How to Clean the Pots of Vintage Gear
Conradicles
Posts: 6,185
Title says it all.
What exactly does it mean to "clean the pots" and how does one go about doing this?
Links or personal experience would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks folks.
What exactly does it mean to "clean the pots" and how does one go about doing this?
Links or personal experience would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks folks.
Post edited by Conradicles on
Comments
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Fill tub with bubble bath, get in, begin cleaning when wife drops gear inside aforementioned bathtub. Check for power cord before or after filling the tub.CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint.
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Speakers: SDA-1C (most all the goodies)
Preamp: Joule Electra LA-150 MKII SE
Amp: Wright WPA 50-50 EAT KT88s
Analog: Marantz TT-15S1 MBS Glider SL| Wright WPP100C Amperex BB 6er5 and 7316 & WPM-100 SUT
Digital: Mac mini 2.3GHz dual-core i5 8g RAM 1.5 TB HDD Music Server Amarra (memory play) - USB - W4S DAC 2
Cables: Mits S3 IC and Spk cables| PS Audio PCs -
This stuff is the shiznit in my eyes! I have used it on guitar pots and amp pots for several years now. Works like a charm!
http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Accessories/Cleaners,_polishes,_lubricants/DeoxIT_Pot_and_Switch_Cleaner.html--Gary--
Onkyo Integra M504, Bottlehead Foreplay III, Denon SACD, Thiel CS2.3, NHT VT-2, VT-3 and Evolution T6, Infinity RSIIIa, SDA1C and a few dozen other speakers around the house I change in and out. -
The process consist of opening your gear to make sure you have access to the back of of the canister (enclosure) of the trim pots. Then locate the small opening that will allow you to inject the cleaner. you can use contact cleaner from Radio Shack or if you have an electronic component provider you could check for MG Chemicals SUPER CONTACT CLEANER 4.5 oz or smaller. Make sure you use the provided straw to inject the product. You then rotate the control many times and check for improvement. If there is no improvement, you start the process all over again. However, at times this will not work and you simply might have to replace the pot as the fine resistive contact which the leaf spring contact rides on may simply be worned and will not make contact in some aeras (just like a run that would be cut on a circuit board). WD40 can also be used but some claims it lives residue odd, I used it for so many times for my customers, never a single complaint or come back.
Good luck!
TKDARE TO SOAR:
Your attitude, almost always determine your altitude in life
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I'm stupid in this matter and i'm about to hit the internet more now. Just spraying the deoxit down the shaft does the trick? do you have to wait 5 hrs. for it to dry or what? I always thought you had to go inside and flood the round part or even open one up to spray it.Going on the google..Most people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them.
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Thanks TK, but I am going to stick with Doro's way of doing it.;)
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When I was in the military we had a sonic bath which was used with special cleaner and yet this could do the cleaning of the electronics in one shot so your joke actually has some form of truth, "reality surpasses fiction" rightFill tub with bubble bath, get in, begin cleaning when wife drops gear inside aforementioned bathtub. Check for power cord before or after filling the tub. ? DARE TO SOAR:
Your attitude, almost always determine your altitude in life -
CAIG DeOxit is the best contact cleaner going.
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=207005 -
Definitely a great step by step post :cool:mhardy6647 wrote: »CAIG DeOxit is the best contact cleaner going.
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=207005DARE TO SOAR:
Your attitude, almost always determine your altitude in life -
I use CAIG exclusively, simply because it works great."Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Puritan Audio PSM136 Pwr Condtioner & Classic PC's | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node3 - Tubes add soul!
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I seems to be a good bang for the buck too, right?I use CAIG exclusively, simply because it works great.DARE TO SOAR:
Your attitude, almost always determine your altitude in life -
Not when you could use it in gallons.~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~
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I don't understand what yo mean, a can of cleaner should last a long time...Not when you could use it in gallons.DARE TO SOAR:
Your attitude, almost always determine your altitude in life -
mhardy6647 wrote: »CAIG DeOxit is the best contact cleaner going.
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=207005
Thanks:DMost people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them. -
I seems to be a good bang for the buck too, right?
It is a bit pricey as far as that stuff goes. Ratshack stuff is cheaper but I have more confidence in the CAIG"Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Puritan Audio PSM136 Pwr Condtioner & Classic PC's | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node3 - Tubes add soul! -
tony millard wrote: »Just spraying the deoxit down the shaft does the trick? do you have to wait 5 hrs. for it to dry or what? I always thought you had to go inside and flood the round part or even open one up to spray it.Going on the google..
