Need Opinions on Banana Plug Designs
mufsoman
Posts: 632
Of the two banana plug designs shown below, does one have an advantage over the other? The second design seems like it would have more surface contact, so long as the plug diameter is the same as the hole on speaker posts vs. potentially just points of contact with the flared design.
What's everyone's opinion? Which is better? Is this brand, "Nakamichi" good quality? Thanks
What's everyone's opinion? Which is better? Is this brand, "Nakamichi" good quality? Thanks
Parasound HCA-2003A & 2205A
Front: Rti12's
Center: Csi A6
Side surrounds: Polk Rti A1's
Atmos: Mirage Nanosats
APC H15
Power cords by Pepster, Morrow MA4 IC's, AQ Midnight, AQ Chocolate HDMI's[/SIZE]
The rest is TBD.
Front: Rti12's
Center: Csi A6
Side surrounds: Polk Rti A1's
Atmos: Mirage Nanosats
APC H15
Power cords by Pepster, Morrow MA4 IC's, AQ Midnight, AQ Chocolate HDMI's[/SIZE]
The rest is TBD.
Post edited by mufsoman on
Comments
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I have the ones on the left and they work fine and are well made.
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Bet ya a grand you'll never hear a difference.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
If I had to choose between the two,I'd pick the one on the left.I'd probanally cut myself with the one on the right.JC approves....he told me so. (F-1 nut)
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I prefer these...Expensive though. Screw terminate,solder or both.SDA-2BTL with custom IC
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Revelation Audio Labs Prophecy Cryo-Silver i2s digital cable
4 Furutech FP-314Ag with FI-11cu Plugs/FI-11AG IECs--- Power Cords
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Bet ya a grand you'll never hear a difference.
Was it not you that told me to stay away from the monoprice nanner's?
I used a style similar to the one's on the right on my recent cable build and they seem to be excellent thus far
I preffer a solder type connection vs crimp/screw....
Just my $0.02 of courseMedia Room 7.1
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I am sure he did and the reason is probably the construction not the sound quality.
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I am happy with these no problems and work well. The reason I went with plugs over just wire is because I like to swap out speakers a lot. Just a tip, I use di-electric grease before I install the plus onto the wires and also before sliding them into the connectors.
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Rocketfish%26%23153%3B+-+Speaker+Cable+Gold-Plated+Banana+Plugs/8315496.p?id=1174092319345&skuId=8315496&st=bananna%20plugs&cp=1&lp=3HT setup
Panasonic 50" TH-50PZ80U
Denon DBP-1610
Monster HTS 1650
Carver A400X :cool:
MIT Exp 3 Speaker Wire
Kef 104/2
URC MX-780 Remote
Sonos Play 1
Living Room
63 inch Samsung PN63C800YF
Polk Surroundbar 3000
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I like the BFA plugs because I think they hold better.
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I bought the one on the right a few month ago. I think the right plug has more grip then ohter. I know it because i replace the one on the left with the right one. It has more surface and it has more pressure to expand one you plug into terminal hole.Sony 60" XBR2
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Infinity P-FR with 12" build in sub
Infinity P-CC
4 Infinity P QPS
Kef sub 4000
pure av PF60
3 cobalt speaker cables -
Speaking of naners, mine JUST came in right now. Tried them inside my maggies real quick and they take a bit more pressure than the blue jeans naner plugs. Think I'll use these instead, hope whatever you got worked out for ya!
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I am sure he did and the reason is probably the construction not the sound quality.
Actually i was mistaken, it was Face NOT F1 who advised me to stay away from the monoprice nanner's claiming they "degraded' the sound. Here's the thread, check post #5 http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=87449 He never gave me a reason why, just made the comment....Speaking of naners, mine JUST came in right now. Tried them inside my maggies real quick and they take a bit more pressure than the blue jeans naner plugs. Think I'll use these instead, hope whatever you got worked out for ya!
