DSW MicroPro 4000 Setup Question

Squishy Tia

Yewwo

Y'all might remember me from last year asking about amps and my brand new RTi-A9s. Well, I purchased a DSW MicroPro 4000 to compliment them, and have a question regarding its hookup to my Yamaha HTR-5860 receiver.

My receiver has a sub out, but it's not a dedicated LFE out (except when Dolby Digital/EX is used), thus there is no way to shut off the internal crossover. Would I be better off setting the internal crossover to the desired setting, turning up the sub's crossover to max and using the line in w/ Y-Splitter, or doing the above using the LFE line? I'm not sure if the MP4K's LFE bypasses its own crossover or not.

I'm also wondering if Polk sells or offers thread compatible feet that are longer than what is supplied with the MP4K. This is going to be on carpet, and while not ultra plush, it is medium plush, and I'd like to avoid the jumping and/or bass radiator hitting the floor, as many others have experienced. Longer feet would alleviate that without deteriorating the sound.

Thank you in advance for your advice/help!

- Squishy Tia!

Squishy Tia

Anybody awake this week, or are y'all out on an early Thanksgiving vacation?

(Sure wish I was...)

leroyjr1

The feet on the 4000 are adjustable. Just unscrew them a bit. That'll prevent the PR from hitting the carpet.

Squishy Tia

That (sort of) takes care of the feet thing. Anybody know for sure what I should set the system up as? I've got the 4000 hooked up to my Yamaha's sub out via the LFE, which after some reading I found is unfiltered (controlled by the receiver's crossover).

My next question regarding the L/R and LFE inputs is will the L/R inputs combined (Y-Splitter) offer louder playback volume than the singular LFE input? I really wish I could shut off the receiver's crossover completely. I'm not sure what the db/octave slope is for the sub's crossover, but I'd be willing to bet that it's a fair bit higher than the receiver's.

Edit: Clarification - I can't use the receiver's pre-out L/R to the sub for unfiltered (on the receiver end) as those are in use going to my Adcom GFA555II amp which is powering the wonderfully yummy RTi-A9s.

Squishy Tia

Hrm. I'm having a bit of trouble getting the "punchy" bass I had with the relatively diminutive Yamaha YST-150 sub this replaced (due to aggravating PSU humming on the old sub). The 4K is going low all right, but I'm noticing a dramatic decrease in apparent bass output at C2/C3 (piano notation scale). The other steps on the octave scale seem fine, but C2/C3 lack severely.

My sub's placement is in the rear corner of the room, and oddly enough, the PRO presets don't seem to have much difference (corner, mid-room, mid-wall, or cabinet), nor do the phase settings. Using AUTOPro did at least tone down the boomy quality of the bass, though I'd be more than happy to get advice from the Polkies here on how to best match the sub's SPL to my mains (RTi-A9s) so they're more seamless, as I have a feeling that the sub overpowering the mains is what's killing the C part of the two higher bass octaves.

I have the volume set at 25 right now, using AUTOPro, though I'd prefer more control over the boominess of the bass. I'm wondering if I'm just too used to dual 8" inside the Yamaha being quick (but not as loud) compared to a single 12"er.

Any thoughts you guys have as to the best way to set this puppy up would be greatly appreciated. I know I'm doing something wrong, otherwise I'd have a much fuller experience already.

kawizx9r

The micropro's imo are very musical and extremely quick.

Try pulling the sub out of the corner some, or try another placement....the result of being back there is the "boominess" you're experiencing. Check out my informal review on the MicroPro 1k in the speaker section.

Oh, and in regards to "bypassing" the crossover on your receiver simply set your AVR's crossover at it's highest cut off point. That'll mean the signal sent to your sub will be wider, from 120hz or 160hz (whatever your receiver allows) and below leaving you to tweak your sub utilizing the built in crossover.

-Freddy

Squishy Tia

From what I've read here, I thought that putting the AVR's crossover higher than the sub's built in crossover caused a double dip, muddying the sound quality. I thought I was supposed to put the sub's crossover at max and put the AVR's crossover lower.

As for placement, not much I can do about that - it's a bedroom, and there is NO room next to my mains because of a computer desk and a hallway on one side. The Yamaha didn't have the boom problem, but it also didn't have a passive radiator either. :P

At least this thing goes LOW. I don't care about loud so much as low and fast.

kawizx9r

Squishy Tia wrote: »

From what I've read here, I thought that putting the AVR's crossover higher than the sub's built in crossover caused a double dip, muddying the sound quality. I thought I was supposed to put the sub's crossover at max and put the AVR's crossover lower.