On guitar pots I have just sprayed it on the pot without taking it out or apart. On amp pots I take the pot out and opened it up to spray. I even use DeOxit on 1/4" phono plugs.--Gary--
Onkyo Integra M504, Bottlehead Foreplay III, Denon SACD, Thiel CS2.3, NHT VT-2, VT-3 and Evolution T6, Infinity RSIIIa, SDA1C and a few dozen other speakers around the house I change in and out. -
I use Caig all the time. Not only for stereo gear, but pretty much anything electronic where applicable. If you knew me and what I do, you'd understand. The little Caig canisters you get at Rat Shack sometimes only lasts me one night. That gets a little expensive after a while.I don't understand what yo mean, a can of cleaner should last a long time...~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~ -
As they say quality has its price, this is the main reason I always bought MG products over RS products. It is nice to know there is even better product out there now (this is not the first time deoxit has been praised on this site). When you look on CAIG site, they offer both deoxit and CAIG, what is the difference between them?It is a bit pricey as far as that stuff goes. Ratshack stuff is cheaper but I have more confidence in the CAIGDARE TO SOAR:
Your attitude, almost always determine your altitude in life -
I have the DeOxit, but I was wondering how to use it properly to clean the pot. But after reading all of this good info, I get it. Thanks to all.
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However, the longevity of your gear is prolonged not counting the savings of giving the job to a repair shop. I was not abusive when doing such for my clients but labor is usually the expensive part of the tab. Buying the cleaner and DIY gets the product to pay for itself pretty quickly.I use Caig all the time. Not only for stereo gear, but pretty much anything electronic where applicable. If you knew me and what I do, you'd understand. The little Caig canisters you get at Rat Shack sometimes only lasts me one night. That gets a little expensive after a while.DARE TO SOAR:
Your attitude, almost always determine your altitude in life -
^ That is a good point about longevity! I am sure original pots in a collectable vintage amp make it more valuable to a collector.--Gary--
Onkyo Integra M504, Bottlehead Foreplay III, Denon SACD, Thiel CS2.3, NHT VT-2, VT-3 and Evolution T6, Infinity RSIIIa, SDA1C and a few dozen other speakers around the house I change in and out. -
conradicles wrote: »thanks tk, but i am going to stick with doro's way of doing it.;)
LOL
Please make out a living will first....Doro isn't my first name.
CAIG is the nectar of the gods.CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint. -
I agree, keeping/maintaining original parts add to the value not counting that newer (chinese) parts will never last as long and probably not provide for the original quality. I had to replace some drivers in vintage speakers with non OEM because the OEM is no longer available and the quality is definitely not the same. I just hope someday I'll be able to put my hands on used just for the parts. Believe me, once I do, the non OEM modern drivers will be out pretty quickly. When a piece of gear was behong repair, I always made sure to keep the valuable parts (the main reason for my house to be such a mess, thus likely I didn't have the choice to depart with a lot of thoses parts unfortunately)^ That is a good point about longevity! I am sure original pots in a collectable vintage amp make it more valuable to a collector.DARE TO SOAR:
Your attitude, almost always determine your altitude in life -
Conradicles wrote: »I have the DeOxit, but I was wondering how to use it properly to clean the pot. But after reading all of this good info, I get it. Thanks to all.
Just liberally spray the part, work it around as you do so and let it dry. I've had components that needed a couple rounds of cleaning depending on the age. Try to get the nozzle or tube as inside the actual part as possible.CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint. -
Conradicles wrote: »Title says it all.
What exactly does it mean to "clean the pots" and how does one go about doing this?
Lots of good advice so far. Just in case you are wondering what "pots" are, pots is shorthand for potentiometers, which are variable resistors. They are used as volume, balance, and other controls where changing the resistence can change the outcome. They are mechanical, and dirt, etc. can build up over time which negatively affects the resistence. Cleaning is getting rid of the dirt so that good electrical contact is made throughout the range of the pot.Lumin X1 file player, Westminster Labs interconnect cable
Sony XA-5400ES SACD; Pass XP-22 pre; X600.5 amps
Magico S5 MKII Mcast Rose speakers; SPOD spikes
Shunyata Triton v3/Typhon QR on source, Denali 2000 (2) on amps
Shunyata Sigma XLR analog ICs, Sigma speaker cables
Shunyata Sigma HC (2), Sigma Analog, Sigma Digital, Z Anaconda (3) power cables
Mapleshade Samson V.3 four shelf solid maple rack, Micropoint brass footers
Three 20 amp circuits. -
.. When you look on CAIG site, they offer both deoxit and CAIG, what is the difference between them?
