DIY Project - Sub Design Plans for use with Polk Passive Radiators Speakers and SDA's
TNTsTunes
Posts: 751
I'm working on a sub design to match my Yamaha RX-V3000 8.1 system. All of my speakers are Polks with passive radiators.
Here is my system
Yamaha RX-V3000 8.1 reciever
Front Speakers: SDA-1's powered by a Yamaha MX-830 amplifier
Center Speakers: Polk Model 10's in a custom enclosure Onkyo A-8017 integrated amplifier
Front Effects Speakers Polk Model 7 in a custom enclosure powered by an Adcom GFA-535 amplifier.
Rear Polk SDA-CRS's in a custom enclosure powerd by a Yamaha M-70 amplifier in a custom enclosure with the heavy RTA-11 passive radiator which is powered by the reciever.
Rear center channel Polk Model 5's
Beringer EP1500 amp for the subwoofers.
Sony 400 disc CD changer using optical input.
Insignia Blu-Ray Disc Player using optical input.
Panamax MAX-1500 line conditioner.
I also have an unused Yamaha P2250C amplifier not in use and a couple EQ's if they are really needed.
My listening room is a 24'x24' Garage/Mancave with horrible accoustics.
I'm designing a sub using a 15" Slaps passive radiator with 2.5" of excursion each way and a wicked 1200 watt RMS rated Konaki KO12-1207A 12" sub I have. The sub has a 3.0” voice coil, a 300 ounce magnet and 91db of sensitivity It will have 700 watts of RMS power going to it.
The sub will fire into a folded horn design enclosure with about a 9' horn length, but also have the forward firing Slaps passive radiator. This should help the phase issues and dig real deep. It is accurate at 10hz-25hz. This should keep the sound 180 degrees out of phase and in time with the passive radiators.
The Earthquake Slaps passive radiator I'm using is from a Earthquake SuperNova MKIV-15 subwoofer which is about a $2500-$3000 subwoofer.
My two 12" Cadence Wildbeast subs will go into some end table speaker that are from the 1970's I'm quessing. These I will wire 180 degrees out of phase and be by each SDA-1.
My goal is to have all my bass in phase.
Any input would be great.:)
Here is my system
Yamaha RX-V3000 8.1 reciever
Front Speakers: SDA-1's powered by a Yamaha MX-830 amplifier
Center Speakers: Polk Model 10's in a custom enclosure Onkyo A-8017 integrated amplifier
Front Effects Speakers Polk Model 7 in a custom enclosure powered by an Adcom GFA-535 amplifier.
Rear Polk SDA-CRS's in a custom enclosure powerd by a Yamaha M-70 amplifier in a custom enclosure with the heavy RTA-11 passive radiator which is powered by the reciever.
Rear center channel Polk Model 5's
Beringer EP1500 amp for the subwoofers.
Sony 400 disc CD changer using optical input.
Insignia Blu-Ray Disc Player using optical input.
Panamax MAX-1500 line conditioner.
I also have an unused Yamaha P2250C amplifier not in use and a couple EQ's if they are really needed.
My listening room is a 24'x24' Garage/Mancave with horrible accoustics.
I'm designing a sub using a 15" Slaps passive radiator with 2.5" of excursion each way and a wicked 1200 watt RMS rated Konaki KO12-1207A 12" sub I have. The sub has a 3.0” voice coil, a 300 ounce magnet and 91db of sensitivity It will have 700 watts of RMS power going to it.
The sub will fire into a folded horn design enclosure with about a 9' horn length, but also have the forward firing Slaps passive radiator. This should help the phase issues and dig real deep. It is accurate at 10hz-25hz. This should keep the sound 180 degrees out of phase and in time with the passive radiators.
The Earthquake Slaps passive radiator I'm using is from a Earthquake SuperNova MKIV-15 subwoofer which is about a $2500-$3000 subwoofer.
My two 12" Cadence Wildbeast subs will go into some end table speaker that are from the 1970's I'm quessing. These I will wire 180 degrees out of phase and be by each SDA-1.
My goal is to have all my bass in phase.
Any input would be great.:)
"Make a man a fire and he'll be warm for a day. Light
a man on fire and he'll be warm for the rest of his life."
a man on fire and he'll be warm for the rest of his life."
Post edited by TNTsTunes on
Comments
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I think phase issues will be the least of your worries initially. You WILL have issues with room mode excitation and this will likely cause all sorts of headaches. I'm not saying ignore phase completely, but making certain that the phase relationship is right at the crossover frequency is most important. At least until you have everything working.
It's good to see that you are investing in multiple subwoofers. Many smaller subs will usually be better than one large sub because of the room mode problem. Especially with multiple listeners/viewers in different locations. But in your case, you have many LARGE subs...
Out of curiosity, at what frequency or frequencies were you planning to crossover the mains to the various subs? -
I was going to suggest cloning an LF14 ;-)
http://www.polksda.com/pdfs/LF14Manual.pdf
