RTi6 Crossover Rebuild

jcg85@yahoo.com

Is there any video about the mod?

Costas1975

Hello all,

i might have just damaged the internal cross over circuit from my Rti6. (the price you pay if you have young kids...)
Anyway, I am bi amping the Rti6 from a Yamaha RX A830 . Can in this case bypass completely the internal Rti6 cross over circuit ? i.e connect the amp outputs directly to the cables coming form the internal of the speaker?
cheers
Costas

K_M

Doubt you are "Bi-amping" with the RX A830. A very nice receiver, but how do you have it connected? More info needed please.

What happened first off, more details needed. What is not working that was before.

Why do you believe the crossover is damaged?

tonyb

Best to pull the crossover and visually take a look first and see if you can spot anything burnt up. Could also be you just fried a tweeter from being overdriven. Always a good idea to inspect the crossover before replacing drivers though.

Costas1975

Thank you for your interest. RX A830 has option for bi amping, but it seems that there is no cross over frequency or signal processing:( Same signal to both channels. So using speaker cross over is a must...
The speaker drooped and damaged the connections in the back. (cable was fixed at the stand, so you can imagine....)
Since I can not by pass the cross over I opened the RCL circuit and fix it, somehow... made the short circuit internally and using 1 channel now.
Tested and working fine. Likely no internal components were damaged.

Bit disappointed to find out that the amp is not processing any signal and just duplicates the outputs in bi-amp (but I am new in this, so maybe this is what amps suppose to do?...)

Cheers
Costas

K_M

Know this is an older thread, but still of a relatively current speaker.
Read though all of it a few times, and got the urge to make some changes or experiment some. Forum member "Tuan" gave some ideas, and out of curiosity we tried one of his changes, but did slightly different ideas for some of his other changes.

We used the 15uf (dayton) Instead of the stock 12uf cap as he suggests on the woofer low pass circuit, and found as he suggests it does make a very good difference!

Simply put, it removes a "bit" of the upper range of the woofer near where it meets the tweeter, and reduces the 2k-2.5 khz a slight bit.
In direct comparison to our unmodified other speaker, it was clearly better. A less forward shouty sound, but not drastically changed. It just removed some harshness from some vocals and sounds.

Vocals did not seem overly "Forward" as how they do with the stock 12uf cap.

We then installed a 1 ohm resistor in line with the positive terminal of the tweeter, reducing the tweeter level overall by approximately 1db.

All done taking measurements and comparing with stock unmodified speaker. The changes were fairly small, but were similar to taking the tweeter down about 1db, and reducing the area around 2.5khz about 1.5 db approx.

IN direct comparison with the unmodified speaker there was a small difference in the treble being reduced a bit, and made it more listenable.

None of the changes were drastic, but made the speaker go from overly forward and a bit sizzly sounding to a somewhat tamer easy to listen to version.

Honestly the cap on the woofer made a better difference in long term listening.
I think the reason Polk did not use a larger cap on the woofer (to further reduce the upper mid range) was simply they intended it to sound a bit forward with vocals..

Simply a slightly different voicing.