As for placement, not much I can do about that - it's a bedroom, and there is NO room next to my mains because of a computer desk and a hallway on one side. The Yamaha didn't have the boom problem, but it also didn't have a passive radiator either. :P

At least this thing goes LOW. I don't care about loud so much as low and fast.

Some prefer to use their AVR to control the cut off because it's quicker/easier to do, but imo with all the sub's I've owned I've always found it best to tweak it with the sub's built in crossover. My Denon and Pioneer receivers only increased/decreased the cut off in 20hz increments whereas you can narrow it down to within 5-10hz on your sub.

You either use the AVR's settings, or the sub. If you have your AVR at 80hz, your sub isn't going to play anything higher than 80hz even if the subs crossover is set at 81hz or higher.

Same goes for the sub, if you have it at 80hz and your AVR at 81hz or higher....it won't play anything higher than that UNLESS you utilize the subwoofer's LFE input. That in itself will bypass the subwoofers internal crossover.

Placement is the least expensive (free!) tweak you can do, but it takes time to find the right place to put it in. The fact that you've got very few options regarding placement, is really killing you. But hey, you've got one killer sub!

leroyjr1

I have my LFE/subwoofer out of my receiver to the LFE/yellow input of my 4000. My crossover setting in my receiver is crossed at 80hz. So the receiver is controlling the crossover.

If you want to the subs crossover to do the work run the sub out of your receiver to the left or right input ( red or white ) of the 4000 and use the crossover knob to adjust crossover.

kawizx9r

leroyjr1 wrote: »

I have my LFE/subwoofer out of my receiver to the LFE/yellow input of my 4000. My crossover setting in my receiver is crossed at 80hz. So the receiver is controlling the crossover.

If you want to the subs crossover to do the work run the sub out of your receiver to the left or right input ( red or white ) of the 4000 and use the crossover knob to adjust crossover.

+1
I forgot to state that in order to use the subwoofers crossover, you'd need to use the LINE IN L/R inputs...but I guess I implied that when I made reference to bypassing the sub's internal crossover when utilizing the LFE input (which I emphasized with bold letters)

Squishy Tia

Yeah, I know that the LFE is unfiltered (god I play too much WoW...typed in LFG three times before I got the E right) and the L/R is filtered by the sub. My concern is the double dip, which is the AVR's crossover in use, then the AVR filtered signal again being hit by a crossover, and likely one that's stronger at that (most good amps use an 18db/octave crossover slope vs. a 6 or 12db slope on AVRs). That's where my concern lies in the crossover setup.

I would prefer to use the sub's crossover (in which case I'd set the Yamaha's crossover to 200 Hz to avoid the "same Hz" triple dip, which definitely kills sound).

I still wish I could buy longer feet from Polk or something that was thread compatible with this sub. Even lengthened by unscrewing a bit for all feet that radiator does still tap my floor every so often (I can hear the smack).

I'm wondering if my sub's placement (rear, facing the front mains) is causing standing waves, which might explain the loss in bass at a specific range where the RTi-A9s are dominant. I have only one other spot I can move the sub to. I just hope I don't get a hernia doing it...oy.

WTB feet that are a couple inches longer for the sub.

leroyjr1

What are you a9's crossed at?

kawizx9r

LOL

I used to play WoW myself, got a dormant account that's worth a good +$400 or so.

Anyway, I was about to post something in my review regarding the feet. I took the slightly longer feet from my RT towers, pulled off the rubber feet to reveal the spikes and set the sub on the carpet slab. Well.....the damn thing dances WITH the carpet underneath it lol.

As for the bass issue, placement placement placement!

Hope it works out for you!

And if you really need longer feet, check out a hardware store or something for a DIY'er or myesound if they can make something for ya.

Squishy Tia

leroyjr1 wrote: »

What are you a9's crossed at?

They're crossed at whatever their internal crossover(s) are at. If you mean do they utilize the Yamaha's crossover, no. I set the speakers to Large, for um...obvious reasons. :P

I'm running a 2.1 setup right now, and will run a 5.1 setup when I get the cash for the CSiA6 and a pair of FXs.

On my Yamaha sub, which went down to 20 Hz, almost unheard of back then for a <$1000 sub (it was $450 at the time 10 years ago) I had the AVR set to 120 Hz and the sub set to 70ish Hz for my old Yamaha NSA-XT100s, and 60 Hz when I got the A9s.