Nice nanner's I hope those apply more pressure! After all they are the locking type no? How heavy are they and do they come with insert's to take up the gap at the cable entry point?Media Room 7.1
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A fool and his money are easily parted
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No inserts, just doubled the length of the strand....folded over and soldered.
I didn't realize how much it tightens inside the binding post until I actually used it, if you tighten it hand-tight you can't pull it out without trying!
Posted this same pic on another spade/naner thread but here you go, I replaced the bluejeans naners with these.
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Sexxxy!
You ended up soldering those on!?!?! Must have been a biotch to do since they are thick! Can i ask what type of iron/gun and solder you used? What you got hiding under the cable pant's to make 'em that large? Is there a ferrite core in there for distortion blocking?
If i had a lot of traffic at my place i would've used those nanner's just to be on the safe side as they are guaranteed to hold! But usually it's just my pop's and i so no worries....Media Room 7.1
Sharp lc37d64u | Sanus vmsab-03 | Sonax ZX8680 | Yamaha htr-6290b | Emotiva xpa1 x 2 & xpa5 | RTiA 9 & 7 | CSiA 6 | FXiA 6 | Sanus NF30B-03 | Velodyne dls-3750r | Dual 505-3 m97xe | Monster avs2000/hts5100
HTPC
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A fool and his money are easily parted
I don't drink Koolaid
Need some cable's? Just ask -
sTiLlLeArNiNg wrote: »Sexxxy!
You ended up soldering those on!?!?! Must have been a biotch to do since they are thick! Can i ask what type of iron/gun and solder you used? What you got hiding under the cable pant's to make 'em that large? Is there a ferrite core in there for distortion blocking?
If i had a lot of traffic at my place i would've used those nanner's just to be on the safe side as they are guaranteed to hold! But usually it's just my pop's and i so no worries....
Yea, it was a b$tch! lol
I used a weller soldering iron (pencil tip), with Monster XP speaker wire (yes I know EWW) covered in Techflex and extra heatshrink I had around. Cardas silver solder used for the termination.
I was going to use my extra MIT cable for jumpers but I'll do that another day when I've got some extra heatshrink and time and solder. I don't get much traffic, for me it's just an OCD thingTruck setup
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:eek: DUDE! How the heck you managed that with a pencil iron is beyond me! Do you at least have a set of helping hand's to make thing's easier? My hand's would be killing and i would be cursing lol It must have taken you a while? I have a big weller pistol for the large stuff but i recently picked up the small adjustable pencil iron from partsexpress to do a few cable project's
Good choice on the silver solder! I have read that it promote's better signal transfer as opposed to standard 60/40 solder, i went the cheap route and grabbed a 1/2lb spool of the Dayton silver solder (also from partsexpress)
I find it's better also because of the lower melting temp, make's thing's quicker & easier
Only problem i see with Monster cable is the price
It turned out really well manMedia Room 7.1
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A fool and his money are easily parted
I don't drink Koolaid
Need some cable's? Just ask -
sTiLlLeArNiNg wrote: »:eek: DUDE! How the heck you managed that with a pencil iron is beyond me! Do you at least have a set of helping hand's to make thing's easier? My hand's would be killing and i would be cursing lol It must have taken you a while? I have a big weller pistol for the large stuff but i recently picked up the small adjustable pencil iron from partsexpress to do a few cable project's
Good choice on the silver solder! I have read that it promote's better signal transfer as opposed to standard 60/40 solder, i went the cheap route and grabbed a 1/2lb spool of the Dayton silver solder (also from partsexpress)
I find it's better also because of the lower melting temp, make's thing's quicker & easier
Only problem i see with Monster cable is the price
It turned out really well man
Lots of patience lol
I love the Cardas stuff, wouldn't bother with anything else. I heard that Dayton silver solder actually melts at a higher temperature....probably compared to the cardas hmm.
