monitor 4As
    Preamp: B&K Reference 20
    CD: Jolida JD100a
    L/R Amp: Carver TFM-24
    Turntable: Pioneer PL-516 W/ Shure M97xe
    TV: Sony 52" XBR9
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  • gdb
    gdb Posts: 6,012
    edited January 2010
    Monitor 10 XOs for sale in FM:

    http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=95255 ;)
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  • Peabody67GTO
    Peabody67GTO Posts: 25
    edited January 2010
    Hi,
    Before I send the X-over to Ben I wanted to put in a cheap replacement for the wrong part I removed to make sure I did not damage any driver. They still do not sound like they did before I made my mistake. Can someone tell me what the part I removed is?

    I cut the leads almost to the body and have another lead soldered to it in order to make a connection. So that could be why they still sound pretty bad because of a bad connection.

    Halo71, I wanted to upgrade the x-over because they are 26 years old and also with my 504/308 set up the highs can be somewhat harsh around 17,000 Khz (I do not know if that is the correct freq) on some recordings. The upgrades will smooth out that (I HOPE) and also open up the sound stage (I think).

    THANKS EVERYONE.
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,753
    edited January 2010
    Can someone tell me what the part I removed is?

    It is a 12uF 100V capacitor.
    the highs can be somewhat harsh around 17,000 Khz

    The SL2000 has a 5dB spike at 13kHz. Replacing them with the RD0194-1 will solve that issue.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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