RTI A9, Amp Wiring, etc.

tonyb

You won't hear the THD on the Carver. I would question buying any amp with a fan on it, some are more noisey than others and may bother you. Depending of coarse how hard you push it for the fan to kick on. Price may be a tad high for the Adcom given it's age but of the ones you have listed, the Adcom would be the most dependable.

gp4jesus

To Klenop

take a look at Quad's setup using his AVR power section for surrounds; everything else by outboard amps

Hey "Quad"

Yours is the first I've seen, my own* aside, using uses pro gear. I've been toying w/using one or both my FR 1400s to drive a DVC sub. what do you think?
* TDM Sledgehamer 24-CX EXO
tony

klennop

Thanks again guys for all your help!!

On another note here, I am kind of confused. The A9's on the site are listed as 8 Ohm speakers. Now are the drivers in the speakers, etc. actually 4 ohm so when they meet at the separate speaker poles in the back, they turn into an 8 Ohm load because of the jumpers making them wired in Parallel?

See I am really thinking about going for an amplified system now however I am not sure about going with a 3 channel amp to power the front towers and the center. Or going with the 2 channel to just power the towers.

I am looking into the Emotiva line.

XPA-2 TWO CHANNEL AUDIO POWER AMPLIFIER
250 watts RMS x 2 into 8 ohms, 500 watts RMS x 2 into 4 ohms

or

XPA-3 THREE CHANNEL AUDIO POWER AMPLIFIER
200 watts RMS x 3 into 8 ohms | 300 watts RMS x 3 into 4 ohms

The 3 channel amp is actually $200 less than the 2 channel. It would be nice if I could get the towers to use the 4 ohm load and then the center use the 8 ohm yet, just so it wouldn't max out the 3 channel amp. Either way if I got the 3 channel, the most important speakers would be getting at least 200 watts to them.

Otherwise I could go for the 2 channel and spend the extra $200. However I am not sure if that would be the best route because the center channel would be back to only having the receiver power.

Thoughts??

tonyb

It is best to power your front 3 speakers evenly. The XPA-3 will do just fine. It's not the ohms that you should worry about but the current. The more current, the better the speakers will sound.

superjunior

xpa-3 and run the surrounds off the receiver

gp4jesus

klennop wrote: »

I found a used Adcom 555 original model for $300 also. How much better are the newer ones besides a fan and external fuses.

Don't confuse the similar, later, adcom 5500 for the 555 (and its variations; 555II to name one.) I say this because somebody was selling a service on ebay to hot rod them. He prefered the 555 over 5500 series. I'll look for the link if you're interested. If you are interested in an Adcom and NOT planning to hot rod you may want to consider 5503, a 3 channel 5500.

Here's a link to a 555 review

http://www.stereophile.com/solidpoweramps/678/#

5500/5503 review

http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/volume_3_3/v3n3k.html

gp4jesus

Ditto tonyb.

quadzilla

gp4jesus wrote: »

To Klenop

Hey "Quad"

Yours is the first I've seen, my own* aside, using uses pro gear. I've been toying w/using one or both my FR 1400s to drive a DVC sub. what do you think?
* TDM Sledgehamer 24-CX EXO
tony

FR1400s will work fine, but I prefer the Behringer Europower for subs (which I'll be adding soon). They reach down to 5 Hz, the Mackie's only go to 10. You can't run a 2 ohm load in briged mode on either one though.

Also, the Mackies will take a 12 volt fan with no apparently harm. I recommend either the Coolermaster that flows ~45 cfm, or the Silenx that flows about 34 (unless you run them hard, in which case the Coolermaster is a must to keep the airflow up to spec). Both fans will cut the noise by at least 20 db. Either way, if you decide get get rid of them, let me know. I'm thinking about picking up a couple more, since the FR800 is giving me a little trouble.

klennop

OK on another note, what id I wanted to go with an Emotiva setup. Preamp and amps, what would you guys suggest using then as far as their amps? I would like to stay around $2K since a nice AVR and used amp would have been just under that. I am just kind of exploring my options here.