As for the feet, meh. Hopefully when the designers at Polk create the next iteration of the MicroPro series, they'll take into consideration that these tiny feet really create a paltry clearance for the bass radiator. The BR has nearly as much excursion potential as the front firing driver. I mean, why else would there be so many complaints about dancing subs?

Sidenote: I find it very odd that the sub's internal phase adjustment has zero effect on the sound, yet the AVR's own sub phase adjustment (0/180) does have an impact on the sound.

I'll give it a go with the AVR set to 200 Hz crossover and the sub set to 60 Hz internally via the L/R and see if that helps any. I really wish AVR manufacturers would allow disabling the crossover completely though. It'd sure simplify things a lot. Push comes to shove, I'll reset the sub and use the AVR's autocalibration to try to mesh things together better.

One really good song to tell whether or not I'm overdoing the bass in the boomy dept: Sexual Eruption.

Squishy Tia

I can't believe I'm still awake...oy.

Anyway, this is the post I referred to with regard to the double dip (double filtering) of the crossovers with both the AVR and 4K crossovers being actively used. Oddly enough, I get better results going the opposite way, where the AVR's crossover is set to its highest and the sub is used to control the crossover point manually.

My Yamaha AVR can go from 40-200 Hz in its crossover and the sub can go 40-120 Hz. I used to use the 120 Hz crossover point on the AVR and 60 Hz on the sub (with the old sub) because that was far enough away to avoid the crossover interactions. Now I have the AVR set to 60 Hz and the sub at 120 Hz to avoid the double filtering. I'd just use the LFE input on the sub to do the same thing, but I get dramatically less volume when I do that. Using the LFE input I need a 4K volume setting of 30-35. Using the L/R inputs I only need 25 for my volume setting.

Does anybody at Polk know what the input voltages are for the LFE and L/R Line inputs are? They seem to be acting as if the L/R inputs use a more sensitive 4v or 5v input while the LFE uses something along the lines of a 2v or 2.5v input.

I'm gonna keep trying combinations to see what works best with this beast. It's the best sub I've heard in any price range near it, and I refuse to get rid of it.

On the front of the remote control - all I can say is...ugh. I have to mirror what others have said regarding how close and spot on you need to be to get the remote working. Unfortunately I DO need it, because I use it to turn the sub on/off. I have the sub set to 12v trigger, which allows you to use the remote to turn the sub on/off regardless of whether or not a 12v trigger sense line is attached (convoluted in how it's implemented and unintuitive, but it works). It would have been nice to have the "always on" setting recognize remote on/off input. The poor remote control can be overcome, hopefully, by using a learning remote control to mimic the functions. You'd just need to remember what's what, but most people would only need volume, on/off, mute, and night listening to function.

Heh. I've damn near typed up enough for a full review. Ya know, I may just do that if I get the time later this week after I try using the Yamaha's YPAO to autoset the speaker levels vs. the sub levels. This sub's a royal pain in the arse to set up properly, especially when dealing with its volume controls, which are, to put it mildly, sluggish. However, I know what this thing is capable of - I have heard a properly calibrated MP4K and it's insane how well it does vs. its larger cousins.

leroyjr1

Try setting the a9's to small and see how you like it.

Squishy Tia

Wouldn't setting the A9s to small cut off the lows from the speakers? I thought the point of Large and Small was the frequency range that was sent to the speakers from the AVR.

Squishy Tia

Oh, and a fun tidbit: For walking bass lines, nothing, and I mean nothing beats video game music. Don't believe me? They're specifically designed most of the time to have distinct auditory sections. Looping some of those is the easiest way to get a clean walking bass line (thank you Wild Arms 5 OST!)

Squishy Tia

OK, I think I have the 4K set up close to, if not at where I want it (I'm gonna need to write down all of the settings used so I never have to do this again lol). Hopefully I'll be able to write out a review this week. I really like what this sub is doing for my music.

Anybody know what the frequency range of the supplied mic is? If it's a full range capable mic I'd like to use it instead of the Yamaha supplied mic for my AVR auto setup. It just looks and feels more well built. That and I can clip it to my shirt while I stand aroudn for the setup test tones (no tripod available here).

At least I have no need to dust in here now. The sub shook any dust I had laying around off of the objects in my room. Pissed off the neighbors too when I did the AUTOPro setup...

Edit: I left the speaker setting at Large because the AVR cuts off frequencies below 120 Hz to the mains if they are set to Small, and 120 Hz ironically is exactly where the crossover point sits for the woofer/subwoofer on the RTi-A9s, rendering the bass completely mute.

robert0507

Squishy Tia wrote: »

I can't believe I'm still awake...oy.

