5 channel Amps ?

billz428

I would like some input on 5 channel amps from -

Polk Audio PA1100.5

PowerBass ASA 1100.5x

Infinity KAPPA FIVE

Kicker 08ZX700.5

Hifonics ZXi 8010

My Alpine PDX-5 is clean sounding, just lacking in the thump dept.
I sold my old Alpine F353 as it was getting old and I wanted more thump.

My system is Alpine 9813 HU, Alpine PDX-5 amp, Polk DB 6.75 componets,Polk DB coaxails 4x6 rears, 2-10" Polk MOMO subs @ 2ohm, in a down firing box in a 98 GMC ext cab truck.
120 amp alternator, large conventional battery, 1frad cap, 8 ga power wire.

billz428

I would also like to add

US AMPS AX 5600

Budget of $300.00 to $400.00

bigaudiofanatic

Look at the alpine pdx 5 simply a sick little amp. I actually prefer it over the JL. I have used both in some installs in 370z's I like the alpine better also they are about the same size but the JL is way more. Look on woofersetc.com for a good price. I am not a fan of us amps as they seem to have went down hill. If I had to select one amp from your chosen ones I would say either the polk or infinity. I use to have a 6 channel infinity and I enjoyed it it is now a friends and still running well.

Installer4life

Don't like the Infinity or the power Bass, Kicker is good, my experience with Hifonics is they are noisy amplifiers. Polk is probably good but PDX 5 is better than all listed. You might want to increase power wire to 4 guage and lose the cap. Not needed. What is the airspace on the subwoofers?

concealer404

Wouldn't you be able to find a Memphis Belle in that price range?

JoshParsons84

+1 on the Alpine. IMO Alpine makes the cleanest sounding amps out there. Keep your 5-channel and get ya an Alpine mono amp. Woofersetc.com has PDX-1.600 for $340 right now with free shipping. Pretty good deal on a very solid amp. Your MOMO's would come alive and then you could put more power on your comp. up front. Def upgrade your wire to nothing less than 4 guage 0/1 guage would actually be best. Other than that sounds to me like you've got a very decent stereo in your truck. Congrats!

bigaudiofanatic

Josh you need to hear a audison amp lol simply the sexiest amps out there from what I have owned and heard. I had a set of momos that sounded good than I got a audison amp OMG sounded so good.

billz428

Thanx for the help guys.
4 ga. will put in as soon weather permits.
Air space for each woofer is .95 cu ft.

bigaudiofanatic I already have the PDX -5 .
I had the Alpine MRFV 353 5channel, great sound, just wanted more power for a 2ohm load from the subs.
I bought the PDX-5 , then sold the 353.

Why lose the CAP?

I,m really favoring the POLK , then US Amps,third Kicker, .

I really like the appearance of the PowerBass, but I can`t afford to experiment.

The box http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/Shop/Control/Product/fp/vpid/4497461/vpcsid/0/SFV/30046

bigaudiofanatic

The cap is jsut a band aid to a bigger problem. IF your lights are dimming than you need to upgrade your electricle by doing either the big 3 or by getting a small second battery.

billz428

No dimming lights, just had it and thought I would put it to good use.
The Big 3 was done a long time ago.
I get a lot of questions about that one!

bigaudiofanatic

Ya you do not need it.

Jstas

I have a 5 channel Hifonics amp and it's clean as a whistle. I'd buy another one.

I also have a 5 channel Kenwood eXcelon amp and that too is spectacular.

If you are going for a 5 channel, make sure that it has discrete power supplies for the A class and D class respectively. My Kenwood has 3 discrete power supplies, one A class for front channels, one A class for rear channels and one D class for the sub channel. The Hifonics has two. One dual rail for the A class and one for the D class.

Of course these kind cost more than the cheaper 5 channels that use a single power supply but it's worth it.

As far as what you have listed, I wouldn't have a problem getting the Hifonics at all. But for top honors it's a toss up between the Polk and the Alpine.

Topper

the PA1100.5's got 600w rms to the sub section . A real beast .

arun1963

I'd second changing the power wire first. 0/1 gauge. That should make an immediate difference and each sub would get about 150 watts. Good for presence but may be a bit less for thump. After changing the wire, if you still want more thump, then yes a seperate mono amp would be best.

I think most of the good brands have already been covered, I would just add Genesis to that list. However, you can't go wrong with either Polk or Alpine like John mentioned. The pa600.1 would give 200 watts to each sub and the 1200.1 would give each sub 400watts. The momo 10's are rated for around 300watts rms I think.

Are you using the time alignment function on your deck? Running your speakers in phase would also help.

bigaudiofanatic

I am not a fan of those hifonics. Very noisy and hissy not really built for quality just built to get as loud as possible.

Also OP if you are looking for a run of 0 gauge I have a 16 ft run of knu wire. I would sell dirt cheap. Say 45 shipped?

billz428

Thanx every one .
I will up-grade the power cable, then recheck the settings in my deck.
The 9813 has many features, parametric EQ , crossovers, Time delay.

The Polks call for .65 cu ft box and now they have .95 cu ft.

I will also try some bass heavy music too.

I,m looking for SQ , not SPL or Rap boom.

arun1963

If each sub is getting 0.95cuft, its about 45% larger than the recommended size. That's a lot. The subs would be boomy. If the total box size is 0.95cuft then each sub is getting like 0.4cuft, it about 30% smaller than it should be. This would lower the output of the sub and you'd miss the low end. Normally, a +/- 10% difference from recommended specs is ok. My 12" momo is an a sealed, 0.8cuft enclosure.

So yeah, change the power cable, get the enclosure size right and come back and we'll do the tuning bit. If you're chasing SQ, I would also suggest that you ditch the rears. Just run the front comps and the subs. You can get by without the rears in your truck.

Best wishes for the holidays.

billz428

Each sub is getting .95 cu ft.
This is an extended cab truck and the rears are just faded into to be heard but not really located.
Thanx and Happy Holidays.

MacLeod

.95 isnt necessarily too big a box. It actually may give you a flatter response curve. You can use the T/S parameters to see but normally the manufacturers recommended box specs give you a slight bump in the 40 Hz range. While this isnt ideal, 95% of people like it because it gives the sub more impact.

arun1963

Mac : Yes most specs from manufacturers would bump a bit in the 40-50 range. Thats why I pinch down on 50hz from my eq to -1/-1 while 20 and 31.5 are flat. However I would think that increasing the box size by nearly 50% would push this bump point to 100hz range, which in turn would make the sub boomy.

Not contradicting just wanting to learn......

billz428

Should I add 500 cu inches of some dense material to shrink the box volume?
I,m one of those 95% of people like it because it gives the sub more impact.:p
I,m thinking some of the blue dense Styrofoam for Home Depot.

12x12x12=1728 cu inches=1 cu ft.
.95 cu ft = 1641 cu inches.
.65 cu ft=1123 cu inches 1641-1123=518 cu inches of material to add.
Is my math correct?:o

I should start a thread for box tuning :cool: before I replace the amp!

arun1963

I have this bad habit about think of one thing and writing something else.

The air inside your sub box acts as a damper which controls how far the cone can move. When the box gets too big, the volume of air increases and this reduces the damping on the cone. The cone can now move more and hence it plays louder. But because the movement of the cone is less controlled the sub bass is boomier. Thats the theory.

HOWEVER if Mac says 0.95 is fine then its fine. Leave it alone.

BTW are the subs in a sealed or ported encl?

billz428

Sealed.
This is the box below, for the money spent I,m really impressed.
http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/Shop/Control/Product/fp/vpid/4497461/vpcsid/0/SFV/30046