Thanks again for all the help everyone!!

tonyb

If your just exploring your options, then it's endless. Decide if you want a HT system or 2 channel system, do your research and go with it.

klennop

I am going with a system that is used for both. So I want it to be "good" at both.

I guess what I meant as far as exploring my options, I was considering an AVR with an amp or the preamp, amps setup.

I was thinking more twords the Emotiva stuff last night since I am spending over a gran on an AVR, and then an amp on top of that. I thought why not skip the AVR, get the UMC-1 with multiple amps. Hence having all the power I would need and everything should be cleaner and better sounding than the setup with an AVR.

I am just not sure how the amp setup would work to keep it around $2K. The UMC-1 is $700 so I have approx $1300 give or take to use on amps. How would I power everything because I don't need 100watts to the rears. Would I still use the 3 channel for the fronts or go with a 2 channel for the 2 towers and then a 4 channel for the center and surrounds? See what I am saying?

gp4jesus

tonyb wrote: »

It is best to power your front 3 speakers evenly. The XPA-3 will do just fine. It's not the ohms that you should worry about but the current. The more current, the better the speakers will sound.

Again, ditto.

Klenop: Look at Quad's setup. Same brand amp driving LCR. His center (speaker) is a simpler load than the left/right. I don't know all the details of his center. I do know: when you have more/different drivers, you have a more complex load requiring more "juice" to get the job done. His Mackie 800 is nothing to sneeze at

On the topic of receiver/SSP I'm using a Rotel RSP1068. All outboard amplification.

Cheers. Remember to have fun w/this!!

WilliamM2

klennop wrote: »

I am just not sure how the amp setup would work to keep it around $2K. The UMC-1 is $700 so I have approx $1300 give or take to use on amps. How would I power everything because I don't need 100watts to the rears. Would I still use the 3 channel for the fronts or go with a 2 channel for the 2 towers and then a 4 channel for the center and surrounds? See what I am saying?

The XPA-5 is only $799, way below your budget. Or you could get the XPA-3 and UPA-2 for $898.

As far as the UMC-1, I'd hold off on that till they work the bugs out. It will probably be months before you can actually get one anyways, unless you were on the original pre-order list.

hopad

I just bought a Harman/Kardon AVR3600, I am planning to bi-amp my Polk Monitor 70s' with a TPro LZ-1100. A tech at H/K told me to connect the ext amp to the front pre-outs on the AVR and the bottom terminals on the 70s'. Supposedly the ext amp will power the low end and the AVR will power the highs. Does this sound correct to ya'll?

Mike

gp4jesus

originally posted by tonyb
it is best to power your front 3 speakers evenly. The xpa-3 will do just fine. It's not the ohms that you should worry about but the current. The more current, the better the speakers will sound

originally posted by gp4jesus
again, ditto.

Klenop: Look at quad's setup. Same brand amp driving lcr. His center (speaker) is a simpler load than the left/right. I don't know all the details of his center. I do know: When you have more/different drivers, you have a more complex load requiring more "juice" to get the job done. His mackie 800 is nothing to sneeze at

Remember to have fun w/this!!

Yup. they're similar to the RTi A7s or TSi 500s. Consider your execution as a stepping stone to your final destination*. Elsewhere in this thread others mentioned speed*, damping*, & timbre matching when using different brands of amps to power the different parts of a [speaker] system, Monitor 70s in your case. You can do it, it will "work," just keep in mind* the above & what follows.
* "Down the road" consider a smaller TPro amp (same line) to power the top