Anyway, this is the post I referred to with regard to the double dip (double filtering) of the crossovers with both the AVR and 4K crossovers being actively used. Oddly enough, I get better results going the opposite way, where the AVR's crossover is set to its highest and the sub is used to control the crossover point manually.

My Yamaha AVR can go from 40-200 Hz in its crossover and the sub can go 40-120 Hz. I used to use the 120 Hz crossover point on the AVR and 60 Hz on the sub (with the old sub) because that was far enough away to avoid the crossover interactions. Now I have the AVR set to 60 Hz and the sub at 120 Hz to avoid the double filtering. I'd just use the LFE input on the sub to do the same thing, but I get dramatically less volume when I do that. Using the LFE input I need a 4K volume setting of 30-35. Using the L/R inputs I only need 25 for my volume setting.

Does anybody at Polk know what the input voltages are for the LFE and L/R Line inputs are? They seem to be acting as if the L/R inputs use a more sensitive 4v or 5v input while the LFE uses something along the lines of a 2v or 2.5v input.

I'm gonna keep trying combinations to see what works best with this beast. It's the best sub I've heard in any price range near it, and I refuse to get rid of it.

On the front of the remote control - all I can say is...ugh. I have to mirror what others have said regarding how close and spot on you need to be to get the remote working. Unfortunately I DO need it, because I use it to turn the sub on/off. I have the sub set to 12v trigger, which allows you to use the remote to turn the sub on/off regardless of whether or not a 12v trigger sense line is attached (convoluted in how it's implemented and unintuitive, but it works). It would have been nice to have the "always on" setting recognize remote on/off input. The poor remote control can be overcome, hopefully, by using a learning remote control to mimic the functions. You'd just need to remember what's what, but most people would only need volume, on/off, mute, and night listening to function.

Heh. I've damn near typed up enough for a full review. Ya know, I may just do that if I get the time later this week after I try using the Yamaha's YPAO to autoset the speaker levels vs. the sub levels. This sub's a royal pain in the arse to set up properly, especially when dealing with its volume controls, which are, to put it mildly, sluggish. However, I know what this thing is capable of - I have heard a properly calibrated MP4K and it's insane how well it does vs. its larger cousins.

Hi I just bought the mpk4000 last week and im having the same issue as you when it comes to the way the bass sounds. I have an onkyo 607 and vm30's for the front. I am interested in your end results. I have mine in the corner also with the AVR set to 80hz and the sub set at 80hz. If you get better results with your avr set to max crossover and the sub set to 80 I will do the same and see what happens. I had a mtxsw2 sub before this one and it banged and it was only 100 watts. So im hoping to get better sound out of this 1200 watt one.

rallyshark

Just an FYI...If the yamaha calibration is anywhere as sensitive as audyssey, then clipping it to your shirt is a big NO NO! It WILL screw up your calibration. stack books,pillows, or whatever to get the mic in your listening position, but not yourself:) It doesn't take much to screw up the calibration. Turn off the air/furnace to, and make sure it's dead quiet. I'm surprised no one else has pointed that out. I remember reading a thread about this somewhere around here I think as well. I hope that helps out with the sound:) That's some nice speakers you have there, and you should be able to get the sound you want. It just may take a little more tweaking. Good luck!
Donny

Squishy Tia

Hi I just bought the mpk4000 last week and im having the same issue as you when it comes to the way the bass sounds. I have an onkyo 607 and vm30's for the front. I am interested in your end results. I have mine in the corner also with the AVR set to 80hz and the sub set at 80hz. If you get better results with your avr set to max crossover and the sub set to 80 I will do the same and see what happens. I had a mtxsw2 sub before this one and it banged and it was only 100 watts. So im hoping to get better sound out of this 1200 watt one.

1) You have both of your crossovers set to the same setting. That needs to be your first change, pronto. You're not just double dipping, you're actually triple dipping, as you have both crossovers acting on the signal and each other. Two crossovers that are in phase with each other and set at the exact same passthrough point will kill any bass you get, period.

If your AVR can go in 10 Hz increments, use the LFE input on the sub and only the AVR's crossover. If you find that the AVR's setting blends well with your speakers' lower -3db limit spec (usually 5-15 Hz above the "electrical" overall frequency response) then you could safely use the AVR sub out -> Subwoofer L/R input by setting the AVR's crossover to what you desire and the subwoofer's crossover to its maximum. Just make sure that whichever way you choose that both crossovers are NOT set to the same frequency.

