Crazy idea here...should I just scratch the components and go coaxial??

MCCLIPSE
MCCLIPSE Posts: 176
edited January 2010 in Car Audio & Electronics
what do you think? I really don't want to mount my components tweeter near my mid in the door so should I just go coaxial and not worry about it? Will it sound any worse really? I guess I just always thought components were the way to go but it seems like it can be detrimental depending on where you are able and willing to mount your tweets.
Truck system so far...

2007 Dodge Ram 1500 quad cab Hemi

Kenwood KDC-X492 HU
MM651 coaxials in doors

Family Room:

Panasonic TC-P50G25 50" Plasma
Panasonic DMP-BD655K BDP
XBOX 360 250GB
Harman/Kardon HK3480(on loan)
Monitor 70 Series II
Post edited by MCCLIPSE on

Comments

  • Phillips
    Phillips Posts: 40
    edited January 2010
    Most coaxial speakers can not compete with a component setup. Much better filter performance (crossover), better mid-bass, and usually a better tweeter. Components can typically handle more power. The ability to mount your tweeter and also rotate it to aim were you want can have a positive influence on your sound quality. (tonality, stage, image, etc)

    Put it this way. Even if you do mount the tweeter next to the woofer in the door, it will sound better than a coaxial in the door.

    Again though, there are some coaxials out there that are built like components with full external crossovers that sound great. They are not cheap though.
    polkaudio | the speaker specialists

    Eclipse AVN6620
    Polk SR5250 (passive, 200w x 2)
    Polk SR104 DVC (series, 400w x 1)
    Earthquake 900w.5 (weak link - need upgrade)
    Rockford Fosgate Wiring & Accessories
  • concealer404
    concealer404 Posts: 7,440
    edited January 2010
    Phillips wrote: »
    Most coaxial speakers can not compete with a component setup. Much better filter performance (crossover), better mid-bass, and usually a better tweeter. Components can typically handle more power. The ability to mount your tweeter and also rotate it to aim were you want can have a positive influence on your sound quality. (tonality, stage, image, etc)

    Put it this way. Even if you do mount the tweeter next to the woofer in the door, it will sound better than a coaxial in the door.

    Again though, there are some coaxials out there that are built like components with full external crossovers that sound great. They are not cheap though.

    I've got some old JBL coaxs in this style, they do sound great. :)
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  • Phillips
    Phillips Posts: 40
    edited January 2010
    I've always had detailed hearing (for lack of a better description) in my opinion. For example, my wife cannot tell the difference between a 128 kbit/s MP3 and an an original uncompressed CD. I however can absolutely hear 128 vs 192. It sticks out like a sore thumb to me. I hear high pitched noises around me while other people look at me like I'm retarded. (I'm 29, can hear up 18khz, and can tell something is going on around me at 19khz and 20khz)

    Anyways, sorry for being long winded, some probably cannot hear much difference between a coaxial speaker and a set of components within the same brand and series. Some can.

    Ultimately, it ALWAYS comes down to this. Make YOUR ears happy, not anyone else's. What YOU like is the most important, period. :)
    polkaudio | the speaker specialists

    Eclipse AVN6620
    Polk SR5250 (passive, 200w x 2)
    Polk SR104 DVC (series, 400w x 1)
    Earthquake 900w.5 (weak link - need upgrade)
    Rockford Fosgate Wiring & Accessories
  • arun1963
    arun1963 Posts: 1,797
    edited January 2010
    How your ears and mind process sound is relevant when you're trying to set your stage and image.

    The majority of components would normally sound better than most co-ax's. A really good point source driver would cost a bit, plus while it may give good tonality, you could probably do better on staging and imaging with components.

    From 20-70hz, your ear can't locate the source of sound. If you're really chasing sq and staging and imaging are important, then you want this range to play from the top of your dash firing towards you, because the rest of the sound is. You're not going to get that effect if you hear your sub much higher than 70hz, as above that the sub will get located at the back.

    From 80-300hz your ears are sensitive to phase differences. The same frequency would hit you ears at different times (one speaker is nearer and the other is further). This can partly be corrected by install, but largely its about using time alignment and delaying the sound from the driver closer to you. Hence sound from left and right speakers would reach your ears together. When this happens, your mind locates the sound as coming from the front.

    From 300-800hz your ears are sensitive to both phase and l/r intensity. The later is corrected by independent eq for l/r. Above 1khz Its mostly about l/r intensity.

    Your ears start to locate height above 2khz. So an independent driver, best suited to play this range will normally be preferred. Most component tweets would be much better than the ones that come overhanging or pole mounted on the co-ax mid.

    Where and how you mount the tweets, will help in raising stage height. Height of the tweet install (a-pillar) or its inclination (dash mount) along with the angles at which they are firing, are important while getting a good stage height.

    You want to hear sound in a particular sequence. You first want to hear your sub frequencies followed by your mids together (in phase) and then the tweets together. When you achieve this, you've got your lows mids and highs linked and you're hearing the highs last.

    Your ears locate height based on the tweet range and hearing them last and locating them high, pulls up the entire stage. I remember being taught this and it took me a good bit to understand what it really meant. :)
  • jay27
    jay27 Posts: 105
    edited January 2010
    And don't forget that there are component speakers that come with coaxial mount options like MB Quart, Image Dynamics Chameleon, Boston Acoustics Pro/SPZ, Polk SR, etc.
  • MCCLIPSE
    MCCLIPSE Posts: 176
    edited January 2010
    yeah, it's not the worst option. I went for the DB coax's I bought first thing that I talked myself out of originally and I am thrilled with the sound of them. I'm adding the MM 8" this weekend hopefully or as soon as UPS gets it to my doorstep.
    Truck system so far...

    2007 Dodge Ram 1500 quad cab Hemi

    Kenwood KDC-X492 HU
    MM651 coaxials in doors

    Family Room:

    Panasonic TC-P50G25 50" Plasma
    Panasonic DMP-BD655K BDP
    XBOX 360 250GB
    Harman/Kardon HK3480(on loan)
    Monitor 70 Series II
  • MCCLIPSE
    MCCLIPSE Posts: 176
    edited January 2010
    DAMN this MM 8" sub sounds awesome. It perfectly rounds out the sound in my truck. I couldn't be happier!!!
    Truck system so far...

    2007 Dodge Ram 1500 quad cab Hemi

    Kenwood KDC-X492 HU
    MM651 coaxials in doors

    Family Room:

    Panasonic TC-P50G25 50" Plasma
    Panasonic DMP-BD655K BDP
    XBOX 360 250GB
    Harman/Kardon HK3480(on loan)
    Monitor 70 Series II
  • Installer4life
    Installer4life Posts: 256
    edited January 2010
    Buy the SR's and mount them as a coxial and you will be fine. Cheap components sound just as bad as cheap coaxial's. Spend money on either and you will be fine.
  • MCCLIPSE
    MCCLIPSE Posts: 176
    edited January 2010
    Buy the SR's and mount them as a coxial and you will be fine. Cheap components sound just as bad as cheap coaxial's. Spend money on either and you will be fine.


    One day..One day...I will have the SR's. I plan on deadening the whole truck first before I make a speaker investment like that.
    Truck system so far...

    2007 Dodge Ram 1500 quad cab Hemi

    Kenwood KDC-X492 HU
    MM651 coaxials in doors

    Family Room:

    Panasonic TC-P50G25 50" Plasma
    Panasonic DMP-BD655K BDP
    XBOX 360 250GB
    Harman/Kardon HK3480(on loan)
    Monitor 70 Series II