Phase inversion*. Carefully observe polarity while doing the following. Connect the left channel of your AVR to left "bottom" BP. Connect the right channel of the LZ to the right "bottom" BP. Play some bass heavy music. If bass seems to "come from the center," you're good. If it doesn't, flipping the polarity of one channel should correct it.
* some amps invert phase, some don't. Not an issue if you know how to look for it to correct if needed.
cheers

gp4jesus

Ooops! You'll need RCA splitters to connect both amps.

tonyb

hopad wrote: »

I just bought a Harman/Kardon AVR3600, I am planning to bi-amp my Polk Monitor 70s' with a TPro LZ-1100. A tech at H/K told me to connect the ext amp to the front pre-outs on the AVR and the bottom terminals on the 70s'. Supposedly the ext amp will power the low end and the AVR will power the highs. Does this sound correct to ya'll?

Mike

No, it doesn't. Once you connect an external amp to the pre outs of the receiver, then that amp section of the receiver is no longer used. Your useing m70's, don't waste money, get a decent amp if you want one, preferably not a pro amp, hook it up to the speakers and be done with it. I would change out any brass jumpers on the speakers with good quality speaker wire also.

gp4jesus

tonyb wrote: »

No, it doesn't. Once you connect an external amp to the pre outs of the receiver, then that amp section of the receiver is no longer used. Your useing m70's, don't waste money, get a decent amp if you want one, preferably not a pro amp, hook it up to the speakers and be done with it. I would change out any brass jumpers on the speakers with good quality speaker wire also.

You're right Tonyb, no splitters needed. my bad.

Checked out the LZ. Nothing wrong w/pro-gear in HT. Connection can be "fun." I agree w/Tonyb in this too

Rocco1

tonyb wrote: »

It is best to power your front 3 speakers evenly. The XPA-3 will do just fine. It's not the ohms that you should worry about but the current. The more current, the better the speakers will sound.

Tony can you explain why this is neccessary? What if you have 3 amps 2 500Watt amps for your a9s and a 300watt amp for your center. What is the difference? The speaker will only draw what power it needs??? unless i am wrong.

tonyb

Rocco1 wrote: »

Tony can you explain why this is neccessary? What if you have 3 amps 2 500Watt amps for your a9s and a 300watt amp for your center. What is the difference? The speaker will only draw what power it needs??? unless i am wrong.

At the particular wattage you mention, and thats alot, you most likely would not hear a difference. What I refer to is amping your front left and right and not amping the center. Catch the drift my man ?

quadzilla

I don't agree that you need to have the 3 fronts powered evenly. I would agree that you need to have consistent response on your front 3. I did mine like I did because my amps put out 850 wpc to the RTi12s and 450 to the CSi5, while the speakers are rated at 500 and 250, respectively. Other than the power output, my front 3 amps are identical. I considered going with a 1400 for the center as well, but thought that running the CSi5 @ >300% above its rated power might not work out too well. And while, yes, speakers can generally handle more than their rated power as long as that power is clean, I also know from experience that you can over heat a driver by running too much power through it, as I learned when I ran my RTi12s at 1000 wpc for a while. Only fried one mid driver, so not an overly expensive lesson. Did screw up the sound stage and imaging something fierce though. But for awhile, I had >109 db at the listening position

gp4jesus

>109dB! Well, at least something in your house can hear! I have 300 each* for my LCR plus 300* total out the back. I may hit 100dB+ on peaks during certain movie passages, but wow!
* all Hafler XL 280s

my $.02:
The same rules apply for amps as speakers. LCR* from the same speaker line (Ls, RTi A, etc) Quad's setup: all Mackies** across the front.
* I believe you should follow that for sides/rear as well

and then let's also remember another important issue...

gp4jesus wrote: »

Phase inversion*. Carefully observe polarity ...
* some amps invert phase, some don't. Not an issue if you know how to look for it to correct if needed.

using the same whatever* reduces or eliminates these issues*

gp4jesus

heres a site where you can get some comprehensive bi/tri-amp info

http://sound.westhost.com/bi-amp.htm

http://sound.westhost.com/bi-amp2.htm