2) 100 watt vs. 1200 watt as a comparison for sound quality is a fallacy. Your previous subwoofer was almost certainly a vented/ported enclosure, which are well known for being very "watt conservative", requiring on average three to four times less power than an equivalant closed/sealed enclosure sub would. While the MP4K is not a "true" sealed enclosure, as its bass radiator essentially acts as a fancy port (force coupled pressure from the main driver moves the bass radiator), it is still sealed as far as physical airflow is concerned, thus the high resistance (and thus power) needed to drive the sub's driver coil. The bass radiator moves when the main driver moves, which does create nearly (but not completely) equivalant airspace inside the cabinet. But since air does not escape the inside, there is still very high internal pressure against the main driver when it fires, and it needs a high powered amplifier to compensate for that just as any true sealed box would.

3) I've been testing the sub at both 80 Hz and 60 Hz. 60 Hz sounds better, but not quite "there". I have a feeling that because my sub faces against my speakers instead of facing the same direction as my mains, that I'm getting some standing waves, which is basically the bass from my subwoofer cancelling the identical frequencies emitted by my A9s. This is mitigated moderately well by the sub being put into 180° phase mode. 0° sounds the worst, and 90°/270° sound unnaturally boomy or tinny respectively.

I wish I had better placement options for the sub. I have one other place I can put it other than the corner, but I then risk the very very VERY nicely finished cabinet getting dinged by my nightstand drawer, which would face the sub's side panel, and only have a clearance of about 8 inches to open with before the metal handle hits. Now, considering my Yamaha YST-150 sub (dual 8" drivers, down to 20 Hz, ported) in the same corner had zero bass cancellation problems, I'm probably doing something wrong with regard to the crossover settings. Running 60 Hz is far above my A9s -3db limit spec, which is 30 Hz. I may try running at 40 Hz crossover and see if that improves the bass imaging from the A9s.

Side question for the Polk CS Reps: The A9s' overall frequency response is listed as a very low 18 Hz for the bass end. Does the speaker actually hit that low when properly powered? This is being asked since the lower I can put the MP4K's crossover, the more accurately the sub can produce the bass it is fed.

I'm hoping my family will actually be able to figure out what an SPL meter is, or at least know to ask the Radio Shack "sell-a-phone-or-die" idiot(s) what it is so that I get one for Christmas. It will help immensely in fine tuning speaker levels and settings. I'd love a good spectrum analyzer (realtime), but I can't quite justify $10k for one that actually handles both standard and multiphase waveforms.

For my "walking bass line" to test for blending the sub with the mains, I use Fariedone (Battle). I don't use the web's version though - I own the soundtrack and have EAC rips of all six CDs (!) (yes, a single game has SIX CDs worth of tracks). The bass line from this particular track actually hits very close to the sub's rated lower frequency response limit. It's great for telling me whether or not I'm overpowering my mains or just doing what I want - reinforcing them.

So in a nutshell, I'm not where I want to be just yet with this sub. But I've heard it properly calibrated (yes, there ARE at least one or two Fry's folks that know audio well enough to calibrate these beasts) and when set up right, the MP4K is absolutely astounding, not for its (lack of) ability to win SPL contests, but for its ability to reproduce the bass in a tight, punchy manner that sounds well controlled.

Oh, and is it just me, or do the test tones on this sub sound a lot like the old point counter tones from the Captain Power fightercraft toys from 20 years ago? They literally follow the exact same tone steps. o_O

robert0507

Ok i did what you said and I must admit it sounds better. I think im going to have to move it around though to get the best sound. I was wondering if getting better subwoofer cables will make it sound better . I got a regular pair of RCA cable from radio shack. I can get some SVS subwoofer cables for like 27$ . Do you think its worth it?

Squishy Tia

robert0507 wrote: »

Ok i did what you said and I must admit it sounds better. I think im going to have to move it around though to get the best sound. I was wondering if getting better subwoofer cables will make it sound better . I got a regular pair of RCA cable from radio shack. I can get some SVS subwoofer cables for like 27$ . Do you think its worth it?

If your subwoofer cables are shielded decently (most are) and aren't up against any power cords, you're fine. You'll be hard pressed to find any hard evidence that supports uber expensive cables outperforming lower cost ones, as long as the connect points are soldered well and the shielding is in place.

