Putting subs in my seatbacks. What do you think?

MCCLIPSE

Hey, I'm thinking about putting subs in my seats in the backrest. They will be 8's and I was wondering if anyone had tried this before. How do ya'll think it would work.

chu

Works great, you just have to secure the box so it won't move out of place.

TECHNOKID

Why not butt kickers instead?

MCCLIPSE

I actually just changed my mind and I'm going with DB6500 midbass 6.5's in the seatbacks. I'm just gonna mount them free air basically in the back of the seat. I'm gonna give em 60 watts RMS on low pass and I should get a nice midbass punchy sound. I'll add the subwoofer later on when I can afford it. I'll post pics once it's all installed. I'm hoping it'll all be in a couple of weeks

chu

Good call, no need to rush if you can't afford to do it. In a couple weeks time you may change your mind and do a whole different setup hehe. I'm curious are you just running the 6.5 or do you have 2 sets of components?

TECHNOKID

MCCLIPSE wrote: »

I actually just changed my mind and I'm going with DB6500 midbass 6.5's in the seatbacks. I'm just gonna mount them free air basically in the back of the seat. I'm gonna give em 60 watts RMS on low pass and I should get a nice midbass punchy sound. I'll add the subwoofer later on when I can afford it. I'll post pics once it's all installed. I'm hoping it'll all be in a couple of weeks

Cool!

MCCLIPSE

chu wrote: »

Good call, no need to rush if you can't afford to do it. In a couple weeks time you may change your mind and do a whole different setup hehe. I'm curious are you just running the 6.5 or do you have 2 sets of components?

I'm doing just midbass in the seats. They're from a component set but I'm just using the mids and I'll tune it with the crossover on my amp. The front doors will be DB650 coaxial 6.5's in the normal spot. And since I got a deal on some DB1000 tweeters, I'm gonna put those up in the side mirror panels above the door panel. I'm just gonna run a bass blocker to those and power them with the HU at 22 rms. And to finish it up I'm putting old EX402 Polk 4" coax's in the rear panel spot and running those off the HU. It's a weird little setup but it'll come out nice I think, considering I'll have in essence 4 separate sets of Polk speakers in a single cab Sierra work truck. Should be nice and LOUD!!

arun1963

A pair of mid-bass in the back seat, a pair of coax's in the front door, a pair of tweets in the sail panel and a pair of 4" on the rear deck. Thats 4 pairs of speakers. What's the point of having the extra db's, if there's no cohesion in the sound? Just a thought.

MCCLIPSE

yeah, it will be interesting setting it all up and I'm just as curious as anyone else how it will sound but I got everything so cheap I figured I'll try it like this and start adjusting from there. I'm confident with some tweaking it'll be a great sq setup.

arun1963

I was trying to make a different point but.......anyways good luck with the install and tuning.

MCCLIPSE

I think I know what you mean, but I don't trust the coaxials in the doors to give me the midbass I want, and since I'm limited on space to install a sub without fabrication that I'm not ready to do yet, I'm gonna use the DB mids to handle bass and midbass. I just want that extra bass fill without the sub right now. I'm not positive it'll come out right, but I'm hoping. I'll keep updating my posts with install pics and progress reports as I go

tk421

wtf...

*in* your seat??? well whatever rocks your boat pappy...

if u do go with a sub, pls remember that seats are designed for a certain max weight.

Installer4life

interesting idea but so the the AMC Pacer......

MCCLIPSE

Installer4life wrote: »

interesting idea but so the the AMC Pacer......

Pacers are sweet!!!!! JK I'm probably installing everything this week and should have it all done by next week at latest. I will be sure to let everyone know how it came out since everyone including myself seems to be a little skeptical about how it will sound.

MCCLIPSE

I've done some stereo soul searching I'm changing my mind, no mids in the seatbacks anymore. I'm just gonna build a custom center console box with a downfiring 10" sub. No extra tweeters either. I'll be putting this stuff up for sale and buying my 10 with the proceeds

arun1963

you've seen the light, thats good.

Like Mac said in your other thread, first option would be to get a new HU and go active. The second option is to get xovers for your db set and bi-amp passively ie bi-amp with the xovers. Bi-amping allows you to tune each driver seperately.

In active mode, you're bi-amped without the xover. You would set the xover points, sub to mid and mid to tweet, from your HU. This gives you great flexibility while tuning. It also lets you cross your mids and tweets higher. Most passive xovers would split the signal between mids/tweets around 2.5-3khz. Which means the tweet is playing down to like 1khz. That's a heavy load on a 1" driver. The 50hz-4.5-5khz is best played by your mid driver and the tweets and mids should blend over the 2.5khz to 6khz range. If you go this route and buy a new HU, make sure it has Time Alignment, which you will need to get your 5 drivers in phase. This will let you hear the sound from the front, like you would with your home 2ch. A good eq that lets you set 10-12 frequencies independently for left / right ch is great for setting your stage and imaging.

With a normal passive xover this would be about 1khz to 4khz range. This can cause the tweet to sound overly bright. If you don't want to spend the $$ on the hu you should invest in a set of passive xovers and bi-amp.

Based on your needs, you have to decide on how much $$ and time you want to spend

MCCLIPSE

yeah, I was planning on bi-amping direct from the amp and then using the built in crossovers. I think I can get away with that pretty easy. I think my Kenwood HU has pretty in depth crossover and eq so I'll play with it today and see if I can control everything with the HU, if not, the amps crossovers will be alright I think. I'd like to have the original set of DB crossovers themselves but they're kinda hard to find. Could I go with another set of passive xovers? Are they all really set the same?

arun1963

Your kenwood allows you to select your sub/mid xover point By selecting the low pass for the sub and the hpf for your db's. But you need the passive to split the mids and high. You cant do it at your amp.

Have you tried calling CS or the 'buy direct' line? Yes, you can use other passives and no, all passive xovers are not set the same. However, I have a feeling that you're waiting for me to say yes, so that you can bag a pair for $40, from some online site. . Don't, chances are it will be a crappy pair. Cause its poorly designed and has cheap components inside. You'll have crappy sound and you could potentially damage your drivers. So I'm going to say no.

Companies that make decent speakers would make/source decent xovers as well. They may cost a bit more than the junk, but its money well spent. So either get the db pair or look for a decent brand, even if you're looking at used.

MCCLIPSE

alright, well I'm kinda tired of worrying about it right now, I'll get a pair of polk crossovers as soon as I see some online for cheap. It sucks having a meager budget.