Opinions on Amplifier Upgrade

Phillips

Hello all. Just joined Polk's forum. I've been reading posts in the forum for about a year now, ever since I bought my front components and sub. I have decent car audio knowledge, so I think I can contribute.

Looking for some opinions on amplifier(s) to replace my existing 5-channel Earthquake. This amp was scavenged from a previous car and works fine, but I know its by far the weak link in my system currently. My system setup is in my signature.

Currently I have the front components setup in a passive bi-amp configuration. Woofers are in the stock location in the door, tweeters are mounted in the A-pillars firing toward the seats. I don't pretend that this amp puts out what it is rated at, so I would guess they are getting around 50x4. The sub-woofer is being ran off the 5th channel, at 8ohms mono. (starving for power I'm sure - maybe getting 300 watts?) I have installed many car audio systems over the years, and as such the install is good. Front doors are deadened with Dynamat, woofers very secure and sealed properly. Tweeters mounted to pillars using the supplied angle mount cups. Sub-woofer in trunk, in a .85 cubic foot box with polyfill. (after displacement)

Budget is not that great right now, but I can wait and buy a better amplifier later on if necessary.

Better to run a 5-channel amp or separate amplifiers? I really want to keep the bi-amp configuration for the components, without it I cannot tame the tweeters enough. I have this setup in a 2008 Impala and I've never had a car this difficult to tune the front stage. The tweeters are harsh when ran off the normal 2 channel setup, at -3db. However, in the back of my mind, I always wonder if the amplifier is causing this issue.

I have 4 gauge power/ground ran, and I do not want to need any more than this. I would like to keep the stock battery and alternator. I wouldn't be against running an accessory battery with an isolator in the trunk, but would prefer not to, so keep that in mind.

I love good sound quality, so I don't want to skimp anywhere. Thanks for your time and opinions!

arun1963

What do you want to achieve after the amp upgrade? The polk 1100.5 is fine or you can look at the pdx 5ch. I prefer seperate 4ch and a mono block, but a 5ch is perfectly fine.

Have you wired the sub to show an 8ohm load to the amp?

Phillips

I want to have more power, cleaner power. Unless someone tells me that this amp is good enough that an upgrade will not help me at all, I would like to replace it eventually as I know its the weakest link in my system.

Why do you prefer a four-channel and mono block to a 5-channel? Better sound quality? Do manufacturers skimp on some things when they combine the amplifiers in one case?

Per my first post, I do have the sub's coils wired in series. I did try parallel, knowing that the amp would likely not handle it well. With minimum gain, it is ok, but when you attempt to turn the gain up, and then the volume up, the vehicle's headlights blink to the bass. Also, the amp would go into protection mode during the summer months.

Thanks for any additional info.

Phillips

What about an Infinity Kappa Five? I can get that for $300. The problem with a lot of five channel amps is that they don't supply the 500-700 watts to the sub-woofer channel that I would like to have for the SR104. The Kappa Five only does 300 watts @ 2ohms. (may not even be 2-ohms mono stable)

arun1963

Phillips wrote: »

I want to have more power, cleaner power. Unless someone tells me that this amp is good enough that an upgrade will not help me at all, I would like to replace it eventually as I know its the weakest link in my system.

Why do you prefer a four-channel and mono block to a 5-channel? Better sound quality? Do manufacturers skimp on some things when they combine the amplifiers in one case?

Per my first post, I do have the sub's coils wired in series. I did try parallel, knowing that the amp would likely not handle it well. With minimum gain, it is ok, but when you attempt to turn the gain up, and then the volume up, the vehicle's headlights blink to the bass. Also, the amp would go into protection mode during the summer months.

Thanks for any additional info.

If youre going the 5 ch route make sure the amp has two seperate power supplies one for the 4ch's and one for the subs. Alternately you can go the seperate route. Any decent brand that puts out clean rated power is fine. The source and the speakers are more important. For now you've got both covered.

Also you dont need the 5-700 watts for a 10" sub. 300 clean watts at 2 ohms would be more than enough. Once you get the new amp/s wire the sub in parallel.

Phillips

Ok, if I go the 5-channel route, I'll have to research the amps I am considering to find out about the separate rails. I'll also have to have a 1-ohm stable sub channel. (which is why I bought a DVC 4-ohm to begin with)

As far as power for the SR104, I will politely disagree with you that 300 watts would be enough. Two coils rated at 700 watts RMS total receiving 300 watts is not going to work for me. As it is, the sub has no headroom and barely keeps up with the SR5250 components up front. I'm sure running the sub in series now (drops power & sensitivity among others things) on this amp that I don't think is very good quality has a lot to do with that however. I would much rather have 700+ on tap so I have some headroom, however, I will settle for 500 from a quality amplifier. I do not want to run another sub. The car has quite a bit to do with it as well, as I put the sub on the back seat as a test and it has plenty of bass at that position. I removed the stock rear speakers in the deck and that helped somewhat. I'm going to take the back seat out again eventually and see if there is anything I can do about allowing more bass without substantially increasing road noise. I would love to have the sub actually flush with the deck facing the windshield, but that would require some fabrication. Something to consider later on.

Once I get the amplifier(s) settled, eventually I want to look into running a processor of some nature, with time alignment and a good EQ. I would want to run active on the components up front at that point, but that is some time down the road.

Thanks arun1963 for your help so far.

Phillips

Ok ok, one more question, and I'll let this post drop.

1. Polk PA200.4 & Polk PA600.1 $294

or

2. Polk PA 1100.5 $335

Which would you choose and why?

arun1963

Of the two, I would go with the 1100.5.

With both options, your sub gets 400rms at 2 ohms. However for an extra $ 41, your sr components would get 4x80 watts i/o 4x50 watts from the 200.4. If I recall the sr's are rated at 100RMS. The pa1100.5 would be a good match for the Sr's. Also, the 600.1 would give you like 400watts at 2 ohms.

No issues in asking questions here. :-)

One other thing, check the dimensions on the pa1100.5 its kinda big. Make sure you have enough install space. No point buying the amp and THEN discovering you cant fit it.

Phillips

Thanks!