Right channel on Luxman M-117 amp comes out of both speakers

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Comments

  • headrott
    headrott Posts: 5,496
    edited December 2009
    F1nut wrote: »
    DO NOT switch your amp to bridged mode!

    The left channel in the Luxman is dead. Since you own SDA's, even though the left amp channel is dead with the SDA cable connected the left speaker will still produce some sound because of the crosstalk signal from the right speaker.

    Check for a bad external or internal left channel fuse. If the fuse is good, it may have a bad left channel relay. Anything more than that and it's not worth messing with. Since you already got a refund, throw it out with the trash.

    Thanks for the advice of not switching the amp to bridged mode, I did not because I had a feeling that was not the problem. Of course! I didn't even think about the SDA effect comming through on the left channel! Thank you F1nut! That makes sense.

    What does not make sense is the fact that the gain adjustment for the right channel adjusts the gain while using both the variable RCA jacks AND the fixed jacks. The fixed should be just that right? The gain should not change while using those inputs, correct?

    Sorry for posting in 2 forums
    Relayer-Big-O-Poster.jpg
    Taken from a recent Audioholics reply regarding "Club Polk" and Polk speakers:
    "I'm yet to hear a Polk speaker that merits more than a sentence and 60 seconds discussion." :\
    My response is: If you need 60 seconds to respond in one sentence, you probably should't be evaluating Polk speakers.....


    "Green leaves reveal the heart spoken Khatru"- Jon Anderson

    "Have A Little Faith! And Everything You'll Face, Will Jump From Out Right On Into Place! Yeah! Take A Little Time! And Everything You'll Find, Will Move From Gloom Right On Into Shine!"- Arthur Lee
  • heiney9
    heiney9 Posts: 25,165
    edited December 2009
    Great catch Jesse! I guess no one realized or paid attention to the fact that he had SDA's and the dimensional drivers in the opposite channel were what was giving the sound.

    Sort of a DUH moment now that I look back on it :)

    H9
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul!
  • headrott
    headrott Posts: 5,496
    edited December 2009
    OK, I found out the problem with the M-117 amp. That dent in the rear by the left channel binding post put a crack through the speaker terminal board. It runs 3/4 of the way through it. It only affected the left channel, but not the right. I will take it out and try to re-solder the connections to see if I can get the left channel to work again. It will need a new board though. Does anyone have ideas on where to get one (other than buying a non-working M-117)?
    Relayer-Big-O-Poster.jpg
    Taken from a recent Audioholics reply regarding "Club Polk" and Polk speakers:
    "I'm yet to hear a Polk speaker that merits more than a sentence and 60 seconds discussion." :\
    My response is: If you need 60 seconds to respond in one sentence, you probably should't be evaluating Polk speakers.....


    "Green leaves reveal the heart spoken Khatru"- Jon Anderson

    "Have A Little Faith! And Everything You'll Face, Will Jump From Out Right On Into Place! Yeah! Take A Little Time! And Everything You'll Find, Will Move From Gloom Right On Into Shine!"- Arthur Lee
  • Polkersince85
    Polkersince85 Posts: 2,883
    edited December 2009
    You could just try soldering a jumper wire from point A to point B.
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    >This message has been scanned by the NSA and found to be free of harmful intent.<
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,565
    edited December 2009
    If the traces are damaged and it seems like they are, you don't need to replace the board. After repairing the crack on the none trace side with a good adhesive like epoxy, you can solder solid core wire on top of the traces to restore continuity.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • headrott
    headrott Posts: 5,496
    edited December 2009
    OK, I will try to solder the wire to restore the continuity. Do you think the epoxy will keep the board from cracking more even over years? To give you an idea of how badly it's cracked; 3 of the 4 corners of the board were broken off where they are screwed onto the back of the amp.
    Relayer-Big-O-Poster.jpg
    Taken from a recent Audioholics reply regarding "Club Polk" and Polk speakers:
    "I'm yet to hear a Polk speaker that merits more than a sentence and 60 seconds discussion." :\
    My response is: If you need 60 seconds to respond in one sentence, you probably should't be evaluating Polk speakers.....


    "Green leaves reveal the heart spoken Khatru"- Jon Anderson

    "Have A Little Faith! And Everything You'll Face, Will Jump From Out Right On Into Place! Yeah! Take A Little Time! And Everything You'll Find, Will Move From Gloom Right On Into Shine!"- Arthur Lee
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,565
    edited December 2009
    Epoxy is very strong stuff, but there are different qualities of epoxy products and the best repair method will vary. For the best repair possible I use West Marine epoxy products, but they are not cheap.

    For a cheaper approach to your situation I would suggest using one of the 5 minute epoxy products and fiberglass cloth. Cut the cloth to size first, then apply a layer of epoxy to the damaged area. Next, lay the cloth over the epoxy and press/rub it so that the epoxy starts to soak into the cloth. Working quickly, apply more epoxy on top of the cloth. Do one damaged area at a time.

    When you've done all 3 areas, let it all harden up for 24 hours before reinstalling. Done right, you will never have another problem with the damaged areas.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • bluecomet
    bluecomet Posts: 1,118
    edited December 2009
    I had a feeling the problem was where the dent was and bingo, cracked board. I doubt if that happened during shipping. The seller was unloading that amp. I hope you get the refund, fix the amp and enjoy the amp for years to come. If it all works out you will get the amp for the price of fixing the board and shipping. It may turn out to be a great deal for you. Good luck.
    Polk HT system 1: LSIC, LSI25 mains, LSI F/X rears, Lsi F/X rear centers,
    Yamaha RX-V2500 System, Carver A753 3 channel amp.

    Polk HT system 2: , SRT system with f/x 1,000's rear speakers on 7.1 system currently using Onkyo TX-RZ820 receiver, powered by Sunfire Grand Theater amp

    Polk Speaker collection: SDA SRS 1.2tl x 2, SRT system, SDA SRS 2 P/B, SDA 2A, SDA 1C Studio, SDA CRS+, Monitor 7B & 4, SRS 3.1tl, RTA 15tl, LS90, LSI 9