Will this work?

RSTERN

I have a lincoln mark 8, running mm 6501 in the front doors. Instead of running subs in the trunk, I thought about putting these in the rear location http://www.edesignaudio.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_21&products_id=33 . Will these fill in the lower end or am I wasting time. Never heard a 6.5 sub

Thanks
Rob

RuSsMaN

The Q leans to a small sealed box for that speaker - if the 'rear location' is the back deck, I'd say no.

concealer404

It'll work... it IS made to work in an infinite baffle setup, but certainly not ideal for this sub.

You'd get better results with a traditional box.

RSTERN

Accually the rear location is located on the side right above the armrest. So the speaker is almost at your side.

concealer404

RSTERN wrote: »

Accually the rear location is located on the side right above the armrest. So the speaker is almost at your side.

Is there an enclosure back there already?

RSTERN

Its the stock location. I think it is a 5x7 opening

arun1963

Using a 6.5" driver designed for playing 50-5,000 hz and then using it to play 20-80hz, is asking for a bit much. The 6.5 mid would roll off around 40hz. Seakers that play the sub bass are designed slightly differently. So while there are 7"subs, the mm6501 mid is not one.

The 6501 mid is designed to play in a small sealed box. Your door. It is not designed to play in IB. If you want more bass, get a good sub. Infinite baffle mounts (e.g. on your rear deck), are good for SPL quality bass. Depends on what you want.

concealer404

Is there an enclosure behind the opening?

RSTERN

Here is a link to a picture of location http://www.dftowel.com/lscsale/Images/lscsale-12.jpg

concealer404

arun1963 wrote: »

Using a 6.5" driver designed for playing 50-5,000 hz and then using it to play 20-80hz, is asking for a bit much. The 6.5 mid would roll off around 40hz. Seakers that play the sub bass are designed slightly differently. So while there are 7"subs, the mm6501 mid is not one.

The 6501 mid is designed to play in a small sealed box. Your door. It is not designed to play in IB. If you want more bass, get a good sub. Infinite baffle mounts (e.g. on your rear deck), are good for SPL quality bass. Depends on what you want.

He's talking about using the eD 6.5 driver in the rear, not the 6501.

concealer404

RSTERN wrote: »

Here is a link to a picture of location http://www.dftowel.com/lscsale/Images/lscsale-12.jpg

Is there an enclosure behind the opening? Gotta answer my question before i can give you a good answer.

RSTERN

no it is open to the body panels

concealer404

RSTERN wrote: »

no it is open to the body panels

Ok then it's going to act as an IB setup. Which, as eD says, WILL be ok, but not ideal.

Will it give you more bass than running 6501s on those same locations? Absolutely. Are you better off just putting a normal speaker back there and building a simple box for a sub? Definitely.

arun1963

concealer404 wrote: »

He's talking about using the eD 6.5 driver in the rear, not the 6501.

oops!!! Yeah should have read the original post better.

Jstas

Actually, yeah, the pockets do open to the body panels. There is probably a baffle back there but it's flimsy and on the other side is your outside body panel. The drivers could work there but you are going to have to do a fair bit of work with either spacers or panel surgery to fit a 6.5 inch driver in there.

You're better off going with something like this Tang-Band:

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=264-891&ctab=1#Tabs



Or this SB Acoustics driver from Madisound:

http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=8675



Both handle about 50 watts but can dig deep enough to give you decent bass output. They will perform about as well as a 6.5" subwoofer in the frequency range department but much less likely to be harsh sounding due to size like a 6.5" subwoofer with heavy cones and thick surrounds would.

This Morel will handle 100 watts and digs as deep as the Tang-Band above:

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=297-062



None of those will break the bank. But granted, they aren't $40 each either. If you want to hit that price point, though you're gonna have to go find Pyle, Jensen, Lanzar and Pyramid stuff. They have plenty of 5" speakers that will make noise. And honestly, your hot rod Lincoln there deserves better than eD or Pyle or Lanzar. Believe me, I had a Thunderbird and a friend had a Mark VIII as well and I stuffed both of them full of good, quality components and the reward was quite nice. They are vaults inside. Very quiet and comfortable with plenty of factory sound deadening and no hard, flat surfaces for crazy reflections. Everything is either covered in leather, cloth or textured and padded vinyl. They are prime rides for nice audio. Make the effort, and put the good stuff in and you will be handsomely rewarded.

Oh, BTW, a single, good 10" sub like an SR or even the MM series from Polk audio in a small, sealed enclosure, mounted side ways in the trunk on the passenger side with the driver facing the driver's side will outperform any number of subs you want to put in stock locations. I tested the 6.5" sub theory. Even tried building decent spacers for 6" and 8" subs and nothing came out acceptable. I ended up using components mounted on a plate in that location.

