Myrtle Wood

NJPOLKER

Do any of you guys/gals use or have knowledge of the wooden blocks used to isolate components?

http://www.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/cls.pl?accstwek&1261932778&/Eaglesound-Myrtlewood-Isoblock

sTiLlLeArNiNg

NJPOLKER wrote: »

Do any of you guys/gals use or have knowledge of the wooden blocks used to isolate components?

I went looking for this wood at the local home depot/rona and they don't carry it, said i'd have to go to a lumber yard. I read that it work's extremely well for this aplication

ben62670

Maple is good too.

LessisNevermore

Can someone enlighten me here?......

I understand the benefits of vibration isolation, but don't understand how a RESONANT hardwood is capable of canceling vibration. I can see it not transferring vibrations at given frequencies that the wood isn't sympathetic to, but that's narrow at best.

NJPOLKER

Sure google myrtle wood The myrtle wood seems to dampen vibration well. I have seen it in small blocks used for feet under components and slabs I believe for under TT's. It can also look real nice too.
Thats the best I can do on the subject.

concealer404

sTiLlLeArNiNg wrote: »

I went looking for this wood at the local home depot/rona and they don't carry it, said i'd have to go to a lumber yard. I read that it work's extremely well for this aplication

Huh? Lost me there.

John30_30

I gots plenty of 8/4 maple in 2 x 2 lengths. If I cut those in 1" tall blocks, that will be as good as anything that yoyo can offer cause it's sitting on the grain.

Don't believe me about shortgrain non-resonance, ask a woodworker.

You want some for the shipping, shoot me a PM.

LessisNevermore

John30_30 wrote: »

I gots plenty of 8/4 maple in 2 x 2 lengths. If I cut those in 1" tall blocks, that will be as good as anything that yoyo can offer cause it's sitting on the grain.

Don't believe me about shortgrain non-resonance, ask a woodworker.

You want some for the shipping, shoot me a PM.

So they are setting the gear on the end-grain. That doesn't eliminate the resonance, but it greatly lowers the frequency that it resonates at. I've made drums out of the same wood, same batch, one with vertical grain, the other horizontal.

The horizontal grain shell rings at a much higher pitch, than the vertical, but ring, they do. In fact, I depend on it, and drummers have payed me well for it.

But this isn't a pissing contest, I'm interested in the physics of why this is to be preferred to a dense, non-resonant material.

zingo

If you go to any place that sells cooking supplies, you can sometimes find solid hardwood cutting boards, maple or otherwise, that have large rubber feet. Or you could always DIY some similar combination.

John30_30

LessisNevermore wrote: »

So they are setting the gear on the end-grain. That doesn't eliminate the resonance, but it greatly lowers the frequency that it resonates at. I've made drums out of the same wood, same batch, one with vertical grain, the other horizontal.

The horizontal grain shell rings at a much higher pitch, than the vertical, but ring, they do. In fact, I depend on it, and drummers have payed me well for it.

But this isn't a pissing contest, I'm interested in the physics of why this is to be preferred to a dense, non-resonant material.

I'm with you. I'd like to know the science behind it if the myrtle guy is saying his lumber is resonant yet cancels resonance.
Now I'm curious what parts of your drums you make from endgrain?

LessisNevermore

John30_30 wrote: »

I'm with you. I'd like to know the science behind it if the myrtle guy is saying his lumber is resonant yet cancels resonance.
Now I'm curious what parts of your drums you make from endgrain?

Stave shells. The drumheads rest on the endgrain, the grain runs vertical. It makes getting perfect bearing edges(the actual place that contacts the skin) tricky, because it likes to tear out. The solution is climb-cutting a very small amount for the finish pass.

sTiLlLeArNiNg

zingo wrote:

If you go to any place that sells cooking supplies, you can sometimes find solid hardwood cutting boards, maple or otherwise, that have large rubber feet. Or you could always DIY some similar combination.

I have heard of people getting butcher block's from like sam's club @ $25 - $35 a pop and having good success

concealer404 wrote: »

Huh? Lost me there.

It doesn't take much....

concealer404

sTiLlLeArNiNg wrote: »

I have heard of people getting butcher block's from like sam's club @ $25 - $35 a pop and having good success



It doesn't take much....

Oh. You're right. By the way, all the advice i gave you when you joined was completely incorrect. Please adjust as necessary.

John30_30

LessisNevermore wrote: »

Stave shells. The drumheads rest on the endgrain, the grain runs vertical. It makes getting perfect bearing edges(the actual place that contacts the skin) tricky, because it likes to tear out. The solution is climb-cutting a very small amount for the finish pass.

Well, I kinda figured. That seems like the only sensible way to build them. Although the drumhead rests on endgrain, the staves are relying on long grain.

So although I agree there is some vibrational transference down through endgrain, surely your drums main resonance is from the long grain, no?

bikerboy

Cardas uses that type of wood IIRC. I have made several blocks and find it can help to use the right shape and type of wood. YMMV

sTiLlLeArNiNg

concealer404 wrote: »

Oh. You're right. By the way, all the advice i gave you when you joined was completely incorrect. Please adjust as necessary.

ROTFLMFAO

All the advice you gave me I never read anything usefull come off your fingertip's that was directed at me. You must have me confused with someone else because all you fire my way is immature insult's....

Have another beer

lol

george daniel

FWIW, I had a cabinet shop make me a maple turntable platform upon which to sit my tt.It does a pretty good job of "dampening" , it sounds much more solid and less reasonant when"tapped" now.Can I hear a difference?,, bass seems tighter,and the overall operation of the tt seems much quieter with speakers and headphones.YMMV.

concealer404

sTiLlLeArNiNg wrote: »

ROTFLMFAO

All the advice you gave me I never read anything usefull come off your fingertip's that was directed at me. You must have me confused with someone else because all you fire my way is immature insult's....

Have another beer

lol

I was at work and completely coherent.

Go back and read your first threads on these forums. I spent time helping you, hell, even defending you to the rest of the people on this forum that you hate oh so much.

sTiLlLeArNiNg

concealer404 wrote: »

I was at work and completely coherent.

Go back and read your first threads on these forums. I spent time helping you, hell, even defending you to the rest of the people on this forum that you hate oh so much.

First: I am not a "small" person that "hate's" anybody, i am not like 99% of the people Just because i disagree with someone and they in turn insult me because i present a valid point of view that differ's from their's does not mean i "hate" them. I got better thing's in life to do :cool: lol

Second: You care to show me where exactly you provided me with all of this help and support? lol

http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/search.php?searchid=14008053

Must be some crazy good second hand smoke in your neck of the wood's then? lol

If in fact you did help me in anyway Thank You but i highly doubt you have ever offered any positive comment's to me....

Toolfan66

I think it is time we all stop drinking this guys koolaid and just ignore him. Really it's just not worth the time to respond to his dumbass comments.

Let him play alone inside his Emotiva box.