The Monster cable is in pretty new condition, and only used it cause I had some laying around. There are still some boxes in the closet I haven't touched since moving out here
Thanks for that though, I think they look really cool and they serve their purpose well. Would like to get into making my own cables, but the MITS would do much better than I could. Maybe a pair of DIY-IC's?Truck setup
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Sad that a great company like Nakamichi has been reduced to a logo on the side of a banana plug... They do look like great connectors though.The Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, Mcintosh C2300 Arcam AVR20, Oppo UDP-203 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk Audio Legend L800 with height modules, L400 Center Channel Polk audio AB800 "in-wall" surrounds. Marantz MM7025 stereo amp. Simaudio Moon 680d DSD
“When once a Republic is corrupted, there is no possibility of remedying any of the growing evils but by removing the corruption and restoring its lost principles; every other correction is either useless or a new evil.”— Thomas Jefferson -
I heard that Dayton silver solder actually melts at a higher temperature....probably compared to the cardas hmm.
Maybe a pair of DIY-IC's?
Yes the comparisson is between the two, the Dayton melt's at something like 215 and the Cardas melt's at like 185. Since i'm not soldering on a board or any type of critical component the diff in melting point is not worth the extra cash As long as the silver content is the same % and the flux is the good stuff i'm good to go!
I'm finishing up some shielded power cable's right now actually and next on the list is re-wire tonearm + TT, then on to IC's I like to try and do my own thingMedia Room 7.1
Sharp lc37d64u | Sanus vmsab-03 | Sonax ZX8680 | Yamaha htr-6290b | Emotiva xpa1 x 2 & xpa5 | RTiA 9 & 7 | CSiA 6 | FXiA 6 | Sanus NF30B-03 | Velodyne dls-3750r | Dual 505-3 m97xe | Monster avs2000/hts5100
HTPC
Intel e5300 | Asus p5q DLX | LG ch08 BD | OCZ 4g reaper2 | WD 1TB | Sapphire 4890 VaporX 1g | Asus Xonar HDAV 1.3 | OCZ modXtreme 700w | Antec Fusion remote MAX
A fool and his money are easily parted
I don't drink Koolaid
Need some cable's? Just ask -
I bought the one on the right a few month ago. I think the right plug has more grip then ohter. I know it because i replace the one on the left with the right one. It has more surface and it has more pressure to expand one you plug into terminal hole.
Did you hear a difference?Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Did you hear a difference?
I'll answer that one Jesse.
Didn't hear a difference with either BJC spades, BJC naners, or the nakamichi's.Truck setup
Alpine 9856
Phoenix Gold RSD65CS
For Sale
Polk SR6500
Polk SR5250
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Didn't hear a difference with either BJC spades, BJC naners, or the nakamichi's.
....Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Nice work Freddy. I just love the look of Techflex when doing a wiring project.
Back to the orginal question. I'd rather have the pair on the right since I tend to change things around from time to time. I have a set of PS Audio Extreme cables that use a nanner like that on the left. I've called PS Audio twice now replacing the ends. They are a screw-on style of nanner that you can swap out on the cable ends from nanner to spade. They simply lose the grip after a few times of swapping in and out. I have an old set of AQ cables that use the style on the right and they have NEVER been loose.Testing
Testing
Testing -
Nice work Freddy. I just love the look of Techflex when doing a wiring project.
Back to the orginal question. I'd rather have the pair on the right since I tend to change things around from time to time. I have a set of PS Audio Extreme cables that use a nanner like that on the left. I've called PS Audio twice now replacing the ends. They are a screw-on style of nanner that you can swap out on the cable ends from nanner to spade. They simply lose the grip after a few times of swapping in and out. I have an old set of AQ cables that use the style on the right and they have NEVER been loose.
Thanks!
I'll try out a pair of plugs like the ones on the right some other time, otherwise I really like the locking type
Mufsoman, what'd you end up getting?Truck setup
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Thanks!
I'll try out a pair of plugs like the ones on the right some other time, otherwise I really like the locking type
Mufsoman, what'd you end up getting?