I had an old dB10 in a .65 cubic foot sealed enclosure in that location in my Thunderbird being powered by a simple 200 watt Kenwood amp and it performed well enough that people were surprised it wasn't something bigger. The Mark VIII had a rear facing box with two 12" Earthquake subs and ports vented through the back deck in to the passenger compartment. It certainly went boom but I thought the single Polk 10 was cleaner and more precise.


As far ad eD goes, to hell with them. They will never get a single cent of my money, ever. I don't care how nice the driver might be. The owner is a **** and the fanbase is a bunch of mindless, slobbering zombies.

RSTERN

Jstas, you are right about being built like a vault, I love the sound of the mm in the door. I was just trying to keep the sound inside, wasn't sure if i put a sub in the truck I would get the bass I wanted, NO BOOM BOOM, plus trying to keep is as quiet as possible on the outside. I have a db1212 in a ported cabinet and a spare SVS driver I could build something for. Have a pa1200.1 to drive this sub.
How loud will the sub be on the outside?
Rob

Jstas

Honestly, it'll be as loud as you want to play it.

But I would seriously go sealed instead of ported. The sub will dig deeper and with all that airspace in that massive trunk, it will be able to boom as well...if you want it to.

But my Thunderbird, you could barely hear that sub outside the car at normal listening levels. If I had some of the older hip hop stuff with the heavy, drum machine beats or a bass tape/CD on, it would send out some low frequencies that could be heard a good deal away though.

But as far as sounding offensive like the kids in the Honduh Civics, no, it won't be. Not with a single sub in a sealed enclosure with 200-300 watts. You could push it loud but what's the point? Jam the sub in there, set the x-over around 80 Hz and let it go to town. It'll kick fine through the back seat and honestly the stock speaker locations have tons of air space behind them as well so low end response should fill in quite nicely.

The thing is though, if you want clean, accurate bass that you can hear in a car, you need a decent amount of power on a decent sub. While your listening levels might not require it, you want that power there as extra over-head so that the sub movement can be controlled by the amp instead of getting sloppy and boomy. Big power provides better control. That's over simplifying it but the rest of the things you need for good control often go hand in hand with big power...provided you have a quality amplifier. That's also why I like sealed enclosures over ported. Sealed enclosures are tight and controlled and lend themselves to accurate response over a wide frequency range. They also tend to be more musical in their presentation and you can even fudge the crossover point a little high on them and get away with it because the accuracy of the enclosure can end up being very forgiving with installation compromises.

If you want big boom though, you need some serious gear. My friend's Mark VIII would rattle windows 50 yards away. But he had he 12" Earthquakes with about 450 watts each. That was loud and offensive.

RSTERN

Definitely want tight accurate bass. Will the SVS driver do it in a sealed enclousre? Was thinking 1 cubic ft. Or do I need to look at a different sub

Jstas

RSTERN wrote: »

Definitely want tight accurate bass. Will the SVS driver do it in a sealed enclousre? Was thinking 1 cubic ft. Or do I need to look at a different sub

It'll depend on how much trunk space you want to lose.

I like the 10's because they are small and usually need less than .8 cubic feet for a box so they don't take up a ton of space either.

MacLeod

That DB 12 would be perfectly fine for your application especially powered off a 1200.1

As for hearing it outside the car - if youre only going to be listening to music then youll want to low pass the sub at 63 Hz and once its level matched properly, you really wont be getting that much output from it. The subs you hear outside of cars are the ones playing rap with their 80-125 Hz notes pounding. Place it up against the back seat and fire it to the rear and play with polarity.

RSTERN

well as soon as the leg gets better I will get out and try it out, Thanks guys
Rob

Jstas

MacLeod wrote: »

That DB 12 would be perfectly fine for your application especially powered off a 1200.1

As for hearing it outside the car - if youre only going to be listening to music then youll want to low pass the sub at 63 Hz and once its level matched properly, you really wont be getting that much output from it. The subs you hear outside of cars are the ones playing rap with their 80-125 Hz notes pounding. Place it up against the back seat and fire it to the rear and play with polarity.

No dude, in those cars facing sideways is the best way. The trunks are huge and you need the corner loading to help pressurize the space. Trust me. I rocked a T-bird from 1997 to 2001 and even competed with it when I first got it.

The only reason I would suggest an 80 Hz crossover point is due to use. At highway speeds, the car is quite quiet but there can be noise cancellation from what little road noise does exist from the rather large rubber the car rolls on. I found that anything below 70 Hz was wasting my time.