How to Setup PSW505 - filtered or unfiltered

josh.berger

Just got the PSW505 and I need help setting it up. That's right, I know nothing!

I can use either the LFE or the R/L plug.
As I understand it, if I use the LFE, all of the settings for the subwoofer are controlled by my receiver (Sony STRDG820 7.1). If I use the R/L plugs, I control the subwoofer with the controls on the back of the subwoofer.

First, am I correct?

Second, should I use the LFE or the R/L plugs?

Third, If I use the receiver to control the PSW505, what should the settings on the receiver be for the PSW505.

Finally, is the auto calibration worth using or just better to do all settings manually.
Thank you.

quadzilla

If your AVR has a sub out, I prefer to do bass management at the AVR, so I use the LFE in. I've found it's much easier to get the sub to blend into the rest of the system with that method than any other.

I start by letting the automatic stuff have a go, and it gets a lot of things pretty right. But then I do tweak a bit to make it suit me. In particular, the AVR never seems to get all the levels quite right, so I use an SPL meter and do that manually. But phase control and other things on my AVR seem spot on. So really, it's going to come down to what sounds best to you. There is no absolute right or wrong.

bem928

why is my sub blowing fuses . i have the PSW505, only had it since 11/2/2009

Squishy Tia

bem928 wrote: »

why is my sub blowing fuses . i have the PSW505, only had it since 11/2/2009

The first thing I'd check, if the sub has it, is the voltage switch. If you're in the US or any other country that uses 120v, it must be set to 120v or you'll essentially instantly blow the fuse, and very likely permanently damage the sub's power supply and/or amplifier. If you live where 220v is used, the switch must be in the 220v position.

Whichever region you live in (120v or 220v usage), if you bought your sub outside of that region (e.g. you live in the U.S. but bought the sub from a UK dealer), you may have a sub that is made for a voltage you cannot use. If this is the case, you should contact Polk and/or the vendor you bought the sub from for exchange options.

It is also possible that you have the subwoofer hooked up to a line that already has a very large power draw in use on it (refrigerator/microwave on the same line, etc.). Have you tried another power outlet (after making sure your new fuse is good)? If so, does it keep blowing the fuse?

Generally speaking, blown fuses are caused by three things:

1) Incorrect voltage input. This is discussed above. Will almost certainly fry your sub and/or damage the power distribution line in your home.

2) Power spikes. Surge suppressors and/or surge suppressors with a line conditioner are essential to protect your gear. Never EVER place the subwoofer on the same power strip/outlet as the receiver if you can avoid it. Both amplifiers running concurrently can cause an overload and blow a fuse in any of the connected components.

3) Excessive volume, caused by the user and/or too high an input voltage (i.e., you turned your receiver up too loud and now it's blowing the sub too). The higher the volume, the more RMS power draw you have, and the more (vastly more) spike power draw you get when the sub must replenish its capacitors after a heavy bass hit. Excessive volume can also cause the subwoofer to clip and enter its protection mode. Assuming you have the correct voltage input (120v/220v), continual fuse blowing could be a sign of clipping causing the amplifier to overexert itself, thus entering protection mode, but not before the fuse has already sacrificed itself to save the sub.

As a general rule of thumb, always start low and move upward in volume on a sub, not the other way around. It helps you balance audio levels and avoids unnecessary pitfalls such as those mentioned above.

Oh, and one more thing: Do not ever connect a subwoofer to another audio/video component's switched power receptacle. This cannot be overstressed - it WILL blow your receiver to smithereens, and almost certainly cause your sub's amplifier to clip/distort, thus blowing its fuse(s).

I know this is a lot to take in, but going step by step as a process of elimination will greatly narrow down the cause of your subwoofer's fuse problem. If none of the above is the cause of the problem, you may have a defective amplifier/power supply. It happens. Call Polk to verify your setup and region voltage (they can look up serial numbers to check what region the batch your sub came from was meant for).