Caig is the brand name, Deoxit is the product line name. Caig makes deoxit.____________________
This post is a natural product. The slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and in no way are to be considered flaws or defects.
HT:Onkyo 805, Emotiva XPA-5, Mitsu 52" 1080p DLP / polkaudio RTi12, CSIa6, FXi3, uPro4K
2-chnl : Pio DV-46AV (SACD), Dodd ELP, Emotiva XPA-1s, XPA-2, Odyssey Khartago, LSi9, SDA-SRS 2 :cool:, SB Duet, MSB & Monarchy DACs, Yamaha PX3 TT, SAE Tuner...
Pool: Atrium 60's/45's -
In a thread at DIYAudio regarding my DIY repair of an Adcom 5800, I mentioned that while I had all the parts out I used Deoxit Gold on all the connection points, such as where the B+ and B- rail wires connect to the driver/MOSFET output stages or where the output connects to the actual speaker out binding posts (blade style connectors). I was about to also use it on all the MOSFET leads too.
I gathered from Anatech's responses that one should NEVER use any kind of treatments on the higher voltage or current connections. That whatever is used should leave ZERO residue.Clean every trace of your contact cleaner out of the sockets or connectors. They, like power relay contacts, must be both clean and dry. There should be no films or anything else applied to them. The product you need to use is something like Electrowash PX or similar. It needs to attack greases and oils, wash them out and leave no (as in zero) residue. This is very important. Why? Because any film or coating may oxidize or arc. This will build up a non-conductive film that promotes arcing.
So what are 'yall' thoughts? Is he more or less concerned only with the internals of an amp? Is it safe or even recommended to use DeOxit Gold on Speaker connections (binding posts and cables, etc), or only on the RCAs?
What about on the prongs on an AC cord?____________________
This post is a natural product. The slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and in no way are to be considered flaws or defects.
HT:Onkyo 805, Emotiva XPA-5, Mitsu 52" 1080p DLP / polkaudio RTi12, CSIa6, FXi3, uPro4K
2-chnl : Pio DV-46AV (SACD), Dodd ELP, Emotiva XPA-1s, XPA-2, Odyssey Khartago, LSi9, SDA-SRS 2 :cool:, SB Duet, MSB & Monarchy DACs, Yamaha PX3 TT, SAE Tuner...
Pool: Atrium 60's/45's -
Here's an interesting post about a negative to using Deoxit on pots. Well not completely, but requires extra steps.
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showpost.php?p=2458122&postcount=21____________________
This post is a natural product. The slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and in no way are to be considered flaws or defects.
HT:Onkyo 805, Emotiva XPA-5, Mitsu 52" 1080p DLP / polkaudio RTi12, CSIa6, FXi3, uPro4K
2-chnl : Pio DV-46AV (SACD), Dodd ELP, Emotiva XPA-1s, XPA-2, Odyssey Khartago, LSi9, SDA-SRS 2 :cool:, SB Duet, MSB & Monarchy DACs, Yamaha PX3 TT, SAE Tuner...
Pool: Atrium 60's/45's -
One does have to be a little careful with DeOxit, but one should be careful with everything under the hood of a piece of audio equipment, vintage or new.
Here's my little DeOxit testamonial, FWIW. I have an old McIntosh C-28 preamp (it's really pretty mediocre; stick with vacuum tubed Mac stuff if you can). The function selector switch was dirty. I used Radio Shack's contact cleaner on it several times, but the phono sections of the switch were iffy at best. After reading a lot on line about DeOxit, I ordered a can from Parts Express and tried it on the C-28. It worked like a charm. Never bothered with any other contact cleaner (even name brands such as GC) since. -
Everyone is correct. De-Oxit is the hot ticket. They also make a fader lube. Good general practice to lessen cleaning intervals is approx. every 2 weeks ( un-powered ) FULLY rotate knobs both directions to the mechanical stops about twice. Keeps oxidation from building up in 1 spot.