About the only thing that makes a noticeable difference is how well the connector hugs the jack on your sub. If it's loose, you could take a pair of plyers and squeeze the outer ring (IF the ring is a multi-piece ring and not a solid ring). Make sure to have a paper towel or something over the ring to prevent dinging the hell out of it though. Loose connections can be very bad on a sub (rattling like mad).

robert0507

Squishy

Do you feel the micro pro 4000 is a good sub. I am considering getting an svs sub or more to the point the pc12-nsd. I mean I like he sub but My mtx sw2 to me sounded great and it was only 140$. I dont know maybe I will sell this one and spring for a velodyne dd-12 I saw one on ebay for a good price..

I will give the mpk4 some more time. I havent used the setup mic yet so thats my next step. How is yours sounding so far? I saw in your previous post that you almost got it to where you want it but not there yet. Keep me posted on your resluts I will check here often and update you will my results as well.:cool::D

robert0507

ok I used the setup mic for the sub and ran my AVR setup after. Now this is what a sub is supposed to sound like!!!!!!!!. I was getting scared there for a moment that I made a bad investment. This sub rocks. Im cant wait to watch some movies . For anyone wanting to test there sub use robin thicke's song " I wanna love you girl" great running base lines.

Squishy Tia

I'm glad you got the sub sounding great.

As for me, I'm still working on the fine tuning, though I've actually hit a slight snag. I've run into that dreaded rattling issue others have had. It didn't happen until I put the volume up fairly high (on the AVR) to see what the sub sounded like with both it and the speakers with raised volume. We're not talking earthshaking volume here, but louder than normal loud (enough to give you a headache if you're in the same room for more than a minute or two).

Anybody at Polk know if something could have come loose with the driver hitting very hard? It wasn't bottoming out, but was very close to it by the sound of things (I was using Sexual Eruption as a test song as it hits...HARD). I know the rattle isn't the bass radiator hitting the floor - I tilted the sub off the ground on one side and the rattle was still there. The sub's volume is at 25. Much higher than that and it either overpowers the mains and/or doesn't sound natural.

The sub doesn't rattle if it's played only moderately, but when it hits hard, even at lower volumes now, it's rattling. I'm really hoping this isn't a design flaw in the sub, as there are others that have reported the exact same thing happen to theirs.

Squishy Tia

I may just do that. The rattling I'm hearing sounds like the basket itself is rattling inside the sub. It occurs when the driver has to make rapid start/stop motions, almost like the driver coil is having trouble keeping up. At least the sub is now calibrated where I want it. Took nineteen different (yes, 19) attempts to use the AUTOPro, as each calibration came out very different and I finally found one that sounds good across the board with the crossover at 60 Hz at the sub and the AVR set to 200 Hz for its crossover cutoff (this puts the slope differentials far enough apart to eliminate 95% of the crossover interactions).

What I wouldn't give for a way to have a User1 and User2 type setting that is saved to NVRAM/Flash RAM. That'd let me calibrate for movies and music separately and switch between them when I want to listen to one or the other.

Once I work out why there is rattle with this thing (even when tilted off the ground slightly to verify it is indeed in the sub itself) I'll be able to write up a review. This thing does compliment my A9s very well. Scared the living hell out of my grandpa when I did the calibrations though. He was in the shower and thought there was an earthquake.

Oops.

robert0507

Squishy

Can you point me to the thread about the sub rattling at high volumes. Im not having any such issues but I would like to read about it just in case this happens to me. But other than that im really loving this sub. It makes my vm30's come to life.:D

Squishy Tia

robert0507 wrote: »

Squishy

Can you point me to the thread about the sub rattling at high volumes. Im not having any such issues but I would like to read about it just in case this happens to me. But other than that im really loving this sub. It makes my vm30's come to life.:D

http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=90944&highlight=rattling+micropro

http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=78245&highlight=rattling+micropro

http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=77805&highlight=rattling+micropro

These pertain to the Micropro series in general, though the 4000 is also mentioned. I'll tighten my speaker connector caps and see if that eliminates the rattling. I'm honestly surprised there's any rattle at all, even at some of the louder peaks considering how literally dead this sub's cabinet is.

Squishy Tia

I'll have to test on Monday when nobody else is home. Low volume no rattle that I can detect unless I put my ear up to the sub. Med to high volume I'm gonna need to test. I've tightened the speaker connectors' twising caps, but those were already tight.

I didn't hear the rattle at all until after I did a high volume test using Sexual Eruption as the song played. The repetitive heavy bass hits may have knocked something loss inside? I'd hope not but who knows. We'll see on Monday.