I can see where your's are locking. I couldn't see that in the OP's pics. Locking would surely get my vote.Testing
Testing
Testing -
I can see where your's are locking. I couldn't see that in the OP's pics. Locking would surely get my vote.
These are the first locking plugs I've ever had, never read into it until I got them. Now I don't know why I never owned a pair before
And I just noticed that the OP is in the karma for those naners/spades I'm offering up. Guess he hasn't bought a pair yet, or maybe he did but those ebay stores take a good 2 weeks to get your stuff out to you (comes from Hong Kong).Truck setup
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I prefer these...Expensive though. Screw terminate,solder or both.
Ouch, I just looked them up as I'm gonna upgrade the nanner's on both sets of my AQ's. The total came to $272.00! :eek: Another $70.00 if I wanted to do the cable to the sub as well.~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~ -
Damn,how many do you need?Cryo parts sells them for 32.00 a pair but I saw someone else selling them for 28.00 a pair.
I hear you though,too much.I almost forked over 120.00 for 8 on them till I found these.http://www.av-outlet.com/index.html?target=dept_149.html&lang=en-us
The xhadow plugs sure are pretty though.They have RCA and XLR plugs that are just as pretty and just as expensive.TOO MUCH.
I see parts connection has em for 24.95 a pair.Still too much IMOSDA-2BTL with custom IC
Adcom 565 monoblocks--Monarchy Audio M-10 preamp
Theta Data Basic Transport--Stello DA100 Signature DAC--Camelot Dragon Pro2 MK III
Harman Kardon T-55c TT
DH Labs Q-10 Signature Speaker Cables With Furez silver plated copper bananas
Revelation Audio Labs Prophecy Cryo-Silver Reference AES/EBU
Revelation Audio Labs Prophecy Cryo-Silver i2s digital cable
4 Furutech FP-314Ag with FI-11cu Plugs/FI-11AG IECs--- Power Cords
DH LABS REVELATIONS ICs-amps
Revelation Audio Labs Paradise cryo-silver ICs-Source to pre -
I need 16 for the two main speakers as I have them bi-amped. If I decide to ever run the sub, that will require an additional 4.
I contacted AQ about getting new nanner's put on my cables because the chincy one's they put on keep breaking. They want my cables for 3-4 business days plus the added time to ship them both ways which means that my rig will be down once again. :mad:
They said that they'd do it for free and give me a new nanner for all 16 on both cables, but the downtime is completely unacceptable to me. They will not just ship me the nanner's and let me fix them myself, so I'm in the market for a solid nanner. I can get a set of 4 for $25.00 through one of their dealers all day long but......I'd like to take this opportunity to upgrade.~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~ -
The ones I posted a link to above are the ones Im going to use to terminate the neotech NES-3003 speaker cable Im ordering from soniccraft.(silver plated ones).I wont go for that plated brass or bronze garbage again.SDA-2BTL with custom IC
Adcom 565 monoblocks--Monarchy Audio M-10 preamp
Theta Data Basic Transport--Stello DA100 Signature DAC--Camelot Dragon Pro2 MK III
Harman Kardon T-55c TT
DH Labs Q-10 Signature Speaker Cables With Furez silver plated copper bananas
Revelation Audio Labs Prophecy Cryo-Silver Reference AES/EBU
Revelation Audio Labs Prophecy Cryo-Silver i2s digital cable
4 Furutech FP-314Ag with FI-11cu Plugs/FI-11AG IECs--- Power Cords
DH LABS REVELATIONS ICs-amps
Revelation Audio Labs Paradise cryo-silver ICs-Source to pre -
sTiLlLeArNiNg wrote: »Actually i was mistaken, it was Face NOT F1 who advised me to stay away from the monoprice nanner's claiming they "degraded' the sound. Here's the thread, check post #5The ones I posted a link to above are the ones Im going to use to terminate the neotech NES-3003 speaker cable Im ordering from soniccraft.(silver plated ones).I wont go for that plated brass or bronze garbage again."He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche